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Posted by: JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
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Hey this is JJ and Team One on Aconcagua,
The weather is fouling up the satellite so I will make this quick. We have left Aconcagua Base Camp, and it was probably the worst day walking out of Base Camp I have ever had. Usually we are worried about sunburn, but today we have to be worried about windburn in a blinding blizzard snow storm. Something I have never seen before. It is definitely nice to be out of that weather and a little bit lower in the valley. The team is doing great and we’re real happy. We are actually having a great dinner of filet mignon with the cowboys that are carrying our stuff out via the mules.
This will be our Final Dispatch of what was one incredible adventure, with the weather that is still not letting up is going to miserable for the next few days, so hopefully Mendoza will be a little sunnier, a little warmer, and a little more hospitable. The Team definitely deserves it!
Thanks again everyone for following along, and definitely stay tuned because Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens, and I will be back at it with another Expedition her on Aconcagua. We hope the weather gods will be kinder to us.
I can’t say enough great things about this team and the great experience we have had. No summit but that is the way the weather goes.
That’s all for now from Argentina, Ciao!
JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens, and Team
JJ and Team head for Mendoza
The Four Day Summit climb led by Brent Okita, Solveig Garhart and Dan Windham reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. The team reported clear skies and 20 mph winds. At 7:40 a.m. PT the teams were at 12,300' on their descent en route to Camp Muir.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons July 3 - 8 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by Mike Walter. The team will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.
Congratulations to today's summit teams!
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Ben Luedtke, Daniel May
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,000'
Hello all,
Another chill day on Aconcagua for the team. Since we had the time we had a fun breakfast of pancakes with white chocolate chips (the grocery was out of milk chocolate chips). After enjoying are delightful breakfast we stretched our legs on the first stretch of our hike tomorrow. It was good to fill the lungs and get the blood going and to get eyes on tomorrow's terrain. We spent most of the afternoon resting, enjoying the scenery, starring at the mountain and sorting gear for our move. Everyone is ready for our next move. This move is significant because once we leave this camp we are go go go for the next five days. The team is ready and looking strong. So here is our last Goodnight from Guanacos Camp. Next chat is from our high camp.
RMI Guides Hannah, Ben, Dan and Team
To mi hijo Barry, guides, compadres - may fortitude and luck be with you on the ascent tomorrow - climb!
Posted by: Jenny French on 1/22/2023 at 10:23 am
Exciting time for all!
Posted by: Peter Darasz on 1/22/2023 at 8:01 am
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Hi all,
Had a great first day on the Mt. Shuksan 6-day Denali Prep course. Jim and Joy showed up prepared and ready to go. After a gear check, and another cup of coffee, we headed out of town to the Shannon Ridge trail head. We started up the trail with sun on our shoulders, laughing about the 30% chance of rain. After a couple hours hiking we left the trees behind and enjoyed great views of Mt. Baker. With these views, however, also came the end of our laughter as we noticed dark clouds approaching. Though we did get a light rain in the last 1/2 hour before getting to the low bivy camp site, we had a great day. Jim and Joy are in good spirits and staying dry in there tent, currently discussing dinner options. We'll see what the weather gods have in store for us tomorrow.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Today was a fantastic day for the team as we achieved greater acclimatization. We entered the dry and rocky terrain of the Highland Desert Zone where large volcanic boulders dot the landscape. Our trail gently ascended the Shira Plateau and we the reached our high point near Kilimanjaro's Lava Tower at 14,900'.
After a long break to soak up the thin air we descended into the Barranco Valley. We are now comfy and cozy in our SlingFin dining tent drinking hot tea and eating popcorn at 12,800'. Everyone is having a great time and we are looking forward to another great day on Kilimanjaro.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
Kalani and Dom-
We are watching your progress and ascent with great excitement! Wow- way to go!
Susan and LHPS
Posted by: Susan Clayton on 8/2/2013 at 8:01 am
Dom and Kalani, thinking of you every day, every step of the way!! Living vicariously through the two of you. Enjoy every magnificent moment! Hugs, Diana
Posted by: Diana Boyce on 8/2/2013 at 7:16 am
Posted by: Linden Mallory, Walter Hailes
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by Walter Hailes and the Five Day Summit Climb led by Linden Mallory reached Ingraham Flats (11,200') this morning before making the decision to turn the teams around due to unstable snow conditions.
The teams will descend from Camp Muir and return to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford this afternoon.
Posted by: Zeb Blais, Casey Grom, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Summit! The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb was on top this morning in clear skies and light winds. RMI Guide Zeb Blais reported the team began their descent from the crater rim at 7:40 a.m.
RMI Guide JJ Justman and his Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons also reached the summit this morning. The team is still enjoying their time on the summit before they descend back to Camp Schurman for the night. JJ sent a video last night and can be viewed below.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Yesterday we made our first big jump to altitude, from sleeping at roughly 10,000' to 15,000' and everyone seemed to handle it quite well. It's a good sign that everyone is acclimatizing.
Today we were greeted with moderate winds and blowing snow. Not what we were hoping for but we'll keep our spirits up regardless. We spent a little time outside today reviewing some basic climbing techniques to prepare us for tomorrow's summit attempt. We mostly enjoyed the comforts of the hut here on Cayambe. It's more of a house than a hut and sleeps about thirty climbers. It has two small kitchens and most importantly, indoor plumbing.
Everyone is doing great and are anxiously awaiting tomorrow's summit attempt. If all goes well we will try to leave here early in the morning and hope to reach the summit just after sunrise.
Keep your fingers crossed and wish us luck!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Thinking about you. Cheers for a wonderful adventure. Be safe. See you when you get back.
Posted by: L on 7/28/2011 at 7:35 pm
With the wind and rain pelting the Barrels last night we slept soundly, warm and dry inside our sleeping bags. The skies were again clear in the morning and we enjoyed a cup of coffee admiring the views of the Elbrus coated in a fresh layer of snow.
Before returning to the valley we stopped at a small museum housed in the tram terminal at the top of the ski area. Dedicated to the fighting that took place in this area during WWII, it was strange to look out on the slopes above, now crawling with vacationers and climbers from all corners of the world, and imagine the battlefield it once was as the Russians fought to protect the oil reserves further to the south from advancing German troops.
After returning to the hot showers and flip flops that awaited us in Azau. Freshly showered and reveling in the feel of cotton, we found our way to an amusing little restaurant nearby in the village of Terskol. Before we could eat, we first grabbed fishing poles and threw in our hooks. Sara once again proved her boundless skills and landed the first fish. Twenty minutes later we sat down to a delicious meal of fresh fish and salads, a change of pace from the Cliff Bars we've been eating on the trail.
The rest of the afternoon was spent browsing the stalls of local women selling woolen shawls, hats, and other souvenirs from the area. We ended the day with a celebration dinner in a local cafe alongside a group of Irish climbers bent on proving their drinking prowess to the Russian hosts.
Since we didn't use our weather day on the mountain we are going to explore more of the Baksan Valley tomorrow, relaxing and enjoying some down time before departing for Moscow on Friday.
Our day began differently than what we've been used to. The seemingly eternal sun had hid herself away behind a thick veil of clouds, and a dusting of snow fell during the night. Finally, the cold of Antarctica was showing us its stuff, and I for one was impressed.
Loading up packs, we all sorted through our things, deciding what could be left at High Camp and was needed to stay to keep us warm and happy down here at Low Camp. There's always a desire to bring as much as possible up on a carry in the hopes of having a lighter pack when you finally do move up. But, the worst-case scenario must always be considered, and generally it's better to leave less the first time, and carry more the second time, ensuring you have what you need if the going gets tough. So, we all had heavy packs, but not too bad.
The move up to High Camp on Vinson is a fairly expedient one, taking a steep line up the Branscomb Glacier headwall. It's steep, but not overwhelming, and fortunately gains altitude quickly. The entire team moved well, and the cloud cover was actually a blessing in disguise, keeping the temperatures reasonable. Step after step, foot after foot, we climbed upward into the clouds, dusted with snow from time to time. Eventually, the fixed lines gave way to a windy ridge and gentler terrain leading to High Camp.
As we moved up the final 1000 feet to camp, the mountains decided to show us some scenery. The clouds lowered a bit, and Mount Shinn, the third highest peak on the continent, reared up from the ether below. A stunning sight, and a nice culmination of a hard day's work.
We're now all safely back at Low Camp. The weather is socked in, with a light snow falling on the tents. Antarctica has finally showed us her cold side; we're all hoping she warms to us again soon.
-Jake Norton
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Todd McClure- Todd, I am praying for your safety and that you have an amazing time. I can’t wait to hear stories in late January about the climb. One step at a time!!! Tim Dolan
Posted by: Tim Dolan on 1/2/2013 at 12:52 pm
This is a shout out for Todd McClure. Todd, thanks for the link and I hope you get this. I’ll be thinking about you and your effort and all you stand for and know that you’ve got what it takes. Drink lots of water and you should be fine. Altitude headaches are horrible, and hopefully you’ll acclimatize well. You’re big and strong and can carry a lot of weight which should help your team. I’m thinking the best for you and your group. What an adventure.
Posted by: Bart Blankenship on 12/29/2012 at 10:40 am
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