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Entries from Mt. McKinley


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Still Chillin at Basecamp

Thursday, July 4, 2013 It has been like a sunny beach vacation...except if it were sunny we would have flown far away from this particular snowy beach days ago. The snow keeps coming a bit harder and the forecast says through Sunday now. Could be worse; we have plenty of food, fuel, and great conversations! RMI Guide Mike Uchal made almost five hours worth of pancakes in a continuous stream for most of the camp. We have a small backlog of climbers around us. There are not many new climbers in basecamp since the weather has prohibited much movement on the mountain from any of the different camps. RMI Mt. McKinley Summit Team 6

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Hopeful for your getaway very soon!  Keep us posted.  Love, Mom and Dad Haugen

Posted by: Cindy Haugen on 7/6/2013 at 6:15 am

Missing you more every day. Good to hear your spirits are ok.  Can’t wait to hear that planes can make it in.  Got 3 holes in one today. Hug, mom and the guys. Ps did you put smiley faces on the pancakes?

Posted by: KAC on 7/5/2013 at 9:17 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 17 Camp

Thursday, July 4, 2013 Whulp, the weather gods didn't smile on us today. We went to bed under clear, calm skies, and high hopes for today, but when we awoke, it was to snow, blowing snow, and wind, and next to no visibility. It wasn't a hard choice to sit tight in camp today, rest up, and hope that the next few days bring our chance! Everybody is in high spirits, albeit ancy and ready to go. Hopefully we'll check in tomorrow or Saturday from the top! Happy Fourth of July to everybody out there. RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team

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Hats off to you all….it’s been a blast following this trek and moments where we wish we could be there with you b/c VERY hot here in upstate NY…travel mercies on the descent. Gil:I’ve been keeping Chandler in line. ~(:)

Posted by: Dana Holly Troy on 7/7/2013 at 8:16 am

Hola Guapo,
I have to assume you are summiting since there has been no news for two days!
We are munching nervously on the rest of your Kit Kat bars…..“oh my goodness!”
Forest Gump would say: “Run Guapo Ruuuun”!
Can’t wait to hear!
Lots Love!!

Posted by: marion and maya on 7/6/2013 at 7:13 am


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Move to 17,000’!

Wednesday, July 3, 2013 Hello all from 17 thousand feet! We made our move today through a whole mix of weather, though overall, it was a really pleasant day on the West Buttress. We left later than most groups, waiting to have some sun and warmth before we launched. As luck would have it we missed all the crowds on the fixed lines, and cruised to our cache at the base of Washburns Thumb. With our cache on board, it was one more mellow stretch, and we were rolling into camp at the perfect hour. A big dinner and hot drinks, and now we're tucking in for the night, hoping to wake up and see our summit day tomorrow! Keep your fingers crossed for good weather! Best from here, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team

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Derek - I hope you and the team are safe and will finally make summit in honor of the 4th of July!! 
Love, Aunt Rita

Posted by: Rita DeCamp on 7/4/2013 at 4:02 pm

So excited for you to reach the summit!
We are roasting to death in this humidity…you are far better off there!
I told you that you could make it to the top!
We can’t wait to hear all about it!
Lots Love and hugs
Guapa and Duckie

Posted by: marion and maya on 7/4/2013 at 2:37 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team - Ground Hog’s Day

Wednesday, July 3, 2013 We woke up today to more of the same conditions at McKinley Basecamp. At least with these conditions, there is no waiting around to see if we are going to fly. There is always tomorrow! We took a walk down to the lower airstrip to stretch our legs a bit. With plenty of food and gas, at least we are eating well! The morale is still good and the team is hanging in strong while missing our loved ones (and real food). RMI Mt. McKinley Summit Team 6

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Happy 4th of July To Cindee and her team! Wishing you all a safe and restful return, beers and tacos waiting for you when you get back to SF:)

Posted by: Jennifer on 7/4/2013 at 10:55 pm

The other night I had a warm peanut butter pop tart with a scoop of ice cream and some chocolate syrup.  I feel sure that had pop tarts been included on this expedition, you guys would not still be snowed in.

Posted by: Lisa Mackey on 7/4/2013 at 7:01 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Train at 11,200’

Wednesday, July 3, 2013 We hear that there was better weather in other places on Denali today, but not so much here at 11,000 ft. Different day, same weather. It was snow, blowing snow, cloud and blowing cloud. We made good use of an afternoon sun break to put on harnesses and crampons and go for a short walk on the lower half of "motorcycle hill" which is just above camp. It was a nice opportunity to stretch legs and review climbing techniques as well as a chance to see some cool blue crevasses. After a fine Mexican dinner, we chatted to pass the time and listened to radio traffic from around the mountain. It seems that we might have slightly better weather for a few days, at least according to our radio. We'll be ready to take advantage. There are four other guided parties waiting things out with us at 11 K and I'm certain they are ready to get moving again as well. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Glad you guys stopped lazing around in your tents and got out to get some exercise!!  : )  The Christofferson family sends our love to Anders and Happy Fourth of July to you all from the Jersey Shore.  Wish we could send up some of our burgers and corn on the cob!
Post Hurricane Sandy motto of the NJ Shore is “We are Stronger than the Storm”  You guys are too!

Posted by: judy christofferson on 7/4/2013 at 12:00 pm

Happy 4th of July everyone!!! Hugs and kisses Will :)

Posted by: Amy Huson on 7/4/2013 at 9:51 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Remain at Basecamp

Tuesday, July 2, 2013 Still here in base camp in case you were wondering. It is snowing with poor visibility. There were some "sucker holes" in the clouds that gave us some false hope at midday today. We did get out and get some exercise today. Everyone in camp that is waiting to fly got on their skis/snowshoes and stomped down a runway in the snow. We all took it quite seriously since we want the airstrip to be ready when the weather is good enough to fly! Everyone is happy and healthy and ready to be off the mountain. Cross your fingers! RMI Mt. McKinley Summit Team 6 P.S. Lance wants his girls to know he loves them and will be home soon. P.S.S. Steve will call Tania, mom and dad, & Bill and Lisa as soon as he is off the mountain.

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There is an insane amount of cold diet coke in the fridge. Just saying. Jack and I loveyou, Quinn!!!

Posted by: Liz & Jack on 7/3/2013 at 7:27 pm

Steve and Grasshopper,
Congratulations on achieving the summit! So happy you were able to persevere through. Thinking of you this holiday, stay safe. Working on sending clear weather your way:)
Robin(pinky)

Posted by: Robin Biedrzycki on 7/3/2013 at 6:51 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Rest and Lounge at 11,000’

Tuesday, July 2, 2013 There was some reason for optimism at 6 this morning when snow stopped falling and we were granted a view of some blue sky and the upper mountain. The guides got up and out to brew a cup of coffee and to watch the skies. It was considerably colder at 11,000 ft this morning, down to about what should be "normal" for this place. We watched clouds build up again and eventually we found ourselves in another snowstorm before we could even call the gang to breakfast. Mike King taught a well-attended seminar on knots and hitches in the main dining tent for a good chunk of the morning. Some lounged the day away in the POSH while others returned to their own tents to clear the snow and read/sleep/zone-out. Our afternoon was brightened when our good friends Tyler Jones and Laura Rogers, of RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering respectively came skiing down out of the storm. They are up to play and were just successful a few days back in climbing Denali's North Peak. They regaled us with all of the news of the other teams around the mountain and a pretty comprehensive wrap up of the entire season in the range. Eventually, they moved down into the clouds to get a little closer to Basecamp and we moved back into our POSH tent for dinner and a final round of stimulating conversation before bed. We remain optimistic that the snow will quit and the clouds will flee. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Start toward 17, Then Return

Tuesday, July 2, 2013 We had a little bit of a false start here this morning. We woke at 5.30 to clear conditions, and lower winds up above. Altogether, it was a great looking scene, albeit cold; the coldest temps we have seen all trip. We ate a hasty breakfast, and packed camp to move to 17,000'. As we started to walk, clouds began to build, and the winds on the Buttress were rising too. At the base of the fixed lines, we decided that today wasn't the day to make our move, and we retreated back to 14,200' to reset camp. A day like today is tough, but we made the right decision, and everyone is in good spirits. We're hoping that tomorrow morning provides a better opportunity! Until then, best from Alaska. RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team

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Guapo;
sorry to hear you didn’t get to 17,000 today, but it makes me comfortable knowing that your team guides care about your welfare and safety,and won’t take unnecessary risks.
Best of luck tomorrow,rest well
Guapa

Posted by: marion and maya on 7/3/2013 at 10:22 pm

Hey Gail good to hear you guys are getting some exercise up there…I was beginning to worry you were getting lazy.  Ha…kidding of course!  Sounds like yesterday was a long one, but great to hear everyone is doing well and best of luck for a break in the weather.  Happy early 4th of July, stay safe, have fun!! -Becky

Posted by: Becky on 7/3/2013 at 2:06 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Continue to Wait at Basecamp

July 1, 2013 We are still here. And by here, I mean McKinley Basecamp airstrip in a snowstorm. I am usually an optimist in these types of situations, but the forecast is for days of the muck. In order to improve international relations, we have adopted two Russian climbers that reached the summit the same day we did and are stuck with us. Andre and Igor pretend to like our jokes and our cooking so we will keep them awhile! I told the group we were making them Vietnamese Pho for dinner. Really it was Ramen with some dehydrated vegetables. Although they knew what it was, they put some Sriracha hot sauce in it and humored me! RMI Summit Team 6 P.S. Cindee says Happy Birthday Roger!

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At Itasca. Missing you. Can’t wait to talk.

Love,

Dad, Mom and David

Posted by: Mike on 7/3/2013 at 11:49 am

Oh dear.  Stuck for days and no pop tarts?

Posted by: Lisa Mackey on 7/2/2013 at 11:44 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Hunker Down at 11,200’

Monday, July 1, 2013 Our storm got real in the night, with cannon-like broadsides of wind and ice particles assaulting the tents. It was serious enough that the guides were out stumbling around from midnight to 2 AM, cutting snow blocks and building walls, but not serious enough that the whole team needed to be in on the fun. It snowed and blew for much of the night, with the wind changing direction every now and then in order to keep things interesting. Although the alarm had been set early for climbing, it was obvious as the morning progressed that we'd simply have to hunker down and ride out the storm. Around mid-morning we rallied the whole crew to eat breakfast, dig out tents and build more walls. Then it was back into the tents for a few hours. We finished the day with some avalanche transceiver training by Zeb Blais, a fine dinner by Erik Nelson and Mike King, and some tall tales by yours truly. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Erik can cook?

Posted by: Kurt Nelson on 7/3/2013 at 7:25 pm

Hope the weather improves so that you guys don’t have to stay cooped up in tents on the side of the mountain. Hopefully the avalanche transceiver training will be for naught, but glad that you have it.

Posted by: Vicki on 7/2/2013 at 4:45 pm

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