Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Leah awoke just before me and the first words out of her mouth when she went outside were: It's beautiful out. The sky is blue, there's no wind. I think it's the nicest day yet. And so the wheels were set in motion: firing up the reluctant stoves from their below zero degree slumber to get breakfast and hots going for the team, then waking everybody up to let them know that we were going for it again.
Even with yesterday's aborted attempt that certainly burned a bit of energy, the crew was excited and ready. This time, we didn't have to break trail up to Denali Pass. At first we were nervous about the colder temps, but these concerns proved unfounded as the sun shone brightly and warmed things up. As we ascended, things just got better and better, and our climbers responded well. In fact, they climbed flawlessly today. To say that I am particularly proud of everybody would be an understatement. No slips or oops or loss of focus that seem just an inevitable thing when a large group of folks climb for twelve hours. We reached the summit at about 4:00, the first team to summit today. After the hero pictures and summit hugs, we made our way back to camp well before the sun slid over the ridge.
Enjoying another dinner together was the finishing touch to a great day. We even got some singing out of one of our favorites, tired of body though he might have been, his spirit was obviously on a high. Now our thoughts go to the descent from this lofty camp. A couple of hard days and, with a little more luck, we might be seeing our loved ones soon. But for now, the cold of night is chasing me into my bed of down.
Goodnight from RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah, 17,200' on Denali.
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Hi, this is Brent calling from the RMI Okita McKinley Expedition and we're calling you from the summit of Mt. McKinley. Right now it's 5 o'clock in the afternoon on a beautiful day here, minimal winds and a few high clouds around. It is just gorgeous! The team did a super job getting up here today. We are taking photos right now and getting ready to head out and get back to camp. I will try and give another call when we are back to camp. I just wanted to let you know everyone is doing super well at 20,320. Congratulations to the team! I am a bit emotional. It has been a great day. Bye.
RMI Guide Brent Okita calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley, 20,320 ft.
You are amazing Gerald!!!! You are one in a million, always have been and always will be!!! We miss you tons! Please come and visit with family ASAP! The Hamptons in the summer isn’t the same without you! Love you Gerald!
Love,
Kimmy
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
We were excited this morning as we awoke to a windless day which followed an equally windless night, a far cry from our first night here. With the sun just lightly obscured by some high clouds things looked reasonable for a summit bid. It was even relatively warm at camp, though our team mate from the South might well disagree with that assessment.
We knew today was by no means a sure thing, and went into it with our eyes wide open. And, as you might have guessed by now, we did not tag the summit today. But we did get to Denali Pass, 18,400', which was a huge accomplishment! Unfortunately, the weather up over the summit was not particularly inviting, and we had a light but annoyingly cold wind at the Pass where we are obliged to take a break after over two hours of climbing.
So, we spun it. But we all got so much out of it. The route had quite a bit of snow on it so it was good to kick in the trail. Also, just doing that first part of the route will help everyone the next time we go up it. And, that could well be tomorrow.
Some people suggest that tomorrow might be the nicest day of the period. We're definitely ready for a return to beautiful blue skies, even though the weather forecast reads: more of the same, that is low pressure bringing with it snow and clouds.
The team is ready to go back up tomorrow.
And so am I!
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Congratulations Gerald and to the entire team! Hope you enjoyed the view from the sumitt. Safe travels down!
miss ya!
P.S. Aliki passed the being “faithful” test we talked about while you were gone ;)
Posted by: john azua on 6/6/2013 at 5:18 am
Gerald, well it is tomorrow night here (June 5) and the suspense is just too much! Whatever the outcome of the day just know everyone back home is wishing you and your team all the best. You HAVE gone in the direction of your dreams and you most definitely are living the life you imagined!! So, so, proud. Stay safe, stay focused and climb strong. Love and miss you. Aliki, Riley & Charlotte
Monday, June 3, 2013
Our first encounter with snow and wind came after we hit the sack last night. Comfortably tucked away in our well anchored tents, and snug in our mounds of down that encapsulate us each night, we knew we weren't in any danger, and by Denali standards our visit with foul weather was fairly mild. But the winds still kept many of us up more than we would have liked.
So, when I checked the weather at 7:30 and didn't like what I saw, I don't think there was a one of us that missed hearing my wake up call for a summit bid. An hour later the winds calmed and things did look better, but not perfect, so I let the team sleep in.
At breakfast we all confided that we were happy that the day did not turn out good for the summit. Even some of our studs of the trip admitted to feeling the altitude and having some fatigue left over from yesterday's efforts.
Our morning was spent building up walls to protect us from the annoying wind, then by lunch we were back in the tents enjoying the incredible warmth that the suns rays produce at this elevation. Even though outside it was chilly, inside our watch thermometer got as high as 113 degrees. OK, it was measured at the ceiling and we had all the doors closed, but though a little excessive, the heat felt wonderful soaking through our bodies.
Right now the weather looks good. The ominous cloud cap that had settled on the mountain for most of the day has disappeared and I am more optimistic than I have been. The forecast remains the same, for whatever that's worth.
I think we're all thinking that it might just happen tomorrow, but who knows. All I really know is that we're all ready if the day dawns fair. Which means that I too should probably get some sleep.
Goodnight from 17,200' camp.
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Hey Virg, Did you see my time capsule when you were on the summit? Isn’t it the most indescribable, unique feeling to reach the top?!! Your feelings run amuck as you slowly comprehend “oh my god, I made it!!” It was your dream, your goal for so long and now it’s a memory to cherish forever! Remember seeing my photos of us eating lunch on the summit! Best lunch ever!! On to Aconcagua!! Why not! I’m very happy for you and relieved for your mom and dad! Big HIGH FIVE buddy! Linda
Posted by: Linda Foss on 6/6/2013 at 8:19 am
Hi Monica—
All the news is very exciting and we send everyone our warmest wishes.
A poem by Rene Daumal:
You cannot stay on the summit forever,
you have to comedown again.
So why bother in the first place?
Just this; what is above knows what is below,
but what is below does not know what is above.
One climbs, one sees. One descends,
one sees no longer but has seen.
There is an art of conducting oneself
in the lower regions
by memory of what one saw higher up.
When one can no longer see, one can
at least still know.
Much love and good weather,
M&D
Posted by: Marianne and john on 6/4/2013 at 7:56 pm
Sunday, June 2, 2013
The weather has finally changed. No more perfectly sunny , windless days. Instead, this morning we saw some clouds both below us and above. But they were fairly light clouds and the winds remained calm. A change none the less. After sixteen days of perfect weather these clouds might seem ominous, but in reality the weather was fairly nice. So, we picked up and moved up to high camp at 17,200'.
Gambling on the weather is one of those things that is just a part of mountain climbing. Do you stay or do you go? Given the relatively benign weather forecast I opted to take advantage of a nice day to move up.
An early start allowed us to reach camp by 3:00 where we were able to have our pick of walled tent spaces. We were even able to dig in the Posh House. After a little while some snow started falling and we figured we'd just have a simple dinner and allow the team to eat in the comfort of their tents. After all, we had had a big day with heavier packs that our previous climb and folks could feel the effort. But, not this team. It's impressive that when offered room service at 17,000' everyone of the team chose to get together for dinner.
No, today there was no singing, but everyone was in good spirits and hoping to get a good nights sleep. Our plan is to check out the weather in the morning and go for it if things are good. Otherwise, we'll have a good rest day.
It's great to be in position for a summit bid finally. All we need now is one good day.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Stay strong! You are almost there! Well, actually you are already doing and seeing places and things that most of us only dream of, so please appreciate how far you have come as well!
We love you, Dennis!
Shelly, Jon and Tasha
Posted by: Shelly Uhlir on 6/5/2013 at 8:50 pm
Jeff H and friends—Hoping today is the day! Here’s to a fabulous summit.
Saturday, June 1, 2013
Just knowing that today we had absolutely nothing to get accomplished gave us all that sense of ease and happiness often felt on the first day of a great vacation. Breakfast (yes, smoked salmon, bacon, fried bagels and cream cheese) didn't even start until the sun had warmed up camp, and lingered almost to lunch.
We relaxed outside in the sun and inside away from its strong rays. Some got horizontal and read or napped, while others of us hung out in the Posh talking about everything from music and movies to food, wine and other delicacies.
Those of us with FM radios gave a brief news summary, and like many discussions of any depth, eventually the tide of our conversation turned to politics. But with such a nice group of folks who are fast becoming good friends, the talk was of a healthy sort and not the ugly type seen all too often elsewhere.
I don't know if it was the Indian cuisine we had for dinner or what, but dessert was accompanied by song, poetry, comedy and a lot of good natured ribbing. The day has ended all to quickly, we all agree.
We ended our day by listening to the evening weather forecast, which has been calling for an end to the incredible high pressure we have been enjoying and calling for clouds and some snow, but all with fairly light winds. I've certainly heard of worse forecasts, so we'll just wake up in the morning and see what we see. If the skies are anything like they have been, we'll break camp and retrace our tracks back up the fixed lines and West Buttress, having the added confidence that comes with having climbed it once before. But we'll need good weather to tackle that climb again. Otherwise, another day or two here will only make us stronger for the summit later.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Monica, Im in sunny fla, dad and i are following your adventure and know you and the team are doing great!all our thoughts are positive and confident in your skill And strength. We toast you with a glass of wine out on the dock each night! Cheers!
Posted by: meredith on 6/3/2013 at 4:51 pm
Monica and team, I’m betting by the time you get this message you will be in high camp ready for your summit day. Be strong..it is such an amazing view from the top of North America…soak it all in and then get down safely… Good luck team…
Thursday, May 30, 2013
Awakening the crew just before 9:00 a.m. to enjoy a breakfast of blueberry pancakes in our posh house as the sun warmed up camp was a real treat. We knew the noon hour was upon us and a few clouds began to gather around camp. We booted up to walk to the Edge of the World, a place from which you can look 7,000' down to the NE fork of the Kahiltna. From here we were treated to dramatic views of a vertical world, in fact, you could even see our very first camp of the trip, a place we past through, which seems so long ago, but in fact was only eight days ago. Some swirling clouds added the drama of being there.
The rest of the day was spent rebuilding our latrine with blocks cut from the snow to protect us from the weather. And later, we welcomed our other RMI team down from 17,200' camp after their summit day yesterday.
Tomorrow we'll be carrying a load to above 16,200', perhaps as far as 17,200' camp. It'll be a big day for us but we'll do fine. Of course, the first time up the fixed ropes is always a bit of a challenge, but this rest day has been good for us, mentally and physically to get ready for it.
We'll let you know how it goes. Until then, we'll just end with another birthday greeting: Nic, Happy Birthday from Dennis and the team.
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Today we awoke to another beautiful day at 14,000 camp on Denali. Feeling better about the altitude we cruised down to our cache and back in no time. A cloud rolled in and brought light snow this afternoon which has surprisingly been a welcome change to the hot temps and our sunburned lips from these past few days. We were able to do a little practice with fixed lines in preparation for the real deal in a couple days. Everyone did great, even with monster lobster gloves on! Tonight, Gerald treated us to duck burritos, with duck that came all the way from New Jersey, also a welcome change then to "chicken", resembling tuna from a bag. A shout out to Emma Rose, happy birthday!
RMI Guides Leah, Logan, and Brent
Update: 5/29/13
For the last 20 minutes, the shadow of the upper mountain has been creeping across 14,000ft camp. While its never dark here, the temperature drops significantly when the sun slides out of sight. We are now warm and safe in our sleeping bags, and ready to rest after a long day in the sun.
This morning we awoke at 11,000 ft to a crisp clear morning. After only three days at 11k, the place felt like home. All our team members sat in their preferred (and now regular) locations in our dinning shelter. And after an oatmeal breakfast everyone returned to their respective tents on well worn paths.
We then disassembled camp. What had been a home, dissolved into a series of tools and pieces of fabric. After an hour, we were ready to leave. Snow walls proudly protected our empty camp as we headed to 14,000 ft.
The route was familiar - we took the same route to cash gear yesterday. The team climbed even stronger today. Moral was high and the views were spectacular. As we neared 14,000ft, the sun was directly overhead. While Denali can be a harsh wintery environment, it can also feel like a solar oven. The glaciers act like mirrors and there is no shade. We left camp bundled up and arrived dropping with sweat.
We made our way to an old campsite at 14k and refurbished it. We leveled existing tent platforms, dug out a cook shelter and made ourselves at home. From our new home, we have a clear view of the upper mountain. All afternoon we watched climbers and skiers high above us.
We are all excited to get up high. But we also know that there is work to be done. We must train, collect our gear from 13,500 and bring more gear up high. For now, sleep is a priority. We've earned it.
RMI Guides Logan, Leah and Brent
Hey Jo (Gerald) awesome following the trip sounds like going well and weather treating you right stay strong bro. See you soon
Mike
Posted by: Mike weber on 6/2/2013 at 4:55 pm
Hey Betzalel and Ayla,
Gavi and I just wanted to tell you that we are so proud of you guys, and amazed by your adventurousness (if that’s even a word). We are def stalking your blog and can’t wait to see you summit! Also, we heard you guys got the go-pro - so sorry we didn’t get around to getting it for you, but don’t worry we’ll get you an even better wedding present! Anyway, hope you are doing well, missing you tons!!!!!
Monday, May 27, 2013
At 6:00 am few climbers are stirring, preferring to crawl out of their tents when the sun is a little closer to chasing the cold shadows of the night away. But we had a big day ahead of us, and knew we would be comfortable having breakfast and hot drinks in our Posh tent.
A skiff of snow barely covered the tents and the gear we left outside, and a few more clouds lingered around for a short while after we lit the stoves, but the sun was also out and we knew it was going to be good enough to make our carry up to 13,500'.
The crew was super quick getting ready this morning, eager, and certainly a little anxious about the climbing to come. After all, it was to be the steepest terrain we've been on. And as I suspected, everyone climbed well. A very slight breeze kept us comfortable until the last fifteen minutes when the wind stopped and things got hot. We got to our cache site at 2:00, a very respectable time by any measure. Everyone was tired but smiling and happy. The descent was just as smooth, allowing us to enjoy a few hours of well deserved R&R before dinner.
Our plan for tomorrow is to move up to 14,200' camp if we're all feeling good in the morning. Otherwise we'll take a rest day. If we do move up, we'll definitely be taking a couple of rest days there, which are key to our acclimatization to the elevation of camp.
After dinner we read all your posts! Thanks so much for the kind words and well wishes. It was another bright spot to an already good day.
Until tomorrow!
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Hey Derek,
Mate we are all following the climb here at DAL3, steamy Darwin,Australia. All those shuttle runs paying off now!! Good luck , be safe mate.
Posted by: Gareth on 5/28/2013 at 10:53 pm
Jeff (dad)
We love reading about your day. Keep it up!
Love Kenny, Alex and Sophia
P.S. I got a hit today dad - Alex :)
Posted by: Veronica Hooper on 5/28/2013 at 10:11 pm
.JPG)
.jpg)
.JPG)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Hey Jo congrats again my friend , well done . What do you think , Harriman Sunday ?
Mike
Posted by: mike weber on 6/7/2013 at 3:08 pm
Great news…congratulations all! Monica is a stud-ess!!! Make the descent epic with your snowboards (tobaggans). Yeehaw!
Posted by: Aaron Knox on 6/7/2013 at 8:04 am
View All Comments