RMI Expeditions Blog

Mt. Rainier: June 6, 2013 Summit!

June 6, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Pete Van Deventer, Zeb Blais, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by JJ Justman and Pete Van Deventer reached the top of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team reported excellent climbing conditions with clear skies and no wind. The team spent time on Columbia Crest celebrating and snapping photos. They have started their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Lance! I hope you and your team had an amazing climb! What’s next on your bucket list?

Posted by: Pali on 6/8/2013 at 9:15 am

Way to go Lance, congrats to you and everyone on the team.
Jackie

Posted by: Jackie on 6/7/2013 at 6:26 am

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Recap Summit Day

June 6, 2013

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Wednesday, June 5, 2013 Leah awoke just before me and the first words out of her mouth when she went outside were: It's beautiful out. The sky is blue, there's no wind. I think it's the nicest day yet. And so the wheels were set in motion: firing up the reluctant stoves from their below zero degree slumber to get breakfast and hots going for the team, then waking everybody up to let them know that we were going for it again. Even with yesterday's aborted attempt that certainly burned a bit of energy, the crew was excited and ready. This time, we didn't have to break trail up to Denali Pass. At first we were nervous about the colder temps, but these concerns proved unfounded as the sun shone brightly and warmed things up. As we ascended, things just got better and better, and our climbers responded well. In fact, they climbed flawlessly today. To say that I am particularly proud of everybody would be an understatement. No slips or oops or loss of focus that seem just an inevitable thing when a large group of folks climb for twelve hours. We reached the summit at about 4:00, the first team to summit today. After the hero pictures and summit hugs, we made our way back to camp well before the sun slid over the ridge. Enjoying another dinner together was the finishing touch to a great day. We even got some singing out of one of our favorites, tired of body though he might have been, his spirit was obviously on a high. Now our thoughts go to the descent from this lofty camp. A couple of hard days and, with a little more luck, we might be seeing our loved ones soon. But for now, the cold of night is chasing me into my bed of down. Goodnight from RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah, 17,200' on Denali.

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Jo congrats again my friend , well done . What do you think , Harriman Sunday ?

Mike

Posted by: mike weber on 6/7/2013 at 3:08 pm

Great news…congratulations all! Monica is a stud-ess!!! Make the descent epic with your snowboards (tobaggans). Yeehaw!

Posted by: Aaron Knox on 6/7/2013 at 8:04 am

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Mt. McKinley: June 4th Team Beren - Ready in Talkeenta

June 6, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Josh Maggard, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

Wednesday, June 5, 2013 Hello, This is the RMI Mt. McKinley June 4th Expedition. The whole team is here in Talkeetna, Alaska, packed and ready to rock. Today we packed up, checked our gear and sat in on a National Park Service orientation to preview a bit of the upcoming adventure. The team is excited and ready to launch. So far the flying weather hasn't let many folks land these days, but it appears to be stabilizing just in time for us to storm the SE fork of the Kahiltna. With any luck we'll fly out tomorrow morning, so we better get some rest tonight. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Have fun & be safe - big props from Seattle!

Posted by: Stacey Guerrero on 6/8/2013 at 8:49 pm

Zurich wishes all the best and good luck for the whole team.

Posted by: Tom&Jerry;$ on 6/6/2013 at 12:06 pm

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Team Okita on the Summit!

June 5, 2013

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,320'

Wednesday, June 5, 2013 Hi, this is Brent calling from the RMI Okita McKinley Expedition and we're calling you from the summit of Mt. McKinley. Right now it's 5 o'clock in the afternoon on a beautiful day here, minimal winds and a few high clouds around. It is just gorgeous! The team did a super job getting up here today. We are taking photos right now and getting ready to head out and get back to camp. I will try and give another call when we are back to camp. I just wanted to let you know everyone is doing super well at 20,320. Congratulations to the team! I am a bit emotional. It has been a great day. Bye.

RMI Guide Brent Okita calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley, 20,320 ft.

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You are amazing Gerald!!!! You are one in a million, always have been and always will be!!! We miss you tons! Please come and visit with family ASAP! The Hamptons in the summer isn’t the same without you! Love you Gerald!
Love,
Kimmy

Posted by: KImmy on 6/24/2013 at 8:35 am

Simply phenomenal!
Congratulations
-th

Posted by: Tom H on 6/8/2013 at 1:53 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Rest and Relax at 11,000’

June 5, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Yesterday's carry to 14,000' left many members of the team knackered, so today is a very relaxing rest day in our well-appointed camp at 11,000'. A leisurely morning was the main agenda, with coffee, bagels, cream cheese and smoked salmon on the breakfast menu. A pan of hash browns and cheese is on deck for the afternoon snack. The posh house, our group meeting location, kitchen, and dining room is in heavy use today, with its many panel seams radiating out from the center pole like the legs of an octopus. Under its protective canopy we've been solving the various problems of the world and making sure we stay hydrated. Team members drift in and out, while conversation and laughter drifts across camp. Fortunately the light snow we have had the past couple of days is tapering off, and the sun is working to dry out our moist sleeping bags and tents. We are conserving our energy for tomorrow's move to 14K camp, which will put us over the halfway mark and in good position for the higher reaches of the mountain. Climbing a mountain like Denali is a long process, and taking time to get to know one another is a big part of that. Today's rest is allowing the team to strengthen our group dynamic, and get to know each other more intimately. What started as a group of strangers more than a week ago is quickly morphing into a solid team of friends, ready to tackle the rest of the "Great One." But we'll leave the hard work for tomorrow, and enjoy the down time today. Stay tuned for more! Dan, Robin, Jess, James, Lori, Justin, Tyler and Garrett

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So glad to hear the weather has improved and the sky is being kind to you guys!Hope the spirits stay high and every one stays safe. Love you Robin.
Lisa

Posted by: Lisa on 6/7/2013 at 9:10 pm

Thinking of you, Lori. Thankful for these e-mails, I look forward to them each day. Met Wendy by chance at Culvers, special. Keep having good weather, and good luck to you all. Mom

Posted by: Fern Hansen on 6/7/2013 at 7:22 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Camp Muir Update

June 5, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Pete Van Deventer, Zeb Blais, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,200'

The RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Team led by JJ Justman and Pete Van Deventer are spending the week on Mt. Rainier doing some Denali Prep Training. The team is doing well and having a great time learning some advanced mountaineering techniques. The team plans to make an attempt at the summit early tomorrow. Best of Luck Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck on your summit climb. Love you Daddy

Posted by: Z Team on 6/6/2013 at 9:01 pm

Expedition Skills Seminar Team, you are looking good! Best wishes for a summit tomorrow!

Posted by: Joyce Dowell on 6/5/2013 at 5:59 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Dress Rehearsal for Team Okita

June 4, 2013

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

Tuesday, June 4, 2013 We were excited this morning as we awoke to a windless day which followed an equally windless night, a far cry from our first night here. With the sun just lightly obscured by some high clouds things looked reasonable for a summit bid. It was even relatively warm at camp, though our team mate from the South might well disagree with that assessment. We knew today was by no means a sure thing, and went into it with our eyes wide open. And, as you might have guessed by now, we did not tag the summit today. But we did get to Denali Pass, 18,400', which was a huge accomplishment! Unfortunately, the weather up over the summit was not particularly inviting, and we had a light but annoyingly cold wind at the Pass where we are obliged to take a break after over two hours of climbing. So, we spun it. But we all got so much out of it. The route had quite a bit of snow on it so it was good to kick in the trail. Also, just doing that first part of the route will help everyone the next time we go up it. And, that could well be tomorrow. Some people suggest that tomorrow might be the nicest day of the period. We're definitely ready for a return to beautiful blue skies, even though the weather forecast reads: more of the same, that is low pressure bringing with it snow and clouds. The team is ready to go back up tomorrow. And so am I! RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Gerald and to the entire team! Hope you enjoyed the view from the sumitt. Safe travels down!

miss ya!

P.S. Aliki passed the being “faithful” test we talked about while you were gone ;)

Posted by: john azua on 6/6/2013 at 5:18 am

Gerald, well it is tomorrow night here (June 5) and the suspense is just too much! Whatever the outcome of the day just know everyone back home is wishing you and your team all the best. You HAVE gone in the direction of your dreams and you most definitely are living the life you imagined!! So, so, proud. Stay safe, stay focused and climb strong. Love and miss you. Aliki, Riley & Charlotte

Posted by: Aliki on 6/5/2013 at 6:14 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Carry to 14,000’

June 4, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Tuesday, June 4, 2013 Today we woke to a calm, warm and partly cloudy morning at our 11,000' camp! A 7am wake up had us working our triceps downing a cup of coffee and a bowl of oatmeal. Then the hard work with the legs began for our 3,000' climb. Starting with the grind of Motorcycle hill where the ridge provides amazing views of the Washburn wall and Father and Sons wall. Both walls are enormous, sporting 8,000' of vertical relief. With strong efforts by all the team we continued up through Squirrel Hill, across the Polo Fields with the magnificent end of the direct West Buttress looming above. Our ascent around the infamous Windy Corner was just a cool light breeze, a welcome reward. The crew arrived to the 14,000' camp in good shape and we dropped our supplies for the coming days. It was the longest and most work of our trip putting in 7 hours on our feet. The descent was smooth with new blown powder covering the trail, making for soft crampon walking back to the rest and relaxation of the tents for a while before we move in to the disco circus tent we call our living room and kitchen for a very well earned quesadilla extravaganza. We plan to take a day of rest tomorrow and count on our recovery at this lower altitude with continued acclimatization to be hugely beneficial to our success up higher on the mountain. That's all - got to go now, catch you all on our rest day tomorrow! RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens

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Great job everybody!!! A special hello to Lori. :) You are all an inspiration. I hope you stay warm and safe! Good luck!!! Love and hugs,
Maggie and Casey
Lori-P.S. Keep God in your heart.

Posted by: Casey Hansen on 6/6/2013 at 8:43 am

Robin and Team

Congratulations on your trek to 14k. Sounds like you guys had a difficult day but some amazing views! Hope you get some well deserved rest today. Take care and good luck tomorrow. Looking forward to updates. Praying for your safety and success. Stay warm.
Robin - P.S. got your Father’s Day Cards :)

Love, DAD

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/5/2013 at 11:00 am

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RMI Guide JJ Justman Notches his 200th Summit of Mt. Rainier!

June 4, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Guide News Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide JJ Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on Wednesday, June 4th, 2013, marking his 200th summit of the mountain. JJ has been a mountain guide for eighteen years, leading climbers on climbs and expeditions around the world, from Mt. Rainier to Alaska to the Andes to the Himalaya, including Mt. Everest. "People often ask me how I can climb Rainier day in and day out year after year, if it ever gets old? And my answer is always the same. No," said Justman. "I climb Rainier to share the experience with first time climbers. I see the emotion on people's faces as they come down from the mountain as they say, "I can't believe I did that"! And now with 200 summits I have seen and heard that a lot from hundreds of people. And it never gets old. I look forward to sharing the unforgettable experience with many others as I climb towards 300!" Below is a compilation of photos from JJ's climbs over the years. We wish JJ a big congratulations and many more safe climbs to come! - The RMI Team Collection of JJ's Rainier Photos over the years

Collection of JJ's Rainier Photos over the years

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YAY JJ! That’s awesome! I was on your rope with you when you completed your 175th in 2011, it was such a great time that I am coming to do it again next week. You’re a kickass guide! -Andy R

Posted by: Andy on 6/5/2013 at 3:55 pm

Wow JJ ... 200 summits. What an accomplishment! Congratulations!!! Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/5/2013 at 10:20 am

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Rest at 17,200’

June 4, 2013

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Monday, June 3, 2013 Our first encounter with snow and wind came after we hit the sack last night. Comfortably tucked away in our well anchored tents, and snug in our mounds of down that encapsulate us each night, we knew we weren't in any danger, and by Denali standards our visit with foul weather was fairly mild. But the winds still kept many of us up more than we would have liked. So, when I checked the weather at 7:30 and didn't like what I saw, I don't think there was a one of us that missed hearing my wake up call for a summit bid. An hour later the winds calmed and things did look better, but not perfect, so I let the team sleep in. At breakfast we all confided that we were happy that the day did not turn out good for the summit. Even some of our studs of the trip admitted to feeling the altitude and having some fatigue left over from yesterday's efforts. Our morning was spent building up walls to protect us from the annoying wind, then by lunch we were back in the tents enjoying the incredible warmth that the suns rays produce at this elevation. Even though outside it was chilly, inside our watch thermometer got as high as 113 degrees. OK, it was measured at the ceiling and we had all the doors closed, but though a little excessive, the heat felt wonderful soaking through our bodies. Right now the weather looks good. The ominous cloud cap that had settled on the mountain for most of the day has disappeared and I am more optimistic than I have been. The forecast remains the same, for whatever that's worth. I think we're all thinking that it might just happen tomorrow, but who knows. All I really know is that we're all ready if the day dawns fair. Which means that I too should probably get some sleep. Goodnight from 17,200' camp. RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah

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Hey Virg, Did you see my time capsule when you were on the summit? Isn’t it the most indescribable, unique feeling to reach the top?!! Your feelings run amuck as you slowly comprehend “oh my god, I made it!!” It was your dream, your goal for so long and now it’s a memory to cherish forever! Remember seeing my photos of us eating lunch on the summit! Best lunch ever!! On to Aconcagua!! Why not! I’m very happy for you and relieved for your mom and dad! Big HIGH FIVE buddy! Linda

Posted by: Linda Foss on 6/6/2013 at 8:19 am

Hi Monica—
All the news is very exciting and we send everyone our warmest wishes.
A poem by Rene Daumal:
You cannot stay on the summit forever,
you have to comedown again.
So why bother in the first place?
Just this; what is above knows what is below,
but what is below does not know what is above.
One climbs, one sees. One descends,
one sees no longer but has seen.
There is an art of conducting oneself
in the lower regions
by memory of what one saw higher up.
When one can no longer see, one can
at least still know.

Much love and good weather,
M&D

Posted by: Marianne and john on 6/4/2013 at 7:56 pm

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RMI Expeditions Blog

Mt. Rainier: June 6, 2013 Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Recap Summit Day

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: June 4th Team Beren - Ready in Talkeenta

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Team Okita on the Summit!

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Rest and Relax at 11,000’

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Camp Muir Update

Mt. McKinley: Dress Rehearsal for Team Okita

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Carry to 14,000’

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RMI Guide JJ Justman Notches his 200th Summit of Mt. Rainier!

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Rest at 17,200’

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