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Monday, July 15th, 2013
It was still very calm at 14K camp this morning, but it was obvious that the next storm system was moving in. So we moved out. At 9:15 we pulled out of Genet Basin and dragged our sleds to Windy Corner. The going was easy as others had plowed a nice trough through the recent snows. There has to be some advantage to being the very last team to come off the mountain. We made it around the corner, down the Polo Field, across Squirrel Hill and down Motorcycle in about two hours. At 11,000' we dug up our cache of food, snowshoes, and miscellaneous gear and took about an hour to reorganize. Then it was down to the main Kahiltna Glacier in excellent condition for travel. It only took us two hours to make the bottom of Ski Hill. By that point, however, glacier surface conditions were getting soggy and slushy -as expected. So we built camp to wait for the cool of night before going the last few miles to the airstrip. We need the freeze to firm up about a thousand snow bridges over crevasses between here and Basecamp. It is a relief to be low again. Our first time in over two weeks to be taking in so much oxygen with each breath. And we aren't even remotely cold after conditioning to the frigid heights of Denali. There is a downside, of course... there are smells again. The one in the guide tent has been described as "hot garbage."
Perhaps we will make it to Talkeetna and showers tomorrow morning.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Hello from Mexico City,
Tonight the team arrived, all with the same number of bags they left the states with and ready to go. We had a great intro dinner at a classic Centro Historico restaurant and retired to our rooms to get a good night's sleep before leaving the city tomorrow. Off to a good start down here and we'll check in from La Malinche tomorrow.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Hello again Everyone,
Today we woke to beautiful clear skies and astounding views right out our tea house windows. There are huge mountains in all directions and it’s very surreal being here at 11,000' and seeing just how incredible the Himalayas look in person.
This morning we had a leisurely breakfast and then went on a short hike to access a view point where we could see Everest, Lhotse (4th tallest) and Ama Dablam. Everyone enjoyed the views and spent time taking it all in. We then headed to a nearby mountaineering museum which was also throughly enjoyed.
The team then did a little exploring on our own and eventually met up at the amazing “Eat Smart” cafe where we had fresh juices and a delicious lunch with fresh salads, a rarity in this remote part of the world.
The remainder of our rest day was spent shopping and getting knock-off down pants to keep us comfortable and warm when we get higher in mountains.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the puffy pants crew!
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Everest Base Camp Trek, March 9, 2025
Posted by: Mike King, Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,200'
The team has been battling some weather on the Aconcagua as of late, but this morning we awoke to crisp, dry air and snowcapped views on our horizon. Today is a rest day after our hearty carry up to Camp 2 yesterday. We will enjoy our coffee, well deserved naps, and lots of tent time to rest our bodies and minds for the move to Camp 2 tomorrow.
Wish us luck!
The Five Day Climb August 9 - 13 led by RMI Guide Joe Hoch reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team enjoyed a spectacular morning on the mountain with very little wind and clear skies. After soaking in the views from the summit the team will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. They will conclude their program this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Such great news! Hooray!
Posted by: Suzanne Ryning on 8/13/2019 at 9:09 am
Congratulations team, great to hear!
Posted by: Kelly Tipson on 8/13/2019 at 8:42 am
Posted by: JJ Justman
Categories: Aconcagua
For those of you that know me, you are aware of my love affair with Argentina and Aconcagua. For those of you that don’t know, let me explain. It was 1998 when I first visited Argentina and it didn’t take but a few hours from stepping off of the plane to say to myself, "I love this place!"
The first thing you notice while in Mendoza is how beautiful the city and the countryside are. As you walk along the wide city sidewalks that are lined with cafe after cafe, you can’t help but sit down to order a double espresso and watch people. As you sit and watch you notice a different atmosphere that rules Argentina as a whole. That is, people enjoy living! At one table there is a group of businessmen taking a break from work. At another table sit a group of old men in a heated debate over Argentina’s favorite sport, futbol.
Of course coffee isn’t the only thing consumed in Mendoza. The region is best known for its wine production, as Argentina is now regarded as one of the largest producers of quality wine in the world. That leads me to another reason I absolutely love Argentina: no, not the wine per se, but the amazing food and restaurants that inhabit the culture. Whether it be the amazing steak that leaves every single person saying the same thing – "that’s the best steak I have ever had!" – or authentic Italian cuisine, if you are a "foodie" like me Argentina is amazing. Sure, Aconcagua is supposed to be all about climbing; however, as an international adventure, an expedition to Argentina could not start or finish any better than in a city like Mendoza. Now, for the climbing part:
Aconcagua of course is one of the seven summits and at just under 23,000 feet it is the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas. It is the perfect mountain for climbers who want to get a start at expedition style climbing. The climb starts in the rugged, high mountain desert landscape where temperatures can be very warm. Mules carry our climbing gear the three day trek to base camp at Plaza Argentina. That means a couple of things: One, you get to trek into base camp with a light backpack; two, you get to hang out with the cowboys, also known as Arrieros, every night at the campfire; and perhaps most importantly, you get to experience a true Argentinian Asado as the cowboys cook steak and chicken over the campfire under the stars.
Once you arrive at base camp, most climbers are pleasantly surprised at how civilized it is. It’s very reminiscent of Everest Base Camp in that there are dining tents, toilets, and even showers. Since acclimatization is very important on such a high mountain, it certainly is nice to have some creature comforts and incredible support from a great base camp staff. The climbing above base camp is physically demanding. When I first climbed "The Stone Sentinel" in 1998 we only made two camps above base camp. Today RMI makes three camps. Camp One sits at 16,200 feet. Camp Two at 18,000 feet and Camp Three at 19,600 feet. With 20 summits of Aconcagua I have seen the success rate go way up due to the more strategic nature of making three camps. This acclimatization schedule helps to make our climbing teams much stronger, but the climb is still a lot of work!
I would love to explain to you how amazing the world looks up high on summit day, but it’s like every mountain I climb: you cannot fully explain the beauty of the high alpine world until you see it for yourself. As you stand on her summit and gaze out, you see a world that never ends; mountains beyond mountains as far as the eye can see. While you contemplate, it doesn’t take too long to begin to smile knowing that as soon as you get down, you are returning to the beautiful city of Mendoza to enjoy the hot weather and swimming pools, after an evening of dining once again on the most amazing food you’ll ever have in your life, that is!
Aconcagua of course is one of the seven summits and at just under 23,000 feet it is the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas. It is the perfect mountain for climbers who want to get a start at expedition style climbing. The climb starts in the rugged, high mountain desert landscape where temperatures can be very warm. Mules carry our climbing gear the three day trek to base camp at Plaza Argentina. That means a couple of things: One, you get to trek into base camp with a light backpack; two, you get to hang out with the cowboys, also known as Arrieros, every night at the campfire; and perhaps most importantly, you get to experience a true Argentinian Asado as the cowboys cook steak and chicken over the campfire under the stars.
Once you arrive at base camp, most climbers are pleasantly surprised at how civilized it is. It’s very reminiscent of Everest Base Camp in that there are dining tents, toilets, and even showers. Since acclimatization is very important on such a high mountain, it certainly is nice to have some creature comforts and incredible support from a great base camp staff. The climbing above base camp is physically demanding. When I first climbed "The Stone Sentinel" in 1998 we only made two camps above base camp. Today RMI makes three camps. Camp One sits at 16,200 feet. Camp Two at 18,000 feet and Camp Three at 19,600 feet. With 20 summits of Aconcagua I have seen the success rate go way up due to the more strategic nature of making three camps. This acclimatization schedule helps to make our climbing teams much stronger, but the climb is still a lot of work!
I would love to explain to you how amazing the world looks up high on summit day, but it’s like every mountain I climb: you cannot fully explain the beauty of the high alpine world until you see it for yourself. As you stand on her summit and gaze out, you see a world that never ends; mountains beyond mountains as far as the eye can see. While you contemplate, it doesn’t take too long to begin to smile knowing that as soon as you get down, you are returning to the beautiful city of Mendoza to enjoy the hot weather and swimming pools, after an evening of dining once again on the most amazing food you’ll ever have in your life, that is!
RMI Guides Casey Grom and Adam Knoff are leading our first Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir of the 2013 season. Today they are spending the day at Rainier Basecamp preparing for their next five days on Mt. Rainier. Team introductions, gear organizing, and technical training is on their agenda.
While the team was testing out their boots on a hike from Basecamp, they ran into Lou Whittaker, the man who started RMI 44 years ago! Some stories were told and photos were taken, then it was back to training.
The team is anxious to head up on the mountain tomorrow!
Take it all in. Savor each moment. Fill your senses with the beautiful creation. Enjoy your climb, enjoy each other, enjoy the views.
Posted by: Craig and Marilyn Miller on 5/21/2013 at 9:22 am
Just saw the pictures! How awesome Jared!!
Posted by: Kris Reene on 5/20/2013 at 4:52 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,000'
Groundhog Day here at Aconcagua Camp 2. A windy night and windy day here confirmed our decision to wait a day before moving up. It's hard to spend two days just hanging in tents though, and the group is psyched to move tomorrow and get closer to our objective. As the forecasts keep coming in (we get pretty OCD as guides right around now) things are looking great for Sunday! Onward and upward,
RMI Guides Pete, Leon, Mike, and team
On The Map
Wow! Mountain Climbing is an incredible feat! Godspeed Joe & George!
Posted by: Daniel Nolan on 2/2/2013 at 7:42 pm
Hang in there team. Relax! When it is right you will move on and summit when it is time.
Love you Tony and David!
Posted by: Laura Rito on 2/2/2013 at 5:22 pm
We are on the Mountain!
After landing at Basecamp our team loaded our sleds, grabbed our packs and we were on our way. We moved during the night to 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier, located at the base of Ski Hill. Everyone is doing well. The weather has been beautiful- nice and warm during the day and good travel conditions at night.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Best of luck to your climbing crew. Look forward to your posts and pictures.
Posted by: Mike Morrissey on 6/17/2012 at 8:25 pm
WOW!I am impressed and envious Lee. Enjoy yourself and be safe. I look forward hearing your story when we run.
Posted by: Bill R on 6/17/2012 at 9:08 am
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Antarctica didn't let us go easily. It was 1:00 AM when we saw the definitively-Russian Ilyushin lumbering through the Antarctic sky. The temperature was some 20 below, and the 30 knot winds made it feel much, much colder, ripping heat from exposed flesh with efficiency. But, for a huge jet landing on a strip of blue ice, a strong headwind is a nice thing, helping to slow the giant bird down.
With a delicate landing that defied its massive bulk, the Ilyushin touched down to many a camera-shutter click and loud cheer. After days of delay, strikes, broken parts, and other issues, we were all ready to move onward. After unloading many tons of Jet A aviation fuel in 55 gallon drums, the ALE team called us all to board. A few moments later, doors were closed, engines spun up, and the pilots lifted us off the runway as smoothly as they had landed; it was hard to tell we had even gone airborne. While on the flight down we all were wired with excitement and slept but little, this flight was the inverse: tired from days of climbing, we all quickly succumbed to the late hour and fell asleep. In hindsight, the bit of wine and beer we had at Union before leaving might have helped a wee bit, too.
At 7:00 AM, another masterful landing thumped us down on the tarmac in Punta Arenas. As we exited the hulking Ilyushin, we could all smell it and see it: Green things. Trees, plants, animals. Life. After 3 weeks on the ice - in a land of intense beauty, but almost completely devoid of life - it was a welcome sight. The idea of a bed rather than a Thermarest, and walls instead of nylon, wasn't bad either. So, we quickly headed to to the hotel.
It always amazes me how quickly we transition in these modern times. It wasn't that long ago that expeditions wound down slowly, and reintegration into "normal" life took time. The body, and more importantly the mind, was granted simply through logistics the luxury of moving from the stark mental and physical environment of the expedition back to the frenetic pace of life in a slow manner. Today, it's anything but slow. Just hours ago we sat on a glacier on the bottom of the world, climbing mountains and routes which had never seen humans. And, now, just hours later, I'm on the internet in a hotel amidst a bustling city, and the rest of my team is on an airplane, well on their way to home, family, life. Amazing, and hard to digest.
Like the departure, the return home is something of a bittersweet affair. Certainly, in the words of Big Head Todd, "more sweet than bitter", but still a challenge. We who go to the mountains generally do so for a reason. It feeds us. It grounds us. It makes us thrive. The simplicity of the mountain life is wholly engaging, and leaving it is tough. But, to simply remain would be avoidance, escapism. And, perhaps, make the love of the mountains moot, for without black we cannot have white. It is only by leaving home that we realize how fortunate we are, and for some of us it is only by living the mountain life - and then leaving it for a time - that we remember to value it and apply its lessons and teachings to our lives back home.
As I sit here in Punta, backing up gigabytes of images, listening to CNN, and watching ships bob in the nearby harbor, this all rushes through my mind. I am excited beyond words to get home. It's been far too long since I've hugged my children and my wife, and patted my dog's head. I long to answer my daughter's questions, to hear about her day, and listen to my son say her name - a new trick he developed during my absence. But, I also know that, before long, the flood of emails and deadlines and bills and housework and the frenetic pace of modern life will threaten to overwhelm. It is then, I hope, that my mind will harken back to the austere simplicity of Antarctic life. I hope I will be able to conjure up the invigorating lessons of the high peaks, my mountain mind speaking to me through the fog of modern life: "You're but a small part of a big machine. Be humble. Hug your family. Be thankful. Smile.
Relax...Focus on what's important in life, the fundamentals, for soon you'll be back again in the mountains.
-Jake Norton
Nice wrap up Jake. Well written. Be sure to shower before hugging your wife. pw
Posted by: peter whittaker on 1/30/2011 at 7:25 am
Enjoy the good weather, hope it stays that way. Wishing everyone a safe and successful summit! Can’t wait to hear all about the trip! Go Frogs!
The Broderick Family
Posted by: Nancy Broderick on 1/8/2023 at 5:36 am
Wonderful news about the weather break! We’re hoping it holds for you.
We finally had some snow and will be snowshoeing our home trails this morning. Going early so that Willa can have her nap on time, haha!
Ginger & Caleb spent the night and e we played Mexican Train. Had to make up a few rules, the directions were limited, haha!
Sending our love and prayers for the whole team’s good health and success! XOXOXO Momma and Dad
Posted by: Momma and Dad on 1/8/2023 at 2:28 am
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