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JJ Justman: Aconcagua - Mi Amor

For those of you that know me, you are aware of my love affair with Argentina and Aconcagua. For those of you that don’t know, let me explain. It was 1998 when I first visited Argentina and it didn’t take but a few hours from stepping off of the plane to say to myself, "I love this place!" The first thing you notice while in Mendoza is how beautiful the city and the countryside are. As you walk along the wide city sidewalks that are lined with cafe after cafe, you can’t help but sit down to order a double espresso and watch people. As you sit and watch you notice a different atmosphere that rules Argentina as a whole. That is, people enjoy living! At one table there is a group of businessmen taking a break from work. At another table sit a group of old men in a heated debate over Argentina’s favorite sport, futbol. Of course coffee isn’t the only thing consumed in Mendoza. The region is best known for its wine production, as Argentina is now regarded as one of the largest producers of quality wine in the world. That leads me to another reason I absolutely love Argentina: no, not the wine per se, but the amazing food and restaurants that inhabit the culture. Whether it be the amazing steak that leaves every single person saying the same thing – "that’s the best steak I have ever had!" – or authentic Italian cuisine, if you are a "foodie" like me Argentina is amazing. Sure, Aconcagua is supposed to be all about climbing; however, as an international adventure, an expedition to Argentina could not start or finish any better than in a city like Mendoza. Now, for the climbing part: Argentinian Asado Aconcagua of course is one of the seven summits and at just under 23,000 feet it is the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas. It is the perfect mountain for climbers who want to get a start at expedition style climbing. The climb starts in the rugged, high mountain desert landscape where temperatures can be very warm. Mules carry our climbing gear the three day trek to base camp at Plaza Argentina. That means a couple of things: One, you get to trek into base camp with a light backpack; two, you get to hang out with the cowboys, also known as Arrieros, every night at the campfire; and perhaps most importantly, you get to experience a true Argentinian Asado as the cowboys cook steak and chicken over the campfire under the stars. The trusty mules Once you arrive at base camp, most climbers are pleasantly surprised at how civilized it is. It’s very reminiscent of Everest Base Camp in that there are dining tents, toilets, and even showers. Since acclimatization is very important on such a high mountain, it certainly is nice to have some creature comforts and incredible support from a great base camp staff. The climbing above base camp is physically demanding. When I first climbed "The Stone Sentinel" in 1998 we only made two camps above base camp. Today RMI makes three camps. Camp One sits at 16,200 feet. Camp Two at 18,000 feet and Camp Three at 19,600 feet. With 20 summits of Aconcagua I have seen the success rate go way up due to the more strategic nature of making three camps. This acclimatization schedule helps to make our climbing teams much stronger, but the climb is still a lot of work! Smiles on the summit I would love to explain to you how amazing the world looks up high on summit day, but it’s like every mountain I climb: you cannot fully explain the beauty of the high alpine world until you see it for yourself. As you stand on her summit and gaze out, you see a world that never ends; mountains beyond mountains as far as the eye can see. While you contemplate, it doesn’t take too long to begin to smile knowing that as soon as you get down, you are returning to the beautiful city of Mendoza to enjoy the hot weather and swimming pools, after an evening of dining once again on the most amazing food you’ll ever have in your life, that is!
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Mt. McKinley: Okita and Team Transfer to Talkeetna, Alaska

May 20, 2014 - 8:29 pm PT We are closing in on Talkeetna enjoying the unseasonably warm weather, being driven by our shuttle driver Louisa. It's nice to finally be all together and underway after so much anticipation and preparation. No lost luggage or late planes. Now all we need to accomplish is to unload our gear at the hanger, check into our wonderfully quirky hotel run by our friends Pam and Al, before heading out for a bite and a beer or two. If first impressions mean anything, I think were going to have a good time on this expedition. Cheers! RMI Guide Brent Okita
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Go Dr. Bruce Terry!

Wishing you and your team good luck on your expedition!

Your Friends over at Lionville Dental Associates!

Posted by: Lionville Dental Associates, LLC Doctors and Staff on 5/28/2014 at 10:02 am

Have a great climb - it looks like a great group!

Posted by: susan scanlon on 5/24/2014 at 11:03 am


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Return to Base Camp

We have arrived! Ahhh, it feels so good to be back at Base Camp! Let me tell ya, this team has faced some enormous adversity. Now don't get me wrong, I don't want to scare friends and family because this Wisconsin boy has faced worse weather watching the Green Bay Packers at Lambeau Field in December. The weather on this expedition has flip flopped from beautiful to not so beautiful. And wouldn't you know it, the weather followed us down to base camp. However, it doesn't matter now. We've enjoyed pizzas, fresh fruit and coca colas. And we all deserve it! Everyone says hello and we are looking forward to our trek out. This is our last dispatch for this season's Aconcagua expeditions. Thank you so much for following along and thanks for all the comments! RMI Guides JJ Justman, Katrina Bloemsma and Team
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Jeff…What’s up brother?  You should explain that while in Green Bay the best way to stay warm is to have a couple of drinks!  Kids say hi.  Hope all is well.
BillBoy

Posted by: Bill on 3/23/2014 at 2:09 pm

CONGRATS TO ALL!!!
  JEFF VERY PROUD OF YOU AND ALL YOUR GROUP!!!!!

Posted by: LARI&B0B; on 2/26/2014 at 8:01 am


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Team Ascends Rucu Pichincha

Hey Everybody - This is the Ecuador group checking in. We had a great day today and everybody is doing well. We had another delicious breakfast at the hotel and took off early to ride the teleferique (gondola) up to Rucu Pichincha. Pichincha is a volcano just outside of Quito and we hiked the older (Rucu, in the indigenous language of Quechua) extinct side of it. We rode the gondola up the mountain to 13,500' into the grasslands above Quito. We began our acclimatization hike up to the top of the volcano from there. Our Ecuadorian guide Freddy joined us today and set the pace for everybody to follow. As we ascended, we moved from the grasslands into a rocky scramble that led to the summit. It took us 3 hours to ascend to the top at 15,406', which was a new altitude record for some members of the group. The descent was welcomed as we headed back to the comfortable altitude of Quito. We did a little shopping then headed out for an early dinner on a rooftop in old-town. We had spectacular views of the Basilica, the San Francisco de Quito, and the Virgin as we ate traditional Ecuadorian cuisine. Everyone seems to be having a great time and we will check in tomorrow. RMI Guides Casey Grom, Maile Wade & the team
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Corell, Elsie and Lucy- The rest of Team Waki is thinking of you all and wishing you great weather for summits! Know you all can do it and be safe while having fun.

Posted by: Kathryn LeBey on 7/26/2011 at 7:11 pm

Hi! Uncle David Good Luck and don’t fall! Stay warm! We are swimming and won the division championship!!! We love you! Andrew Robert & William

Posted by: The Sandeen Boys on 7/26/2011 at 6:03 am


Gokyo Trek: Hahn & Team Depart Gokyo for Dhole

Thursday, October 10, 2024 - 3:04 am PT

As much as we were enjoying the high life up in Gokyo, it was time to get lower.  We got walking at 8:30 this morning down past the series of magical lakes pinched between giant mountains and a giant glacier.  The end of the glacier brought a dramatic change in the scenery as we were then traversing a steep gorge with a charging and churning river below.  The trail was in great condition, though it was still a challenge to keep from tumbling off as one could get easily distracted staring at the six or eight 20,000 ft mountains surrounding us.  It wasn’t particularly busy on the trail but we were careful to give room to the hard working yaks when they came through loaded up with propane.  The weather followed what we’ve come to think of as the normal pattern: crystal clear to start and clouding up after noon.  We pulled into Dhole at around 1:40 PM after 8.2 miles, so the gang was definitely ready for lunch and a few hours of rest to complete the day.  The rest -way down here at 13,400- ought to be a little more restful than we’ve had in recent days. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Peru Seminar: Blais & Team Return to Huaraz to Enjoy Creature Comforts Before Next Climb

We packed up camp and left the beauties of the Ishinca Valley this morning. Our thoughts temporarily shifted from climbing peaks to hot showers and real beds. Don't get me wrong, we're not getting soft here. We still have an almost 19,000' mountain to climb. But the creature comforts of Huaraz are certainly welcome for a day before we head back to the hills. Or next target is Pisco Oeste in the Llanganuco valley. We're feeling strong and we're ready for the challenge. These are a few photos from the last few days in Ishinca. Photos by Zeb Blais. Enjoy. RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson and team
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Hello to Steve Odom and the rest of the team! Hope the trip is going well!!!
Sayuri

Posted by: Sayuri Jinadasa on 8/17/2016 at 6:10 am

In awe of you all as I follow this incredible journey! Enjoy the respite…the next climb awaits!

Posted by: Judy Mileto on 8/16/2016 at 9:25 am


Cotopaxi Express: Walter & Team Acclimatize on Rucu Pichincha

We experienced some thin air on our first acclimatization hike today, as we climbed Rucu Pichincha, a volcano that sits just to the west of Quito. At 15,413', it was certainly a new altitude record for some climbers on our team. Everyone did well on the climb. Tomorrow we will leave Quito and head south for our next acclimatization hike going up to the climbers' hut on the Illiniza mountains. We'll be in touch with our progress... RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: May 17th Update

Casey Grom and the Five Day Mt. Rainier Summit Climb called in early this morning. Due to low visibility the team made the decision to turn at 13,300’. The team is en-route to Camp Muir, and expected back at Basecamp this afternoon. Tyler Reid and Adam Knoff are heading up to Camp Muir to start their Five and Four Day Summit Climbs respectively.
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Kilimanjaro: Okita and Team Scale the Baranco Wall

We awoke to clear views around camp, a nice change from yesterday's cold, wet cloud that enveloped us. On stage was the Baranco Wall, our first climb. The crew had no problem with the 8:00 start, though there was some anxiety because the trail up the Wall seemed to cling to a vertical rock face. Only after getting onto the Wall was it clear that the climbing is pretty manageable, with just a handful of spots that demanded our keen attention. To safeguard the passage of each team member we always had a guide or two present at each of these spots. By the top of the Wall big smiles were plastered on everyone's faces. I think we all had fun on this stretch. As a reward we had a surprise at the top. Our camp staff had set up a table with tea and snacks for us, which we enjoyed under the mighty presence of the Heiman glacier and the upper reaches of Kilimanjaro. Two hours later we rolled into camp.

Another wonderful lunch is sitting in our bellies as we spend a relaxing afternoon reading, writing, or just relaxing. We're saving energy for our hike to high camp and our climb tomorrow night.

The summit is getting close!

RMI Guide Brent Okita & Team

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Must be a cool experience, climbing thru 5 climate zones! Good luck to all!

Posted by: John B on 8/5/2023 at 7:03 am

Carry on!!! Must be the elevation!!

Posted by: Terri Woellner on 8/4/2023 at 3:59 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Carry to 16,200’

Monday, July 8, 2013 One of our better weather days of the trip. That said, it is snowing good and hard now at our 14,200 ft camp, but that isn't so important (yet). It was clear and calm this morning when we were interested in starting our carry up onto the West Buttress of Denali. By far, this was our coldest morning. We were guessing it was -10F or thereabouts. We started climbing at a quarter to 10 this morning in bright sunshine. The route goes uphill in a hurry out of 14 camp and we made steady progress toward the "fixed ropes". This steep and intimidating section of the climb was tough, as expected. Hard ice, 45 degree angles, unrelentingly uphill and airy feeling... but it was also spectacular when one was able to look up from the hard work for a moment to see the lower Kahiltna Glacier or Foraker across the way or the clean granite of Denali all around us. We reached the ridge crest (16,200 ft) at 2 PM and took a welcome break, gazing down at the Peters Glacier and the Northwest Buttress on the "other" side of our perch. Thus we broke Max's altitude record, which was momentous. But his was the only one to fall as our other climbers had previously topped mountains like Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua. All noted that 16,200 on Denali felt a little different than similar heights on other mountains. We cached our supplies and descended in gathering cloud and murk. We'd reached 14 camp by 4:30 and took a few hours to kick back and drink water before dinner. Tomorrow is a rest day, and a welcome one after four hard days of moving and acclimating to uncomfortable new altitudes. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Way to go guys!  Sounds like conquering the headwall is an accomplishment all in itself.  Something to celebrate in the POSH with your melted ice cocktails!!
Enjoy your very much deserved rest day, saving some energy and positive mental fortitude for the next leg.
Thanks Dave for describing the day so vividly!

Posted by: judychristofferson on 7/9/2013 at 11:08 am

Wow, Max!  We are so impressed.  Take care, climb safely and we are praying for good weather.  Love, Grandma & Grandpa

Posted by: Bill & Caryl Reese on 7/9/2013 at 9:18 am

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