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Mt. Everest Expedition: Team Climbs Kalapathar, Sherpas to Camp 2 and Back

The day started pretty early for Lam Babu and the Sherpa squad. They were putting on crampons at 4 AM and getting busy with the Khumbu Icefall as daylight came on. The five men were passing Camp One by around 6:30 and carrying their loads on up toward Camp 2 (Advanced Basecamp or ABC). The rest of us were just getting up and enjoying a calm morning at EBC, happy that the storm of the past couple of days seems to have fled. Great day for another hike, as it turned out. We went for a slightly farther goal today, if not exactly higher. Kalapathar is around 18,300 ft and we'd beaten that the other day on Pumori Camp One, but for KP we needed to descend farther, pretty much to the village of Gorak Shep. So the overall altitude gain, including having to climb all the way back up to Basecamp afterward, was greater. Exactly what the doctor ordered... more exercise at altitude, more great views. Kalapathar is actually not a mountain summit in its own right. It is more properly about as high as you can reasonably go in trail shoes on the start of one of Pumori's insanely steep ridges. But it is perfectly positioned to gain views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse, not to mention Pumori. And it is popular. We were in the mainstream of trekker and climber and porter traffic again, and things are definitely getting busy now. Just walking through Basecamp takes us a good twenty minutes and we are only going through about two thirds of camp (since we live in the upper third). But it turned out to be a wonderful day and we even had the top of Kalapathar to ourselves -for a few minutes, at least. We were able to keep in communication with the Sherpa team and were pleased to hear that they were all back down to base by about noon. A monumental effort, all safely accomplished. So now, although we don't have tents up yet at either place (no sense putting them up any earlier than necessary, the wind would just take them down) we have Camps One and Two established. The team is working steadily up toward the goal of safely taking on the Icefall. The route to Camp One is steep, technically difficult, dangerous and at high altitude... So if it seems like we are going out of our way to be ready for that first time through... We are. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Following your journey is a thrill. I am truly inspired . All the best. KEEP CLIMBING !!!!!!!!!!!
Harry

Posted by: Harry Ratliff on 4/15/2013 at 10:33 am

WOW…majestic from my vantage point, can’t imagine how powerful for all of you.  Continued safe travels and success!!!

Posted by: Randy Lipton on 4/13/2013 at 10:26 am


Mt. McKinley: Dave Hahn and Team Ready in Talkeenta

We've finished one of the more challenging days of any Denali climbing expedition... Packing, sorting gear and generally getting organized for leaving Talkeetna and getting on the mountain. It wasn't all hard work and suffering though, we certainly enjoyed a great breakfast at the Roadhouse. National Park Service personnel at the Talkeetna Ranger Station gave us a warm welcome and Joe Reichert delivered a fine and informative orientation slideshow. Our flight team out at K2 Aviation made us feel right at home in their hangar, which was where we got our food, tents, stoves, ropes, pots, shovels, fuel, snow saws, snow shoes, packs, ice axes, boots, crampons, sleeping bags, etc, etc, and etc. ready. Finally, we'd earned a break and a relaxing dinner at The West Rib Pub. Folks then drifted home early for a last comfy night in the Talkeetna Motel. The plan is for the team to meet bright and early for breakfast and then to hustle on out to the airstrip... If all goes well and the weather is stable, we could be loading airplanes shortly after 8AM and then winging our way toward the Alaska Range. RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

To my son Brian, Have a safe and happy climbing adventure! I am keeping you and the team in my daily prayers. (Inez read the blog to me, and it sounds like an exciting trip!)Love always, Mom

Posted by: Mom Bulatao on 6/30/2012 at 3:20 pm

Good Luck everyone!!

Tell Dr. Kelliher his A-Track students are sending him (and the whole team) love!

We will be tracking the journey

=)

Posted by: Jenni Lentenbrink on 6/28/2012 at 10:50 pm


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Westling & Team Summit Orizaba

A summit success early this morning on Pico de Orizaba! Most of our team stood at 18,491 feet a little after sunrise, soaking in the views after a tough climb at high altitude. 

It was a long last day in the mountains, but spirits were high as we descended to Tlachichuca where we enjoyed the comforts of the small town.  

Our final night together as a team was spent sharing stories from the mountain and appreciating the trip, from the dust to the sunrises, the team is grateful for good weather and safe passage in the mountains. 

Thanks for following along with the team on our adventures through Mexico and our climbs of the mighty volcanoes.  

RMI Guide Abby Westling

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Denali Expedition: Walter and Team Abort the Move to 17,000’ Camp

Friday, May 27, 2022 6:55pm PT

We attempted to reach 17,000’camp today but were thwarted by high winds just above the top of the fixed lines. After several days waiting for favorable weather, we were all antsy to get moving, but the risk of frostbite made descending an easy call. We are currently back at 14,000’ camp and are going to assess our options for the coming days.

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo and Team

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“Success is not final, failure is not fatal; It is the courage to continue that counts.” — Winston Churchill

Posted by: Jami L on 5/28/2022 at 8:53 pm

We are so proud of you Michael! Keep on keepin’ on!! We are all rooting for you! Love you lots!

Posted by: Anne P on 5/28/2022 at 6:47 pm


Kilimanjaro: Enjoying The Safari at Ngorongoro Crater

This is Seth checking in from Ngorongoro Crater. We've been having a spectacular day of game viewing. The main event was getting to see two lions, one male, one female, right next to the road. We have also seen tons of other stuff. Tonight we're staying at the Plantation Lodge and tomorrow we will visit Tarangire National Park. RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Peter Whittaker
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Hi Guys! It’s Samantha’s class! We just wanted to congratulate you all on your amazing climb! Have fun on your safari!

-Mrs.Dunne’s Class

Posted by: PAT DUNNE on 10/17/2013 at 5:09 am


Cotopaxi Express:  Summit Day!

Boy did we luck out this morning! After three days of being totally obscured, Cotopaxi was out and about in the stars when we woke up. The team assembled for breakfast and loaded packs for what would be a long and successful day of climbing. Breaking trail all the way up, navigating through crevasses and seracs, and enjoying spectacular views and unpredictable weather gave us a full value day in the mountains. Safely up, our thoughts turned to getting safely down and the team made it happen. Now we are showering at the Hacienda La Cienega and getting set for a victory meal! Thanks to everyone back home, we'll see you soon. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in after their successful summit day.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What a day!  Congrats to all, gratitude to team leaders.  Good news from the real world:  former REI Chief named Secretary of the Interior by an enlightened President.

Posted by: nsb on 2/7/2013 at 8:38 am

Awesome job, fantastic news so proud of you barbara thank you to the whole team for having a safe climb. See you soon, very happy for all of you, great pic. Jay R. in Kalispell Montana.

Posted by: Jay R. on 2/6/2013 at 3:07 pm


Climbers Receive Puja Blessing

The clouds blew in the right direction today. In fact, everything lined up just right in most ways today. It was an auspicious day... so judged by our Sherpa team after a careful reading of the Tibetan calendar. Auspicious enough that our Puja ceremony was held today. Doubly Auspicious because it was Easter Sunday. Thrice Auspicious because it was the nicest day we've had in a week. Peter Whittaker revealed that he'd stayed up last night with a few of the Sherpa team in the kitchen to decorate Easter eggs. Not so surprisingly, the Sherpas had not gone through that particular ritual before and Peter said they fully got into the task, coloring boiled eggs and attaching bright stickers. They were excited at the convergence of Easter, the planned Puja and a Sunday to boot. Peter kept all of this to himself and arose at 5 AM to hop down the bunny trail to his partners' tents and quietly salt the area with Easter eggs. He said he was surprised to run into another rabbit out there secretly doing the same thing. Linden Mallory had his own egg planting plans for the morning and was busily hiding colored plastic eggs with prizes within. After breakfast and before the Puja began, the team (those who had not been bunnies) chased around searching for eggs. Jeff Martin and Linden made things interesting by mentioning that two of the eggs held special prizes. Ed Viesturs quickly tracked down the one that granted its discoverer the free drink of his choice from Gorak Shep. It took Seth Waterfall a bit longer to hone in on the bright blue egg that held the $20 cash prize. And then it was Puja time. The Puja is a ceremony quite important to our Sherpa team, and thus to us as well. In it, we ask the blessing of the mountain gods before setting foot on this sacred -and dangerous- mountain. A lama came up from Pangboche in order to read the correct prayers and chants. Our Sherpa team had worked throughout the morning to prepare a stone chorten as a sort of alter for the ceremony. Incense and juniper were lit as a way of sending fragrant smoke upward in offering. Partway through the three hour observance, a prayer mast was erected and flags unfurled in all directions. Our First Ascent team sat drinking tea and taking pictures of the colorful scene... but also contemplating the seriousness of an undertaking that requires so much blessing. The latter stages of the Puja involve a good deal of celebrating and toasting and tossing of rice. Finally, everybody grabs a big handful of Tsampa (barley flour) and tosses half of it in the air while saving half to smear on the faces of ones climbing partners. As you'd expect, this gets out of hand... and into hair, cameras, eyes, ears and everything as one and all laugh, shake hands and fist bump. Our Sherpa team then invited us to join them in linking arms for a last half hour of carefree dancing and singing. We sang along and nobody seemed to mind that we didn't know either the words or the dance steps. The word is that the last 200 meters or so of the route to Camp I are giving the Icefall Doctors a special challenge. We are hoping each day now to hear that they've forged some sort of passage. Tomorrow we resume our training at the foot of the Icefall. We'll be rested, blessed and ready.
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Mt. Rainier: Smith, Wittmier & Four Day Teams Reach the summit

The July 24 - 27 Four Day Climb teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 6:30 am today led by RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Dustin Wittmier. Hannah reported good route conditions and perfect weather.  The team enjoyed some time on top, crossing the crater to Columbia Crest.  They began their descent from the crater rim just before 8 am.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for a quick stop before continuing down to Paradise later this afternoon.

Nice work team!  Congratulations on reaching the summit!

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Mt. Rainier: Kautz Seminar Turn Due to High Avy Conditions

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and the Kautz seminar team called 11,000’ their high point. This morning, Dustin reported that high avalanche conditions would keep them from climbing. Despite the route conditions, the teams enjoyed beautiful weather on their ascent, great views of Mt. Rainier, and were able to use their time to train and learn glacier travel techniques, anchors, and more to prepare them for their next big adventure!

The team will conclude their program tomorrow with a celebration at Rainier Basecamp.

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Land on the Kahiltna, Establish First Camp

Sunday, May 15, 2022 - 1:10 am PT

It was an auspicious start to our May 12 Denali Expedition today. When we called K2 in the morning to ask how things looked they replied "unlimited visibility and perfect". We rallied a hasty breakfast and headed for the hanger. We had gotten all of our bags set yesterday, so it didn't take much to get the planes loaded and launched. The pilots were taken with how clear and gorgeous the day was too, taking several detours to show us stunning corners of the Alaska Range on the way.

We landed and hit the ground running. Fully loaded sleds and packs were an indication of the magnitude of our undertaking, but the team cruised through the 5.5 miles of mellow glacier travel, and we rolled in to our first camp looking fresh. Everyone is fed and tucked into warm sleeping bags and as we write, a stunning full moon is rising over Mt. Hunter.

We plan to carry a load up towards Kahiltna pass tomorrow and then return to camp. We'll be in touch.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland, and team

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