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Mt. McKinley: June 4th Team Beren - Ready in Talkeenta

Wednesday, June 5, 2013 Hello, This is the RMI Mt. McKinley June 4th Expedition. The whole team is here in Talkeetna, Alaska, packed and ready to rock. Today we packed up, checked our gear and sat in on a National Park Service orientation to preview a bit of the upcoming adventure. The team is excited and ready to launch. So far the flying weather hasn't let many folks land these days, but it appears to be stabilizing just in time for us to storm the SE fork of the Kahiltna. With any luck we'll fly out tomorrow morning, so we better get some rest tonight. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Have fun & be safe - big props from Seattle!

Posted by: Stacey Guerrero on 6/8/2013 at 8:49 pm

Zurich wishes all the best and good luck for the whole team.

Posted by: Tom&Jerry;$ on 6/6/2013 at 12:06 pm


Cotopaxi Express:  Seth Waterfall & Team Take Acclimatization Hike

Hey, this is Seth checking in from our Ecuadorian Hacienda Chilcabamba near Cotopaxi. We had a lovely day on the Illinizas acclimatizing. Today we reached an elevation of just over 15,000 feet. The group is doing great and today after having lunch at the Refugio de New Horizons we descended back to our van and drove over here to the hacienda. We are about to have dinner and as I look out the window of the hacienda dining room I can just see Cotopaxi breaking out of the clouds. We were in mix of rain and hail for a little bit today with cloudy skies throughout the day. Then just as we pulled up to our hacienda we got our first glimpse of the mountain. We are all psyched to get rolling tomorrow and we are going to head up to the Cotopaxi Refugio and we'll be there for two nights. We will check in again soon. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good job guys you are doing great I would never be able to climb this moutain like you guys are and you are really brave to sleep out there in the camp with noises and animals! I hope so far you had a good time climbing the moutain I miss you daddy. Keep up the good work and be brave not scard. P.S i read the blog everyday. Enjoy your climbing. I will let you go.
    Love, Alexa

Posted by: Alexa McClane on 7/7/2011 at 7:03 am

Looking forward to the details of the adventure. Be safe and enjoy every minute.

The Adair Avenue Hiking Club

Posted by: Keith Ellenberg on 7/6/2011 at 4:14 pm


Visit to Lama Geshe

We awoke to an amazingly clear morning with the surrounding peaks dusted in a fresh coat of white from yesterday afternoon's snowfall. We hit the trail early, weaving our way out of Deboche's rhododendron forests, across a soaring bridge high above the Dudh Kosi, and then gradually climbing up the western side of the valley, soaking in the morning sun. Taking a side tour from the main route, we climbed up past several rows of mani stones to the village of Upper Pangboche. There we visited Lama Geshe, a well known and respected spiritual leader of the area. After paying our respects to him he proceeded to lead our small climbing team through a blessing ceremony, requesting safe passage from Chomolungma, the goddess of Everest and the Khumbu area, for our trek and climb ahead. Amidst chanting, throwing of rice, the burning of incense, and many hearfelt laughs, Lama Geshe gave a letter to each of us to carry with us on our climb, draped a kata scarf over our heads, and tied a small red string around our necks. A very geniune and happy person, it is difficult to leave the presence of Lama Geshe not feeling calmed, refreshed, and excited about the adventures ahead. After saying goodbye, we continued out of the small cluster of buildings of Pangboche, gradually ascending higher up the valley, past more mani stones, chortens, and a beautiful mural of Guru Rinpoche, the Buddhist lama credited with bringing Buddhism to the area, painted onto a cliff face. The team is clearly acclimatizing well and walking strongly because we arrived at our destination - the small village of Pheriche - by midday, even with our long stopover at Lama Geshes. We have spent the afternoon relaxing in the comfortable dining room of our teahouse, chatting with fellow trekkers and the doctors of the nearby Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) Clinic, and getting comfortable in the thin air of 14,000'. We will stay another day in Pheriche tomorrow, going for a day hike above the valley and continuing to prepare our bodies for higher altitudes. We will check-in tomorrow when we return.
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Denali Expedition: Cifelli & Team Return to High Camp after Summit

People like to throw around the word ‘Conquer’ in reference to the mountains they climb. As if they defeated the mountain when they touched its apex. I find this to be a distasteful representation of summiting a mountain and as we crawled into our sleeping bags in the crisp, cold air of Denali’s 17,200K we certainly didn’t feel like conquerors. Tired, cold, and atrophied from the last 18 days on the mountain we slept knowing that Denali had granted us the opportunity to touch its peak and not that we had bested it.

The team awoke to clear skies and one of the first green lights we received from Denali, it was time to climb. At 10:25, we started our journey upward not reaching the summit until a hard, but well fought, ~10 hours. We are back down at High Camp; tired, sore, but satisfied with the effort and accomplishment. We start downward tomorrow in search of all of the cravings we have been fantasizing about.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

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Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Carry Gear to 14,000ft, Return to 11,000ft Camp

Monday, May 22, 2023 - 10:50 pm PT

We set an early alarm, and peaked our heads out the tent to see what the weather was doing. Surprised to find clear skies above us, we blasted the stoves and got every up for a quick breakfast of oatmeal. After eating a quick breakfast, we loaded up our packs with the group gear, and personal food we wanted to cache and began the first stretch of the climb requiring crampons. Up until now, we have been on a long rope interval, and primarily in snowshoes. From here on out we will be climbing in crampons, and using an ice axe. Just as sun hit camp, we began our way up the steep Motorcycle Hill, around the corner up Motorcycle Hill, through the broken up Polo Field and around Windy Corner. The morning was cold, the wind was howling for the first few stretches but by the time we got to the corner, the wind had died down and we were warming up. We passed the common cache site at 13,500' and made our way up to 14,000 Camp, where we were greeted by other RMI teams. We buried our cache, and then headed back downhill to 11,000' Camp for the night. We made a big dinner of Annie's Mac and Cheese and bacon, and then promptly crawled into our sleeping bags after a long day. The team did great today, setting us up well. We are looking forward to another slow morning, and rest before fully moving to 14 Camp.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds amazing!. Hope you are having fun, Kevin!

Posted by: Jim Boerger on 5/27/2023 at 3:50 pm

Way to go!! Rest up!!! Cheering from Houston. Go Dawny! Go Robin!! And go team!!

Posted by: tiff on 5/24/2023 at 11:27 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Hang at 11,000 ft due to weather

Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 11:09 pm PT

Today was a bit of a groundhog day, though if anything, the weather made itself pretty clear as far as its intentions. Intermittently gusty winds and consistent snow made it an easy day to hang in the tents reading, watching movies, playing cards, and sawing logs. We're currently cooking a dinner of a curried rice and miso soup. We'll welcome the sleeping bags for another good night of sleep and see what tomorrow brings.

RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great to read the blog and get your messages, Hank!  Prayers and fingers crossed for improved weather to move forward for safety and success!

Posted by: Nancy Thoenes on 5/22/2021 at 4:11 am

Bummer… Waiting is good for Jason’s back, I think??? Hopefully tomorrow will work out and you can cache!

Posted by: Mandy Powell on 5/21/2021 at 5:43 pm


Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Move to 17K Camp

Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 6:09 PM PT We woke up early this morning. 5am to be exact. 14K Camp is full of eager climbers waiting, likely everybody else, for their shot at the summit. The problem with extended bad weather is that climbers stack up in the queue. Like a dam during spring runoff, eventually you have to open the flood gates to release the back up to prevent the dam from over flowing. Well, our theoretical opening of the flood gates manifests as a decent weather window for climbing. We braved the cold, got packed up, ate a quick breakfast and were on the move by 7:15am. Over two hours before the sun normally hits camp. About halfway up the fixed lines we started to receive a little filtered sun and fingers and toes began to finally thaw out. A quick glance back down the terrain we had just climbed confirmed our need for an early departure. The flood gates had opened. 50-75 people streamed out of camp in a solid single-file line. We felt pretty good about being so far ahead of the human onslaught. The West Buttress itself is easily the most aesthetic portion of the entire ascent. The buttress offers steep climbing, wild exposure and views of the Alaska Range and it's expansive blanket of tundra that unfolds to the East. The weather stayed quite pleasant for us as we ascended the ridge that would eventually lead us to our high camp at 17,000ft. Soon enough steep terrain and exposure led to the gentle slopes of the Upper Peters Glacier. We sauntered our way into camp. There is already a small village of erected tents hunkered down in a scoop of snow sculpted by the wind. We opted to travel a bit further and build camp where no one has yet. We've gotten quite efficient at the process and within a short time were all hunkered in warm sleeping bags as out of the elements. The weather at the moment is a bit cloudy with light snow showers and light winds. Not completely unpleasant but not perfect either. Tomorrow we will try and climb to the summit of Denali assuming that weather and conditions allow. The team is poised and ready, all we need now is to be allowed safe passage. We will wake up early again tomorrow morning, stick our heads out of the tent and hope we like what we see! Thanks for following along! RMI Guide Steve Gately
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James—Always the Eagle flies high!  Happy thoughts coming your way for this ultimate ‘touch of Denali’!  Smiles and hugs from Nana

Posted by: Pat Howell on 5/29/2019 at 11:36 am

So happy to hear of good progress. Cheering for you from WI! Hoping for fair conditions in the days to come!

Posted by: Lauren Germann on 5/29/2019 at 7:04 am


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day

Monday, June 24th, 2013 Today the team enjoyed a well deserved day of relaxation and gluttony. After three days of early starts we had a leisurely morning of coffee and breakfast burritos followed by some high intensity competitive napping. Unfortunately it was too close a match to declare a winner at this point, stay tuned for the sudden death nap-off during our next rest day. Before dinner we reviewed crampon techniques and discussed our carry to 13,200' tomorrow. Mac and Cheese with bacon for dinner should provide sufficient calories to fuel us for mañana. We have been lucky thus far with excellent weather and the forecast is looking just as good. Knock on wood, I sure hope that didn't jinx us. Thanks to friends and family for tuning in. RMI Guides Geoff, Robby, Pete, and our stellar team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mac and cheese with bacon??  Set another place, I’ll stop by.

I hope the good weather holds up for you guys.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/25/2013 at 8:45 am

Tommy, it’s awesome to hear you had a great day of rest! I hope you were able to find some special quiet time to journal and reflect in the amazing beauty that surrounds you. I was so happy to be able to see Brandon last night for prom. He was so handsome, just like his dad. It brought back special memories! I will be praying for the tough day ahead. I know how strong you are, though, and that gives me strength. I love you!
Rhonda

Posted by: Rhonda Kitchen on 6/25/2013 at 7:21 am


Aconcagua: Nugent & Team Carry to Camp 1

Today's weather report: not so good. We woke up this morning here at Plaza Argentina in a cloud with it steadily dropping gloppy snow. The prospect of a successful carry up to Camp 1 was looking dismal but we decided to get up and fire the stoves anyway. Over the course of breakfast and our morning coffee the weather began to improve and by 10 am we were looking at some continuing light precip but nothing that would hold us back. The team rallied, geared up, and hit the trail. With a six-hour round trip effort we were able to put in a sizable cache of food, fuel, and cold weather gear up at Camp 1 (16,200'). The team performed well despite unstable scree and our first real taste of carrying big loads at high altitude. Ciao, RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador: Weather Delays Move to High Hut

Hola amigos: The last few nights have been a bit windy to say the least and the rattling of the windows has been soothing to some of us, and not so much for others. So we've had a few traditional siestas during the day. Our plan was to move up to a higher camp today, but due to weather and acclimatization we have decided to spend one more night here in the cozy hut. Thankfully Adam greeted the team with plenty of pancakes and coffee this morning, which helped start the day. We then headed out to do some training not far from the hut and did a short hike to get a better look at our route. A number of climbers arrived today and are planning on climbing Cayambe tonight, which is good news for us. Hopefully they will be successful and kick in a good trail to help us out. Other than that all is well here at just over 15'000'. Everyone is happy and hungry and looking forward to dinner. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Go team.  America is counting on you to bring home the glory.  Or at least a good story.

Posted by: Scott Humphrey on 1/8/2013 at 5:49 pm

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