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Mt. Rainier: Update August 22nd

The Four Day Summit Climb August 19 - 22 led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today! Brent reported strong winds and a change in the weather as the team made their ascent today. They spent a little time on top before beginning their descent around 7:30 a.m. PT. The team will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbers!
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Back in Patriot Hills, Antarctica

The Ilyusion landed safely and smoothly a few minutes ago, but it will be another hour or two before we board her for the flight northward. This will be the last time that Patriot Hills acts as the main portal to the continent for climbers. The ALE staff are busily working to relocate the operation to the Union Glacier, some 40 miles away. When we -the last of this season's tourists- get on the jet and roar off the ice, the move will be made in a matter of days... Tents will come down and a few overland trains of sno-cats and various ice vehicles will drag everything to the Union. But by then we will all be back in the Northern Hemisphere. For now, we should get back to Punta Arenas in the middle of the night... In utter darkness, we hope- it will be our first look at the stars in two weeks.
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Mt. Baker: Wedel & Team Summit via the Easton Glacier

The Easton Glacier Climb, led by RMI Guide Jess Wedel, reached the summit of Mt. Baker on Monday morning. The team enjoyed a smooth climb with good weather and clear views from the top. After a successful summit, they spent one more night at camp before making their way back to the trailhead this morning.

Great work by everyone involved!

PC: RMI Guide Arianna Drechsler

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Return to Talkeetna - Trip Complete!

The alarm was set for 11:30 PM at 8000 ft on the Kahiltna Glacier. The rain began at 10:00 PM and continued on and off until 11:20. Rain wouldn't be considered a good thing if you were laying in your sleeping bag hoping that the glacial surface would freeze up in the night to permit safe and easy passage to the Southeast Fork and a possible airplane pickup. So at the appointed wakeup time, we had a soggy glacier, groggy climbers and a murky vision of the world. Although it is still light for twenty four hours in this part of Alaska in mid-July, it isn't very light between about midnight and four. But we made the decision, along with Rob Gowler's AMS group camped nearby, to make a break for the airstrip before the storm got worse. We were on the move by 2:00 AM and stumbling along on snowshoes in the gloom. Surprisingly, it rained no more. It was slow going at first, hitting big crevasses broadside, without being able to see them ahead of time and take evasive action. But conditions improved as we got further down glacier... there had been a great deal of new snow (bridging crevasses) the sky overhead was clearing and the snow surface was consequently freezing, and it was getting lighter. It was a great help to be backed up in route-finding by Rob and the AMS team. Together, as the last climbers on the mountain, we worked through the early morning hours. By seven, we'd solved all significant problems and found ourselves at the foot of "heartbreak hill". We climbed the Southeast Fork to the airstrip and called in the ski-planes. Conditions overhead were good, but it took a few hours until our planes could even get into the range. The bigger storm was still coming in, but all passes into the mountains were already clogged with cloud. We considered ourselves lucky to be flown out in the afternoon. What followed was a whirlwind of drying/sorting gear, connecting with the outer world again and showers and shaves. We enjoyed a fabulous West Rib victory dinner celebration, a summit certificate awards ceremony and copious amounts of laughter over our shared experiences of the past three weeks. Day 20... Trip done... all we could possibly have hoped for in defining a fine expedition. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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A HUGE thank you to Dave and the rest of the guides for escorting Anders and the rest of the team up and down this formidable mountain.  We appreciated all the updates, and can’t wait to hear all the details when Anders gets home.  You certainly faced some challenging weather, and your perseverance and patience paid off in the incredible summit experience.  We all appreciate it!

Posted by: the christofferson family on 7/17/2013 at 4:24 pm


Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Update

The team made great time descending in near perfect snow conditions and watched the weather close in after summiting in what had been the most pleasant weather I have seen on the mountain. We lost one teammate before our summit attempt due to illness but everybody else's summit success is indebted to his superhuman cloud-bending abilities. After bailing out of the Refugio we hustled down to the van where Victor was waiting to whisk us away to Hosteria La Cienega. Cienega was apparently built sometime in the 1700's but for us it simply means a warm bed in a beautiful historic hotel with delicious meals. As far as mountaineering goes the Jose Ribas Hut is luxury but now that we are off the hill the team is really enjoying true luxury. After a fat meal, most of the gang has hit the hay trying to recuperate for a BIG celebratory dinner with the entire team tomorrow night in Quito. Buenos nachos, RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Congrats to my twin and one of my fave nephews - from 88 degree Vermont!  Bet it feels good with the snow, after the 100s of Colorado.  Safe Travels!  (Cathy Chamberlin Foutz)

Posted by: Cate Foutz on 7/6/2012 at 6:19 pm


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Enjoy Much Needed Rest Day

Monday, May 23, 2023  - 9:01 pm PT

Hello fellow readers,

Today was our first rest day of the trip and much needed. Our sunburnt lips and face, chaffed hips, and tired bodies needed the well deserved rest. We enjoyed a casual morning with coffee and pancakes at 9:30 am, followed by lots of down time in our tents. The afternoon was spent gathering our group gear piles for our cache tomorrow and reviewing crampon technique for tomorrow's steep ascent up motorcycle hill. The team is ready and psyched to head further up Denali and get closer to being on top. Camp is bustling with more hopeful people. As per usual we have all crawled into our tents to get settled for the night to rest up for tomorrow's cold early start.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guide Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

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Corey, hope you know I’ve been gloating about you to everyone lately. Went up to visit some Bilodeaus in VT and they’re thoroughly impressed with your expeditioning!!

Also, the Cubs won tonight. May this power you through the next portion of the journey.

Annanana + Bennington (not Bennington, VT though)

Posted by: Anna Nolan Not So Mountain Explorer on 5/23/2023 at 8:03 pm

Glad to read about the rest…now awaiting the rest of story. Go Bethany. You can do this! Love Mom and Dad

Posted by: Jan L. Gray on 5/23/2023 at 7:27 pm


Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Make Final Descent, Exit Kilimanjaro National Park

Today the team woke at 6:30 feeling well rested, had breakfast, then hit the trail one last time. It took a little over three hours to reach the Kilimanjaro park gate where the team had lunch then enjoyed a goodbye song and dance from our gracious crew of porters, cooks, and local guides. We finished the little celebration by handing out their well deserved tips and then hopped aboard our awaiting bus for the ride back to the lodge.

Finally we are all safe and sound, and a little cleaner after an amazing seven day journey up and down Kilimanjaro.

The team is currently relaxing and looking forward to safari which starts tomorrow!

RMI Guide Casey Grom and a happy Kilimanjaro crew

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Congratulations Kaitlin and teammates!  We are so proud of your accomplishments and glad you’re all off the mountain safely.  Thanks to Casey for your expertise in guiding the crew. Enjoy the rest of your time in Africa and safe travels home.
Love to all,
Paul and Lori

Posted by: Lori R on 1/30/2023 at 4:44 pm

Congrats Randy and Shawn!! What an incredible accomplishment. Safe travels back to Michigan.

Best,

John and Michele Muir

Posted by: John and Michele Muir on 1/30/2023 at 2:54 pm


Mexicos Volcanoes: King & Team Summit Pico de Orizaba

We had an amazing night to climb the highest peak in Mexico, 18,491’. The skies were clear, near full moon and warm air in the first 2 hours out of Piedra Grande Hut. 

By the time we got done meandering through the labyrinth there was a cold breeze and the temps dropped as we neared the toe of the Jamapa Glacier that dominates Pico de Orizaba’s Northside. The Team got their crampons on and up we went for what seemed like forever. The climbing is similar to Rainier’s glaciers. There had been some new snow in the last 10 days and a rain event that was proceeded by a lot of wind and a cold front. The result was a thick ice crust on the lower glacier. The guides had begun talking about turning the climb due to the inability to arrest a fall in these conditions if they persisted in the steeper slopes. Fortunately the snow softened and the team reached the summit around 8:15 am. 

During the descent the clouds came in and we descended to the hut. With wet clouds rolling through camp and temperatures dropping we loaded up and road down the bumpy road to Senior Reyes’ climbing hostel. Beers, showers, beers, food, packing and sleeping in that order gets us to the airport tomorrow afternoon. It’s been a fantastic Mexico Volcanoes trip with a great group of climbers. 

RMI Guides Mike King & Dustin Wittmier

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: Frank, Konway & Teams Reach Summit on Beautiful Day

RMI Guide Eric Frank thinks it's a beautiful day to climb Mt. Rainier. Eric along with RMI Guide Jenny Konway and the Four Day Climb August 23 -26 reached the summit just before 7 AM today. The team reported clear skies but with strong winds from the top of Disappointment Cleaver to the summit. The teams enjoyed almost an hour in the crater enjoying the views before starting their descent. Once back at Camp Muir they will repack and get ready for the final descent to Paradise. Their program will conclude with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbers!
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Marlena, you are my hero!

Posted by: Angela Gordon on 8/26/2019 at 5:44 pm

Congratulations, Emmy, well done! One more down on your Bucket List!!

Love you!

Evie

Posted by: Evie D on 8/26/2019 at 10:46 am


Aconcagua Expedition: Mallory & Team Head for the Mountains

Finally with all of our gear, we left Mendoza this morning and headed for the mountains. The tree-lined streets of Mendoza gave away to carefully tended vineyards that produce the famed Malbec wine for which Mendoza is known. The road led into the foothills of the Andes, weaving along the edge of the thick red Mendoza River. The small hills soon grew to tall mountains and the road began passing through tunnels carved through the rock in the mountain sides. By midday we reached the ski outpost of Penitentes, a handful of kilometers from the Chilean border. Penitentes, no more than a few buildings with long slanted tat break the incessant winds, is a ski resort in the winter and a staging ground for Aconcagua climbers in the summer. We spent the afternoon in Penitentes preparing our gear for the mountain. We set up and checked our tents, fired up the stoves, and packed our food and fuel into tight, well protected containers to endure the jostling of the mules on the approach to Base Camp. Once our loads were prepared, we ventured up the valley to Punta del Inca, a famous natural bridge created from geothermal springs that spans the entire river. Decades ago visitors would drive their cars across it. We ventured a bit further up the road to the mouth of the Horocones Valley where we caught our first views of Aconcagua since reaching Mendoza. Capped in clouds and new snow, the mountain's impressive south face loomed over the head of the Horocones Valley. It was an impressive, exciting, and humbling moment. We are settled into our Hosteria now, enjoying the thin cold air, and happy to finally be in the mountains. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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How come your going up the Mulas side as oppossed to the Vacas valley?

Posted by: Randy Christofferson on 12/14/2013 at 10:17 am

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