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Aconcagua: Justman and Team arrive back at High Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

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Hey everyone this is JJ Justman with Team Two on Aconcagua. I believe you all heard through my last dispatch that we were on the summit of Aconcagua. I just want to report that everyone is safe and sound. We are here at high camp. Our work is not yet, at least not for the guides. We are busy getting water and snow melting to get everyone rehydrated and refueled. We had a long day, probably had to say that it was one of my toughest climbs in regards to the weather. It was cold and windy and just took a lot out of us. The team did an absolutely fantastic job! I’m really proud of everyone they did a great job climbing and we are really happy to be back at camp. We are going to be heading back to Base Camp tomorrow. That’s a big day of carrying heavy loads. We do have some porters coming up to help out, which is good. We will touch base tomorrow when we get back into Base Camp. We will get into some of those nice luxuries that we have been missing for the past week or so. Thanks for following along everyone, we will touch base tomorrow. Bye Bye!


JJ Justman calling in from High Camp

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats Kim and team!!! So excited for you. What an amazing way to close out 2013!

In awe,
fran, dan and sophie

Posted by: fran on 12/31/2013 at 9:01 am

Congrats JJ on another summit - I had a great time down there last year!!!!!!

Posted by: Jeff Hall on 12/31/2013 at 8:18 am

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Journey into Basecamp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 13,800'

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Hey, hey, hey it's RMI Aconcagua Team 2 on the way! What a gorgeous day to make our final journey into Basecamp. We had a thrilling mule ride to get us across the Vacas River and then it was smooth sailing into camp. A lot can be told of how our climbers are doing as they near 14,000 feet. And they are doing great! Every one of them. Now in Basecamp we are setting up our new home and simply relaxing. We earned it. Tomorrow we will have a rest day. So stay tuned for Leah and JJ's secret quesadilla recipe! RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Cindee— Hope you’re getting acclimated, resting, and enjoying the view!  Since you’ve been out a few days, thought you and the group would appreciate some light news from this week. For starters, Robin Wright (Princess Bride actress) just got engaged to boyfriend Ben Foster… Donations have exceeded $100,000 to help a NY blind man keep the guide dog who rescued him from a potentially fatal subway fall….Former NBA star Dennis Rodman arrived in North Korea on Thursday to meet leader Kim Jong Un and finish plans to bring 12 ex-NBA players to Pyongyang for a January exhibition for the leader’s birthday….. and Justin Bieber says he’s “retiring” (yay!). How’s that for an update? Hope you have a great weekend!

Hugs, Rebekah

Posted by: Rebekah Mitchell on 12/20/2013 at 3:51 pm

KK—Mules, stars,hiking and mexican food?  You’re living the dream, my friend.  Lots of luck to you and your fellow team members.  Will continue watching your trek. Love ya.

Posted by: Helen on 12/20/2013 at 12:57 pm

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Vinson Massif: Starting slow… Tapering off

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

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Our first Vinson climb of 2013 is not quite off the ground yet. The team successfully negotiated the airports of the world to assemble in Punta Arenas in the South end of Chile, and we've gone through several meetings, gear checks and briefings. We've shared a few great meals and some walks around town. We've packed our bags and weighed them and consigned them to our logistical partner in this endeavor, ALE, for loading onto the Ilyushin 76 jet transport. Normally, we'd be savoring a final night indoors before the journey to less comfortable regions of the Antarctic interior. But we've learned that stormy weather is hampering flight operations at Union Glacier. The needed supply flights are backed up a bit and we can't possibly get in within the next few days. We choose to greet this news in a positive light... It gives us the chance to be tourists in Patagonia for a few days. Stand by to see what we get up to. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Dave and Team -

Hi Guys!  I will be following you on your journey to get an idea of what to expect when I arrive there in a couple of weeks.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 11/22/2013 at 6:52 pm

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Mt. Elbrus: Waterfall & Team Hit by a Weather Storm

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside

Elevation: 11,200'

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Well hello again from Camp 1. We're still waiting for some good weather. Last night was a wet, windy and wild one. At about 10pm the side of my tent hit me in the face and woke me up. The next several hours were very blustery. At around 1am the wind died completely and the thunder and lightning started. As the flashes got closer and closer the wind picked up and blew the thunderhead out. Then it started to snow. By the time we started breakfast everything at our elevation had chilled out. It was a hilarious discussion as we related our tent experiences from the night. There was a large cap on Mt. Elbrus but everyone was still game to go for an acclimatization climb. We had to wait for one more snow squall to move through but we made it to 14,420' a new altitude record for some folks. Once we got back to camp it was almost dinner time. We're all done with dinner now and Pete and I have cleaned up the pots and put the stoves away for the night. We're anxiously awaiting tomorrow as there is another storm forecasted but we're hoping it passes us by. We want to climb! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

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James and team

Sure sounds dramatic over and up there!  Very glad to hear everyone is safe.  Looking foward to hearing the team continue ascendig as the weather permits.  Be safe!

(Heading out now to mix with the Harley riders who have ridden into town to celebrate the company,s 110th year.  Quite loud and exciting!)

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/1/2013 at 5:09 am

Hi everyone & Doug
I’m sorry your weather has not cooperated.The forecast for 5000m & 5600m for Monday looks clear & sunny. I hope you can summit Monday.Stay safe & take pictures.
Lorraine

Posted by: Lorraine Quinn on 8/31/2013 at 10:43 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren’s Team at High Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

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Sunday, June 16th, 2013 Holy cow we made it up! Leaving early, we passed RMI 4 at the base of the fixed lines, high fiving as we continued our climb. The team did a remarkable job making it to high camp in fine time. The West Buttress proper is the most fun part of the route and earns the namesake title. We cruised up to our cache at the base of Washburn's Thumb and barely slowed down with the extra weight. Arriving at camp didn't even require a coat once we stopped. The weather is perfect now and all we need is one more day and I'm sure the team will make it to the top. We are ready to outchill weather if it comes, but hopefully we can get one more day of this fantastic weather. Send us all good weather vibes if you please and we will check in tomorrow. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Sweet they way i read this is you summited on an absolutley gorgeous day.  Way to go.

Posted by: Terry Kramer on 6/18/2013 at 1:24 pm

The KEI team is cheering you on.  Can’t wait to see the pics.  Barbara you are awesome and put us all to shame.  We are so very proud f you.

Posted by: Terry Kramer on 6/17/2013 at 9:55 am

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Mt. Rainier: September 15th Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb September 12 - 15 led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team reported calm winds and cold temperatures with high cirrus clouds above. Shortly after 9 am PT they began their descent from the crater rim. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford later today. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
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Billy, Nick and Robby, Thanks for making our summit possible. Getting there was my most amazing physical accomplishment and I owe it to your outstanding guidance. I was happy with my strength and endurance, but not my balance and I wasn’t a big fan of the crevices. At first I thought this would be it and it took me a few days to be able to walk easily again, but now I am getting juiced about another challenge. I did write up about a six page summary and am putting together a picture book as wel. Billy, I especially owe my summit to you and really appreciate all you did to keep pushing me and keeping me in one piece. Heart surgery is sure easier than mountaineering. Good luck and thanks. Blue Bob

Posted by: Blue Bob Robison on 9/29/2012 at 6:38 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Moving on Up to 11K Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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There were a lot more clouds around when we woke at 5 AM at 9,500 ft on the Kahiltna. As we ate and packed, there was a hint of snow, but we still could see a good distance down the glacier and there was a sense that we were just getting the normal flow of weather that likes to hang about 10,000 ft Kahiltna Pass -the divide of the Alaska Range in these parts. We were roped and plodding into the murk by ten minutes after seven. As with the past two days, we wore snowshoes even though the surface was frozen up and supportable. Snow fell from time to time in our first hour of moving toward the Pass, but then we did climb out of the flow of cloud when we turned the corner at the top end of the glacier. As expected, the last pull into camp was a tough one with our heavy loads, but everyone did well and seemed quite satisfied to arrive at 11,000 ft at 11 in the morning. We were actually surprised to see a few dozen tents around camp, having gotten used to not seeing so many people in the last few days. It makes sense though as a number of teams had come on the mountain in the days before we'd gotten on and we all tend to slow things down when we get to 11,000 ft. With that in mind, we'll attempt to carry a load of gear and food to around Windy Corner tomorrow but then we'll come back down for a second and most likely a third night at 11K. We want our bodies to catch up with the altitude before we make the big jump to 14,000 ft. We did plenty of catching up with friends and fellow guides during the day at this impromptu reunion, but we were particularly pleased to spend a little time with Mike Walter and his team as they came into camp in late afternoon, freshly down from hitting the top yesterday. Clouds came and went through much of the afternoon and evening, and now at 10:30 PM, it is snowing lightly with no wind. That blanket of cloud tends to keep the air temperature a little higher than it would otherwise be at such a lofty altitude. We'll hope for reasonably clear weather in the morning and that we can go for a climb. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Cathy!!! we are so proud of you!!!! keep climbing and enjoy this once in a life experience!!!

love Kae and Caroline

Posted by: Kae on 7/3/2012 at 7:11 pm

Hi Brian, It’s great to look at the beautiful snowy mountains that you are climbing, while we are in a triple digit heat wave in Hotlanta! Hope you and the team have a great climbing day tomorrow.  Happy 4th of July!
Love, Inez

Posted by: Inez Bulatao on 7/3/2012 at 6:54 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take a Weather Day

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 6:39pm PT

It sounded like rain drumming off the tent at a consistent staccato all night, into this morning. The problem was that there was frost in the tent and the temp was below zero. So was it rain? Nope. Graupel. Lots of graupel. As well as snow. And wind to move it. We had planned to rest anyways and that was perfect for today. We had a big bagel and smoked salmon brunch, then tucked back into tents to stay warm and dry.

The snow is anywhere from ankle to well over knee deep through camp. The wind have started to subside some this afternoon, but our world is still really white, with snow filtering down from the sky.

We'll do dinner and some warm tea and crawl into our sleeping bags to see what tomorrow brings.

RMI Guide Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team

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Hoping the storm passes and you have your days to move up and continue on safely. Keep the spirits up and enjoy every moment! Looking forward to the updates and we love you! - Katie & Sean

Posted by: Katie Baskin on 5/29/2021 at 8:07 am

Thank you for the opportunity to learn about graupel!!  What crazy weather you have had.  I am throwing all my weight behind good weather thoughts for you and your expeditions all.

Posted by: Bethany on 5/28/2021 at 3:05 pm

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Grom & Team Summit Island Peak

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 20,300'

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Hello everybody, this is Casey Grom checking in again from the Mount Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Climb. We are all currently safely back at base camp here on Island Peak after a successful but long, hard day. It was a pretty tough night. We actually had quite a bit of snow overnight, which made the trail difficult but fine and pretty slick so it was hard going for most folks for the first few hours. Luckily the wind died down and we were able to get three of our climbers to the top of Island Peak. The other three- a couple of them climbed, one stayed in camp to be moral support. The other two, I think they realized it was a little too much for them. It was a big day. It took about eight hours for the team to reach the summit after almost going non-stop with just a few breaks. We are all back at camp, everyone's happy and doing well. We just packed up and we're going to drop down to Chukung... (transmission lost) RMI Guide Casey Grom


RMI Guide Casey Grom checking in after Island Peak climb.

On The Map

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Thanks for posting useful information about the island peak climbing. I read your complete blog and got i lot of information for my future trek plans. I really got to know about some interesting facts which I was not aware of. I have also got some useful insights from ExpedReview as well.

Thanks for posting wonderful content. Keep posting such types of blogs.

Posted by: John Andrew on 10/26/2023 at 3:19 am

Congratulations, everybody!

Posted by: Jan on 4/5/2014 at 9:25 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Retrieve Gear

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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This morning was the first in a while that we weren't getting up early, desperate for conditions to be favorable. We got the stoves started around nine, which sounds late and lazy, except in these parts, the sun doesn't get around the mountain until 9:30. It was socked in and cloudy for our breakfast, and then snowing again, but without any wind. We were set to do our "back carry" -dropping down to pick up our cache from the other day, but we'd also been in touch with Pete VanDeventer and knew his team was descending and would pop out of the clouds any minute. It made sense to greet his gang and to exchange notes at 14,200 before going to get our carry done. It was fun to see their team, flush with success and excited to nearly be done with their climb. In the early afternoon, although it was still snowing, we set off into the murk to find our 13,600 ft cache. The cache was undisturbed, which was a relief. Guess we'd buried it all too deeply for the Ravens. It took just over an hour to make it back up to camp with the cargo. People retreated to their tents for a snooze while a few of us built a new kitchen-dining complex. The clouds began to drop and the sun got shining brightly for dinner and the few remaining hours of the day -it ducks behind the West Buttress at 9 PM and the temperature seems to drop about fifty degrees in a few minutes at that point. But we were treated to great views of Mounts Foraker and Hunter sticking out from the solid base of clouds spread below us. The forecasts still call for snow, but luckily they aren't always right in just how much snow we'll get and at which elevation it will fall. A calm day tomorrow for our carry to 16,200 ft would be greatly appreciated. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

thank you for diligently posting on your team’s progress. best of luck on your summit bid, and hoping for your safe descent.

Posted by: michelle on 7/9/2013 at 11:10 am

Good luck.  Great reading about your progress. 

Rachael
ABQ Uptown 985/NM/CO

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 7/8/2013 at 2:47 pm

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