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The Ilyusion landed safely and smoothly a few minutes ago, but it will be another hour or two before we board her for the flight northward. This will be the last time that Patriot Hills acts as the main portal to the continent for climbers. The ALE staff are busily working to relocate the operation to the Union Glacier, some 40 miles away. When we -the last of this season's tourists- get on the jet and roar off the ice, the move will be made in a matter of days... Tents will come down and a few overland trains of sno-cats and various ice vehicles will drag everything to the Union. But by then we will all be back in the Northern Hemisphere. For now, we should get back to Punta Arenas in the middle of the night... In utter darkness, we hope- it will be our first look at the stars in two weeks.

Puebla Rest Day and Off to Orizaba

After our single push of Ixta, the Mexico Volcanoes team deserved a rest. We took full advantage of Puebla’s welcoming streets, cathedrals and parks and mostly lazed around for a day. 

Two nights of sleep, some light sightseeing, a gold plated brisket sandwich this time, and even some parking garage yoga later, we reluctantly packed the van back up and headed to Tlachichuca. 

We’re off to attempt our highest summit of the trip, Volcan Orizaba. Wish us luck!

Today was the real first step of the adventure. We woke up early to catch one of the first rides on the gondola and we’re glad we did. The team enjoyed beautiful views of the surrounding volcanoes, Rucu Pichincha itself, and the cityscape of Quito to start our morning up in the hills. The weather out here in Ecuador is notoriously unpredictable though. Shortly after we set out, we were surrounded by clouds and a breeze that chilled us for the remainder of the climb. Still thankful for no rain, we climbed on and reached the summit in style. The best part of the climb? Well of course it was the coffee and donuts that awaited us at the top of the gondola. The Euro-style café there has sprawling views of Quito and coffee that tastes extra good after a hard day’s work. The team is headed back to Quito for our last night here before we head out to our next peak, Fuya Fuya.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

The Four Day Climb teams led by Andy Bond and Nick Scott heading up to Camp Muir for their climb tomorrow, September 16th, decided to retreat in the face of blizzard conditions. The team made it just past Pebble Creek and onto the Muir Snowfield despite heavy rains. However, at about 7,300' the heavy rains quickly turned into blowing sideways ice and snow which forced them to make the collective safety decision to turn around and head back to Paradise. The team made their descent and are back in town wearing dry layers and sipping warm drinks.

What a whirlwind! Yesterday we were standing at almost 23,000 feet, and this evening we're back at Aconcagua Base Camp. It's a big day descending all the way, and our loads just get bigger as we pick up food and gear cached at each camp. It makes it easier knowing that we're headed to a delicious steak dinner ( better than the way in even!). Tomorrow we're back to light loads, light shoes, and getting miles under our feet. Hopefully we see Billy and team along the way. We'll be in touch! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Today was a good day. The sun peeked thru the clouds timidly at best, with snow spitting occasionally and clouds being more the norm. But that didn't deter us from enjoying another easy day with a thirty minute walk back to the cache we left at 9,500' leading to a pleasant romp back to camp in the early afternoon. With the days work behind us we had only to review some climbing basics with our ice axes and crampons to get ready for tomorrow. It is beginning with the terrain above that the real climbing starts. And we're ready for it. Lighter packs and steeper slopes will be a welcome respite from the slogging done thus far. Our last fresh food meal of burritos revealed that everyone was feeling strong here at 11,200' as the team left nothing uneaten. We'd love just a bit more settled weather for our climb up Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill and Windy Corner on our way to our cache site at 13,600', but I suppose if we just have calm weather we'll be happy. At eight hours round trip this will be our longest day, and our first day of higher altitude, but I know the team is ready for it. We'll leave you with a little poem Lindsay composed: "With sleds in our pack We take the downhill track. Zipping to 9500' for the cache We grab the food stash. Back to 11 we go With light weight sleds in tow. Tomorrow we will carry up the hill And hope to continue our good weather fill" Until tomorrow, RMI Guides Brent Okita, Leon Davis and Lindsay Mann

On The Map

Hey everyone this is JJ Justman with Team Two on Aconcagua. I believe you all heard through my last dispatch that we were on the summit of Aconcagua. I just want to report that everyone is safe and sound. We are here at high camp. Our work is not yet, at least not for the guides. We are busy getting water and snow melting to get everyone rehydrated and refueled. We had a long day, probably had to say that it was one of my toughest climbs in regards to the weather. It was cold and windy and just took a lot out of us. The team did an absolutely fantastic job! I’m really proud of everyone they did a great job climbing and we are really happy to be back at camp. We are going to be heading back to Base Camp tomorrow. That’s a big day of carrying heavy loads. We do have some porters coming up to help out, which is good. We will touch base tomorrow when we get back into Base Camp. We will get into some of those nice luxuries that we have been missing for the past week or so. Thanks for following along everyone, we will touch base tomorrow. Bye Bye!

Well hello again from Camp 1. We're still waiting for some good weather. Last night was a wet, windy and wild one. At about 10pm the side of my tent hit me in the face and woke me up. The next several hours were very blustery. At around 1am the wind died completely and the thunder and lightning started. As the flashes got closer and closer the wind picked up and blew the thunderhead out. Then it started to snow. By the time we started breakfast everything at our elevation had chilled out. It was a hilarious discussion as we related our tent experiences from the night. There was a large cap on Mt. Elbrus but everyone was still game to go for an acclimatization climb. We had to wait for one more snow squall to move through but we made it to 14,420' a new altitude record for some folks. Once we got back to camp it was almost dinner time. We're all done with dinner now and Pete and I have cleaned up the pots and put the stoves away for the night. We're anxiously awaiting tomorrow as there is another storm forecasted but we're hoping it passes us by. We want to climb! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Geoff Schellens led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The Four Day Summit Climb August 27 - 30 teams reported clear skies and chilly temperatures with winds blowing 15-20 mph. The team were approaching the crater rim at 7:30 a.m. After spending some time on top they will descend to Camp Muir to repack and rest a bit before continuing down to Paradise this afternoon. We look forward to seeing the teams back in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!