RMI Expeditions Blog
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
Last night's snow shower turned into the "heavy fall of snow" that we've been promised on a daily basis by our forecasts these last ten days. It snowed, it snowed and then it snowed some more here at 14,200 ft. We estimated that it was coming down at a rate of 3 inches per hour. Zeb got out at three to rally a shovel brigade in retaking the camp from the tent-bending powder deluge. We could hear great avalanches roaring repeatedly down the steep and icy flanks of the West Buttress. It didn't ease until around nine in the morning, by which point we figured about 24 inches had fallen overnight. Needless to say, today was not a climbing day for us. The wind was still pulling huge streamers of snow off the route we'd hoped to trace along the crest of the Buttress. And the slopes leading to the ridge were now all suspect in terms of snow stability. So much snow falling so quickly doesn't give the stuff a chance to settle. One of the ways it settles on a mountainside is to avalanche. There was plenty of visual evidence (when the clouds parted for a minute here and there) that a number of avalanches had already occurred on the route to the fixed ropes, but there were also still vast stretches of undisturbed deep new snow. We needed a hot and sunny day to glue things in place and to make it all safe again. But you can't always get what you need. Our day was mostly cloudy with light snow showers. Zebulon gave a great lesson in basic snow science, demonstrating how to identify weak layers in the snow pack, how to compare the hardness of those layers, and in how to conduct a "compression test" on an isolated column of snow in a study pit. Our climbers then dug their own pits and made their own observations as a way of understanding our challenge in these next few days. We need to figure out the level of hazard that exists on the slopes above us without exposing ourselves to that very hazard. And we don't have much time to do it in. We only have a couple more days of food available. Our greater cache of food is now the one sitting above the suspect slopes... In perfect position for our summit bid, but out of our reach until we determine that the avalanche hazard has diminished. Lots to figure out on Denali. We aren't alone though. The other teams, mostly at 17 camp have similar dilemmas What we all need, first and foremost, is a break from continued bad weather. As is normal, we need a little good luck. Despite the challenges, the team is still in good spirits. Today, we went over the blog comments together. We can't surf the web with our setup, but the RMI office was kind enough to cut and paste the comments into an email for us. Thanks, from the entire team, for keeping us in your thoughts.
Best Regards
Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Hello RMI family! It is Team Texas from Russia. Today we flew to St. Petersburg and we are enjoying this amazing city! We are celebrating our safe and successful trip on Elbrus. And believe me, everyone deserves to rest, relax and enjoy the good life that only sea level altitude provides!
Stay tuned for tomorrow's video dispatch of St. Pete's!!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
The team checked in from the Baksan Valley today. They are taking a well-deserved rest day after their successful summit climb of Mt. Elbrus yesterday. We hope they enjoy their time in Cheget shopping and site-seeing.
They will spend their final night in Cheget this evening. Tomorrow they will transfer to Mineralnye Vody and take a flight to St. Petersburg, the final stop on their tour of Russia and one of the highlights of the trip.
On The Map
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Tuesday, July 9, 2013
Not too much to report on our scheduled rest day at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley. It was calm and sunny, despite the persistent storm forecasts, but it did seem to be getting progressively more cloudy as the day went on and it started snowing at a good clip while we ate dinner in our cozy POSH tent. The team did an excellent job of taking it easy today. We caught up on hydration and sleep, rested sore muscles and dried out boots and socks. We pared down the personal gadgetry and entertainment systems for the hard move up to 17,200' and tried to figure out any clothing or gear that would not be useful up above.
The number of teams around or above us has been steadily diminishing and as is normal for this point in July, the National Park Service climbing rangers have been packing up their seasonal station at 14 and getting loads ready for helicoptering. It has been fun visiting with the other teams, but it is also quite enjoyable to have the mountain in its natural state -quiet and uncrowded.
If it doesn't snow too much tonight and we get a decent shot tomorrow, we'll move to high camp.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Scott’s family - We have closely been following your climb. Praying all of you have a wonderful, successful, and safe climb and summit.
Posted by: Michelle Adaska on 7/11/2013 at 7:07 am
Tell macca (Sean) that we miss him, especially Archie. Go hard haradinko!
Posted by: Gem and Luke on 7/11/2013 at 5:05 am
The team had a leisurely start to the day with breakfast at 8 as everyone is still getting their internal clocks set. After getting packed up last night and checking out of the hotel today we made our way over to the big gondola. We rode two gondolas and one small chairlift up the mountain to our new home here at 12,000', where there are several huts including one for dining. The Garabashi Hut is also call the "barrels" because of the round shape of the huts. They are a little worn, but warm and dry nonetheless.
It was a pretty easy transition for the team and once everyone was settled we headed out the door on another acclimatization hike. We hiked for about 2 hours which took us up to about 13,500'. We then descended back to camp and had a great lunch of Bortch, a variety of fruits, salami, and cheese.
Everyone is doing great and are enjoying the beautiful weather and amazing views of the Caucasus mountain range.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
The team is making great progress. You’ll be at the top before you know it!! Praying for continued safe travels. From James’Madre
Posted by: Dolores Graham on 7/10/2013 at 4:24 pm
you all look great! ask Chris to point out where I would have stopped, Im sure u will all make it to the top. its great to be able to read these updates!
Posted by: Ryan Wolf on 7/10/2013 at 2:16 pm
We've been enjoying the natural hot spring pools in Papallacta, even if it is a bit rainy. Yesterday we took an acclimatization hike up to around 14,500', but only stayed out for about an hour and a half, as rain, snow, and wind drove us back to Papallacta. We've been sleeping at 11,000' in Papallacta, so we're definitely acclimating to the high altitude.
Today we're off to base camp on Antisana, where we'll set up tents and establish camp for two nights prior to our summit bid. We're all looking forward to getting deeper into the mountains...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
So incredibly proud of the entire team, and our guys, John and Ryan! Your commitment to this expedition is so inspiring. Stay safe!
Love
Mom and Alessia
Posted by: Alessia Satterfield on 7/12/2013 at 11:30 am
so sad for you guys. darn winds that just wouldn’t ease up enough to let you make this summit. Glad you all are fine and made it back down safely. squeezes!
Posted by: Paula Hall on 7/12/2013 at 7:54 am
The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Jason Thompson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning shortly after 5:30 a.m. They reported clear skies and warm temperatures with winds around 20 mph.
As of 7:00 am the teams were descending from High Break (13,300'). They will continue to Camp Muir and make a short break there before continuing to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Jason, Lance, and Andy, you guys were great!
Thank you!
Posted by: Shawn B. on 7/19/2013 at 9:59 am
Sandy, You are a beast! Congrats!
Posted by: Jackie & Dan on 7/11/2013 at 1:36 pm
It was a beautiful day in Cheget today and we made the most of it. We started the day with a nice breakfast of porridge, eggs and fresh juice, then headed out to stretch our legs a bit. Being that this is a ski town in the winter, we took advantage of the chairlifts and rode them up to about 10,000ft to start our hike. The team hiked for a little over an hour to reach a sub-summit of Cheget Peak. The team did great on our first acclimatization hike and spent about 20 minutes on top to enjoy the view (our first of Mt. Elbrus). Again the team did great descending down the mountain side all the way back to town where we stopped in at a local cafe for lunch. Shortly after lunch we headed over to the gear shop for a few last minute items and have settled in back in our cosy hotel.
Things look good on the mountain and we're even heard that climbing conditions are great too. Two of RMI's great guides Mark Tucker and Jeff Justman aka JJ are also in town after two successful climbs. It was a pleasure to see them and hear about their climbs too.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Yeehaw! We did it!
The team took full advantage of perfect weather and great route conditions on Mt. Elbrus today. We could not help but stand on top this morning.
We returned to the Garabashi Hut, our home for the last few nights, packed our gear and continued our descent. We are back down in the Baksan valley at the base of Mt. Elbrus. Let the celebration begin!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Hi Dr.Raj, following your journey. Enjoy your expedition. Take care. Liz
Posted by: Liz on 7/9/2013 at 8:02 pm
Hi, Mama Z here. So exciting to ride and hike the mountain with you. I am exhausted. Good luck with tomorrow and the bathroom situation. I heard about that. Can’t wait for the next set of pictures. Love Mama Z. Tell Jennifer I love her
Posted by: patricia Blitz on 7/9/2013 at 2:57 pm
Posted by: Win Whittaker, Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Jake Beren reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported clear skies, light winds and pleasant temperatures. They began their descent from the crater rim after 7 a.m. PT. The teams will return to Camp Muir (10,060') for a short break and then continue down to Paradise (5,400') this afternoon.
RMI Guide Kel Rossiter and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons team called from Camp Schurman. They reported good conditions and great weather. The team made their summit attempt today and reached 13,500' but decided to call that their high point and return to camp. The team will spend tonight on the mountain with some additional time for training. They will break camp tomorrow morning, descend to the trail head and return to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford in the late afternoon.
Congratulations to today's climbing teams!
Thanks Jake and team again for an amazing trip! You guys are awesome and will be missed!
Posted by: Tricia on 7/11/2013 at 12:59 pm
nice pic! brrrrrr!
Posted by: michelle on 7/12/2013 at 3:10 pm
Happy Birthday Mike! Here with Abby at the bakery wanting to make you a cake! Stay safe…enjoy the summit cuz ya know its up there!
Wendy
Posted by: Wendy on 7/12/2013 at 8:03 am
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