Yesterday we all met at the Anchorage Airport, drove to Wasilla and bought some food before reaching our final destination of the day, Talkeetna. Once we arrived and settled in, the group had the opportunity to check out Talkeetna and enjoy their great food.
Today we have a super busy day ahead of us. Breakfast, check in with the National Park Service, pack our gear, and if weather permits, fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier and set up camp. Sounds simple but believe me it is a lot! We are all very excited for the flight to the glacier. In my opinion, it is one of the many highlights of climbing in the Alaska Range.
We will be checking in later on.
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the Alaska Expedition Seminar
Have fun, be safe and come back in one piece Tyson! Love you :)
Posted by: Katherine on 5/15/2013 at 9:21 am
Be safe and enjoy the adventure! Hope the weather breaks a bit - Dan, springtime has finally arrived as we are enjoying some beautiful sunny 80 degree days here in Chicago! Be strong be healthy climbers - onwards and upwards! Love you Dan xoxo
Hi this is Seth checking in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi. All the climbers are safe and sound back at the refuge. We aborted our summit attempt at just over 18,000' today due to high winds. And all the climbers are back down safe. We'll be going to La Cienega Hacienda tonight and have a little good food and a hot shower. We're all anxiously awaiting that. We'll check in then.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Seth Waterfall checks in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi
Mark Tucker reporting from Basecamp.
Here listening to one of our neighbors celebrating the arrival of their team after a successful summit. What a relief for them after so much time and effort on the mountain. RMI's time will come. We continue gathering all pertinent information about the upper mountain to help us have a smooth summit push. Team members are putting the final touches on gear and charging their internal batteries with care. Part of that recharge was the Ultimate Horseshoe Competition at Basecamp. Final competitors: Scott Jones, Rob Suero, Tsering Sherpa and me.
The departure date from Basecamp for the summit push is set.
Stay tuned.
Today was full of highs and lows, ups and downs, success and failures, proud moments and embarrassing ones. It started with warm sunshine hitting our camp by 7am, and we soon after headed up towards 747 Pass. After some glacial navigation and steep climbs we crested the saddle. We quickly gained the west ridge of Mt. Dickey and began ascending upwards. After a couple hundred feet it became apparent that the snow pack had changed dramatically. After seeing some red flags and investigating further, it was concluded that we shouldn’t continue. Considering the terrain and remoteness of the climb meant we had little margin for error and the unstable conditions pushed us past our safety margin. The entire team was disappointed but only momentarily as we all decided the summit was not worth it and the view from up high was down right spectacular. We had a safe and enjoyable descent back to camp where we ate snacks, told stories and laughed a great deal. Tomorrow we shall start migrating back to the airstrip for our departure on Monday.
June 30, 2017 2:13 am PST
After a thirteen-hour summit day, the crew is back at high camp safe and sound. The conditions were variable all day from sunny and calm to windy and snowing. We had to break trail both to and from Denali Pass. I am proud of the whole crew and the effort that they put in for a successful summit day!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
P.S. Gloria says Happy Birthday to her dad!
Congratulations Mike and team for a successful summit!!! It must feet amazing! Glad you made it back safely to High Camp. Praying for a continued safe trip down and some much needed rest! God Bless.
Here we are...again! Another rest day, this time at Camp 2 at 18000 feet. If all goes well and keep your fingers crossed, this will be our last rest day. On the agenda for today is the usual, eating and drinking, reading books and magazines, and maybe just maybe watching a movie.
The team is strong, very strong. Now it's just a mind game dealing with a little boredom. Leah and I will be making pizzas this afternoon as a treat. That usually lifts ones spirits! Stay tuned! The summit is just around the corner!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman and Team
Great job everyone!!! Your ultimate goal is only feet away!!! Wishing you all the best of luck these next few days. Praying that weather holds off for you and that you all have an indescribable trek to the summit!!! Can’t wait to read the post saying you all did it!!!
Josh - words can’t describe how proud I am of you. I’m bet one excited for you to reach the top! Not a moment goes by that you aren’t mentioned or thought about. Keep your spirits high, and know that we are rooting you on from TN. Everyone says hi!!! Oh yea, no babies yet, but could be one any day. Sending you all the strength, determination, inspiration, and will power in the world. You can do this!!!
Lots of love. Jess
Posted by: Jessica on 12/27/2013 at 8:40 pm
JJ and Barbara…..I am following you step by step. Can’t wait to hear all about the adventure. I am so proud of your accomplishments!!! ROCK ON! Deb
Posted by: Debbi LaPrevotte on 12/27/2013 at 3:30 pm
Hi all,
Today is our last day on Shuksan before we hike out tomorrow. We spent the morning relaxing getting in and out of our tents as the rain storms were sporadic. By early afternoon it seemed stable enough and we did some training. First we practiced knots and hitches, then we moved on to building snow anchors, and wrapped up with some crevasse rescue scenarios. We are now back in tents as a very dark ominous looking cloud quickly approaches.
That's the latest from Shuksan,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens & Team
We've been enjoying good weather on the Kahiltna Glacier, and today was no different. After a trace of new snow overnight, we awoke to partly sunny skies. A breakfast of smoked salmon with bagels and cream cheese started off our day. After breakfast, we packed up camp and began the climb up towards Kahiltna Pass, en route to the 11k camp. We're taking advantage of the good weather and making good progress so far. Tomorrow we'll sleep in and take a rest day and prepare a cache of supplies to carry up around Windy Corner.
We'll keep you posted on our next move. Until then, we'll be resting...we've earned it.
Mike & team
Happy helmet-wearing! Glad the weather’s cooperating. I think 42 down is “summit”. xoxo, K2
Posted by: K2 Weller on 5/13/2013 at 7:09 pm
Mike…Best wishes for a great climb…Thx for all your support at Rainier last Sept…I return in four weeks - Summit this time hopefully !...Maybe see you…Godspeed…Walter…Hello to Kara if that’s who I saw in pic.
Hey there, Pete Whittaker and the First Ascent team checking in from the ice still at Vinson Basecamp. We woke up this morning to clouds and very cold, icy fog. And this ended up being our second day of being unable to move. We're pretty much tent bound all day today. We were talking about comparing it to being inside a freezer with the door just slightly cracked so that the light is on all the time, 24 hours of day light down here. So very, very cold and just a lot of tent time today. And that's the story. We have adjusted our plans a little bit because of the weather. Forecast is still for possibly more clouds tomorrow. We were looking for an unclimbed peak closer to the Vinson Massif and I think now we're changing our plans. We've identified a couple objectives that are closer to the Union Glacier camp and the runway, dealing the weather and all the backups due to this strike in Punta Arenas. And the people that need to be moved around with the planes. Also because it is the end of the trip we're just adjusting our objective here a little bit. So we hope to get out tomorrow and have a twin otter drop us on a peak closer to Union Glacier, and we'll see how that goes. We're two weeks tomorrow on the ice, you know, everybody's trying to keep the spirits up. Getting towards the end of the trip, we’re all getting a little bit weary of the cold and the ice but hanging in there and hopeful we can fly and finish off the end of the trip. Everyone is healthy, everyone's doing well and getting a lot of horizontal time in the tent. That is the report for today and we hope to talk to you from a different location tomorrow. And we'll talk then.
The Four Day Summit Climbs August 12 - 15, 2013 led by RMI Guides Eric Frank was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Strong winds and precipitation prevented the teams from climbing. The teams checked in from Camp Muir shortly after 7 am where they were safe and warm in the Muir hut. The teams will descend from Camp Muir to Paradise this morning.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos was unable to summit this morning also. They will spend today training on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to Paradise and complete their program.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp.
Have fun, be safe and come back in one piece Tyson! Love you :)
Posted by: Katherine on 5/15/2013 at 9:21 am
Be safe and enjoy the adventure! Hope the weather breaks a bit - Dan, springtime has finally arrived as we are enjoying some beautiful sunny 80 degree days here in Chicago! Be strong be healthy climbers - onwards and upwards! Love you Dan xoxo
Posted by: Kirsten Weber on 5/15/2013 at 8:27 am
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