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Today the team explored the city of St. Petersburg, including a beautiful evening canal tour complete with dramatic sunset and hilarious narration from our tour guide. Tomorrow the team disbands, departing in the direction of our various homes or next destinations. A big thanks to everyone for coming together and bringing your A-game to this Mt. Elbrus Ski Expedition. Till next time... RMI Guide Tyler Reid

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Uchal and Five Day Summit Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier after a 6 1/2 hour ascent. Mike Uchal reports sunny, beautiful weather and a busy route. The teams are en route back to Camp Muir, and will be back at RMI Basecamp later today. Congratulations to today's teams!

I'd intended to wake the climbing team at 2 AM for their final day on Denali, but folks were snoring so hard at that hour that it seemed kinder to wait until three. Besides, our camp at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier was blanketed with cloud and I didn't figure the snow surface had frozen up. But at three, the clouds began to flee and the snow got crusty, making sled-pulling and crevasse-crossing vastly easier and safer. We ate a hot breakfast, knocked down the tents and hit the trail at 5:15. There actually was a trail since a West Rib team had gone out the evening before, plowing an easy-to-follow groove in what had then been soft snow. After weeks of telling the team how tricky it could be to get through the lower glacier in mid-July, I was almost embarrassed that our task had become so simple. As we cruised along in the early morning shadows it was something of a surprise to realize that we were finding better bridges and fewer open crevasses than on our way in. The constant snowstorms that kept us from climbing high had greatly improved conditions down low. We made it to the Southeast Fork in just a couple of hours and began a slow walk up "Heartbreak Hill". The last of the clouds seemed to evaporate, leaving us in bright sunshine and giving us excellent views of Mount Hunter and Mount Foraker. By 9:30 AM we were unclipping our carabiners and shaking hands at the "upper strip". Since it was the first clear day over the Alaska Range in some time and there was a lot of flying to be done, we had to wait our turn for a pickup. But waiting was pretty easy in such wonderful conditions... we rolled out sleeping pads and napped, threw snowballs, and nibbled at the last delicacies in what -until then- had been our carefully rationed lunch food. K2 Aviation landed two beautiful DeHaviland Otters at precisely 4 PM. Fifteen minutes later we slid down the runway and off the mountain that had been our home for 19 days. The flight out in perfect summer weather -our first of the trip- was spectacular. A million shades of green dazzled our eyes as we left the mountains and neared Talkeetna. Then it was a few frenzied hours of drying and sorting gear in the hot sunshine. With the chores done, we got to the pleasant and easy hours of celebrating over a fine dinner at the West Rib Pub. And finally there was the obligatory visit to The Fairview where open mike night was already in progress. Our Norwegian teammate, Frode, took the stage and had the big stuffed animal heads rocking off the walls with his thundering rendition of Hootchie Cootchie Man. And that was how our Denali climb ended... Without a summit, but with a lot of laughter and twelve new friends. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

The Denali Expedition May 25, 2021 led by RMI Guides Mike King, Alex Halliday and Abby Westling arrived in Anchorage on Tuesday, May 25th.  The team made their way to Talkeenta with a stop for groceries and fresh food to fly with them onto the mountain.  Once in Talkeetna they sorted and packed gear, met with the National Park Service and prepared to begin their adventure on Denali.  The forecast for Wednesday evening looked to have a break in the weather that would allow them to fly to Kahiltna Base Camp.  And sure enough, the team loaded up in the K2 Aviation Twin Otters and headed into the mountains around 5 pm local time.

It started out like Groundhog Day as we got out to start the stoves.... socked in with clouds and light falling snow... 14,200 camp was in the soup. I joked to the gang at breakfast that there certainly wouldn't be any climbing on this day (admittedly a lame joke on the heels of so many non-climbing days). We took a few enjoyable extra minutes at breakfast since the weather was so poor outside the POSH tent. It seemed a good time to read out the comments posted on the blog (and cut and pasted into a message for us by the RMI office). We all got laughing and forgot about the storm and then a funny thing happened. We unzipped the tent, walked outside and the storm was gone. There was the usual sea of clouds just below us, but only calm, blue skies above. Within a few minutes, a plan was hatched to team up with the other guided teams at 14,200, to get the climb leaders up in the direction of those suspect slopes and to determine once again just how suspect they still were. Mountain Trip sent two guides, Alaska Mountaineering School sent three, and Tim and I went to represent RMI. Meanwhile Cody and Solveig conducted a course in ropework and belay techniques for the gang in camp. Those of us on the survey mission found ways to keep getting higher without taking unreasonable risks. It took all day long and a few mini-conferences as to the best way to proceed -we traded off the honor of being out front where trailbreaking and risk evaluation were both essential and intense jobs. By late afternoon we felt we had a good understanding of the snowpack and where we could and couldn't go. We agreed that it was reasonable to try busting through the last couple hundred feet of snow to reach the fixed ropes. We took a cautious approach, setting up good anchors and a protected belay station, since by this point we were dealing with a fairly steep slope, crevasses, and all that recent snow we've been moaning and groaning about for days. It all paid off as we reached the security of the ropes without incident. We knew we finally had a safe route to take our teams climbing toward the West Buttress in the morning. Which is just what we'll do if the weather cooperates. Having reached about 15,500 ft in elevation, it was a thrill to ramble down the "safe trail" at flank speed and spread the good news to our climbers. We still need plenty of luck, and there still may be insurmountable obstacles between us and the summit, but at least we finally get to go looking for them. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

What a day! A team meeting over breakfast followed by our park service orientation was just the beginning. The real work started at the hanger of our flight service, K2 Aviation. It was here that the tedium of going thru our gear, both personal and group stuff will pay off hugely when we get to the mountain and are stuck with the equipment we've chosen. REI has yet to set up shop on the Kahiltna Glacier. As we wind down the day a great meal sits in our bellies and we look forward to a final night luxuriating in a real bed where a hot shower and toilet lie but a few carpeted paces away. Tomorrow will be different! With luck we'll be flying onto the glacier at 9:00am to start our trip... One that we have all been working so hard and dreaming about for so long. And we start it as a group of individuals already well on our way to being a team of climbers and, more importantly, friends. I know that we're all excited to get under way. I know too that I'm excited to climb with this very impressive group. Well, all for now from the cozy little town of Talkeetna. RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

Last week was RMI's March Expedition Skills Seminar-Winter. Like every month from January to April, a team of intrepid climbers looking to learn the beauty of winter mountaineering, ventured up the slopes of Mt. Rainier on this, our classic six-day winter program. Guides Adam Knoff, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt and myself, Elías de Andrés, enjoyed the company of a dozen folks, who initally were welcomed by a characteristic March day; rain in town, snow and wind up high. Our orientation day in Ashford would include a thorough evaluation of the forecast, a task that is, regardless, part of this program's curriculum. But in this case, with a close look at a promising improving trend which would keep us excited for the remaining of the day. The next morning, with packs ready and boots laced up, we headed into the park not without a delay due to the National Park's snow plows hard work to keep the road to Paradise open to individuals like us. Upon arriving to Paradise we rigged our equipment for the hike to what would be our first camp. Atop Marmot Hill, we built a fortified settlement "Denali style" for the evening. A "posh house" tent was erected to socialize at dinner time, just like on any expedition, really. It was a new sight for many in the group, which by now were enjoying expedition life barely 500ft above the parking lot. Our hike to Muir started as we waved good bye to a weatherfront that had wiped western Washington for a few days, but not without great team effort breaking trail for most of the remaining 4,000 vertical feet to Camp Muir. Enjoying the clearest skies possible, our climbers who'd arrived from all parts of the country could make out in the horizon the central Oregon volcanoes of Mt. Hood and Jefferson without even squinting. To the north, some avalanches, along with ice and rock fall from the Nisqually Ice Cliff, reminded us of the interactions between the new loaded glaciers the spring-like sun of this day. The next 36 hours would continue to add to the tool kit the climbers were building for future expeditions and also, in order to face, of course, a potential climb the following day as the high pressure system was supposed to last for at least three days. Muir Peak, the AAA Gully, the Cowlitz Glacier... all provided, in the vicinity of Camp Muir, a perfect training ground. In the morning of Thursday, March 13th, we woke up to yet another incredible day; clear skies had been swiped of clouds by the same winds that windblasted some of the upper slopes... as well as loaded others. Careful evaluation by the guides on the go, determined a safe, wind-scoured route up the west side of the Ingraham Glacier, a seldom traveled route almost hugging Gibraltar Rock on its east side. Once at Camp Comfort, trail breaking efforts would begin again, and as the team team held it together, we were getting closer to the top in sometimes mid-calf deep snow on the now, more lower angled sections of the climb. After 6 hours and 50 minutes of ascent, the team reached the crater rim to the now strengthening winds. But a new winter summit had been attained by another successful RMI Winter Skills Seminar team. Our careful preparation to detail, our philosophy in approaching the mountain, the guidance of the leaders and the great application of the skills learned by the climbers allowed the feat... the RMI way! The next day, in a deja vu of what winter is truly like, we woke up to one-foot tall spindrifts and gusts of over 70mph at Camp Muir. Most of the guides, including myself, couldn't remember such conditions on the snowfield. Far away from feeling accomplished by the previous day's achievement, successfully navigating down to Paradise in such white-out conditions demanded now serious skill and perseverance. A team of now well-trained climbers, learned their last lesson of this winter seminar; the summit is only back at the car. Three hours later we'd bypass the remains of our camp on day 1, and as the winds decreased at 6,000ft and visibility came back to reasonable, we reached the Paradise parking lot. Celebratory drinks and a dinner over future climbing plans with the climbers was the perfect closure to a week on the frigid, yet amazing environment of winter on Mt. Rainier. Come play, climb and learn with RMI! Satisfaction guaranteed. Elías de Andrés RMI Senior Guide

Yesterday’s climb of Paqueño Alpamayo provided a full-value introduction to climbing in the Cordillera Real. A 2:30 AM and a short walk on trail brought us back to the toe of the glacier where we’d trained the day prior. We dawned our climbing gear and began working our way up the icy glacier. Each step sounded like shards of glass underfoot and required careful technique to move efficiently and securely. 

We reached the summit of Tarija shortly after sunrise, the first summit of the trip at 17,500’! The views of Huyana Potosi, our next objective, were excellent, and we could see the remainder of the route to Paqueño Alpamayo. This is where the challenge of Paqeño becomes apparent, the route really throws a little bit of everything at you! First, we descended several hundred feet of third- and fourth-class rock, followed shortly by two pitches of 45-60 degree ice up the west ridge. 

Sadly, the effects of climate change are painfully obvious in the Andes, and this peak was no different. What used to be a final pitch of steep neve below the summit is now entirely snow-free, so we removed our crampons and scrambled the final 200’ or so to the top. After a short celebration it was time to start making our way down, we still had a long day ahead of us before we could relax in camp! Some steep down climbing and a short rappel led back to the base of the east ridge of Tarija we’d descended earlier. The rock scramble back up to the summit effectively made for three summits over 5000m over the course of just a few hours! 

The descent back down the glacier was slow and a bit tedious at times given the icy conditions, but we were riding high from such an engaging and beautiful day of climbing. Everyone slept well last night after our big day. We are back at the trailhead now loading up the van to begin making our way to the base of Huyana Potosi. We’ll sleep in the base hut tonight and move up to a higher hut around 16,900’ tomorrow. After several nights sleeping up high and a big day of climbing yesterday the team is feeling stronger than ever in the thin air and we’re all looking forward to our next summit attempt on Monday! 

RMI Guides Andy Bond, Henry Coppolillo

Hello this is Jake checking in from Mexico. We are at Piedra Grande, the hut on Pico de Orizaba. After a day of rest in Puebla, we took off for Tlachichuca early this morning. After meeting with Dr. Reyes at his family's climber hostile we took four wheel drive vehicles up to the hut. We are turning in early to prepare for our climb tonight. It is a little cloudy right now but other than that conditions are pretty good. The peak comes out now and again and we are hoping things clear out for our climb tomorrow. Wish us luck! We will call in tomorrow. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

The RMI Expedition to Vinson Massif began January 1, 2011 as the team members and guides departed the U.S. in route to Punta Arenas, Chile. The team is led by led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs, Seth Waterfall and Caroline George. Today they met with staff from Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions for an orientation about life on the ice. The itinerary is for the group to fly to Antarctica tomorrow but it looks like the weather is good and thus the team is readying for a departure as early as this evening (10 pm Chilean time). The big Ilyushin 76 has been loaded with gear, food and supplies. Everything the team will need for their ascent of Vinson Massif. If the weather remains good down on the ice, the team may be in the air in just a few hours!