The Four Day Climb August 8 - 11, 2024 led by RMI Guides Alan Davis and Jackson Breen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Alan reported a beautiful day on the mountain and a good climb this morning. The teams spent a bit of time on the crater before starting their descent from the crater rim aroun 6:30 am. They are currently heading back to Camp Muir where they will take a quick break, re-pack their gear and continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise. There program will conclude this afternoon with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.
YAYYY JULIA! We are so proud of you!!! You inspire us everyday and we know you’ve worked so hard for this
Posted by: Adora, Joseph, & Aku on 8/11/2024 at 6:53 pm
Congratulations to the whole team and a huge Thank You to the guides who helped them stay safe and encouraged them along the way! Most people just dream of things they would like to do, but this group persevered and lived their dream. It’s an experience they will never forget! Natalie, Allison, and team members, you are rockstars!!
Saturday, June 29, 2019 - 9:29 PM PT
We woke up to a beautiful morning with a tiny breeze and a clear sky. We spoke with RMI Guide Mike Walter's team over the radio and they let us know that the weather was also nice at 17k.
We rallied the troops and made quick work of breakfast and tearing down our camp at 14k. Although 14k is a nice camp, we want to be in position when our summit opportunity arises.
We made our way back up the fixed lines and climbed the beautiful ridge up to 17k Camp. This camp definitely does not have all of the charm that 14k does. In fact, it is quite a bit more harsh up here. Nevertheless, the group is all happy and healthy tucked into our safe little tents.
The forecast does not look great for a summit for tomorrow, but we will wake up and get the "now cast" and see what our day will bring. We brought plenty of food and fuel in case we have to do some camping for a couple of days to get our perfect weather!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete
Meghan and team, wishing you all good vibes for a safe and memorable summit. Keep your spirits high and your wine glasses even higher! Cheers, love and hugs!!!! Love you!!!!!
Posted by: Kathy Pearson on 7/2/2019 at 7:15 pm
This one’s for you meg…
One day a blonde is hiking in the woods. She follows the trail until she comes upon a river. As she is thinking how she can get across the river; another blonde appears on the opposite side.
The blonde yells to the other blonde “How do I get to the other side?”
The other blonde looks up and then down the river and yells back:
“You are on the other side!”
After a delicious Roadhouse breakfast and stories from the world famous Fairview Inn pre-party, the team has been busy sorting gear for the trip. The weather is beautiful right now and we're prepping to fly onto the mighty Kahiltna tomorrow morning. Until then we're enjoying solid earth under our feet, the smells of lush green plants in our noses and hearty meals in our bellies. Cheers from the RMI Knoff, Uchal and Blais team.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Hello! It’s Tyler,Eric and Logan checking in after a long day of work in Talkeetna.
Yesterday we had a sunny drive through the Alaskan scenery before arriving in Talkeetna in late evening. This completed a long day of travel from our various home bases to our soon to be new home on the “Great One”- Denali.
This morning the team met for breakfast at the Roadhouse Restaurant to officially start the program. After chatting about the day, we walked across the small town of Talkeetna to K2 Aviation. As planes took off and landed around us, the team spread out clothing and equipment in the airport hanger and consulted endless checklists. As we made our final gear selections, the hanger was buzzing with excitement.
After an afternoon break for pizza and salad, we all headed to the National Park Service headquarters for an orientation meeting. We chatted about the importance of keeping our impact low as we climb and live in the park for the next few weeks. After the orientation, we spent some time working on rigging sleds, setting up tents and building other skills.
At noon the hanger looked like a yard sale; clothing and gear scattered everywhere. By the time we left for dinner, all of our ducks were in a row. We now have duffels and packs neatly stacked in the front of the hanger. We are ready to go and eager to get on the glacier.
Skiing in Antarctica is not something I ever really thought I would do. I'm not sure anyone on our team thought they would get the opportunity for that matter.
But, this morning, the sun popped out from behind Vinson, bringing the temps to a reasonable level (perhaps zero?) and dropping the wind. A quick breakfast, some coffee, and we geared up to begin the day.
Our first foray was onto a small slope just above basecamp with some big crevasses and seracs. The team made some great turns in marginal snow, and had a lot of fun. By late afternoon, the sun had moved around, casting great shadows on some nice, big terrain across the valley from us. Splitting up, Peter, Caroline, and Seth went down to skin up a nice rib on the shoulder of the Branscomb, while Kent and I cruised up another hill to get in position to shoot.
Having shot only a little skiing before, I turned to Kent to help choose the right place to shoot. A veteran of many big ski shoots, he's quite the expert...the only difference being here in Antarctica there are no helicopters or Ski-Doo's to move us from place to place - only our own power.
So, we set up on a beautiful ridge, looking across an enormous valley with long shadows of the team skinning into position. Eventually, on cue, they dropped down some 1,000 feet, kicking up beautiful snow into the low, evening light. By then, it was 8:00 PM, and time to skin an hour back to camp and make dinner.
Only a couple of runs for the day, but the scenery, conditions, locale, and team couldn't be beat. We're all excited for tomorrow.
The July 24 - 27 Four Day Climb teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 6:30 am today led by RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Dustin Wittmier. Hannah reported good route conditions and perfect weather. The team enjoyed some time on top, crossing the crater to Columbia Crest. They began their descent from the crater rim just before 8 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a quick stop before continuing down to Paradise later this afternoon.
Nice work team! Congratulations on reaching the summit!
Climbers commonly joke that it’s either “freeze or fry” in the mountains. Some moments of a climb can feel like a winter ascent of Denali while others are more like the afternoon heat of a safari in Tanzania. Rarely do the temperatures in the mountains stay at a comfortable level. Even though we are often traveling on glaciers and permanent snowfields in the summer, the days can be hot - especially on the approaches to climbs. Yet, at higher elevations and in the dark hours of the night when we begin our ascents the temperature drops. Throw in a light breeze at 13,000’ and it’s downright cold.
While the temperature does indeed vary between bone chilling cold and bewildering heat, our goal as climbers is to manage those swings in temperature to keep ourselves at a comfortable, even level. Our bodies are pretty good at managing heat and most of us know how to do so well. Protecting ourselves from the intense sun of higher elevations and staying hydrated and replacing lost fluids is critical. It can be a challenge to carry enough water for an all-day climb and a good trick many climbers and guides use is to “pre-hydrate” beforehand by drinking lots of water while it is readily available and then rationing the water you have at your disposal throughout the day so that it will last. For example, climbing to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier typically takes about 5 hours with 4 breaks on the way. If you’re carrying 2 litres of water then aim to drink a ½ litre at each stop so that you are still hydrated on your last stretch of the day. Afterwards, re-fill your bottle and drink plenty of water to rehydrate and recover for the climb the next day.
The cold temperatures can have a negative effect on our performance as well by diverting the energy we have for the climb to keeping our bodies warm. Careful, conscious clothing choice is the best strategy to keeping your body at an even temperature level. It’s not uncommon to feel chilly around camp and add an extra layer when you begin climbing only to find yourself overheated in minutes. Then, when you stop for a water break all that perspiration cools and you find yourself shivering. Be strategic in your clothing choices when climbing, wearing the right amount of layers that you need to stay comfortable while climbing and adding layers at breaks to preserve that heat. A hat is great temperature regulator as it is easy to take on and off as needed without having to stop to take off your pack. The cold, dry air of high altitude also dehydrates you, making the need to stay hydrated all the more important.
As you head into the mountains, whether climbing or training, keep these strategies in mind. Begin hydrating before you hit the trail and keep an eye on how much water you have so that it will last throughout the day. Also, try to use the gear you plan to climb with in your training to experiment with different clothing layers and get a feel for the layers that work for you to maintain an even body temperature despite the changes in environment.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
Congratulations! A safe, healthy and successful climb! Let me leave you clients with a quote from my favorite guide.
“It’s not so much where you’ve been in the mountains that makes you successful, but what you find in yourself in the mountains that brings you success.” TNJ
All the best to all who climb!
Hello!
Mark Tucker checking in with an update from Tanzania, Africa. We are on our day one of the ascent of Mt. Kilimanjaro with RMI Expeditions. We started under clear skies and beautiful weather with a high temperature of close to 80 degrees throughout the day.
We arrived our Camp 1, Machame Camp, around 10,000’ and everybody is in good shape. Attitudes are very, very well. We just finished a nice chicken dinner and we are getting ready to crawl into our tents.
Being a clear evening, I anticipate that it will probably get down to about freezing maybe a little frost on the tents in the morning. But everybody’s gear is checking out and will be tucked into warm sleeping bags and we are looking forward to a good night’s rest. We are still a little tired from our flights from the US. Everyone is doing very well and excited to be here.
We will check in tomorrow with another update. All the best from Tanzania.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guide Mark Tucker checks in from Machame Camp on Kilimanjaro.
Happy birthday to your 50th’s from the EU Team! Hopefully you’ll be able to find a piece of cake of your way up today! (Who knows, maybe Scott brought some?)
All the best for you and the team for the way up!
Posted by: Daniel on 7/25/2012 at 11:34 pm
Hello Dennis, Eric and Milbraths,
We are glad to hear that everyone is safe and having a great time. We are sure that you are seeing some amazing sights. We’ll relive it with you when you share the many hours of video that will surely come back with you. ;-) Hope the Go-Pro’s hanging in there! Tomorrow sounds like a challenge - stay safe and enjoy. Love, Kim, Sarah & Danny
The last guided climb of the Denali 2012 season is done and down. Safe. But, without a summit, which happens sometimes. We got together in Talkeetna way back at the end of June—eight climbers and four guides—and we talked strategy and packed gear and we were issued permits. And, since the weather was a little sloppy, we didn’t fly immediately. Instead, we ate some more and drank some more and talked a bit more strategy. But on the 29th of June, we did get to fly into the Alaska Range and of course it was worth the wait.
As is always the case in late season, we’d been concerned as to how well put-together the lower glacier might be, but a few minutes flight over the Kahiltna in a de Havilland Otter convinced us it had been a good year for snow. Once on the ground (7,200 feet on the Southest Fork of the Kahiltna) we reviewed glacier travel techniques and waited for the middle of the night so as to allow the glacier surface to freeze solid. It did just that and we moved out early the next morning. We made pretty decent progress those first days… camp at 7,800 feet, move to 9,500 feet, migrate on up to 11,000 feet. As always, we started doing “carries” at 11,000 feet… climbing high and sleeping low so as to let our bodies catch up to the altitude. The gang was healthy and doing great and the weather was workable… if not stable. It was snowy and cloudy somewhere each and every day… just not exactly on top of us, and so we were able to make good use of the days.
The mountain got a lot more interesting as we left the valleys and ventured up onto the ridges on our move to Genet Basin at 14,200 feet. We “caught up” to about a dozen guide parties from other companies there and everybody was still optimistic about climbing high and making the top. We’d been on the mountain for a week at that point. But it started snowing. And then it seriously started snowing. Teams began to run out of food and fuel and quit the mountain. Then it snowed about two feet in 24 hours and we had an avalanche problem. The problem was that we believed there was instability on the steep slopes we needed to climb up in order to make any progress and there was no solution but to wait for stability. Which didn’t come.
We needed hot, sunny days to settle the problem and instead we got day after day of a little more cloud, snow and wind. Teams quit and descended… one after another. Finally, we teamed up with the last two guided parties on the hill to bust trail and evaluate hazard and perhaps find a way to the “fixed ropes” leading to the crest of the West Buttress. The mission took all day and required some dicey belays across “whumping” snow, but it resulted in a workable and safe track to the ropes… we were back in business. Until it snowed that night and the next morning.
Back at square one with a new hazard and no track. The other guided teams quit the mountain that day and we stayed another two days in a last attempt at getting some sort of good luck. But that didn’t come, just more snow and more clouds and more predictions for snow and clouds. We spent about 12 days at 14,200 feet and then we turned our backs on the summit and started busting trail down through the powder. Things got easier as we got lower on the mountain and we were at the SE Fork again by morning of our 19th day on the hill. And the weather cleared magnificently then… allowing a view of the summit we hadn’t reached, but also making the flight off possible.
Showers and dinners and drinks and beds in Talkeetna were pretty good, even without a summit. We’ll get it next time.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Despite stormy conditions, a small summit climb team reached the summit today led by Brent Okita. The team did not linger on the summit before beginning their descent at 8:00 a.m. The climbs are back to Paradise and are currently on their way to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford.
Congratulations!
YAYYY JULIA! We are so proud of you!!! You inspire us everyday and we know you’ve worked so hard for this
Posted by: Adora, Joseph, & Aku on 8/11/2024 at 6:53 pm
Congratulations to the whole team and a huge Thank You to the guides who helped them stay safe and encouraged them along the way! Most people just dream of things they would like to do, but this group persevered and lived their dream. It’s an experience they will never forget! Natalie, Allison, and team members, you are rockstars!!
Posted by: Geri on 8/11/2024 at 6:24 pm
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