As planned, the climbing team was up at midnight and on the trail shortly after 1 AM. There were stars and a big bright moon, but plenty of clouds as well. It was tough to know just what we could expect in the weather department. Yesterday afternoon and evening had produced a couple of inches of new snow on the ground, starting just uphill from our camp. We set out walking in it. The best thing was that there was no wind. We made pretty good time, stopping roughly every hour to rest. Predictably, it was tough going. It was dark, unrelentingly steep, and progressively colder as we ascended. We were breaking altitude records for a number of the team. But we had extremely good and capable help from our guide team. Freddy Kileo's crew of Vendelin, Francis, Eliapenda and Kundasai, along with Oswald, really came through. Everyone felt challenged by the climb, but the team rallied in the face of all the difficulty and discomfort. We pulled up onto Stella Point on the crater rim just at sunrise, which was stunning. But at Stella, we also got hit with some pretty mean wind gusts. We pushed on toward Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa, and conditions improved. We weren't alone up there on this beautiful day, but we weren't paying too much attention to other teams. There was excitement and pride in the fact that our entire team had made it to the top. We shot some happy pics and shook hands and hugged. Chris and Jeffrey Hendricks celebrated their one year anniversary on the summit.
We didn't spend too long at 19,340 ft above sea level. It was cold and we wanted to get down to more abundant oxygen. Leaving the top at 7:30, we were back down to Barafu Camp by 10:30. We brunched, packed our bags and got on the trail again. In the course of the afternoon we dropped another 5,000 vertical feet to 10,000 at the Mweka Camp. We are back in the giant heather zone and looking forward to finishing the descent tomorrow.
Best Regards
RMI Guides Dave Hahn
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Geoff Schellens led the Four Day Summit Climb to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Pete reported blustery, clear, and cold conditions on the upper mountain. The teams will spend some time on top before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. We look forward to seeing the teams in Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations on a great climb!
The guides at RMI really make the difference here! We were fortunate to have Pete and Chase who pushed us along the way and made sure that we were doing all the right things to make the summit! Thanks Guys!
Posted by: Anil on 8/14/2013 at 11:26 am
Congratulations gang! I hated to ‘bail-out’ but conditioning is the key to keeping a group on-schedule and I personally didn’t feel I had it yet. No worries… Next time! Thanks Pete for your most professional guidance…and to Chase for yours. Again thanks!... Congratulations…and ‘See you on the mountain!’ Cheers!
Posted by: Dave McLaughlin on 8/13/2013 at 12:28 pm
Early this morning two members of our Sherpa team left Everest Base Camp en route to Camp 1. The plan was for them to arrive before the climbers and set up tents for the group. The Jet Streams winds were camped above the mountain and word on the Base Camp "street" was that several tents from other teams had been destroyed at Camp 1 due to big winds. Our climbing team headed out of Base Camp but turned back before reaching Camp 1. The climbing Sherpa reached Camp 1 and secured our gear before descending back to Base Camp also. It is even windy here at Base Camp now.
The team is feeling well, resting and will try again tomorrow to reach Camp 1.
Let's see what happens.
Til next time,
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
It looks to my friends like I’m sitting at home in Marina del Rey, CA, but in reality I’m with you, heart and soul.
It’s my secret.
Stay safe and the best of luck to all of you!
Wolf
Posted by: wolf schmidt on 4/23/2011 at 9:17 am
Sara and Bill,
We continue to be amazed at what you two have accomplished. You all are in our thougths and prayers as you take on your next challenge. We’ll know not to take either of you on in a horseshoe match upon your return! Stay strong and enjoy your incredible journey. Larry, Virginia, Matthew and Andrew
Posted by: Virginia Shackelford on 4/21/2011 at 3:46 pm
Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from the Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Team. I am calling from Gorak Shep up here at about 17,000’ along the edges of the Khumbu Glacier. This is the last town before we reach Basecamp tomorrow.
It’s an absolutely gorgeous night here in the Himalaya. We had a wonderful day today we left Lobuche early this morning and walked up the valley crossing over the Tonkhu Glacier which is a little tributary glacier from the main Khumbu Glacier. We arrived into Gorak Shep about mid morning.
Our main objective for the day was a climb of Kala Patar. It’s across the valley from Everest about 18,500’. After arriving in Gorak Shep we grabbed some tea, filled our water bottles and set off. The team climbed phenomenally well. It was really quite impressive. All the time we spent acclimatizing certainly paid off in spades.
We got up to Kala Patar by mid day and we just had incredible views across the valley of Everest. We could see the summit, Hillary Step, the south summit, all the way down to the South Col. Looking down on the upper portion of the Lhotse face. We could also see over to Lolok Pass over to Xingatzi which is sitting in Tibet. It was pretty neat to be able to see over the boarder. We could also see down the valley toward Ama Dablam and the peaks that we walked by the first few days of our trek.
So after hanging out up there for a little bit we motored back down to our tea house here in Gorak Shep and spent the afternoon just hanging out and resting and adjusting to the altitude. 17,000’ is definitely pretty high and we are all feeling it. Again the team is doing really well and we are all having a great time.
The plan tomorrow is to leave Gorak Shep and walk the final couple of miles into Basecamp and set up shop there for the next couple of nights.
We will try to push out some photos. The connection this high up the valley is spotty at best but I’ll do my best to get some photos and more write ups out to you guys. If not we’ll check in tomorrow from Basecamp. Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from Gorak Shep
Lisa gave me this link to your blog. Really enjoying following along. It brings back great memories of my trek into base camp. I gave Lisa a prayer flag that I brought back from Nepal to hang at your house until your return. I’ll be praying to the weather gods for good weather for an ascent. Keep safe and warm. Can’t wait to hear more.
Clay
Posted by: Clay Rolader on 4/3/2011 at 5:41 am
Hi Tim! I have finally been found by the chest cold that everyone has had. Papa and I are a few days into it. I am totally living through your notes and pictures! I can imagine the cold clear air as you take each rest step. Sounds like you are with a wonderful group! I just adore Linden’s descriptions. I almost feel as if I were there. Please thank him for that. Honey, I love you and miss your sweet face every day. I go in the closet and smell your shirts! Pathetic, I know! I don’t care! I will be paying my bills sometime today, and then looking at making your boat and building payments. Every one is making this as easy for me as possible. Tom has checked in, skip and cass have both been here. You are missed! I love you! A&F Deb
It feels good to be in the mountains! Our team is nestled in the Altzomoni Hut near 12,000 feet! Of course we enjoyed a great breakfast fit for Kings and Queens before we arrived here. After a brief stop to do some last minute food shopping we arrived at camp early afternoon.
The rest of our day was filled with final packing preparations for our endeavor to make high camp on Ixta tomorrow. Everyone is doing fantastic. The weather is a little dreary but it's not stopping us from having fun! And just because we are in the mountains doesn't mean we have to act like it. Instead of freeze dried food, Solveig and I prepared a fresh Mexican carne asada dinner for the team. The fresh guacamole was a hit. It was devoured in seconds!
RMI Guides JJ Justman and Solveig Waterfall
Finally, we headed for the hills! A quick breakfast at San Luis and an easy checkout (not necessarily the norm) made for a smooth start to another busy day cruising around Ecuador. Right off the bat we headed for the Otavalo marketplace, world famous for its street food and local handicrafts. It being Saturday, the market frenzy was at a climax and the gang enjoyed a unique opportunity to experience Ecuadorian and more specially Otavalan culture. Not wanting to risk a potential intestinal disruption, we decided to grab lunch at the Cafe de la Vaca on our way over to Cayambe. After hiking for about an hour we arrived at the Refugio high on Cayambe's flank and settled in. Freshly baked pizzas for dinner were a welcome change to typical mountain food. Everybody is bracing for a rough first night above 15,000'. We'll check in tomorrow and let you know how the first night went.
All for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Hey everyone this is JJ Justman with RMI. We did a carry to Camp 2 at 18,000'. The team is doing great. But more importantly, I think all of our friends and loved ones would like to hear from us on Christmas, so I will start with my wishes. (Click on audio to hear from the team.)
RMI Guide JJ Justman & Team
JJ Justman and team send their holiday wishes to family and friends.
Cindee….Merry Christmas Cindee!!! Better late then never. It took me a little while to figure this blog thing out(I guess your niece is right). Thank you for my gifts. I love them bunches. I was not expecting the one thing. That would have been enough. Wishing you and your team a Happy New year and a safe trip. Will talk to you when you are off the mountian. GO TEAM GO!!!!!
Big Sis
Posted by: Sandy on 12/26/2013 at 2:53 pm
Hey Bro! Good to hear from you. We’re all really proud of you. Huddy wanted me to remind you that 3WC will always be behind you! Merry Christmas,
It was still cloudy at high camp this morning, despite predictions for clearing. But looking up at the summit of Mt Shinn or the higher ridges of Vinson (the summit is not visible from high camp) it was obvious that no wind was in the mix. We decided to go for the top. We were out of camp by 9:15 AM. The cloud cover actually kept us from overheating in the first few hours. The team made steady progress- everybody was strong and using their best energy saving techniques. We all found the summit ridge to be a magical place. We had no big views, since by that point we were in the cloud tops, but that meant we concentrated our attention on the close in views of rock and snow formations. We hit the top at 4:30 PM and were quite surprised at how comfortable it was to sit up there, with zero wind and strong sun shining on the clouds around us.
We enjoyed a half hour on top and then began our careful descent, reaching high camp at 7:25 PM. This allowed us to eat dinner and get to bed at a respectable hour (which has been rare). Good sleep is what we need now to make tomorrow's descent to Basecamp manageable and safe.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
At 5 AM there were already some signs of the storm coming in up high but thankfully it was calm where we were. We left camp at 7:30 and gained 1,000' in 90 minuntes. We put up camp at 11,000' right next to Dom's RMI team and dug in deep. By midday it was snowing and the wind was coming up. We sat out the afternoon in tents. Dinner was in our dining tent in reasonably good shelter as it got a bit meaner outside. We saw a number of unsuccessful teams passing through headed down.
Day three of the AMGA Rock Guide Course started a little less comfortably than we had hoped. Our course’s venue was located in the heart of central Oregon and early November often offers a mixed bag of weather. For the four of us who were camping near the park, this meant we awoke to find ourselves shivering and scraping a light layer of frost off of the inside of our tents.
As mountain guides, we often deal with inclement weather, but even our familiarity with discomfort didn’t stop all the grumbling that morning as we made coffee. Luckily for us, our instructor team was equally apprehensive about climbing in freezing temperatures and had called a quick audible. The day’s goals shifted to learning rescue techniques and skills in the ‘comfort’ of a covered cooking space.
After just finishing my first year with RMI, I was excited to see how our in-house rescue training would compare to the official AMGA equivalent. As the morning progressed, the instructor team grew equally excited as it became clear that much of the rescue curriculum was review, albeit, made a bit more difficult by the vertical orientation and the small working zones that the rock environment demands. Despite the cold temps and biting wind, we were able to fly through hauling techniques and knot passes. That morning’s training concretely highlighted for me how well RMI trains their guides. Because of our familiarity with many of the techniques, we were able to open the book and learn a couple new tricks and subtleties that may have otherwise been lost on a less experienced crew.
Once we had mastered new slack management tricks and practiced the variety of haul systems, we changed venues and tried to warm ourselves up with some rope ascending. Ascending is one of those skills that any basic crevasse rescue course will teach you, yet even our most experienced guides were able to walk away with a new trick or two. This again speaks to the level of experience and expertise that our instructors brought to the course.
The day’s training finished with a variety of skills that we will be tested on in our next course. A large part of the AMGA course curriculum is a series of examinations that aspiring guides go through to prove their proficiency. For many, these examinations can be stressful and difficult. However, this course has shown me that as long as I continue to work with the incredible fellow guides and instructors that make up the AMGA and RMI, this will be a process I am excited to continue on.
With my first year at RMI finished and my first AMGA course completed, I am more enthused than ever at the prospect of continuing my education. Without a doubt, my most profound take away from this course has been how much of a pleasure it is to work with professional mountain guides. In all my time in the mountains, I’ve never found a group who equals the enthusiasm and commitment to perfecting their craft that RMI guides have.
Finally, I want to echo Seth’s thanks to RMI for investing in their guides and allowing these courses to happen. I’m already looking forward to my next AMGA course and my next season with RMI!
_____
Caleb Ladue just finished his first season guiding with RMI. He grew up in Vermont, where he learned to love the mountains for all that they offered, and that passion has taken him throughout the US and to the Peruvian Andes. He'll be hanging his hat in Jackson Hole this winter, and will return to Mt. Rainier in the Spring, excited to share his passion with many more climbers!
What a great accomplishment! Congratulations to everyone. Happy one year, Chris and Jeff! I’m trying some wedding cake in remembrance.
Posted by: Joan on 9/22/2013 at 9:31 pm
So awesome! Chris and Jeff, an anniversary to remember! love, margit
Posted by: Margit Liesche on 9/22/2013 at 6:46 pm
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