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RMI Team Member Craig Heard Checking In.
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Avery Parrinello, Nick Sinapius, Daniel May, Trevor Katz, George Hedreen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Avery Parrinello and the Four Day Climb May 11 - 14 were unable to leave Camp Muir for their summit attempt due to high winds. Dave reported winds gusting 60-70 mph. The teams waited, ready to climb, for the winds to dissipate, but no such luck.
The teams will return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon to conclude their climb.
Posted by: Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Joey Manship
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
June 25, 2023 10:00am PT
It seems surreal that just 24 hours ago we were sitting on the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier with our fingers crossed for flyable weather. Kahiltna International Airport (KIA) could have just as easily been our home for the next week but instead we slept easily and comfortably on real mattresses for the first time in nearly 3 weeks. Today and only today the weather cooperated for us to make our escape. How did we get here? Let me tell you...
24 hours prior to the 24 hours that we just experienced...
We woke up to a mix of clouds and sunshine at 14k Camp and casually dismantled camp and packed up all our things. The weather and clouds mostly stayed below us with an occasional surge of precip and wind at camp. The walk down to 11k Camp was uneventful other than a quick reunion with Dominic Cifelli and Dave Hahn's respective RMI climbing teams. High fives were had but we kept moving, we had a timeline to meet.
Once at a 11k Camp again we located our cache, set up tents, made water and ate dinner. The clouds rolled in and out of 11 Camp like the tide on the shore. Like the tide, what was in the clouds was wet and gross. After "napping" for around 3 hours, we "woke up" at 9:30pm to get moving again to catch the lower glacier in its most stable and frozen condition.
Sadly, the cloud we walked into below 11 Camp was hovering around 33 degrees and raining. The team was quickly covered in a layer of ice and rime. Everything - backpacks, trekking poles, goggles, jackets, pants, were incased in a 1/4 cm of ice. We trudged for several hours through this freezing rain. Eventually we got below the cloud, and everyone shed their icy armor that had accumulated. After a break at the bottom of Ski Hill to recover our cache (and thaw out), we resumed trudging on the lower Kahiltna.
A simple 3 more hours of trudging in what ended up being a fairly direct path across the Kahiltna glacier, we arrived at Heart Break Hill. It was time for the final hour of uphill that must be ascended to return to the airstrip. The team's morale stayed high, and hearts stayed unbroken. We made quick work of Heart Break Hill. Shortly after 5am, we were back at the airstrip; 19 days had elapsed since we were last here. It seemed surreal to be back. Even more surreal the weather continued to cooperate, the cloud ceiling stayed high, the sun showed itself briefly! Around 8:45am the drone of a K2 Turbo Otter was heard. 24 hours after leaving 14k Camp, we were picked up in the most wonderful red plane you've ever seen and whisked back to civilization, Talkeetna.
Everyone has been awake for 24-36 hours at the time of writing this. There is still much clean up and packing to do before we can sleep.
The trip is over, but our memories and experiences will last a lifetime. This is the final blog from The Bond Girls. If you want to know more, contact your loved ones, they have service now! Even if they're pretending they don't...
Cheers,
Reading the first sentence, the unplugged acoustic version of the Ramones’ “I Wanna Be Sedated” started playing in my head as soundtrack and accompaniment. Reading what the Bond Girls had to do to get to the plane from 14k, I would say they are the real rockstars.
Posted by: Mike Forsyth on 6/25/2023 at 11:55 am
Namaste everyone.
This morning we left our tea house in Phakding and headed up the valley toward Namche Bazaar, which is the largest village in this famous valley. We hit the trail just before 8 along with quite a few other trekkers. Everyone did really well on the hike, and no one seemed to mind pausing often for the endless mules and Zopkyos (cross between a Yak and a cow) carrying loads headed up valley and basecamp as we made our up the trail. It was moderately busy on the route with trekkers and porters alike, but thankfully the traffic seem to flow pretty smoothly.
The team crossed a number of high suspension bridges without a problem, even with a light rain falling. Overall it was a really enjoyable day as we climbed up to just over 11'200 where Namche sits.
Happy St. Patrick’s Day!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and Base Camp Crew
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
On The Map
We certainly enjoy the blog updates. Hope the weather cooperates soon! Michael, our thoughts are with you and all the others. Love, Mom & Dad
Posted by: Eual/Paula Conditt on 6/13/2012 at 8:56 pm
We are enjoying the blog. It makes us feel like we can almost talk to you. Wishing you a successful trip Jeff/dad/team. We are cheering you on. Love Debbie, Andrew, and Madison
Posted by: Debbie Boskind on 6/12/2012 at 2:14 pm
Hi David,
We’re awaiting the good news that you and the team have reached the summit. Hoping for sunny skies and a safe and successful climb to the top and back down.
Lynda and Rick
Posted by: Lynda and Rick on 7/1/2012 at 8:15 pm
David, we are pulling for down here in rainy portland. be safe and have fun. Sue D
Posted by: sue dimin on 6/30/2012 at 8:04 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
Monday, May 16, 2022 - 9:37 pm PT
At 4 am this morning the wolf tried his first huff. He then continued to huff and puff and try to blow down our house but we had built it strong. While we hunkered in our tents it was clear that it wasn't a day to try to walk anywhere. It blew for the morning but by early afternoon began to abate and have us a chance to get out of the tents and stretch our legs. This evening turned gorgeous as the wind went calm and the skies cleared. We should have smooth sailing for a move to 11,000' Camp tomorrow. We'll touch base.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and team
Albert!!!
Imagino que podrà s rebre el nostre missatge. Pel que veig, de moment dies amb bones vistes i només un dia de fort vent. Espero que estiguis bé i en forma i que l’expedició estigui anant bé. Les fotos del blog es veuen espectaculars. Molts à nims des de Catalunya!!! Endavant amb l’expedició!!
Posted by: Marc on 5/22/2022 at 11:08 pm
My wife and I are in Alaska and have a flight planned on Sat, 5/21 at 13:30 to view Denali and land on a glacier - with K2. Stu - I hope to see ya somewhere around the 14K camp - from the air. Good luck Stu - and the entire team. Kyle
Posted by: Kyle Martin on 5/20/2022 at 11:54 pm
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
What a day,
Clear skies greeted us this morning creating a very brisk morning. Once again camp was quiet with the cold. As the sun broke over the mountain and warmed camp it became alive. Teams started moving around going various directions whether it was heading toward 17,000' Camp or going down to the 13,500' cache. For us it was going down to our 13,500' cache. We made fast work grabing our gear and getting back to camp. After a lunch break we went for a walk to the Edge of the World. You can see all the way down to our first camp at 7,800'. Its a long fall over the edge but makes for great hero shots. Everyone got belayed onto the rock (much like the rock from lion king) and got great photos, ice axe in hand, big smiles and thousands of feet of relief below them. As for tomorrow we are in a holding pattern with weather and logistics. No matter what we end up doing tomorrow it will be a good day and is all apart of our journey to the top.
All the best,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Julia—You are our HERO . only you can reach for the stars. Happy 20th on the 20- My 80th Bday is also today. Ricardo y Norita - Tio Richard.
Posted by: Ricardo J Ferro on 6/21/2021 at 7:06 am
Happy 20th birthday to my amazing & brave niece, Julia! You are beautiful inside and out! Love you so much!
Poupou
Posted by: Poupou on 6/20/2021 at 2:23 pm
Posted by: Casey Grom, Ben Liken, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations Casey, we saw in paradise on Saturday when they returned from their mountain school!
Posted by: Luis Carrasco on 6/12/2017 at 10:13 am
Linden Mallory and Team back at High Camp
Congrats! I’m so glad you lot were able to summit!
Posted by: Aimee on 7/8/2011 at 6:22 pm
Congrats to Frank & all - can’t wait for a first hand account.
Posted by: Pat & Jim on 7/8/2011 at 2:01 pm
Papa, GREAT job! Hope there was a little bit of clear skies so everyone could have a good view. We can’t wait to hear all about your adventure tomorrow. Love, Michael and Gracie
Posted by: michael and gracie on 12/8/2011 at 4:20 pm
Spence - Looks like you and the team are really ready for the big climb. Sounds like all has gone extremely well. Luck to all!
Posted by: M.A. Arnold- on 12/7/2011 at 9:31 pm
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