Entries from Mt. McKinley
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Saturday, June 8, 2013
Bonjour, from the fryer at 14 camp. The essence of climbing the great big mountains is that in the shade we freeze and in the sun we fry. Our carry to 16,400 ft went well and we are now ready for some more rest time.
Today was a long hard effort getting out of the tents around 6:45 with not a breath of wind and clear skies; the not so fuzzy part was -10 F air temp. This had us all moving quickly to eat another bowl of oatmeal and down a cup of coffee before departing camp and wiggling vigorously to keep the fingers and toes warm.
When we reached the half way mark in our second leg of the carry, the sun popped up over the West Rib route and the rays warmed us to our core. It took just a half hour for us to be climbing in our base layer, welcoming the fry portion of our day.
The fixed lines on the West Buttress Head Wall were in great condition with fabulous cramponing - the teeth biting in the snow as if we were on steep green grass. I envy green grass as the only natural colors we have observed are white, blue and the light brown of the granite ridges rising thousands of feet above.
We chopped in firm snow to create a cache hole just big enough to drop food, fuel and supplies. The team then descended down the buttress a short way before a hot and relatively easy and smooth decent off the fixed lines and a short stroll back to our 14 advanced base camp!
In the tents yet again hiding from the magnificent orange ball in the sky! The future of the day and for tomorrow is to chill, eat, drink, and rest up for our summit push hopefully next week! We miss you all! The guides are currently craving an ice cold coke, some one please have one for us! Till tomorrow be happy be chill all is well!
Ciao,
RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens
On The Map
Saturday, June 8, 2013
Waking early this morning we shouldered out packs and made a bid to move some supplies higher on the mountain. Mild but cold enough temps kept the walking comfortable and we were able to cache at 11,000' camp before the sun came out in force. The team did great, and we made it back to our camp at the base of Ski Hill before the heat really turned on.
Now we are hiding in whatever shade we can find before an early dinner and bed. If the weather holds or at least remains workable, we will fire for 11 Camp in the wee hours tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
On The Map
Wow! The team is making great progress!
I love seeing pictures of the group!
We’re all rooting for you!
-S Brownie
P.S. All of the LA Rock Climbers say hello and send their best!
Posted by: S Brownie on 6/9/2013 at 9:56 pm
Great job guys good luck and always thinking of you all. Kalispell Montana
Posted by: Jay Rocha on 6/9/2013 at 7:12 am
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Friday, June 7, 2013
Happy 100 Year Anniversary of the first ascent of Denali to all our friends in the lowlands! We celebrated the occasion by leaving Basecamp for our first camp at the base of Ski Hill. On our way we ran into RMI Team 3 with Brent, Leah and Logan, fresh (generous term) from the summit. A big congratulations for a job well done.
We travelled early this morning, making use of the cooler temps to stay on the surface of the snow instead of post holing our way into utter frustration. Our way to camp was smooth and we can only hope the melting snow doesn't disappear too fast so that we can make our way out of here in a few weeks. I'm sure it will work out just fine.
We plan on calling it early tonight and carrying higher early tomorrow morning while it's still cold and then we can soak up the heat in the afternoon. The team is off to a great start, climbing strong and happy to be on the mountain.
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
On The Map
Bill “degrees of greatness”
Another great adventure….
Love the pictures
Sacramento, ca temperature108
Posted by: Bill&Cathy; on 6/9/2013 at 11:22 pm
great job, miss you and proud of you Barbara your amazing! All of you are amazing! Kalispell Montana
Posted by: jay rocha on 6/8/2013 at 7:22 am
Friday, June 7, 2013
Yes, we're back in Talkeetna after an incredible walk back to Base camp in the early morning hours. I think most of us are relaxing now after a much needed shower. In a short while we'll be back together for a great dinner not prepared by the guides and perhaps accompanied by an adult beverage ...and certainly including dessert. We've had a great run!
I for one will miss the company of a stellar group of individuals I can now call friends.
Perhaps you'll excuse their absence from your lives again sometime as we pursue our passion for the mountains. Of course, you'll always be close to them through these dispatches.
This will be our last, and I appreciate all your support and interest. The people you've been following are incredible individuals. We are fortunate to call them friends.
Bye for now,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
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Friday, June 7, 2013
Today, we are chilling out around camp like it's our job; in fact, it IS our job after yesterday's move up to 14,200'. The trial of moving with big packs in the relentless sun is behind us, and now we are enjoying our well earned rest.
The morning started when the sun crept around the ridge, taking the bite out of last night's sub-zero temperatures. The crystal blue skies above were inviting folks to grab sleeping bags and drape them over tents to dry out, as well as let the UV rays kill a week of accumulated funk.
As hot water came to a boil and the smells of frying bacon and eggs wafted over our tents, the crew came circling in like sharks sensing prey in the water. Our breakfast quesadillas lasted about as long as an injured fish in a feeding frenzy, too - but you know what they say: you have to eat your way right to the top of this mountain.
After the group appetite was satiated, team members waddled back to their tents in down booties, looking for more respite from the intense power if the sun. The route is easily visible from our tents, and we've seen plenty of teams heading up the route we'll follow tomorrow on our carry. The group morale is high and folks are climbing strong, although the new altitude is definitely noticeable.
Our afternoon today will include a review of fixed line travel techniques, in preparation for the carry tomorrow. But for now, we are simply enjoying being in one of the world's most beautiful places, with excellent weather and the bulk of Denali reminding us of what's to come. Thanks for all the kind wishes and keep sending the good vibes! Stay tuned...
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, and the Crew
On The Map
Robin and Team
Hope all is well up there in the thin air! Congrats to you all for passing the half way mark and I hope you get some well deserved rest and recharge for what lies ahead. You guys are nothing short of amazing! Best wishes and lots of prayers for you all for your continued safe ascent and good weather. Stay warm and stay safe.
Love you Robin
DAD
Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/8/2013 at 9:54 am
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
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Thursday, June 6, 2013
If our good luck holds out, this is our last night on Denali. It's just a little bitter sweet. This place has been on our thoughts and in our dreams for so long, and has given us an experience that will forever hold a special place in our hearts.
But now our thoughts turn to home, family and loved ones. Oh, and perhaps to a great meal and beer too.
To get to where we are now, back at our 11,200' camp, we've just descended 6000' feet of steep terrain with heavy loads. Everyone did well getting down the technical part of the Buttress and fixed ropes, then came time to tether the sleds and load up the stuff we cached at 14,200' camp.
And now, finally, we're back at 11,200' camp. A hastily set up camp followed by a quick dinner and we're horizontal. The chores have all been done and even the guides are in bed by 10:00pm. And just as well because we'll be up at 1:30am to get on a night time schedule to travel on snow that's hard and frozen, thereby insuring us safe travels over the crevassed glacier of the lower Kahiltna that warm and melt incredibly fast in the Alaskan summer.
But the best part of the trip is yet to come. Walking down the Kahiltna while the sun is just below the horizon has given me some of the most beautiful vistas I've ever witnessed, with the rosy tint of dawn hitting these hugely majestic Alaskan peaks all around us.
We're hoping to get to the airstrip by mid morning, so with luck we'll be back in Takkeetna tomorrow.
A little closer to you, but a world away from the mountain that has been our focus and challenge for the past couple of weeks. We'll miss her, but will carry with us a treasure of fond memories of our life spent here.
Your guides,
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
On The Map
Welcome home and thanks are given for your safe journey!
Posted by: Meredith on 6/7/2013 at 8:10 pm
Congratulations to you all for your wonderful accomplishment!Erich, I can’t wait to talk to you, maybe tonight for the first time in awhile! In the meantime, enjoy a good meal and some brews. LOVE YOU! Happy safe travels the rest of the way!
Posted by: Amberly on 6/7/2013 at 12:43 pm
Thursday, June 6, 2013
Awh ya! We are all moved in at 14,200' in the Genet Basin! Last evening we were put to bed by the clearing of the clouds and spectacular views of Kahiltna Dome, Mt. Foraker from the 11,000' camp. We had a windless night and woke to a brisk yet blue bird morning. We had a quick bite of oatmeal and a coffee, and like blades in a blender we whipped up our kit and saddled our packs to ride.
Our trip was smooth with a chance to further take in the unbelievable view of the entire Southern Alaska range. We rounded Windy Corner with a rest stop in zero wind. Our freckles could tell by late morning that the sun's inferno would take a toll on our energy. Regardless, we made great steady progress arriving in 14 camp in a little over 5 hours.
Arriving at camp is just part of the move day's work! We established camp quickly thanks to a previously occupied camp. Yet, making water, retrieving the cache, moving our belongings back in the tent coupled with new altitude is hard work.
This all pays off at the end of the day when you're snuggling with your big cached food bag and other piles of feathers We are reunited with! Laying in the tent as i write with a full belly of soup, tortellini, and cookies!
It is good to be moving up with sprits high, climbers enjoying the mountain and a rest day for tomorrow! Did I say Awhh ya?
RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens & The team
On The Map
You guys are doing GREAT!!! I love the positive energy that is coming from the message. Keep it up! :D Hugs and kisses to Lori. (Kisses from Maggie.) :) Good luck on the next climb and enjoy your rest day!
Love from the little mountains,
Casey and Maggie (“Woof!”)
Keep God in your heart.
Posted by: Casey Hansen on 6/9/2013 at 6:52 pm
d.
looks like the third maybe the charm. enjoy!
mom
Posted by: fran uhlir on 6/7/2013 at 9:33 pm
Thursday, June 6, 2013
Greetings from the Kahiltna Glacier! Our team flew from Talkeetna onto the mountain this morning and we've been busy setting up shop, pitching tents and dialing in camp. Our sleds are ready and it's an "early to bed, early to rise" type of morning in our future, provided the weather stays workable. Tomorrow we ride for the base of Ski Hill and start climbing.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
All reports sound good for the recent summits. Safe journey to all of you as you begin the climb. Our prayer flags are hung in the backyard for your summit and return. xoox, Bonny
Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 6/7/2013 at 12:01 pm
Good luck Everyone!
Love,
Your LA Fans
Posted by: S Brownie on 6/6/2013 at 10:57 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
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Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Leah awoke just before me and the first words out of her mouth when she went outside were: It's beautiful out. The sky is blue, there's no wind. I think it's the nicest day yet. And so the wheels were set in motion: firing up the reluctant stoves from their below zero degree slumber to get breakfast and hots going for the team, then waking everybody up to let them know that we were going for it again.
Even with yesterday's aborted attempt that certainly burned a bit of energy, the crew was excited and ready. This time, we didn't have to break trail up to Denali Pass. At first we were nervous about the colder temps, but these concerns proved unfounded as the sun shone brightly and warmed things up. As we ascended, things just got better and better, and our climbers responded well. In fact, they climbed flawlessly today. To say that I am particularly proud of everybody would be an understatement. No slips or oops or loss of focus that seem just an inevitable thing when a large group of folks climb for twelve hours. We reached the summit at about 4:00, the first team to summit today. After the hero pictures and summit hugs, we made our way back to camp well before the sun slid over the ridge.
Enjoying another dinner together was the finishing touch to a great day. We even got some singing out of one of our favorites, tired of body though he might have been, his spirit was obviously on a high. Now our thoughts go to the descent from this lofty camp. A couple of hard days and, with a little more luck, we might be seeing our loved ones soon. But for now, the cold of night is chasing me into my bed of down.
Goodnight from RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah, 17,200' on Denali.
On The Map
Hey Jo congrats again my friend , well done . What do you think , Harriman Sunday ?
Mike
Posted by: mike weber on 6/7/2013 at 3:08 pm
Great news…congratulations all! Monica is a stud-ess!!! Make the descent epic with your snowboards (tobaggans). Yeehaw!
Posted by: Aaron Knox on 6/7/2013 at 8:04 am
Posted by: Jake Beren, Josh Maggard, Leon Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 358'
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Hello,
This is the RMI Mt. McKinley June 4th Expedition. The whole team is here in Talkeetna, Alaska, packed and ready to rock. Today we packed up, checked our gear and sat in on a National Park Service orientation to preview a bit of the upcoming adventure. The team is excited and ready to launch. So far the flying weather hasn't let many folks land these days, but it appears to be stabilizing just in time for us to storm the SE fork of the Kahiltna. With any luck we'll fly out tomorrow morning, so we better get some rest tonight.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
Have fun & be safe - big props from Seattle!
Posted by: Stacey Guerrero on 6/8/2013 at 8:49 pm
Zurich wishes all the best and good luck for the whole team.
Posted by: Tom&Jerry;$ on 6/6/2013 at 12:06 pm
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James,
Cheers, what a challenge! Trust that you will be well hydrated and alert all the way to the summit with high spirit. Continue your adventure safely and enjoy what nature offers there. Following RMI blog. Praying for you and the team successful journey. Love, mom and dad
Posted by: Soonja Choo on 6/9/2013 at 5:27 pm
Go Fallout Go!!
Sounds like the team is doing great…keep it up!
sincerely,
-Deputy Dawg
Posted by: Steve Kennedy on 6/9/2013 at 4:50 pm
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