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Our Climbing Team was up early again today with Camp 1 as the goal. It was still a little windy at Base Camp but not as much as yesterday so our climbing Sherpa headed out in front of the group again to set tents at Camp 1.
We have a nice spotting scope here at Base Camp that allows me to follow the teams progress for the majority of the climb to Camp 1. It can be a beautiful dance the way you climb in the Khumbu Ice fall or an ugly representation of how not to do it. If I were a judge on Dancing with the Stars our team would be moving into next weeks competition.
Dave and Sara were very fluid in there ascent working as the lead team with Linden and Bill right behind.
As Expedition Leader Dave Hahn sets the highest standard and expectation possible of his team this making this hazardous endeavor the safest possible.
Lots of challenges exist on this push to Camp 1 which we cannot eliminate, but moving with strong technique, knowing the smartest and safest places to take a break and when to push a bit harder and faster will get you to camp in reasonable shape. We want everyone arriving at Camp 1 feeling good and with enough reserve to help your body recover after such a work out.
We received a radio call just minutes ago informing us that the climbing team is minutes away from Camp 1. Nice work team!
Till next time
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Monday, June 3, 2013
Our first encounter with snow and wind came after we hit the sack last night. Comfortably tucked away in our well anchored tents, and snug in our mounds of down that encapsulate us each night, we knew we weren't in any danger, and by Denali standards our visit with foul weather was fairly mild. But the winds still kept many of us up more than we would have liked.
So, when I checked the weather at 7:30 and didn't like what I saw, I don't think there was a one of us that missed hearing my wake up call for a
summit bid. An hour later the winds calmed and things did look better, but not perfect, so I let the team sleep in.
At breakfast we all confided that we were happy that the day did not turn out good for the summit. Even some of our studs of the trip admitted to feeling the altitude and having some fatigue left over from yesterday's efforts.
Our morning was spent building up walls to protect us from the annoying wind, then by lunch we were back in the tents enjoying the incredible warmth that the suns rays produce at this elevation. Even though outside it was chilly, inside our watch thermometer got as high as 113 degrees. OK, it was measured at the ceiling and we had all the doors closed, but though a little excessive, the heat felt wonderful soaking through our bodies.
Right now the weather looks good. The ominous cloud cap that had settled on the mountain for most of the day has disappeared and I am more optimistic than I have been. The forecast remains the same, for whatever that's worth.
I think we're all thinking that it might just happen tomorrow, but who knows. All I really know is that we're all ready if the day dawns fair. Which means that I too should probably get some sleep.
Goodnight from 17,200' camp.
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
On The Map
We finally after many days of travel, have safely arrived in the Cho Oyu Basecamp at just over 16,000'. We were happily welcomed by our wonderful support team of Lama Babu, Tendi and our cook Kumar. When we pulled into camp, we had a nice lunch with the crew, got reacquainted with all of our gear and settled in to our tents.
This afternoon we went for a nice hike to just over 17,500'. The weather is great and the conditions look good. Everybody is incredibly excited to be here- finally out of the city life and into the mountains. All is well and everyone is in great health. Looking forward to spending a couple days here continuing our acclimatization.
We'll check in another day or two.
Well, well, well! Here we are!
High Camp at 19,600 feet. And let me tell ya, it is great to be here in the thin air. It's like I tell my climbers, "The higher we go, the better we feel!" And even though it goes against physiology at altitude, I believe the mental mantra is working. Everyone is feeling great!
Tomorrow is summit day. We have a great forecast and we are keeping our fingers crossed. Most likely we will have light winds and some clouds building late afternoon. It is looking like a beautiful day. With that said, I have a challenge for you RMI blog enthusiasts, and make sure you share this challenge with as many folks you know.
On this blog post click on the comment button and place your guess. What time (Argentina Time: ART) will our team summit
Aconcagua tomorrow December 17th? Our team will be leaving high camp around 5 AM (ART).
Whoever gets the closest time will win an RMI t-shirt and baseball cap. Please include your email address along with your answer.
Again put your guess in the comment section of this blog posting only.
Wish us luck!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
Leaving the teahouse and walking through Namche in the cool morning shadows, we climbed up the west side of Namche's amphitheater past the Monastery. Walking along it's walls, painted in a deep red and lined with rows of prayer wheels, we emerged into the morning sun that was slowly creeping down the hillside. Within no time we were pulling off hats and extra layers as the sun warmed us while we hiked. Following a series of switchbacks, we eventually gained the ridge above Namche and followed it to the north, climbing about 1200' until we crossed the short dirt Syangboche airstrip, now used only periodically to transport freight.
The hillside relaxes into a broad, rolling plateau beyond and Syangboche and we made our way through thickets of juniper trees and past grazing yaks to the eastern edge where the valley falls steeply away to the Dudh Kosi raging below. From there Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam stand proudly at the head of the valley, already shrouded in morning clouds. Admiring the peaks far above us, we picked our way along the edge of the steep hillside, forcing ourselves to keep an eye on the trail as we stared up to the mountains, until we reached the Everest View Hotel, a large Japanese built hotel that even boasts pressurized rooms for guests arriving directly from Kathmandu by helicopter. Having reached it by our own two feet and feeling well acclimatized, we went straight to their patio out back and enjoyed a cup of tea with the impressive Everest panorama to stare out upon.
Further down the valley behind us the morning clouds were building and soon clouds swept over us, obscuring the views as we pulled out our jackets and quickly packing up. From the Everest View Hotel we walked through a forest of rhododendron and large moss covered boulders to the village of Khumjung - the largest in the area. Despite it's size Khumjung is the opposite of Namche, spread out across a shallow but broad valley with fields neatly tended to between the homes and a very calm and quiet. With spring arriving several Sherpa families were out sowing their fields with buckwheat, walking behind the plows pulled by yak and sowing the seeds by hand. Khumjung is also home to the Hillary School, founded in 1961 by Sir Edmund Hillary and responsible for bringing education to several generations of Sherpas. Morning classes were ending as we arrived and dozens of young Sherpa came running through the gates at full speed, almost knocking us over as we entered. After exploring the schools grounds for a bit we continued to the neighboring village of Khunde, an equally tranquil community where the Hillary Hospital sits. Seeing over 11,000 patients a year, it is the major medical facility for the area yet receives no support from the government in the process. The hospital was bustling when we arrived and we had the chance for a short tour of the small facility.
With the clouds still whipping over us, we walked back to Namche, crossing the plateau as we followed a narrow stone path that wound among the rhododendron, rocky outcroppings, and white washed chortens until we dropped into Namche on a steep trail winding straight down the hillside. We spent the afternoon sipping tea and relaxing in Namche before we depart for further up the valley tomorrow.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
The Four Day Climb June 22 - 25 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and James Bealer. The teams reached the crater rim at 5:30 am, they enjoyed clear skies and a light breeze during their climb. The route remains in good shape and teams were making good time on their descent. They were at 13,500' around 7 am heading back to Camp Muir. They will enjoy a short break at Camp Muir to refuel and repack, then descend the remaining 4.5 miles and 4,500ft to reach Paradise.
Congratulations to today's teams on reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier!
RMI Guide
Peter Whittaker and the
Four Day Summit Climb team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 5:20 am. The team is making their descent back to Camp Muir and enjoying a light wind. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford this afternoon.
The
Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons led by RMI Guide
Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 7:00 am. Pete reports clear skies on the summit and 15 mph winds. He says it is fairly warm and a really nice day to climb. The team is enjoying some time at Columbia Crest and will begin their descent to Camp Schurman around 8:00 am.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
After our rest day yesterday, we were certainly ready to bust a move this morning. Clear and cold conditions soon gave way to snow flurries and minimal visibility. We made ready, grabbed another cup of coffee and caught enough of a lull to try to carry loads higher on the mountain. Our plan was entirely dependent on conditions encountered on each stretch and despite being the first trailbreakers since the storm, we were able to kick a proud track through several feet of new snow up to
Windy Corner and make our cache. Our team opened the route up in good style and if favored by workable weather will try to push it up to 14 Camp tomorrow. Everyone is doing great and will surely enjoy a good night's sleep after a solid day in the mountains. Thanks also for the messages to the team! Keep 'em coming!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
Hello everyone,
This is
RMI Guide JJ Justman checking in. We want to let everyone following our
Mexico's Volcanoes Expedition know that we are at high camp on Ixta (14,750ft). The Team is doing fantastic. We are preparing for our summit bid tomorrow, so we are getting our water ready. We are planning on waking up around midnight and getting hot drinks going for our crew.
It is pretty unusual right now, there is a ton of snow that you don’t normally see here on Ixta, but it is actually making for some pretty nice climbing. Weather is calm there is no wind, so we will keep our fingers crossed. It’s looking like it is going to be a great day tomorrow, so stay tuned. We will check in again tomorrow and will hopefully have some great news. We are looking at a nice safe climb of Ixta.
Ciao from Mexico!
On The Map
Hello Everyone
It's incredibly beautiful, peaceful, and the mountains are grandiose. We've been very comfortable hiking each day in the sunny weather, then bundling up in our warm sleeping bags each night as the temperature drops.
Dinner is often around 7 and the menu is pretty much the same at every tea house with plenty of soups, simple pasta, rice, potatoes, and typical Nepalese Dal Bat.
After dinner we relax and have a brief review of the day ahead and then it's off to bed.
The team hiked up Kala Patar this afternoon to get a better view of Everest which didn’t disappoint!
Spirits are high as we push closer to basecamp and if the weather cooperates, we should arrive tomorrow. Hopefully we’ll be able to get updates out, but in the off chance we can’t, the team will be at Everest Base camp for two nights.
There’s no cell service or WiFi most likely.
That's all for now
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
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Happy day before your BIRTHDAY, Bill, at the top of the world (almost). Stay safe and strong. Thinking of you and Sara and your guides and Sherpas all the time. Much love.
Posted by: Mom on 4/22/2011 at 8:08 am
So impressed! stay safe!
Posted by: Hannah Woodward on 4/22/2011 at 7:22 am
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