Most Popular Entries

Elevation: 17,000'

Wednesday, June 27, 2024 - 9:58 pm PT

Still in a holding pattern at 17,000 ft. There were obvious strong winds blowing on our climbing route first thing today. We watched and waited for calming. It did die down a little at midday -too late for climbing- but then the winds roared back to life in the afternoon. We napped, read and generally passed the time. We can walk about a hundred feet from camp to a tremendous view of half of Alaska. The team is hanging in and hoping for a shot.

Best,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition June 11, 2024

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

fingers crossed for better weather soon!!

Posted by: Seth Cochran on 6/28/2024 at 3:01 am

Keeping good thoughts going the weather is in your favor to summit. Hi Caryn, Love Mom!

Posted by: Divy Karolyi on 6/27/2024 at 3:43 pm

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Muir Spends the Week Training

May 20, 2022

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Nikki Champion

Elevation: 10,080'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Nikki Champion spent the week at Camp Muir honing their alpine mountaineering skills. While the spring storms kept the team from making their summit attempt, they had a valuable week of training the will prepare the climbers for future expeditions on Aconcagua and Denali.

During the week the team learned route planning and preparation, avalanche forecasting, instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations; and a discussion/demonstration of knots, anchors leading into crevasse rescue.

The team will be descending today returning to Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon.

Mountaineering Training | My Go-To Workout

July 7, 2015

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

There is no way around it: there are some days where fitting my planned workout into my schedule is impossible. On the days when chores and errands catch up with me and I don’t have much time to do a workout, I have a go-to workout that I know I can do in 45-50 minutes. On a day when life feels too busy and I’m tempted to blow my workout off, having a quick workout ready helps me to stay motivated and get out the door. My workout involves a short, 10 minute running warm-up, 15 minutes of short intervals, a 5-10 minute cool-down, and a short series of core exercises. Depending on what phase of training I am in and what my goals are, I may alter the pace, number, or duration of my intervals. During my aerobic building phase, I might run at a tempo that is slightly slower than my 5k race pace for 2 minutes, recover at a light jog for 1 minute, and repeat 4 more times. This bump in pace helps to mix up my tempo and keeps my legs feeling a bit quicker, but the effort isn’t so hard that I’m building up large amounts of lactic acid. Later in the season during an intensity phase, I might push the pace of those intervals right to my threshold, or do shorter 1 minute, all out efforts, with a full minute of recovery in between. This helps to build my anaerobic threshold, and develop my ability to recover as well. The warm up and cool down are really important for preventing injuries, and I try to resist the temptation to skip or cut short either. The light core session to close doesn’t necessarily build a lot more strength, like a dedicated strength session would be designed to do, but it gives me maintenance. I mix up the exercises, but an example workout might be:

3 sets of 50 crunches
3 sets of 20 pushups
and 3 sets of 20 dips

I always end this workout with the same series, something that we used to call a “super set” on the college ski team. It consists of:

100 crunches (feet on the ground, curling my torso towards my knees, but not a full sit-up)
50 sit-ups to the side (alternating sides)
25 leg raises (some straight on, some to either side)
and 100 more crunches to finish

Having one piece of my routine that is exactly the same each time lets me develop a benchmark for how my core strength is feeling. While your go to workout doesn’t need to mirror this, try to develop a workout that has definitive goals. If your time is pressed, a short series of intervals will be more beneficial for your fitness than a 30 minute easy jog, most of the time. Having some goals allows you to be focused during the workout, even if it is just for a short period of time. Your go-to workout can be any genre: cycling, running, swimming, or spinning are all good options depending on where you live and can do readily. Remember to build up your strength over time; trying to jump right into a “super set” tomorrow if you haven’t been doing a lot of core strength is a recipe to get injured. Good luck with your training, and stay motivated: it will pay you back in enjoyment many times over on your next climb! _____ Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions, guiding climbs on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley, and abroad. He calls Aspen, CO home, where he also teaches avalanche courses and is a fully-certified ski instructor.

Mt. Rainier: June 14th SUMMIT!

June 14, 2014

Posted by: Lindsay Mann, Josh Maggard, Ben Liken, Katrina Bloemsma, JJ Justman

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by JJ Justman and Lindsay Mann reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported great climbing conditions with winds of about 5 - 15 mph as they climbed above the clouds. The teams will spend some time on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Cory, Hope you enjoyed every minute.
We Love You, Mom and Dad

Posted by: Robert and Lori on 6/14/2014 at 9:11 am

Way to go Rob! Can’t wait to see the pictures.

Posted by: Bob Haley on 6/14/2014 at 8:23 am

Mt. Rainier: August 31, 2013 Update

August 31, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Elevation: 11,800'

The Four Day Summit Climb Led by RMI Guide Dave Hahn reached 11,800’ feet today before encountering firm and icy conditions on the route which forced them to turn around. Dave Hahn reported clear skies and beautiful weather. The team is currently descending from Ingraham Flats and will be back at RMI Basecamp in the early afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job Nathaniel and Matthew - darn weather, atleast the weather let you go further this time than you did last time! Glad you could enjoy the adventure together! I love you both!!!

Posted by: Mama J on 8/31/2013 at 12:08 pm

Dear Jeff and Catherine et al,
We’re so sorry that inclement weather thwarted your ascent up Ranier!Glad that you’re encountering sunny skies on your descent. Our prayers for you and your team continue!
Love you both!!
Dad and Momma et al

Posted by: JimandDiana Smith on 8/31/2013 at 8:35 am

Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Enjoy Spectacular Views While Training

May 19, 2013

Posted by:

Elevation: 7,300'

Today we woke up with clear skies! After breakfast we shouldered our packs and went for a hike to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The Fork offers spectacular views of the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter, South Face of Radio Tower, and the West Face of Kahiltna Queen. We also learned about snow anchors and glacier travel. It was really nice to be able to stretch our legs and hike around. It certainly was a fantastic day. We also had the opportunity to eat dinner outside enjoying the incredible views. The weather is looking nice for the rest of the week, so we will be getting around. Everyone is doing great! RMI Guide Andres Marin

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lis and Pete,

We are very proud of your endurance and stamina.

Wishing you and the team sunny skies for the remaining part of the trip.

Nicole

Posted by: Nicole areson on 5/20/2013 at 10:32 am

So glad the weather has cleared! The photo is awesome, I can’t wait to see the final pics of this spectacular region. Godspeed and I hope that the weather cooperates the rest of the week. JIm Vaughan

Posted by: jim vaughan on 5/19/2013 at 7:26 pm

Aconcagua: Justman & Team head back to Mendoza

December 19, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Hey this is JJ and Team One on Aconcagua, The weather is fouling up the satellite so I will make this quick. We have left Aconcagua Base Camp, and it was probably the worst day walking out of Base Camp I have ever had. Usually we are worried about sunburn, but today we have to be worried about windburn in a blinding blizzard snow storm. Something I have never seen before. It is definitely nice to be out of that weather and a little bit lower in the valley. The team is doing great and we’re real happy. We are actually having a great dinner of filet mignon with the cowboys that are carrying our stuff out via the mules. This will be our Final Dispatch of what was one incredible adventure, with the weather that is still not letting up is going to miserable for the next few days, so hopefully Mendoza will be a little sunnier, a little warmer, and a little more hospitable. The Team definitely deserves it! Thanks again everyone for following along, and definitely stay tuned because Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens, and I will be back at it with another Expedition her on Aconcagua. We hope the weather gods will be kinder to us. I can’t say enough great things about this team and the great experience we have had. No summit but that is the way the weather goes. That’s all for now from Argentina, Ciao! JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens, and Team

JJ and Team head for Mendoza

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Todd McClure- Todd, I am praying for your safety and that you have an amazing time. I can’t wait to hear stories in late January about the climb. One step at a time!!! Tim Dolan

Posted by: Tim Dolan on 1/2/2013 at 12:52 pm

This is a shout out for Todd McClure. Todd, thanks for the link and I hope you get this. I’ll be thinking about you and your effort and all you stand for and know that you’ve got what it takes. Drink lots of water and you should be fine. Altitude headaches are horrible, and hopefully you’ll acclimatize well. You’re big and strong and can carry a lot of weight which should help your team. I’m thinking the best for you and your group. What an adventure.

Posted by: Bart Blankenship on 12/29/2012 at 10:40 am

Mt. McKinley: Billy Nugent & Team Reach the Summit!

May 27, 2011

Posted by:

Billy Nugent and team reached the summit of Mt. McKinley today - May 27th! Billy called in at 7:15 p.m. PT from the Football Field, they were en route back to High Camp at 17,000’. Everyone was doing well. Congratulations to Billy, Solveig and the team!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in after reaching the summit

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey DREW!... its Grandpop here. What a greta adventure .he photos are awesome When you get back, i’ll want to see all of them and hear of the adventure.

Take care on your way down.

Love,
Grandpop

Posted by: Bob AKA "Grandpop" on 5/29/2011 at 7:24 am

Solveig you are the greatest. We are so proud of you! Have a safe trip down, Way to go! Aunt Virgnia, Laurel,Holly,and Heather

Posted by: Virginia Peterson on 5/29/2011 at 3:50 am

Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Carry Gear Above Fixed Lines

May 29, 2023

Posted by: Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland

Elevation: 14,000'

Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 8:50 pm PT

Hello readers,

Today we woke to descent weather for our carry. It was cold and crisp with clouds flowing here and there. We took off still in the shadows. In not too long we were in the sun with a breeze. We were one of the first people to leave camp and get to the fixed lines. They were icy but with great steps that made it feel secure. This is a steep portion of the mountain and the team gave it their all. After a several hours we were at the top of the fixed lines. There we decided to cache our gear and use the rest of our energy to get down safely. The clouds finally rolled fully in and snow began to fall. We made it back to camp surrounded by white. It has been a long hard day and we are all ready for some rest and that's exactly what we will do tomorrow.

So good night all,

RMI Guides Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lookin forward to more good weather updates! Hope that ramen from the last update is treating you well, it’s making me want some ramen too. Can’t imagine it hits as hard in 75°F weather as it does up on Denali, though. Keep goin strong Corey!!

Anna + Bennett (who literally just had wisdom teeth removed but he wishes you the best in spirit)

Posted by: Anna Nolan on 5/31/2023 at 11:35 am

Hey Hannah! Sending Best wishes and Strength and Stamina to You and Team Tatas!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/30/2023 at 3:23 am

Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Reaches 12,300’

April 16, 2015

Posted by: Brent Okita, Seth Waterfall, Elias de Andres Martos, Ben Liken