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Wednesday, June 16, 2022 - 8:47 pm PT

Hey-O,

Man did it feel good to sleep in! No alarms just a gradual wake up with no rush to get breakfast going. Twelve hours in a tent can be difficult but it is necessary for the body to adjust to the altitude. It takes a while for the sun to hit camp but once it does it thaws the frost from the tents and turns this frozen camp into a toasty one. While rest was the main goal for today we also needed to sort gear for our carry tomorrow and review some skills with crampons and ice axe. Another team rolled into camp today. It's been quiet here so their presence is welcomed. As the air starts to chill and the sun gets lower we all crawl back into our tents and get ready for the night. Tomorrow will be a fun day getting higher and closer to our objective.

Talk to you tomorrow,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

At noon yesterday the West Ridge - Forbidden Peak team reached the summit.  We started early to beat the heat (and other parties) and were rewarded with shade for much of the ascent. The climb went smoothly, the team was strong and all optional crux pitches were sent!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Yeehaw! We did it! The team took full advantage of perfect weather and great route conditions on Mt. Elbrus today. We could not help but stand on top this morning. We returned to the Garabashi Hut, our home for the last few nights, packed our gear and continued our descent. We are back down in the Baksan valley at the base of Mt. Elbrus. Let the celebration begin! RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

At above 17,000' the temperatures dipped well below freezing last night and the small stove in the teahouse dining room lay cold this morning. We wrapped our hands around steaming cups of tea at breakfast and searched for the patches of morning light streaming in through the windows. It was another clear, beautiful morning and we were warm within a few minutes of setting out from Gorak Shep. The trail to Base Camp brought us along the edge of the Khumbu Glacier, weaving, climbing, and descending among the rocks and eroding slopes of the hillside that is being continuously carved by the glacier passing along it. After a couple of miles ascending along the glacier's edge we dropped off the morraine and onto the glacier itself. This far down the glacier surface is covered with rocks pulled from the mountain higher up, yet just beneath is glacial ice, requiring full attention walking to avoid slipping - not such an easy task with the incredible views as we passed between Nuptse and Pumori and stared up at Everest's West Shoulder. By late morning we reached the community of tents that is cropping up at Everest Base Camp. We were warmly greeted by RMI's Sherpa and BC staff who gave us the tour of Base Camp. They have been here for two weeks already, carving platforms from the uneven ice and building rock walls to support the tents, and have done an incredible job turning a rather desolate patch of ice into a comfortable home for us. Kumar, our expedition cook with more than 15 yrs of experience, prepared a phenomenal lunch for us and everyone agreed it was the best meal yet of the trip (although it was quickly topped by dinner this evening). We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and exploring Base Camp, venturing over to the entrance to the Icefall and paying a visit to the Icefall Doctors, the legendary team of Sherpas who fix the route through the Khumbu Icefall. When the sun passed behind Pumori, the peak to the west of BC, the temperatures again dropped. Wearing our down coats at the table, we enjoyed another excellent dinner before crawling into our tents here at BC. We are spending the day in Base Camp tomorrow, using the surrounding glacier to train for Island Peak. The team is thrilled to be here, everyone is doing well and sends their best to those at home. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Its been a busy last few days here in Tibet, and we have logged some serious car time. Yesterday we left Lhasa around 9am and drove until 8pm to reach Xigatse (sha-got-see). It was an exhausting, but beautiful drive across the Tibetan Plateau. There were hundreds of small villages scattered across the countryside. Most of the homes are handmade from stone and are inhabited by Tibetans that live very simple lives. Most of the Tibetans are farmers and raise livestock in this stark environment. The terraced valleys are evidence of the centuries of farming. We visited several monasteries along the way and drove over a few paved passes that reached as high as 17,000'. Today was more of the same and we have finally reached our last town before we head into the mountains. We are currently in Shegar or also known as New Tingri in a hotel with other climbers and trekkers from around the world. We will spend two nights here to continue acclimatizing. Shegar sits at just over 14,000', nearly as high as Mt. Rainier. We are thankfully going on a hike tomorrow and everyone is excited especially after so much sitting in the car. All is well and we'll check in again soon.

Barranco Camp!

Following a lazy afternoon at Shira Camp relaxing, enjoying tent time and playing cards, we were again treated to another incredible dinner by Tosha, our world class chef. This set is up for for today's trek up the Shira Plateau to Lava Tower 15,200' where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch in perfect weather. From here our descent through the giant groundsels, lobelias and senecios of this unique and beautiful valley was easy and fun. Climbing under the steep, western side of this mountain with the remains of its glaciers was impressive, and soon brought us to Camp at 13,070'. With its dramatic beauty and views down valley to the city of Mosha this is surely the most picturesque Camp on the route. Plus, we see our next challenge right in front of us: the Barranco Wall. Our local guides are impressed with the team, commenting on the strength of everyone. An insight I've shared since the first day.

RMI Guide Brent Okita & Team

Another rest day for the Aconcagua summit hopefuls. Unlike other more snow covered mountains, there is a lot of down time on Aconcagua. Some love the rest, others tend to go stir crazy with cabin fever. At least today the sun is shining and the wind is light allowing for ample time to breath deep and enjoy the views outside of our tents. The weather trend still looks favourable for a Sunday summit attempt. Hopefully the wind holds long enough for us to tag the top.

RMI Guide Nick Scott

Freshly showered and doing well! Our team is safely off the mountain and enjoying a celebration dinner back at the Dik Dik Hotel. Safari starts tomorrow. RMI Guide Casey Grom

It is a beautiful day on Mt. Rainier. The Five Day Summit Climb July 7 - 11 led by Eric Frank and the Four Day Summit Climb July 8 - 11 led by Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reached the crater rim around 7:30 a.m. They reported clear skies, great conditions and winds ranging from 0 to none. The Five Day Kautz Climb is descending to Paradise this morning. Their entire team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday morning. Congratulations to today's summit teams!

A little over 7 miles of hiking brought us to the Perros glacier overlook and nearby camp. The wind, forest and rivers make for a soothing ambient soundtrack as the trail winds through the lenga trees. We are at the base of the Pass, fed & rested for the longest day to join the "W" circuit in the Grey Glacier Valley. The laughs continue as we get to know each other.

RMI Guide Mike King