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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Summit!

Monday, June 17, 2013 Hello, this is Jake with RMI #5 standing on top of Denali with an awesome crew on an absolutely beautiful day. We'll give a shout when we get down but it doesn't get too much better than this. Thanks everybody for the support, and will be checking in from down low. Over and out. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren calls from the Mt. McKinley summit!

On The Map

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Wow!!!  So totally impressive and so happy for the whole team.  Congratulations on a great trip up and have a safe trip down!

Posted by: Nina Baj on 6/19/2013 at 10:14 am

We woke up on the East Coast to your most welcome audio clip from on high. How sweet the sound!

Posted by: Bill and Kathleen on 6/18/2013 at 5:30 am


Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Ready for Expedition

What a day! A team meeting over breakfast followed by our park service orientation was just the beginning. The real work started at the hanger of our flight service, K2 Aviation. It was here that the tedium of going thru our gear, both personal and group stuff will pay off hugely when we get to the mountain and are stuck with the equipment we've chosen. REI has yet to set up shop on the Kahiltna Glacier. As we wind down the day a great meal sits in our bellies and we look forward to a final night luxuriating in a real bed where a hot shower and toilet lie but a few carpeted paces away. Tomorrow will be different! With luck we'll be flying onto the glacier at 9:00am to start our trip... One that we have all been working so hard and dreaming about for so long. And we start it as a group of individuals already well on our way to being a team of climbers and, more importantly, friends. I know that we're all excited to get under way. I know too that I'm excited to climb with this very impressive group. Well, all for now from the cozy little town of Talkeetna. RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

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Doug and Audrey - we’re thinking of you every step of the way.  Hope you’re enjoying it and seeing remarkable views.  Love, Mom and Pops

P.S. Twins are losing to Detroit

Posted by: Matt and Sue on 5/26/2012 at 1:31 pm

Please tell Phil Usher: uphill and into the wind! Heather

Posted by: Heather Grahame on 5/26/2012 at 10:04 am


Mt. Elbrus Ski: Reid & Team Arrive Moscow and Explore City

Monday, June 17, 2019 - 4:22 AM PT Greetings from Moscow. Most of us awoke at 4am this morning for no reason. The sun rises early here, which doesn’t help with the jetlag. Today we embarked on a city tour of Moscow that included St Basils Cathedral, the Kremlin, and Red Square’s otherworldly shopping mall. We’re working on rounding up some delayed ski bags and delayed teammates, which hopefully will all be in one place by this evening. So far so good here in Russia... RMI Guide Tyler Reid
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Ryan, guess it’s going to be difficult for you to NOT stand out in a crowd in Moscow. This is such an exciting adventure and you are the perfect one to do it! Have a great experience and take it all in.“Time of your life kid.”

Posted by: John & Leslie Cooper on 6/18/2019 at 7:05 pm


Mt. Rainier: July 10th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Seth Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just after 7 am PT with 100% of their team! They reported light winds from the south and blue skies. The Five Day Kautz Glacier Climb led by Jason Thompson also reached the summit this morning. They started their descent from the crater rim just after 7 a.m. The team will return to their High Camp for their final night on the mountain. Congratulations to today's teams!
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Hey Wilder and Dink and your team - Wow!  We look forward to hearing all the stories!  Yes!!

Posted by: Beth Morningstar on 7/10/2012 at 8:37 am

Great job Wayne, Phil, Brennan and Scott.  Can’t wait to hear all about it.  Cheers!

Posted by: Barbara Johnson on 7/10/2012 at 8:35 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Rest at 11,000’

Throughout the night the clouds surrounding camp started to produce snow and dropped over a foot around our tents. Plans are always in flux up here and our carry higher on the mountain has been postponed. The crew is unfazed, merrily digging out our home and relaxing with a big salmon and bagel breakfast. Another round of digging and a bit of rest before our upcoming potluck lunch. Down days can be productive, storing up strength for higher up on Denali and fine tuning the essential camp skills required for the future. That's all for now, cross your fingers for a break in the weather and we'll check in later. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Yo Eric & Elias!  Keep up the good work.  We’re pulling for you!  Can’t wait to see the summit pictures!  Wayne, Ian & Zach

Posted by: Wayne on 6/14/2012 at 5:17 am

Ross and K.  Hopefully everything is working out in the tent.  Fate kept me here for this one.  I cant wait to hear the stories.  Remember to keep your water bottles and the tuna salad in your bags!!  Stay warm guys! - Dave

Posted by: dave kolar on 6/13/2012 at 8:06 pm


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Make Difficult Decision to Descend

Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 10:50 pm PT

Hello trusty readers,

Sorry for the gap in dispatches. Things got a little busy with logistics. We took two rest days at 14,000' Camp figuring out weather and logistics on who wanted to continue up and who wanted to go down. With weather being finicky most of the team decided to focus on getting off the mountain. For those that desired uphill movement it was the weather we needed to figure out. After many ominous forecast with only small windows of calm we decided our best option was to stay together as a team and make our way down the mountain. Its always a hard decision to go down, especially when you still have time. But sometimes, the cards just aren't in your favor. It's been a great trip even without the summit. We have made it back to 11,000' Camp and are taking a quick nap before we make our way to the airstrip. Tomorrow is suppose to be the best weather day so figures crossed we make it off the glacier.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

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Hey Hannah and Team,
That is a bummer but like you have always said, “its about the experience!”

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/2/2023 at 4:01 am

To go as far as all the teams went is to say they made it to the top…like many who expressed…thank you for your wisdom in playing it safe. So impressed. Bethany ...you did a spectacular display of strength and determination and so many have expressed how inspired they are of your accomplishments. Looking forward to hearing details.
Love M❤M

Posted by: Jan L. Gray on 6/1/2023 at 2:25 pm


Advanced Ski Guide Course: Reflections from RMI Guide Kel Rossiter

Mountaineering and music have much in common to share. When we consider music, we often think of pleasant noises combined together to make song—but it is precisely the silence between those bits of noise that make music more than simply a frantic crashing of sound. So too, it is with mountaineering: much focus is given to the getting up the mountain, but it is the descent that gives it meaning. You can no more have a successful climb without a descent than you can have a front without a back. And adding the mode of skiing to that descent provides an additional aesthetic beauty to that project. During early-April I had the opportunity to explore and expand my understanding of the ski mountaineering aesthetic through the American Mountain Guides Association's Advanced Ski Guide Course. This ten-day course is the follow-up to the twelve-day, introductory Ski Guide Course (which I'd completed in 2015) and is the precursor to an eight-day Ski Exam. With the benefit of RMI's commitment to the professional development of its guides, I was able to attend the Advanced Ski Guide Course in Thompson Pass, Alaska. Thompson Pass in Alaska's Chugach Range contains mountains beyond mountains. Thompson Pass is part of the storied Chugach Range, the setting for more extreme skiing videos than perhaps anywhere else on the planet. Jagged, flat-iron peaks are flanked with row upon rows of steep and deep powder couloirs that spill into massive glacial basins, with easy access provided by the Richardson Highway running through it, connecting the port town of Valdez with the rest of The Last Frontier. This makes it the perfect place for the Advanced course. Whereas the introductory Ski Guides Course focuses on safely moving groups through backcountry avalanche terrain and finding the best skiing along the way, the Advanced Ski Guide Course brings in the components of safe travel on glaciers (e.g., navigating in white out conditions, avoiding crevasses, dealing with crevasse rescue, etc) and managing skiers in technical mountain terrain (e.g., roped travel through steep rock and snow, belayed entry into steep terrain, effective group management in narrow couloirs, etc). The training covered a variety of techniques for safe skiing in steep terrain including belayed skiing. But there's more to it than just the technical aspects—because, after all, in ski mountaineering the focus of climbing a peak goes beyond just the joy of standing on the summit—there is the consideration of finding the most enjoyable line to ski on the way down. Having completed AMGA certifications in Rock and Alpine Guiding, I'm versed in the technique and mindset needed to successfully climb large objectives, and that mindset could be generally summed up with the word “efficiency”. Moving into the world of ski mountaineering has been an exciting shift of paradigms, working to also incorporate in the concepts of “aesthetics” and “enjoyment”. In the world of alpine climbing, enjoyment is often seen as what you experience upon completing the goal, standing on the summit and coming back down safely. In the world of ski mountaineering, standing on the summit is a necessary pleasure before the true pleasure of ski descent can be attained. A greater focus on both product and process that I'm finding increasingly attractive. The training covered a variety of techniques for safe skiing in steep terrain including crevasse rescue. I'm not the only one finding this product and process increasingly attractive: backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering is among the fastest growing segments of the outdoor world. And RMI is at the forefront in developing programs to help its audience enjoy the sport. RMI Guide Tyler Reid leads ski descents of Europe's highest peak, Mt. Elbrus, and explores Chile's renowned skiing with RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall. In 2018, I'll be doing a Mt. Baker Climb/Ski as well as a custom ski/climb program. RMI, long at the lead in helping climbers reach their summit goals, now has a range of excellent ski options to ensure that the descent is both safe and extremely rewarding. For a look at some of my other experiences with backcountry skiing, ski mountaineering, and the AMGA Ski Guide program, check out these links: • Mammut Athlete Team Blog about my ski experiences in the Alps prior to the Ski Guides Course. • RMI Blog post about my experiences in learning snow science during the American Avalanche Institute's Level 3 Avalanche Course. RMI Guide Kel Rossiter
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Aconcagua: Liken & Team Finish Expedition in Mendoza

All good things must end and this Aconcagua Expedition is no different. The team went on our final walk out of the Vacas Valley together yesterday, and within five hours we were back in civilization. After watching the dirt and trip dust wash off us in the shower, we all went to a fancy celebration dinner. Even though the team enjoyed peppers cooking, it was agreed the restaurant was a bit better. Everyone is now excited to head home and reflect on an excellent adventure. RMI Guide Ben Liken
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

checks are in the mail to Ben and Pepper, they are sent to RMI c/o Ben and Pepper at the Ashland washinton address.
hope this note finds you well, it was a great experience!! My urine has gone back to its normal yellow as opposed to the dark rusty red color it was at high camp. Nothing but cheery memories from here on out!!
dave folsom

Posted by: dave folsom on 2/25/2017 at 2:41 pm

Pepper,
I need an address so I can send your tip. This was an amazing adventure for me,  and you and Ben were great guides. I will be reliving the adventure again and again, probably getting a little closer to the top each time. After a year or two who knows I may have summited. Get me your address so I can send some $$, you guys deserve it.
P.S. you will always have a warm bed and good food if passing through Medford.
dave folsom

Posted by: dave folsom on 2/21/2017 at 9:40 am


Ecuador Volcanoes: King & Team Check Out Quito and Hike Rucu Pichincha

This is Mike checking in for the Ecuador Team. Apologies for missing yesterday, we just had to much fun getting to know each other and walking around Quito. We went to the equator and watched a bunch of parlor tricks relating to the Middle of the Earth. We also learned about the art of Amazonian head shrinking. We concluded the day walking through the beautiful streets and plazas of Old Town which was built in the mid 1500’s.

This morning we met up with one of our Ecuadorean guide,Pablo, for an acclimatization hike on Rucu Pichincha. We rallied up in taxis to the teleferico (gondola) which takes you to 13,500’. The views of the greater Quito valley were spectacular. From there we hiked to 15,700’ and got some views but we were mostly in the clouds with cool temperatures. The goal today was to stretch the legs and lungs a bit and just get out to see the beautiful Ecuadorean countryside. The trail wandered through grassy slopes and a lot of flowering shrubs.

Everyone is back at the hotel for some rest and packing. We will head out tomorrow for another day hike and travel towards Cayambe for our first climb of the trip. Thanks for following along

RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

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Wow

Posted by: Bernie lanigan on 12/5/2019 at 4:09 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Continue Descent and Family Visit

We ate cookies for breakfast in a smokey room with tea. Shortly after we said goodbye to Laxmi and started our walk back to where we left our duffles. The only communication in these parts in by a messenger, word of mouth. When we left our duffles, the plan was that some duffles would keep going to Chainpur and our trekking duffles would be left waiting for us. We also thought the rest of our team would be there waiting. But the plan has clearly changed with no message for there were no duffles where we left them and all the porters and team members gone. We aren't sure exactly where they are or when we will see the rest of our team and duffles. But for now we are staying at another homestay. We will all sleep up in the attic and enjoy a home cooked meal of Dahl baht and chapati bread with black tea. From day one this journey has been fluid and unpredictable, so we will see what tomorrow brings. Goodnight, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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