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Vinson Massif: The Team Enjoys a Rest Day

We rolled out of the tents at 11:30 AM to find another perfect day. Calm, sunny and clear, just the way we like things. This was our well-earned rest day and we took full advantage. A leisurely breakfast primed the team for a mid-day nap, which was followed by the mid-afternoon nap and the early evening nap. The goal of it all was to prepare for a few tough days to come up high on the mountain. Everybody did their best to catch up on hydration and calories. Billy Nugent and Seth Waterfall rested by spinning on down to basecamp and returning with fuel and other supplies in a tight five hour round trip. Thanksgiving dinner was held under our festive blue and white POSH tent. Chicken and noodles with all the trimmings. We'll be even more thankful if this fine weather continues. Best regards to all back at home. RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team
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First Full Day In Lhasa

Today the team explored Lhasa mostly on foot. Just a short walk for our hotel is the Barkhor Square and Barkhor street market. This is where most Tibetans buy and sell their handmade goods, local vegetables, and just about anything else you can think of. We managed to find a few good deals, but not after some tough bargaining. After our shopping extravaganza we headed off to lunch. We found a nice little local spot not far from the hotel and had fun trying to order in English even though no one understood us. However, the food was great! The next few hours were spent visiting the beautiful Potala Palace. It was built between the 7th and the 13th centuries and had been the home of the Dalai Lama's until 1959. You don't have to be Buddhist or even religious to understand the sacred meaning this place has to the Tibetan people. I believe everyone was truly moved by just the presence of it. Walking through it was like stepping back into time. We could all sense the spiritualism and were thankful to have an opportunity to see it. If you would like to get a feel for what it is like, I suggest renting the movie "Seven years in Tibet."
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Kahiltna Seminar: Gorum & Team Move Camp near Mount Crosson

Friday, May 28, 2021 - 1:04pm PT

We expected weather to move in last night, but it was definitely windier than we thought it was going to be. Thankfully we had a strong camp built up and, besides waking us up throughout the night, the gusts really caused us no issue.

We hoped to break down camp early and get moving up the main fork of the Kahiltna, but it didn’t make sense to risk losing a tent breaking down camp in the wind. The sun stayed out for most of the morning, so we just sat around hiding from the wind and playing two truths and a lie until about noon. By this point, the wind had died down significantly so we decided to pack up and venture out to find a new home. We left camp around 2pm, walked downhill onto the main fork of the Kahiltna glacier, and turned north. We had scattered clouds and moderate winds, keeping the temperature comfortably cool. In full sun and light winds, it can be uncomfortably hot on the Kahiltna, so we welcomed our all-natural A/C.

Setting up camp just north of Mount Crosson took no time at all. Everybody is a pro by now. We’re all in our tents now hiding from the wind again. There are plenty of climbing objectives in our new neighborhood, but we’ll just see what the weather allows.

RMI Guides JM Gorum & Team

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So happy to get to follow the adventures through your blog posts. Sounds like a continuous balance of learning, practicing and relaxing with the company of the team.

Posted by: Melanee Strootman on 5/28/2021 at 6:42 pm


Chris Ebeling reflects on his AMGA ski guide course

Standing in the Taggert Lake parking lot of Grand Teton National Park, we gather for one of the last morning guide meetings of our AMGA Ski Guide Course. Everybody smiles and chuckles as our meeting leader reads the weather report. Over the last 9 days we have received over 80 inches of snow containing more than 8 inches of water equivalency. The avalanche forecast is high and predicted to hit extreme after a rain event starts this evening. We all talk about dialing back our terrain choices…way back. This storm has been relentless for many days, altering our objectives, creating whiteout conditions to navigate, forcing meticulous terrain selection, and making for some great skiing. We have all learned many tools for creating a positive and safe mountain experience amidst a dangerous snowpack. Today we talk about our tour plan, a planned route up a 3000 vertical foot feature in Grand Teton National Park. Through mapping tools, some math, and a little technology, we know what we're getting into and have a plan to manage the risks. We talk about who will take the lead for our group on each climb and each descent, as well as our pacing, timing, emergency plans, equipment, and weather forecast. We break our meeting, beacons checked, skins on, click in, it's time to go skiing!

AMGA Ski Guide Course - Jackson 2017 from Chris Ebeling on Vimeo.

In February with the help of the RMI guide grant I attended this 12-day AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Ski Guide Course in Jackson, Wyoming. This is the second course in the four courses and exams that lead to becoming a certified AMGA ski guide. The course covers numerous factors of guiding in the winter environment. Managing terrain, instruction and modeling, and putting clients in the safest, best snow is the primary focus of our techniques on the down. Creating efficient tracks, navigation, and terrain selection is a big focus of our time guiding the climb. We cover many technical factors as well, including adding security in 3rd class terrain using our rope, technical lowers and rappels into steep ski terrain, crevasse rescue on skis, travel with an improvised emergency sled, and construction of winter emergency shelters. Discussing possible terrain choices Many thanks to RMI and the RMI guide grant for their financial and mentorship support. Another big thanks to our instructors Christian Santelices and Rob Hess for their dedication to growing the professionalism of our guiding community. _____ Chris Ebeling has been guiding with RMI since 2015. He grew up in the Northwest, climbing, skiing, and riding around Oregon and Washington before making the move to the Northern Rockies of Montana. He returned from Montana to join RMI, but still returns to Montana to explore the remote corners of his home range during the winter.
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Mt. Rainier: August 7th Teams Turn at 13,200’

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Nikki Champion climbed into a cloud cap with rain and wind, this forced the team turned at 13,200' on Mt. Rainier. Despite turning before the summit due to weather, the sunrise at the top of the cleaver was very rewarding!

The team is back at Camp Muir and will be descending soon. 

Congratulations Team!

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Howard and howie so amazing and your awesome. Get back down safely

Posted by: Favorite sister and Jim on 8/7/2021 at 10:32 am

Congratulations to all the climbers!

Posted by: Katie on 8/7/2021 at 9:57 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Team Summits

Hey Everyone,

Our team reached the summit at 8:30 am this morning via the Emmons route, and we were back at Camp Schurman at 1:48 pm. Gorgeous views and a beautiful sunrise!  We will finish our training and head downhill tomorrow. 

RMI Guide Taylor Bickford

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Rester Day

Friday, June 28, 2019 - 8:01 PM PT The 2nd rest/weather/waiting day was even restier than the first. The team is hanging in there and we really hope to head uphill tomorrow. Here are the individual team members best ways to spend their rest days: Ian - eat, sleep, and be merry Wayne - napping! Zach - reading Kerry - texting colleagues about weather forecast and thinking of family! Meghan - Hosting a 14k ft charcuterie and Gummi bear party outside my tent (eat it now or have to carry it down later). Was a hit! Ann - building a snowman, checking return dates of caches around the camp, thinking if I have enough probiotics to handle the spicy dinners

On The Map

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Side salad and her meat platters. When is she sharing the wine!?!? Go guys, go!

Posted by: Shannon Henn on 6/30/2019 at 12:32 am

Rest while you can. Cool tent photo! Step safe

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/29/2019 at 9:54 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Hanging Tough at 17,000’ Camp

June 15, 2017 Hello from 17 Camp, this is Jake Beren calling in for RMI's Denali team. We woke this morning to high winds up high and quite cold temps again. So we decided to pump the brakes and cross our fingers for tomorrow. Sorry to sound like a broken record, but we are hoping to give her a go tomorrow. So that's it from 17 Camp, a little bit more of the same, but we're all happy, healthy and hanging tough up here. So we'll give her a shot tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Bye. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from 17,000 ft on Denali.

On The Map

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Lindsay, it’s unfortunate that you could not summit ... I would still think that the journey to 17K was an amazing experience anyways. There is always another time!

Posted by: Manish on 6/17/2017 at 5:38 am

Cheryl so sorry to hear that you weren’t able to summit but I’m sure this has been a very unforgettable experience. Wishing you a safe trip home and can’t wait to see you.

Posted by: Jo on 6/16/2017 at 4:43 pm


Mt. Baker: Easton Glacier Team Reaches Summit

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the Four Day Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier July 15 - 18 team reached the summit at 3:15 pm today with 100% of their crew.  They enjoyed their time on the summit and will return to camp for their final night on the mountain.

Nice work team!

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Mt. Rainier: July 3, 2013 SUMMIT!

The Five Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Andres Marin reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Win Whittaker had a great climb but were unable to reach the summit. The teams reported clear skies, some light winds, and pleasant temperatures.The teams are on their way to Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp to celebrate this afternoon. After a successful summit yesterday and a week of training the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons will be returning to Rainier Basecamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!


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