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Wednesday, June 21, 2023 - 7:19 pm PT

Our night of snow storms was briefly broken by clear skies and stunning views, at least for the 2am night owls. By 7, back to snow and low visibility, thus another rest day.

The team finally woke at a leisurely 8am, and gathered in the cook tent for an extraordinary breakfast. Hard at work, our tireless guides had put together pan-fried breakfast burritos that would give any cafe a run for its money. No cap. Seth may consider an alternate career as Chipotle’s chief burrito roller. Sated and happy, the group later headed out during a brief weather interlude to practice crampon skills. The next days of the climb will necessitate these on the steeper and icier terrain. With no one stabbed or stepped on, the outing was considered a success. Relaxation ensured the remainder of the afternoon as movies were watched, books were read, and an unlikely duet belted out classics by The Who. 

We are well rested and ready to hopefully cache just past Windy Corner tomorrow, and continue our journey upwards.

RMI climber Alex Smith

The climbers have all arrived and day one is in the books. While the guides were kept busy with preparations for the coming days, the climbers that arrived early had a chance to experience a bit of Mendoza. Everyone is excited and eager for the days to come. Hopefully the sudden thunderstorm this evening means our bit of moisture for the trip has come and gone and sunny, blue skies await us on the mountain. Here’s to hoping!

RMI Guide Nick Scott

The Four Day Climb Teams for June 30 - 3 July reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Jess Matthews. The teams reported windy conditions and a cloud cap. They began their descent from the crater rim around 8:15 AM. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing down to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

The snow began falling about the time we got into our sleeping bags last night. It didn't quit. When we poked heads out for a look-see around 3:30 AM, it was still piling up pretty good, and so there wasn't any consideration given for going ahead with the icefall plan for the day. Back to bed and wait and see, was the plan. It had snowed about a foot by breakfast. The gang assembled and we spent the day biding our time. We didn't have great conditions for walking with powder snow over uneven rock and ice. The clouds and flurries hung in all day. We could hear and occasionally see puja ceremonies going on at the camps around us. All-in-all it was a quiet day of waiting. We'll see what tomorrow brings. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climb led by Mark Falender reached the summit at 6:00 a.m. this morning. At 7:15 he radioed from 13,000’ on their descent reporting blue skies, a bit chilly and light winds. Congratulations! The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by Seth Waterfall are traveling to the White River Campground beginning their approach to Camp 1.

The morning of March 8th began like most others do when climbing a big mountain. A 1am wake up call, yummy instant oatmeal and coffee and the persistent interpersonal question of, "Why on earth do I do this?" We lucked out again with the weather. A strong wind was blowing when we arrived at the hut and blew all through dinner. Much like it did on Ixta. By the time we pulled ourselves out of bed, most of us having not slept anyway, the wind was gone. Mommy nature was indeed in a good mood and happy with us, so both mornings on Ixta and Orizaba, were perfect. Also perfect was the teams readiness and psych. We began walking up hill at 2:15 a.m. and everyone was feeling solid and positive. After we got through the cruxy ice section called the labyrinth and onto the Jamapa Glacier, we knew we could make it. This Mexican glacier looks simple but once on it the darn thing seems like the twilight zone. You move but never go anywhere. After putting one foot in front of the other for three hours we did land somewhere, the summit! All eight of us, including Fozzi our local guide and myself, had made the tops of both Ixta and Orizaba. This team battled illnesses, mild AMS, anxiety and the stress of undertaking intimidating mountain climbs like champs. hey all made me proud! We then returned to the comforts of our outfitters compound and prepared for the flights home. We are all thrilled to both have had a successful adventure and to come home today. Thanks to the entire team for a fantastic trip! RMI Guide Adam Knoff

On The Map

This is Seth checking in from the top of the Barranco Wall. We've been climbing in a cloud all morning which has kept the temperatures nice and comfortable. The team is doing well and we're all looking forward to spending the afternoon at our next camp, Karanga Valley. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Domingo. This is the Spanish equivalent to Sunday. And as we all know, on the seventh day of God's exhausting work week he rested. Granted he did create all living things, the land and sea as well as the heavens so deservingly so he earned the right to sit on the couch and mourn a Green Bay packers loss. Our team simply climbed a 19,000 foot mountain which God would dismiss as child's play but we are mere mortals. Regardless, Sunday greeted our freshly washed group at La Cienega with beautiful sunshine and happy humming birds. After breakfast we loaded the van and rolled back to Quito to celebrate Ginger and Albert's time with us. By mid afternoon the team had sniffed out the most American sports bar this side of the amazon and watched what us gringos consider "real" football. Jaime keeps calling it hand ball and for some reason I can't find a witty comeback. All I can say is God is a Green Bay packer fan. After football we rested some more and then headed out for our fair well dinner. We have all passed this one Mexican restaurant with a short mariachi man standing on the corner blowing a toy trumpet trying to persuade any hungry looking gringo into his place. Because I seem to promise this funny little guy we will come in next time, I figured it would be bad karma to pass him up again. So Mexican it was. Sadly they can't serve beer after 4pm on Sundays because too many people were getting sloshed after church and crashing their cars, so I had to sooth my jalapeño burns with red wine. The food turned out to be great so the team went back to the hotel content. We now head south to Chimborazo. Albert and Ginger, we will miss you. Wish us luck. RMI Guides Adam Knoff & Casey Grom

On The Map

Hi everybody and welcome to the first installation of many dispatches from this summer's Ecuador Volcanoes program! The team finally met each other as a complete group this morning for breakfast after several hectic laps between the airport and hotel late last night. Team members were trickling in gradually through the night and the crowds of Ecuadorians awaiting family members made for quite a scene. Actually, it was more like a zoo with a traffic jam outside. Fortunately, Jaime and Victor (our expert locals) were incredibly helpful in scooping up our climbers and adept at navigating the melee. Anyway, after a decent breakfast and getting to know each other a bit the team headed out for a day cruising around Quito as full-fledged tourists of the sight-seeing variety. With the majority of the city situated at over 9,000' we have actually already begun our acclimatization process. After a long day of travel just to arrive in Ecuador, it was nice to have a day to just cruise around and get comfortable. The city tour hit up lots of old colonial and contemporary sights including religious, governmental, and culturally significant buildings. We climbed the rickety catwalks high in the Basilica and caught tremendous 360 degree views of this huge metropolis of more than 3 million citizens and later went to the exact geographical equator where we played around with the strange forces the earth's rotation creates uniquely on the middle of the planet. The equator museum also had a cool sort of natural history museum with a collection of flora and fauna and anthropological relics from Ecuador's various regions. We're talking giant anaconda and boa skins, real human shrunken heads, and a gnarly, preserved amazon candiru - look it up... The team had fun getting to hang out in a casual atmosphere and we aim to keep the fun going as we begin some of our physical activity tomorrow with a training hike up on Rucu Pichincha, a volcano right above the city where we will hopefully hit nearly 16,000'. That should help jump start the acclimatization followed by a night's rest at relatively lower altitude in Quito. Well, headed off to dinner with the crew, more to come as the situation develops, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

We are back down in the forest at 10,000 ft. Mweka Camp. But not that long ago we were up at the highest point in all of Africa Our wake up target last night was 11:30 and after a light midnight breakfast we got walking at 12:40 AM. Against all odds, it was a perfect night for climbing. After so much cloud yesterday and swirling gusts blowing the tents around for the last couple of nights, it was a surprise to have such a calm and clear sky as we got climbing by headlight. The stars and planets and the moon were awesome, but we really didn’t have time for stargazing... there was a lot of uphill work to be done. The team was absolutely up to the challenge. Nobody seemed to mind the cold all that much (and it got good and cold before sunrise at 19,000 ft) and everybody kept right in step with our local guide Philbet’s good and steady rate of ascent. There was plenty of snow on the upper part of Kibo from storms a few weeks back and the track was consequently a bit trickier than it might have been. But that didn’t stop us from hitting the crater rim at Stella Point by 5:45 AM. The sun came up through a lower cloud deck as we were midway around the crater on the way to the summit. The colors of the first rays and the Kibo shadows cast in the western sky had us mesmerized. As we marched to Uhuru, the high point. We reached the top at 6:50 AM and spent just over a half hour on the summit. Things warmed up nicely for our descent. We did our fare share of scree skiing as we rapidly dropped altitude. Our guides and staff were a huge help to the team on the trip down. We came back to Barafu at 10:40 and enjoyed a sumptuous brunch in the dining tent. While we were in, clouds came over camp and a rainstorm began. None of us minded the prospect of a wet walk down to Mweka after we’d gotten so spectacularly lucky on the summit weather. We packed up and got walking at 12:40 PM in full rain gear. Sure enough the trails below 12,500 ft were slimy and treacherous, but we kept making careful steps down the rocky track until we came into Mweka Camp at 4 PM. Things are damp down here, but the air is thick and we’re all looking forward to our last dinner in the dining tent and a good rest through the night. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn Listen to Dave's call from High Camp after returning from the summit.

On The Map