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Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
The pictures get more and more breathtaking and the blog makes this so real. So proud of you!
Posted by: Mom / Grandma on 3/30/2011 at 10:48 am
MORE PICTURES!!!! I am so excited to read your blog! It makes it so much more real! thanks and keep us posted! xo,lynn
Posted by: Lynn Crow on 3/30/2011 at 9:07 am
Posted by: Pepper Dee
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
The vast majority of climbers that come climb Mt. Rainier with us live in decidedly unmountainous places. As a former fellow flatlander, I can sympathize. There is actually a surprising amount of training literature out there targeted at folks living in mountain towns (think gaining 3,000 feet twice a week), and recently, folks training for high end alpinism (think Steve House). But when it comes to “Joe Climber” living in Kansas hoping to be strong on Denali or Mt. Rainier, in my experience there is a real gap in available resources. I don’t claim to be an expert on the subject, but I certainly have strong opinions as to how best to go about this type of training, based on my own personal experience. And so, without further ado, I present to you the 4 principles of the flatlander’s guide to mountaineering training:
Diversify your training. Face it. You live in the Midwest. The terrain that directly simulates your mountaineering objective does not exist in your backyard. Therefore no single exercise or activity can adequately prepare you for that objective, which means that you must pursue a wide variety of training activities. If all “Joe Climber” does to train for his Rainier climb is run, he will be in great shape for running. But he will not be in great shape for Rainier. Which leads me to the second principle...
Emphasize strength training. When we say you need to be strong for the mountains, we mean that quite literally. Carrying big loads uphill and downhill day after day requires a significant amount of muscle recruitment, and you can’t recruit it if it’s not there. The majority of my time training in the flatlands is actually spent in the gym, performing exercises that emphasize muscular and core strength. I’ll save my personal lifting program for another article, but I’m a big believer in free weights and olympic lifting, rather than machines. Performing a squat using perfect technique not only builds strength in your butt, quads, and calves, but also strengthens your core/low back and improves your balance. No single machine can do all this, and machines can even lead to injury by over-strengthening certain muscle groups at the expense of others.
When it comes to cardio, think long duration/low intensity. As a mountaineer, we work best in our aerobic zone. This is why we pressure breathe, rest step, and do everything we can to conserve energy in the mountains. So when we train, it makes sense to maximize our output in what Steve House and Scott Johnston refer to as “Zone 1.” To quote their book, Training for the New Alpinism, “Improving [Zone 1 fitness] will pay bigger dividends in alpine climbing than time spent improving any other quality because it allows you to sustain higher submaximal climbing speeds for longer times” (58). And to reiterate my first principle, mix it up! I’ll run, I’ll swim, I’ll bike, I’ll run up stadium stairs if available. But when I do, I’ll shoot to be moving for at least 90 minutes.
The best defense against altitude is hyper-attentive self care before and during the trip. Altitude weighs heavily on most climbers’ minds pre-trip (particularly those climbers living in the flatlands), and for good reason: more than any other aspect of a mountaineering trip, how your body responds to altitude is the one factor you can’t fully control. But you can stack the odds heavily in your favor. Before the trip leaves, be sure you are on a consistent and complete sleep schedule. Be sure you are eating well. I’ve talked to guides who swear by airborne, or probiotics. Everyone’s a little different, but if you find a supplement that consistently keeps you healthy, go with it. On the trip itself, dealing with altitude becomes even more straightforward. Never let yourself get too cold. Force yourself to eat. Force yourself to drink. Force yourself to breathe. The climbers that take these four concepts to heart, nine times out of ten, are the climbers who summit.
So what do you do with these principles? Well, you construct a training schedule. My schedule, as a college student in Massachusetts training for Denali, looked something like this:
Monday: AM-swim PM-lift
Tuesday: PM-water jug hill repeats
Wednesday: PM-circuit training/lift
Thursday: PM-long run (90 min+)
Friday: AM-swim PM-lift
Saturday: PM-bike
Sunday: Rest
There are a lot of ways to construct a solid training schedule. I was limited that year by classes, other obligations, and going rock and ice climbing whenever I got the chance. But keeping in mind the four principles, I was able to train my way into comfort on Denali, all while living in a flat location. Now, train hard, rest hard, and I’ll see you in the mountains!
_____
Pepper Dee grew up in Missouri, but found his love for the mountains at an early age. Based out of Bozeman, he guides trips on Mt. Rainier, Denali, and abroad to Aconcagua. A long time flatlander, Pepper knows what it takes to prepare for a big climb without the luxury of mountains in his backyard.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
if you have any west Virginia climbers a good training location is the Kaymoor Miners trail in Fayetteville WV on the New River Gorge. About 900 ft elevation over all. the bottom 1/2 is a stairs of 821 steps. great workout!
Posted by: rob dunn on 3/14/2017 at 11:39 am
Posted by: Alex Halliday, Dustin Wittmier, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
On Friday the Camp Muir Expedition Skills Seminar returned from five days of training on Mount Rainier. Aspiring climbers learned a variety of movement and technical skills that will further their future mountain experiences. This wraps up RMI trips on Rainier this season, thank you to everyone who has been following along!
Posted by: Mike Uchal
Categories: Mount Rainier Responsible Climbing
Every summer, RMI climbing teams consume over 7,000 gallons of drinking water at Camp Muir, the primary camp on Mt. Rainier's Disappointment Cleaver Route. For many years, melting snow in a large barrel heated by propane created drinking water for Camp Muir. We knew that there was a better way to provide drinking water to our teams and it just required a little bit of creativity, brainstorming, and initiative. Over the course of the 2012 and 2013 climbing seasons, a new solar thermal system was installed at Camp Muir. This system, designed to use environmentally benign and free solar energy to efficiently melt snow, provides drinking and cooking water for RMI climbers and guides at an elevation of 10,060'. The system was designed and built by RMI Guide and alternative energy professor Mike Uchal and his colleague Dr. Brian Raichle, who is a professor of solar energy technology at Appalachian State University. RMI Guide Cody Doolan also contributed with the design, installation, and maintenance. RMI's Solar Snow Melt System, part of our commitment to Responsible Climbing, reduces our environmental footprint on Mt. Rainier by minimizing the need to burn liquid propane gas in order to melt snow, cuts our operating costs, and reduces the environmental footprint of the helicopter used to transport propane to Camp Muir.
How it works:
A small electric pump powered by photovoltaic panels pulls water from the burn barrel, a large barrel used to melt snow, uphill to a solar thermal collector. The collector, a conventional flat plate solar thermal collector is the kind that is typically used in residential and commercial domestic hot water systems. The water is pulled by gravity through the copper pipes in the collector and is heated by solar radiation before returning to the melt barrel. RMI guides keep the barrel fed with clean snow from the snowfields above Camp Muir and this snow mixes with the warm water and melts into liquid form. A controller turns on the pump in the morning and off at the end of the day when the sun goes down. Because the collector is uphill of the barrel, gravity drains water from the collector at night to prevent damage from freezing water. This system design eliminates any problems associated with overheating during late season conditions when solar energy can be plentiful and strong.
How it performs:
On warm, sunny days at Camp Muir, typical in the late summer, the solar snow melting system heated the 30+ gallons of water in the burn barrel to above 100°F. That is nearly spa temperature! On cold, sunny days, often found early in the season, the system heated water to temperatures above 40°F - enough to effectively melt snow. Propane is still used during storms that last several days, when solar radiation isn’t strong enough to heat the collector, but the solar snow melting system dramatically reduced the amount of propane burned during the 2013 summer climbing season.
Anecdotally, before the 2013 climbing season the propane burner was running for around 3.5 hours per day to melt enough snow to provide drinking water for the RMI teams. During the 2013 climbing season, guides estimate that the burner was needed on average around 15 minutes per day. During the summer climbing season of 2013, we estimate the solar system saved approximately 250 pounds of propane, the associated cost of transport that propane, and 0.33 metric tons of CO2 emissions.
This project is part of RMI’s commitment to the outdoor community and environment as we work to reduce the environmental footprint of our climbs in order to ensure that many future generations are able to enjoy the same mountain environment that we enjoy. The RMI Solar Snow Melt System is a great example of practices that can reduce a business' environmental footprint and provide cost savings at the same time. By the end of its first full year at Camp Muir, the system paid for itself with savings in fuel and helicopter transport costs. The next time you make it to Camp Muir, swing by the guide shack and check it out! The guides would love to show you the system in person.
_________
Mike Uchal is a Professor of Alternative Energy at Appalachian State University and guides trips on Mt. Rainier and Mt. McKinley for RMI Expeditions. Mike lives the mountain life, rock climbing, paddling whitewater, mountain biking, trail running, and skiing whenever he has spare time.
Thanks for sharing such an amazing informations.
Very helpful.
Rachel
Posted by: Rachel on 1/16/2019 at 5:46 pm
http://www.rmiguides.com/blog/2014/06/05/mt._rainier_expedition_skills_seminar_muir_reaches_summit
Hello folks looking for the skills seminar this week. There was a posting yesterday but not under Rainier. The above link will take you to a great picture!
Posted by: Doug on 6/6/2014 at 4:13 pm
On The Map
Go Bill and Sara, we’re with you!! Braves win the opener 2 - 0. Chipper doubles in his 1st AB and Hayward homers!
Posted by: Henry G on 3/31/2011 at 3:52 pm
Posted by: Joe Hoch, Grayson Swingle, David Price, Leif Bergstrom, Josh Hankin, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,300'
The Five Day Climb August 30 - 3 September completed their program. The team met on Monday for their Orientation and Equipment check, then headed out the next day above Paradise for a full day of Mountaineering School. With their glacier travel training complete the team ascended 4.5 miles to Camp Muir on Tuesday. They spent two nights at Camp Muir and were able to explore the route up to 11,300', the group was unable to make a summit attempt due to route conditions. However, they did get in some crevasse rescue training. Today the group finished up a bit more training before packing up and descending to Paradise.
Congratulations team - we hope you enjoyed your time on the mountain!
Thanks to the guide team and my fellow hikers for helping to get the most that the mountain would allow. Hard to beat being on a glacier in a spectacular landscape. Hike On!
Posted by: Steven McKenna on 9/7/2021 at 10:29 am
Thats so cool to spend so much time on the mountain. Blessed.
Posted by: Bryan Lundgaard on 9/4/2021 at 12:36 am
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Categories: Everest BC Trek
9. Lama Geshe: A renowned spiritual leader living in a small house in Pangboche, Lama Geshe never fails to greet visitors with a deep laugh and broad smile. As he chants prayers in his native Tibetan in a deep but soft voice, he provides a fascinating appreciation and insight into the Buddhist process of embarking on a journey, whether for an Everest Expedition or a trip to visit distant relatives.
8. Momos: Akin to Chinese dumplings, the Nepalese momo is a delicious treat after a long day on the trail.
7. Afternoon prayers at the Tengboche Monastery: After making the 1,300’ ascent to the ridge top Monastery, find a seat along the edges of the Dokhang (the prayer hall), framed by a two story tall golden statue of Buddha, and listen to the deep chants of the resident monks fill the space.
6. Exploring Namche Bazaar: Perched on a hillside in the middle of the Khumbu, Namche Bazaar is the cultural and economic hub of this mountainous region. Yaks, monks, and Tibetan traders share the narrow streets with locals and trekkers alike, and a new discovery can be found around every corner, from tailors to bakeries to monasteries and museums.
5. The experience of trekking lodge-to-lodge: After a warm breakfast served in a cozy dining room, shoulder a light day pack with only the gear you need for the day, leaving your duffel outside your door, and start up the trail. Spend the day wandering through villages, fields, and valleys, until you reach your next night's teahouse where your bag awaits. The teahouses are simple but comfortable, with cozy community dining rooms to eat, relax, and socialize in and sleeping rooms just down the hall.
4. The Trail: While the excitement of trekking to Base Camp is reaching the foot of Everest at the end of the trail, the wonder comes from the entire experience of traveling the trail, where a simple centuries old footpath serves as both highway through the valley and the villages' Main Streets. Slow your pace now and again to look around and take in the shops, homes, and life that all happens right along the path!
3. Island Peak's summit ridge: Ringed by several of the world's greatest mountains (Nuptse, Lhotse, Everest, and Ama Dablam), the airy summit ridge of Island Peak provides all of the excitement of Himalayan climbing in a short extension to the spring trek.
2. Spending the night at Everest Base Camp: you've walked all that way, why turn around and leave again in a matter of hours? Spending the night in Base Camp is a peek into the full experience of embarking on an Everest Expedition and enjoying a cup of tea while watching the sun peak over the top of the Western Cwm is an unforgettable moment.
1. Stopping to soak it all in: The Khumbu is simply an amazing place. One of the best things is just being there: stopping to dig your heels into the ground and looking around. There is nowhere else in the world like it.
Ready to experience the Khumbu for yourself? Join RMI on a trek to Everest Base Camp!
Please see our in depth blog about hiking to everest base camp. We have pictures, our budget, planning, and pictures/videos. It should be very helpful for you!
http://www.ditchthemap.com/travel-blog/2016/4/15/14-day-everest-base-camp-trek-in-nepal
Posted by: Scott on 4/26/2016 at 11:30 pm
It is one of the best Everest Base Camp Trekking blog i have ever read. Really well written n knowledgeable thanks for sharing glad to read your blog.
Posted by: Everest Base Camp Trekking on 4/6/2015 at 12:26 am
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Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
| DAY | WORKOUT | TOTAL TIME | DIFFICULTY |
| 1 | Rainier Dozen / Easy Hiking ( 30 min) | 42 min. | Medium |
| 2 | Rainier Dozen / High Intensity Stair Interval Training (60 min) | 72 min. | Very Hard |
| 3 | Rainier Dozen / Rest | 12 min. | Recovery |
| 4 | Strength Circuit Training x 4 | 54 min. | Hard |
| 5 | Rainier Dozen / Rest | 12 min. | Recovery |
| 6 | Fitness Test | 60 min. | Medium |
| 7 | Rainier Dozen / Hike (4 hrs, 15lbs of pack weight) | 252 min. | Medium |
| Total | 8 hrs 24 mins |
What is a realistic pack weight from base to camp Muir and from Muir to summit?
Thank you
Posted by: Mark on 11/26/2019 at 8:58 am
I am climbing Rainier in mid May 2018 and plan to utilize the 16 week training plan starting first week in January. Where can I find the plan online? or can I begin getting these emails to start in Jan 2018? thanks john
Posted by: John Gay on 11/17/2017 at 11:56 am
Starting week 6 of Fit by Nature, awesome philosophy of fitness by active, outdoor lifestyle. I love the Daily Dozen and being able to link the natural features of our community: bike paths, parks, beaches & hills to create a mini adventure every day, while making sure I’m ready for the big adventure any day!
Posted by: Jim McCracken on 3/31/2014 at 11:18 am
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