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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: June 11th - Team Haugen Arrives in Talkeetna

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

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Wednesday, June 12, 2013 Hi All! We are hanging out in beautiful Talkeetna, Alaska. We had a gorgeous day for organizing and packing our gear. the sun is shining and the mountain is visible in the distance. The team met up in Anchorage yesterday and have been slowly molding into Summit Assassin RMI Team 6! They really are a great crew! Our gear is all bagged, weighed, and tagged. We got the word that we are all supposed to fly to basecamp around 9 tomorrow morning so we are all scrambling to get in those last correspondences and last minute tasks before the morning. We are all set for an incredible expedition. Off to bed for an early start- RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Good luck and be safe. We are thinking about you always.

Posted by: Bill Mackey on 6/13/2013 at 8:32 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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Wednesday, June 12, 2013 A fine day for a move presented itself to us this morning and we certainly made the most of it. Leaving our 11,000' Camp in the early morning cold is great training for the chill of higher altitude and we made a solid bid before the sun came out in force. It's nearly always hot coming into 14 and today was no exception. We were treated to some real hospitality when we arrived in the form of another RMI Team, led by Tyler Jones and Garret Stevens. Freshly hydrated, we set to work building camp and rebuilding ourselves with a big meal and early night's rest. Tomorrow is a rest day, but I hazard a guess that we will be working in some way most of the day, retrieving a cache, fortifying camp and practicing for the fixed lines. It is exciting to be up here with such a great team! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Galen,
I wait eagerly everyday for updates, checking the blog multiple times (despite the fact that I have subscribed to notifications). I have also read the blogs of the team you saw come down after their summit as well as the other team who’s also at 14k but started before your team. Reading all of these incredible stories and lush descriptions makes me jelly :( and reminds me of when I camped on top of tajumulco. Looks like there’s a bit of very cold and fierce wind and you may have to wait before climbing to 17k and/or to the top. By my calculations, you have 2/3 days of buffer time so hopefully the winds will die down a bit. Or “if you can hold on. If you can hold on, hold on.” Today I found myself thinking and brainstorming about our travel and it made me happy. I hope to see you soon R

Posted by: Alice on 6/14/2013 at 1:04 am

Keep up the great work everyone!I miss you Michael, have fun and be safe. Love Vien.

Posted by: Vien Vail on 6/13/2013 at 5:22 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Wait Another Day

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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Wednesday, June 12, 2013 Today is unfortunately another out chill situation. Garrett and I woke about 6 this morning to continued strong wind from 16,000 feet and above. The nature of the climbing is steep and exposed. With wind and a very cold north east flow, the risk of frostbite and loss of balance from the wind gusts, we have chosen to stay another day and hope for less wind tomorrow. We try to conserve our lunch food and avoid the piggy tendency that sitting and waiting in the tents provides! The weather is clear and warm in most of Alaska, but at the altitudes we want to venture into, the jet stream is on! On a more positive note, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his crew pulled into camp this afternoon, making for a great meeting of the minds in our 14,200' home. We are excited to spend some time with friends and climbing partners from past trips, although we do have high hopes for a move tomorrow. Report back soon! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

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Jess and team,

Mother nature will cooperate, she is just having one of those days.  Weather down here not much better.  Keep up the spirits, it will get better.

Jess, miss you here! Keep up the great work. 

Love, Hector

Posted by: Hector Valle on 6/13/2013 at 4:35 pm

Robin and Team!
Kudos to all of you for staying put and being safe! I have faith that conditions will be much better tomorrow and you will be able to move to your high camp.
Stay safe and stay warm and lots of prayers for your safe successful climb tomorrow. As the lyrics go “movin on up!”  Look forward to your next blog from high camp!
Love DAD

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/13/2013 at 6:18 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 13,500’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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Tuesday, June 11, 2013 All these early mornings are sure getting us dialed on working in the cold and will surely pay off up high. Today we led the way out of 11,000 ft camp by a few hours and reaped the reward of hitting the sun at a not-so Windy Corner and putting in our cache at 13,500 ft in still, warm weather. The team did a great job and collectively we avoided baking in the afternoon sun. Now back at camp, the team is relaxing and recovering so that if Mother Nature allows, we can bump camps to 14,000' tomorrow. All we can do now is rest up and hope that Windy Corner lets us through one more time. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard

On The Map

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Thinking of Galen and the rest of the team and hoping that Windy Corner is not too windy for your ascent, and that the weather lets you enjoy the mountain at each step along the way.  Stay strong and safe. Kathleen and Bill, Arlington, VA

Posted by: Kathleen and Bill on 6/12/2013 at 6:59 pm

James and Others:

It sounds like “Miss McKinley” is making sure you appreciate what you have courageous chosen to pursue (and in due time achieve).  Knowing you ... you are enjoying the challenge even more ... while becoming even more aware of your unique adventurous drive,  persistence, and stamina!  Please help each other stay patient, optimistic and (most importantly) safe.  Best of success as you all continue to ascent!

Fred

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/12/2013 at 12:23 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Team Jones Waiting For Calmer Winds

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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June 11, 2013 You can't always get what you want... Those lyrics from Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones were the first thing that went through the collective consciousness this morning. The guides woke at 6am, packed sleeping bags in preparation for departure and unzipped the tent - only to see winds whipping the ridge of the West Buttress route above. While camp here at 14,200' remains relatively calm, the higher reaches of the mountain are getting pummeled by ferocious northeast winds, which are sending plumes of spindrift snow off into the stratosphere. With a forecast high temperature of -15F at the 17,000' camp today, and winds gusting well into the 30mph range, the only safe option is to wait here in camp and hope for a less windy day to make our move. That combination of wind and temperature will actually feel like -65F (approximately), which can freeze exposed flesh in one minute. Needless to say, we're not going to venture into that kind environment. So here we sit and wait, hoping for a break in the wind. We were treated to a bodacious air show earlier, when the contract helicopter, an A-Star B-3, came ripping around and right over our tents about three times in a row. Seems like they are doing some sort of filming up here, and we all mugged shamelessly as the ship blasted less than 40 feet above us. Good entertainment, to say the least. While we have had more than one facetious conversation about moving in the wind storm, the group is prepared to wait for the right time and the right weather window. To channel the Stones yet again (and continue the song): If you try sometimes, you might find you get what you need So here's hoping we get what we need! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the patiently waiting team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Completely enjoy today and the amazing view from where you are….you are somewhere so very few have ever been! Way to feel and create the magic of your life’s goals :)!  Onwards and Upwards to you all!!!

Posted by: Sue Lopez on 6/12/2013 at 12:58 pm

Nothing wrong with sitting tight and waiting for the right moment. Just stay safe and stay warm and have another bagel:) We’ll be praying for your weather to break… and you will get what you need. Looking forward to your next installment.
Cheers and prayers for you all!

Matt -1

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/11/2013 at 10:03 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Continue Rest at 14,000’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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Monday, June 10, 2013 A windy and cold night was greeted by more wind. For our team this is no issue, as we had planned this second consecutive rest day. This will be just the ticket for a more acclimatized and rested body that we will need for summit success. The menu for this morning was supreme. Round upon round of bagels with cream cheese topped with bacon along with hash browns covered in cheese took us once again well past noon to complete. The places we travel in the mountains can lead one to believe we are Martians, ready to launch onto to another planet - and that is exactly what we are doing. We push ourselves both mentally and physically, taking our personal learning and discovery to a higher level. When we return from these Martian lands, after having come face to face with deep personal truths and surpassing previously held limitations...we bring a richer and more rounded person home, someone who understands more about the nature of teamwork, sacrifice, and awareness. We thank you all for the support and the opportunity to let us dig deep and take on a new understanding of our passions! The afternoon has more smelly tent time spent pounding water, fussing over who is the best celeb of all time and growing hairier by the day! The forecast is looking to set up nicely over the next few days and we hope to move to our high camp tomorrow. Till then keep the vibe high for our push! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the crew

On The Map

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Great work Justin aka Jason. can’t wait to see your pictures. Clubbie

Posted by: Kathy on 6/11/2013 at 9:29 am

Nice going!  And congratulations, Justin—I think the Kensington Fire Department lightweights have nothing on you now.

Posted by: Peter on 6/11/2013 at 8:31 am

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Mt. McKinley: Team Beren Enjoys Rest Day

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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Monday, June 10, 2013 It did snow a little bit last night and the cold wind this morning made a camp day a welcome change of pace for this team. We are climbing very well so far, and I'm sure everyone would've done just fine continuing higher this morning. Patience on the big mountain is key, and the recovery day will only make us stronger for the future as we acclimatize and settle in to camp life. After a big breakfast we reviewed some cramponing techniques and ice axe usage. After our mid-morning relaxation session we are going to have a potluck lunch and move to a little rope work and cache digging before dinner. Tomorrow if the weather is workable we will carry towards 14,000' Camp and get a little taste of some real altitude. Everyone sends their best to family and friends back home. Over and out, RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Team Caraccio is thinking of you Mike. You are an inspiration to us all. Love Lori

Posted by: Lori on 6/11/2013 at 4:15 pm

Thinking of you Michael. I love you and miss you!
Vien

Posted by: Vien Vail on 6/11/2013 at 11:13 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Arrive to 11,000 Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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Sunday, June 9, 2013 Tonight we will sleep well after three big days on the lower Kahiltna. We arrived to 11,000' camp in the early warmth of a new day and made camp easily. A strong performance by the team gives us great confidence in our abilities the higher we move and with a full day of rest tomorrow, we should only grow stronger. The rest day won't be entirely lounging about. We are going to review some tricks of the trade for motion on the upper mountain and ready loads for our carry towards our 14,000' Camp. So with a light snow falling onto our tents and the sound of other teams passing through camp, we say goodnight to our friends and family. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard

On The Map

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Looking good, Thanks for the wonderful updates and photos. B Safe and have fun! Kalispell Montana

Posted by: Jay Rocha on 6/10/2013 at 12:06 pm

Getting tremendous vicarious enjoyment from your trip!  Keep up the fantastic work!!

Posted by: Nina Baj on 6/10/2013 at 11:43 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Rest at 14,000’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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After yesterday's carry up into the thin air of 16,000', the team is enjoying the sun and leisurely pace of a rest day here in Genet Basin. The morning started when the sun came around the ridge, thawing the tents and prying open our closed eyes from a well-earned night of sleep. We headed over to our posh house and spent the better part of two hours making and eating blueberry pancakes with peanut butter and bacon. Movie quotes bubbled up from the crew like water from a fountain, followed by a discussion of other vacation ideas (mostly tropical). We drank hot coffee and generally continued to bond together, enjoying the calm morning. This afternoon, we're planning to head over to a zone known as "the edge of the world," which lies about 20 minutes southwest of camp. The basin in which we're camped drops precipitously away about 5,000 vertical feet at this location, providing outlandish views of the Kahiltna Glacier, Mt Hunter, Mt Foraker, and the vast Alaskan wilderness. This light acclimatization hike will let us flush the lactic acid we accumulated yesterday, stretch sore legs, and soak up more of the beauty that surrounds us. At day 11 on the mountain, thoughts can easily turn to the little things you miss from the lowlands - trees, birdsong, bacon cheeseburgers. But our team is still focused on the ascent, and remains mentally strong and poised to move higher yet. We'll check back in tomorrow, so don't change that channel! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the team

On The Map

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Robin,
Looks like you have an amazing view from up there!. I see that the movie quotes abound up there… wonder who that could be??:)  Hope you are having a great time near the top of the world looking down on all us flat landers. Can’t wait to hear the stories and see the photos. Stay safe and stay warm.

Love DAD

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/10/2013 at 10:53 am

Sounds like things are going well and the food certainly sounds good.  I’ll eat just about about anything that has bacon or peanut butter on it.  How’s the weather looking?  I assume you’ll be looking for that 3-day clear window before leaving 14 camp.  Wish I was there with all of you.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/10/2013 at 9:38 am

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Mt. McKinley: Team Jones- Freeze or Fry! Carry to 16,400’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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Saturday, June 8, 2013 Bonjour, from the fryer at 14 camp. The essence of climbing the great big mountains is that in the shade we freeze and in the sun we fry. Our carry to 16,400 ft went well and we are now ready for some more rest time. Today was a long hard effort getting out of the tents around 6:45 with not a breath of wind and clear skies; the not so fuzzy part was -10 F air temp. This had us all moving quickly to eat another bowl of oatmeal and down a cup of coffee before departing camp and wiggling vigorously to keep the fingers and toes warm. When we reached the half way mark in our second leg of the carry, the sun popped up over the West Rib route and the rays warmed us to our core. It took just a half hour for us to be climbing in our base layer, welcoming the fry portion of our day. The fixed lines on the West Buttress Head Wall were in great condition with fabulous cramponing - the teeth biting in the snow as if we were on steep green grass. I envy green grass as the only natural colors we have observed are white, blue and the light brown of the granite ridges rising thousands of feet above. We chopped in firm snow to create a cache hole just big enough to drop food, fuel and supplies. The team then descended down the buttress a short way before a hot and relatively easy and smooth decent off the fixed lines and a short stroll back to our 14 advanced base camp! In the tents yet again hiding from the magnificent orange ball in the sky! The future of the day and for tomorrow is to chill, eat, drink, and rest up for our summit push hopefully next week! We miss you all! The guides are currently craving an ice cold coke, some one please have one for us! Till tomorrow be happy be chill all is well! Ciao, RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens

On The Map

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James,
Cheers, what a challenge! Trust that you will be well hydrated and alert all the way to the summit with high spirit. Continue your adventure safely and enjoy what nature offers there. Following RMI blog. Praying for you and the team successful journey. Love, mom and dad

Posted by: Soonja Choo on 6/9/2013 at 5:27 pm

Go Fallout Go!!
Sounds like the team is doing great…keep it up! 

sincerely,
-Deputy Dawg

Posted by: Steve Kennedy on 6/9/2013 at 4:50 pm

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