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Mt. Rainier: August 24th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb August 21 - 24 led by RMI Guides Jake Beren and Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported clear skies with moderate to strong winds. They spent a short amount of time on top before starting their descent from the crater rim just after 8 a.m. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

YAAAAAAAAYYYYYY!!!! CONGRATS BABE! Ok now come down safely please :)

Posted by: Annie Bears on 8/24/2012 at 1:07 pm

Yippee Don, now I can start breathing again myself.

Posted by: Nancy Burress on 8/24/2012 at 11:50 am


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Rest at 14,000’

We spent today resting at the 14,000' camp on Mt. McKinley, getting stronger for our impending move to high camp (17,000'). The weather today was pretty mild for this time of year, with light snow showers throughout the day. The weather forecast looks pretty good, with similar weather on tap for the rest of the week. Everyone is doing well, and we'll likely take one more rest day here at 14,000' before moving up to high camp. We'll keep you posted. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

sending well wishes and weather your way.

Posted by: Kym on 5/24/2012 at 8:04 am

Miss talking to you Nick!  Can’t wait to hear about your adventures.
Pam

Posted by: Pam on 5/23/2012 at 6:57 pm


Aconcagua Expedition: Team Arrives at Base Camp

After our third consecutive day of walking we've finally arrived at Aconcagua Basecamp in beautiful Plaza Argentina (13,800'). After a nice snack we settled in to camp by setting up our tents and then enjoying a wonderful steak dinner courtesy of the great Grajales staff. Leon and I also pulled a little surprise of our own with some Cabernet for the team to celebrate our arrival. Who says that you can't eat great while mountaineering? Anyway, tomorrow calls for a needed rest day as we can all certainly feel the effects of our new altitude... Ciao from base camp, RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Sleep Recovery for Athletes

In a busy world of managing work schedules, family, and training, sleep is often the first thing to suffer. As we pack more and more into our day, we try to get away with less and less sleep. While it’s difficult to manage schedules and sometimes a last minute crunch demands heading to bed late for a few nights, athletic gains from your training are a sum of your training load and your recovery from that load. This means that simply putting in the training hours and effort are not enough; you need to give your body the time and ability to recover from those efforts as well. Additionally, studies of sleep and performance have shown a significant cognitive effect from continual sleep “debt” or sleep restriction. This all leads to the conclusion that you need to hold your sleep time just as sacrosanct in your schedule as you do your training time. If you can stick to this, you will find yourself much more productive with your waking hours as well! To make sure that you are giving your body the recovery it needs from your training load, studies suggest you follow several principles:

Set a consistent sleep schedule: To get quality sleep and maximize your recovery, it’s important to stick to a consistent schedule. Try to head to bed at each night and wake up at the same time. Your body develops a rhythm to sleep, and when your schedule is altered it can make it more difficult to fall asleep, or the sleep you get to be more fitful. Similarly, try to match your sleep schedule to your circadian rhythm. If you are a night owl, embrace it. Heading to bed at 1 am, and trying to wake at 5 am for a pre-work workout is a recipe for sleep deprivation. Recognize your circadian tendencies and try to design your schedule around them to accommodate.

Create a constructive sleep environment: Light pollution and excess noise can prevent you from entering the deepest stages of sleep, in which the majority of recovery from your training load occurs. Consider using fans or white noise machines to drown out excess noise, and consider blackout curtains to create an environment for truly restorative sleep.

Disengage from your screens half an hour before bed: Try to put your screens down at least a half hour before you head to bed. That includes your phone, Ipads, kindles, and televisions. All of the electronics in our lives create stimulation that can make it difficult to fall asleep, keeping us up longer and upsetting our rhythm.

Get 8 hours of sleep: Studies show that while many of us may think that we can operate on less, 8 hours of sleep is the magic number to maximize recovery in athletes. This number creeps up a few hours for teenagers and younger children. While a single night of less sleep will probably not affect your training appreciably, consistently shorting yourself on sleep will reduce your recovery, and reduce the efficacy of your training.

Try a nap! In studies of elite athletes’ recovery, a half hour nap between 2 and 4 pm was shown to dramatically improve recovery. Furthermore, a cup of coffee consumed before that nap helped athletes to wake from it alert and ready to go. While it may not be practical for everyone’s schedule, see if you can sneak in a quick catnap; it may be the performance boost you’ve been looking for!

The Canadian Sport for Life organization has published a detailed explanation of sleep studies as they pertain to long-term athlete development. Find it here: http://canadiansportforlife.ca/sites/default/files/resources/Sleep_Recovery_Jan2013_EN_web.pdf

_____

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Return to Talkeetna

Our whole crew is safe and sound back in Talkeetna! After a successful summit of Denali on Sunday, our crew descended to the 14,000’ camp on Monday. Then, after an early start Tuesday, we hiked out to Basecamp and arrived at the airstrip in the early evening and were lucky enough to have some clear weather to fly off of the glacier and back to civilization. We had a great team dinner last night at the West Rib Pub, and we are all enjoying the comforts of real beds and running water! After 18 great days on the mountain, our expedition is officially over. Everyone is parting ways today, heading back to loved ones back home. It was a great adventure on Denali; climbing with a great team, great weather, and a great mountain, it was hard to beat! RMI Guide Mike Walter
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats to the team and Mike for another well lead expedition. A little quicker than last year :)

Posted by: Jeff Rapp on 5/31/2012 at 2:40 pm

Nicely done folks! Welcome back Rich!

Posted by: Erik on 5/31/2012 at 9:06 am


Mexico:  Summit day on Orizaba!

Hello points North, this is Jake on the summit of Pico de Orizaba with our team who did a great job today getting up in good style. We had awesome weather, light winds, warm, we are on the top looking into the crater right now. Enjoying some great views and really unbelievable day. So thanks to everybody back home for all of the support and we will be calling you when we get down. Well, all right, that's it from the third highest point in North America. Take care up there and we'll be seeing you soon. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren calls from the summit Pico de Orizaba

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

CT - thought of you all day yesterday going up, up, up.  So proud of you!  Hugs!

Posted by: Holly Stuart on 3/11/2011 at 2:03 am

Congratulations Kelsey and the entire team! Can’t wait to hear all about it! xo Kirky

Posted by: Kirsten on 3/10/2011 at 7:41 pm


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb on the Summit

The Five Day Climb June 20 - 24 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at around 7:30 am this morning. After spending an hour on the summit enjoying their accomplishment, the teams started their descent back to Camp Muir. Once back at Camp Muir they will savor some much needed rest and enjoy a day of training on the upper mountain. After spending one more night at Camp Muir the teams will desend to Paradise and return to Rainier Basecamp in the afternoon tomorrow to celebrate their success.

Nice work team!

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move to 17K Camp

Monday, June 24th, 2013 Only 3000 feet to go! We woke up around 4:30 this morning and packed up our 14k camp. We headed uphill towards the fixed lines and hit them as the sun began to beat down on us. It was a stark difference from the other day when it was ridiculously cold from the wind. We worked our way up the fixed lines and gained the ridge on top of the West Buttress. We picked up our cache as we followed the ridge towards 17k camp. By the time we got to camp we were plenty tired. We dug in deep to protect us from the big winds that can happen at 17,000 feet on De-gnarly. Dehydrated meals and hot chocolate in the tent... bed time! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Summit Team 6

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I meant picture on the Rim…

Posted by: Stacy Turner on 6/26/2013 at 6:33 am

Awesome picture of you all on the summit!  A much better view than the one I have in Falls Creek, PA. :-P
Can’t wait to see you on the summit Cindee.

Posted by: Stacy Turner on 6/26/2013 at 6:31 am


Mt. McKinley: Team Jones- Freeze or Fry! Carry to 16,400’

Saturday, June 8, 2013 Bonjour, from the fryer at 14 camp. The essence of climbing the great big mountains is that in the shade we freeze and in the sun we fry. Our carry to 16,400 ft went well and we are now ready for some more rest time. Today was a long hard effort getting out of the tents around 6:45 with not a breath of wind and clear skies; the not so fuzzy part was -10 F air temp. This had us all moving quickly to eat another bowl of oatmeal and down a cup of coffee before departing camp and wiggling vigorously to keep the fingers and toes warm. When we reached the half way mark in our second leg of the carry, the sun popped up over the West Rib route and the rays warmed us to our core. It took just a half hour for us to be climbing in our base layer, welcoming the fry portion of our day. The fixed lines on the West Buttress Head Wall were in great condition with fabulous cramponing - the teeth biting in the snow as if we were on steep green grass. I envy green grass as the only natural colors we have observed are white, blue and the light brown of the granite ridges rising thousands of feet above. We chopped in firm snow to create a cache hole just big enough to drop food, fuel and supplies. The team then descended down the buttress a short way before a hot and relatively easy and smooth decent off the fixed lines and a short stroll back to our 14 advanced base camp! In the tents yet again hiding from the magnificent orange ball in the sky! The future of the day and for tomorrow is to chill, eat, drink, and rest up for our summit push hopefully next week! We miss you all! The guides are currently craving an ice cold coke, some one please have one for us! Till tomorrow be happy be chill all is well! Ciao, RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James,
Cheers, what a challenge! Trust that you will be well hydrated and alert all the way to the summit with high spirit. Continue your adventure safely and enjoy what nature offers there. Following RMI blog. Praying for you and the team successful journey. Love, mom and dad

Posted by: Soonja Choo on 6/9/2013 at 5:27 pm

Go Fallout Go!!
Sounds like the team is doing great…keep it up! 

sincerely,
-Deputy Dawg

Posted by: Steve Kennedy on 6/9/2013 at 4:50 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team on the Ice

What a difference a day makes. Things didn't seem a whole lot better, first thing this morning. Talkeetna was still a little dim and grey with low cloud lurking as we headed out to the airstrip. It took a few hours of waiting for things to come around. Our pilots figured out a clear path in to the Kahiltna, despite a fair amount of lingering clouds hiding the mountains. What we were able to see was stunning and spectacular, as if to make up for all that was hidden. Unbelievably steep and immense mountains began to pop up all around us as we entered the heart of the range. Glaciers, snow and random ice seemed to hang on every possible flank. The K2 pilots did their normal perfect approach and landing with the big ski equipped DeHaviland Otters. We'd taken off from town at 11:30 AM and we were unloading gear on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna 35 minutes later. At basecamp it was intensely sunny and warm with no wind whatsoever. The cloud cover evaporated and we were treated to grand views of Mount Hunter, Mount Foraker and even Denali on occasion. We built camp and began reviewing glacier travel techniques. There was plenty to get done and we worked throughout the afternoon and evening at divy-ing loads and getting rigged for an early morning move to camp at 7,800 ft. What we could see from the planes backed up what we've been hearing from other climbers... conditions on the lower glacier are excellent. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mark, great going! 
Watching as I prepare to head into 120 degrees of the Mojave Desert.  Send some ice!
Jan

Posted by: Jan Wilson on 7/2/2012 at 5:57 am

Sounds amazing. Enjoy. Thinking of you

Posted by: Carolyn on 6/30/2012 at 6:53 am

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