The Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier September 7 - 9 team made their summit attempt this morning but were turned back due to extremely wet conditions. The team returned to their High Camp and was going to take a bit of time to dry out. Later today they will continue their descent to the trailhead and conclude their program.
Spring came very early in Aspen, CO this year, with the last two weeks bringing 75 degree temps almost daily. Monday, Aspen based guides Lindsay Mann and Pete Van Deventer decided to take a break from spring skiing conditions to start getting into rock climbing shape for the summer. Independence Pass, just outside of Aspen, was warm, dry, and provides an ideal training ground, with a plethora of trad and sport cragging routes. Despite a relatively small snow year in Aspen, both Lindsay and Pete have had a lot of days of skiing and ski touring that have prepped them well for upcoming May Denali climbs. Monday was a great day to take a break from skiing, catch some sun, and get comfortable on rocks again!
Dave, Sara and Linden descended from Camp 2 in nice weather only to have the last half hour to Base Camp turn into a snow zone. Base Camp has remained in and out of snow showers all day. The climbers are doing well, enjoying the thick air of 17,575' and getting into the rest and eating routine. Bill could not be happier with Sara now back at Base Camp.
Our Sherpa team continues to prepare the upper camps for the summit bid. Lam Babu carried a load from Base Camp to Camp 2 today. Tsering, Dawa and Kaji were up early at Camp 2 with plans to carry to the South Col but due to snow and poor visibility they remained at Camp 2. They will take a look at it again tomorrow and hopefully we'll have a nice report from the climbing team tomorrow.
Many other teams are leaving Base Camp today beginning their push for the summit. We wish them well!
Today marks the twenty-first anniversary of my summit of Mount Everest. (Mark reached Everest's summit on May 10th, 1990 as a member of Jim Whittaker's Peace Climb along with climbers from Russia and China via the North East Ridge. Happy anniversary Tuck!)
Till next time,
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Bill and Sara:
Please know that the Egan family has been tracking your progress everyday and we are all overwhelmed with admiration and pride!It is hard to believe that while we sit here in Atlanta getting ready for exams, you are at the top of the world. Sara, Chas says hi and he and all of the boys are cheering you on! We are thinking of you both everyday. Good luck, be safe and God Bless. The Egans
Posted by: Mindy, Mike and Chas Egan on 5/11/2011 at 7:30 am
Jambo from Barranco Camp,
Everybody did extremely well today on our move to Barranco Camp. It was the longest and hardest day so far of the trek, but the team was more than up for the challenge. We started at 12,500' this morning, with clear skies and a magnificent view of the mountain. But this was short lived as the clouds soon took over and stuck with us for the rest of the day. We even had a little rain as we approached Lava Tower Camp, our high point for the day at 15,200'. The clouds parted briefly so we could see Lava Tower and a glimpse of the Western Breach Wall. But more important than the view, was the fact the team was strong and handled the altitude well. It was downhill from here and we made great time descending down almost 2,500', the entire amount of elevation we had spent the better part of our morning climbing up. But that is why today is so important for our acclimatization, and will pay big rewards on our summit day.
Tomorrow we tackle the Barranco Wall, and will check in from Karanga Camp.
A few comments from the Team -
Cal and Grayson - We will not fail.
Pam, Jaiden, and Carson - Miss you and love you.
Susan, Jennifer, and Craig - Still standing
RMI Guide Jeff Martin & Team Simba Sita
In Lukla, roughly eight thousand vertical feet below our Everest Basecamp home of the past three weeks, we were pretty comfortable. But just for one night. The team was awake by five am yesterday, eating by 5:30 and walking over to the airport check-in at six. We watched -partly in awe, partly in horror- as Twin Otters, Dorniers and A-Stars roared in and out of the compact one acre loading and unloading zone, pirouetting into place, revving engines, disgorging trekkers, cases of beer and heavy bags of rice at a frenetic pace. When summoned by frantic hand gestures, we shouldered our packs, walked out onto the tarmac and took over the seats in a Twin.
A few minutes later, we were in the air, over a few craggy passes and cruising toward Kathmandu. Upon landing, we were no-longer climbers, or even would-be climbers, we were happily transformed to overdressed tourists. As such we took off a few layers and began showering, shaving and eating eating eating.
Although we are still far from home, the program is finished. We continue to enjoy each other's company, we still rely on one another to make sense of the sad events and unexpected turns our trip has taken. The team is grateful that so many have followed our journey on the blog and offered up kind words and support.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Watching the Discovery Channel broadcast on the Avalanche. Thank you Dave, Mark & team!
Posted by: Susan on 5/4/2014 at 7:13 pm
Dave - We’ve been thinking about you guys every day for the past two weeks. Glad to hear everything is well with you. There will be many more days to climb. Stay safe.
Our Sherpa climbing team went up through the Khumbu Icefall a final time early this morning. The rest of us sat out in the warm sunshine and continued the packing process as we watched the glacier and listened to our radios. It was great to relax, and to be safe, but of course that relaxation wasn't complete until Lam Babu brought the entire team down from Camp One with the final loads. Then the day passed slowly and easily, listening to avalanches and rocks falling off the surrounding peaks. Helicopters buzzed the camp incessantly, either capturing the last film footage of "Basecamp 2013" or looking for riders with VISA cards. Summer is coming to the Himalaya and the forecasts tell us the monsoon is only a few days off. There are still climbing teams on the mountain, but the vast majority have finished and gone home. Tents and puja flags were coming down in every direction today and strings of yaks and porters were taking everything down-valley. Trekkers quit coming around about a week ago as weather down low shifted to cloudy mode. We'll leave base tomorrow and the remaining team will collapse the camp in our wake. It seems hard to believe that we've lived in this place for seven weeks now... That will have to be enough for this year. We'll just hope to hang on to the spectacular imagery and the sense of camaraderie we've built up through the experience. Thank you for following the expedition.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Way to go Seth. I’m proud for you and the entire team - Jon.
Posted by: Jon Keith on 6/17/2013 at 7:05 pm
AWESOME AND WONDERFUL JOB…YOU ALL DO AMAZING WORK…I LOOK FORWARD TO MEETING AND SOMEDAY BEING ON THE TEAM…THANKS FOR BEING EPIC DAVE…SUPERMAN ON THE MOUNTAIN…GODS BEST AND ENJOY ...AIRYSWE
Hey Everybody Billy calling in with another dispatch this time for the 4th of July. Happy Independence Day everyone back home! Hope you guys are celebrating properly with barbecues and blowing things up as it typical custom. Not so much of that here in Ecuador. We actually left the Chilcabamba Eco Lodge this morning and headed up to the Jose Ribas Refugio. The team is getting settled in we had a great dinner and we are looking forward to that first rough night at a new elevation. Hopefully the team will do well and make it through the night. Tomorrow we plan to head out and do a little training as we continue to acclimatize and get prepped for our big summit push.
We will call and check in tomorrow after our training day and let you know you how we did. Again, Happy Independence Day to everyone back home.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and Team.
The Four Day Climb August 6 - 9 led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Joe Hoch were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The lenticular cloud over the mountain brought snow and winds and the teams reached 13,400' before deteriorating weather encouraged them to turn around. The climbers will return to Camp Muir for a quick stop before continuing to Paradise this afternoon.
We expected weather to move in last night, but it was definitely windier than we thought it was going to be. Thankfully we had a strong camp built up and, besides waking us up throughout the night, the gusts really caused us no issue.
We hoped to break down camp early and get moving up the main fork of the Kahiltna, but it didn’t make sense to risk losing a tent breaking down camp in the wind. The sun stayed out for most of the morning, so we just sat around hiding from the wind and playing two truths and a lie until about noon. By this point, the wind had died down significantly so we decided to pack up and venture out to find a new home. We left camp around 2pm, walked downhill onto the main fork of the Kahiltna glacier, and turned north. We had scattered clouds and moderate winds, keeping the temperature comfortably cool. In full sun and light winds, it can be uncomfortably hot on the Kahiltna, so we welcomed our all-natural A/C.
Setting up camp just north of Mount Crosson took no time at all. Everybody is a pro by now. We’re all in our tents now hiding from the wind again. There are plenty of climbing objectives in our new neighborhood, but we’ll just see what the weather allows.
So happy to get to follow the adventures through your blog posts. Sounds like a continuous balance of learning, practicing and relaxing with the company of the team.
Posted by: Melanee Strootman on 5/28/2021 at 6:42 pm
Well, we barely snuck in a move today from Aconcagua Camp 1 to Camp 2 before the wind started a blowin' and the snow started a snowin'. Fortunately, everyone is tucked away in their tents hydrating, breathing, and getting used to life at 18,000 feet. We are all glad to be here; it feels like the upper mountain is finally within reach. More tomorrow!
RMI Guide Ben Liken
WOW! In awe of your achievement. I have trouble walking the small hills of NEPA.
Not the little girl I remember anymore!
Watching you in awe! Best wishes and travels to you and the team! Stay safe
Posted by: Janet Yontas on 2/10/2017 at 4:19 pm
For ,Dave & Kelly. You are on the cusp of an achievement realized by so few yet admired by many. You climb for more than yourselves. We’re all up there with you and even breathing heavey even at 1500 ft.
Posted by: Nick Lazzareschi on 2/10/2017 at 3:49 pm
Happy 21st Tuck!
Posted by: Steve Evans on 5/11/2011 at 9:43 am
Bill and Sara:
Please know that the Egan family has been tracking your progress everyday and we are all overwhelmed with admiration and pride!It is hard to believe that while we sit here in Atlanta getting ready for exams, you are at the top of the world. Sara, Chas says hi and he and all of the boys are cheering you on! We are thinking of you both everyday. Good luck, be safe and God Bless. The Egans
Posted by: Mindy, Mike and Chas Egan on 5/11/2011 at 7:30 am
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