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Tuesday, August 27, 2024 - 2:54 pm PT

We have just completed our Easton Glacier climb of Mt. Baker August 25 - 27. We hiked up to Sandy camp on our first day, took a short break, and then got into skills training in anticipation of climbing on day 2 with a better weather forecast. After an early alpine start, we called the crater rim our high point due to snowpack conditions and deteriorating weather. After coming back down we practiced some anchor building and crevasse rescue before retreating to our tents due to rain. We managed to stay dry on Day 3 as we hiked back down to the trailhead and enjoyed a closing lunch as a team.

RMI Guide Josh Geiser

Hello readers,

What a day, what a day. We woke again to snow and all you can see, white. The forecast didn't call for all this snow and white but it's what we got for 36 hours straight. Hope wasn't lost and the team enjoyed a group activity of stomping out the runway. It didn't look like we would fly but we would at least be ready for those planes. The hours went by and no change. Surely we would spend another night at basecamp...then all of a sudden the clouds started to lift. There was a bustle around camp...planes were coming. The team having done a few false alarm pack ups was dialed. In less than 30 minutes we were fully packed up waiting next to the airstrip for our plane. It is a whirlwind experience to be one second in your sleeping bag on the mountain and the next loading a plane to take you off. In no time we were back in civilization, stinky, tired, and a few shades darker from the sun. A long shower, a hot meal not cooked over the XKG stoves, and a mattress you don't have to blow up later, we are new people. It's been an amazing trip full of ups and downs and always lessons learned about ourselves. We are grateful to be back safe and already look forward to our next adventures. 

Thanks for following along! Till next time,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

Monday, June 20, 2022 - 10:04 pm PT

Greetings from 7200 ft on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.  Right where we wanted to be.  We left Talkeetna in two classic ski equipped Otter prop planes and headed into the Alaska Range.  Clouds were clearing and the views were stunning.  The weather in this section of Alaska has been quite dry in recent months and so there wasn’t much snow left outside the range.  We had great views of the giant, striped glaciers like the Ruth and the Tokasitna.   We landed uphill on the SE Fork at about 11:15.   Avery Parrinello’s successful RMI climbing team greeted us and helped us unload, since our then empty planes were taking them toward Talkeetna and home.  We exchanged a few hugs and wished each other well and then our team set to building a camp.  It was made just slightly difficult. -putting up tents- by our need to stop every few minutes to marvel at the scenery and scale of everything.  Mt. Hunter towers over basecamp, seemingly straight up for miles.  Mt. Foraker, at 17,400 ft just across the way, looks impossibly massive and formidable.   Once camp was up, we dove into some training and review for glacier travel and crevasse rescue.  We covered many topics through the afternoon and evening, aiming to have the team well-informed for travel in the early morning hours tomorrow -when the glacier surface is frozen solid.  We ate our first dinner on the mountain in a quickly excavated dining room and then did a few last organizational chores before turning in early (in the still bright sun) for some rest.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Hi there, We woke up this morning at Camp 1 with high winds, and big plumes of spin drift on the saddle above us, so we decided to stay here for one more day. Our current plan, based on the short good weather window that the forecast has given us, is to move to camp 2 tomorrow, the next day move to Camp 3 and the next day go for the summit! The group is very excited about the new plan after having been inside the tents for the last 48 hours. The winds at this moment have started to slow down, so it looks like the forecast is right. We will check in tomorrow from Camp 2. Gabi, Pete, Gilbert and the Aconcagua team

On The Map

Monday, June 17, 2019 - 4:22 AM PT Greetings from Moscow. Most of us awoke at 4am this morning for no reason. The sun rises early here, which doesn’t help with the jetlag. Today we embarked on a city tour of Moscow that included St Basils Cathedral, the Kremlin, and Red Square’s otherworldly shopping mall. We’re working on rounding up some delayed ski bags and delayed teammates, which hopefully will all be in one place by this evening. So far so good here in Russia... RMI Guide Tyler Reid

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb led by Mike Haugen reached the summit in hot weather and no wind. The team departed the crater rim at 8 a.m. Once the team is at Camp Muir, they will regroup and continue their descent to Paradise. JJ Justman and his Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons are driving to White River to begin their four days on the Camp Schurman/Emmons Route.

Despite stormy conditions, a small summit climb team reached the summit today led by Brent Okita. The team did not linger on the summit before beginning their descent at 8:00 a.m. The climbs are back to Paradise and are currently on their way to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford. Congratulations!

At above 17,000' the temperatures dipped well below freezing last night and the small stove in the teahouse dining room lay cold this morning. We wrapped our hands around steaming cups of tea at breakfast and searched for the patches of morning light streaming in through the windows. It was another clear, beautiful morning and we were warm within a few minutes of setting out from Gorak Shep. The trail to Base Camp brought us along the edge of the Khumbu Glacier, weaving, climbing, and descending among the rocks and eroding slopes of the hillside that is being continuously carved by the glacier passing along it. After a couple of miles ascending along the glacier's edge we dropped off the morraine and onto the glacier itself. This far down the glacier surface is covered with rocks pulled from the mountain higher up, yet just beneath is glacial ice, requiring full attention walking to avoid slipping - not such an easy task with the incredible views as we passed between Nuptse and Pumori and stared up at Everest's West Shoulder. By late morning we reached the community of tents that is cropping up at Everest Base Camp. We were warmly greeted by RMI's Sherpa and BC staff who gave us the tour of Base Camp. They have been here for two weeks already, carving platforms from the uneven ice and building rock walls to support the tents, and have done an incredible job turning a rather desolate patch of ice into a comfortable home for us. Kumar, our expedition cook with more than 15 yrs of experience, prepared a phenomenal lunch for us and everyone agreed it was the best meal yet of the trip (although it was quickly topped by dinner this evening). We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and exploring Base Camp, venturing over to the entrance to the Icefall and paying a visit to the Icefall Doctors, the legendary team of Sherpas who fix the route through the Khumbu Icefall. When the sun passed behind Pumori, the peak to the west of BC, the temperatures again dropped. Wearing our down coats at the table, we enjoyed another excellent dinner before crawling into our tents here at BC. We are spending the day in Base Camp tomorrow, using the surrounding glacier to train for Island Peak. The team is thrilled to be here, everyone is doing well and sends their best to those at home. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Good morning,

The team is getting a final bit of relaxation at Chilcabamba Eco Lodge this morning.  It's blue skies and the mountains are out.  The group seems to be in good spirits as they prepare to head to the Jose Ribas Refugio today, where they will rest for the evening before a very early start tonight.  The summit of Cotopaxi and the climbing route is visible from Chilcabamba this morning, giving everyone some additional motivation!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Another rest day for the Aconcagua summit hopefuls. Unlike other more snow covered mountains, there is a lot of down time on Aconcagua. Some love the rest, others tend to go stir crazy with cabin fever. At least today the sun is shining and the wind is light allowing for ample time to breath deep and enjoy the views outside of our tents. The weather trend still looks favourable for a Sunday summit attempt. Hopefully the wind holds long enough for us to tag the top.

RMI Guide Nick Scott