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The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Nick Hunt were forced to turn at the top of Disappointment Cleaver today. The team faced stormy weather with strong winds with knee deep snow is some places. They are on the descent and will return to Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Team!

The guide team monitored weather conditions throughout the night, only to find snow and poor visibility each time we looked out of our tent. With our time frame and weather forecast, our plan for the day is to pack up camp and take as much time as we need to get down the Chimneys safely. We'll send another dispatch from town. Until then- RMI Guide Zeb Blais & Team

There wasn't much chance to finish the journey this morning as it snowed until about 8 AM. By nine the sun was poking through and we knew we couldn't count on the glacier surface being firm enough for safe travel. So we sat for the day and waited for a clear and cold night. We've waited through many days on this trip and this was one of the tougher ones. Denali was out in all of its glory and although from a distance we could no longer tell just how much snow it had gotten or how hard the wind might be blowing, it sure looked climbable. Our climbing tomorrow morning will be in the other direction, but these will surely be the most important steps we take on the entire trip. The lower glacier in mid-July demands respect. We'll get moving by three or four in the morning and will try to reach the airstrip by 9 or 10. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Our climbing team is rested and well-fed, and we’re all back in Quito enjoying some free time as I right this last dispatch for our trip. We had a great trip, jam-packed with activities during the past week. In addition to summiting 3 high peaks in 4 days, we had time to enjoy a great hacienda on the flanks of Cotopaxi, some sightseeing in Quito, as well as enjoying each others’ company. We’re already starting to plan the next climbing trip! We’ll have a celebration dinner in Quito tonight, and then we’ll head our separate directions…most of us are heading home, but two of the climbers are headed to Mendoza, Argentina tomorrow to begin a RMI expedition on Aconcagua. Be sure to check their dispatches to follow how they are doing! Hasta la próxima montaña… RMI Guide Mike Walter

Friday, June 23, 2023 – 12:33 am PDT

As usual, the weather didn't look all that great when we got up at 11,000’ Camp, so we dragged our feet while getting breakfast and packing up and watched things evolve.

We eventually committed to moving up and hit the trail at 11:20 AM.  Hard work, as usual, but the team handled it all quite well. We had good luck in that Dominic Cifelli’s RMI Team was ahead of us breaking trail. It was fine to see RMI Guide Andy Bond's and crew coming down and we wished them a safe trip out.

We pulled in to 14,000’ Camp at 5:30 PM and began the tough work of building another camp. We ate outside this evening but will have the dining tent completed for AM.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Hello readers,

We woke for our last trekking day. The trail and teahouses have gotten busier as the Everest climbing season is kicking off. While for many they are just starting their adventure, we are ending ours. By 8:30 am we were off headed down trail. We had a lot of stairs ahead of us but also lots of motivation to tackle all of them. As the morning turned into the afternoon it felt like we were going the wrong way on a one way. Hundreds of people were walking in along with train after train of mules. This must be what it feels like to be a salmon swimming up stream. We did what we could to weave through the crowds. Man do we feel lucky to have been trekking during the quiet time of the season. Eight hours later we took our last steps up the stairs leading into Lukla, the town we flew into and our starting point. We left here jetlegged, bright eyed, and clean. Now we look a little weathered and worn down, but our eyes have seen so much beauty and we have had experiences to last at least a few months before the itch to sign up for another adventure takes hold. Tonight is our last night in a teahouse. Tomorrow we fly back to Kathmandu and join the hustle and bustle of a major city. It's been over two weeks in this valley and an amazing time it's been. Now hopefully it's clear skies and smooth flying in the morning. 

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Abby, and Team

Friday, June 11, 2021 - 8:06 pm PT

Greetings from 7,800 Camp,

The early morning greeted us with views of all the surrounding peaks: Hunter, Foraker, and Francis. After filling our bellies with instant coffee and bacon bagel sandwiches we broke down camp, loaded the sleds, clipped into the ropes and hit the glacier. The day started with a gradual downhill to give us a nice warmup to the heavy sleds. Four miles later with achy hips, back and feet we arrived to our new home for the day. It was a hard, heavy day but the team handled it with flying colors. The rest of the day was filled with naps, munching on snacks, and a game of cards. Tomorrow's agenda is to move to 9,500 Camp. Ski hill will be our morning warmup, so an early night to rest up is a must.

Early to bed, early to rise,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

Our first steps out of the Barranco Camp at 8:30 this morning brought us to the Great Barranco Wall. It can be an intimidating feature when seen from a distance as it appears to be just that... a wall. But there is a trail of ledges and handholds and well-worn steps over the lava outcroppings that can work just fine for scaling the wall. Our entire team was climbing well and strong and as it turned out, our main concern was traffic. It was rush hour on the wall. Hundreds of porters and climbers from other teams were all trying to squeeze through the ledges at the same time. Things eased by the halfway point as the crowd spread and we were able to concentrate on the big steps. We were up the wall in about an hour and onto much easier hiking. We'd enjoyed some pretty decent views upward toward Kilimanjaro's main peak earlier in the day, but we were still seeing nothing below but a sea of clouds. Gradually we came to be under a giant umbrella of cloud centered on the summit. It was a relatively short time before we dropped into the Karanga Valley and climbed out its steep opposite side to walk into Karanga Camp. We are all getting into a pretty smooth routine now of breaking camp, climbing and then moving into new camps. We sheltered in our tents for some light afternoon rain showers, and were happy to come together in the roomy dining dome for afternoon tea and dinner. Partial clearing after dinner allowed great views of the lights of Moshi, glowing far below. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

It is 11 PM at the Dik Dik Hotel near Arusha, Tanzania, and the entire climbing team has made it through the worldwide obstacle course of airports and aircraft to begin a Kilimanjaro expedition. We'll get started in the morning with strategizing and packing gear and prepping, but for now it it just a great relief to have everybody in one place (the correct place) and to have all the baggage safely off the carousels. Our drivers and hotel staff gave each tired traveler a friendly hello, a handshake, a glass of champagne and a flower or two. The kitchen stayed up late to get an excellent dinner out to each and every climber. We'll hope that a night's good rest goes a long way to refreshing, rebooting and rejuvenating the gang. An adventure is waiting. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Friday, July 5th, 2013 10:57 p.m. PST Finally a break in the weather. Things calmed down during the night and the upper layer of clouds began to dissipate. As we watched for an hour or two beginning at 5 AM, the weather went back and forth for a while, but once we committed to getting the team up and getting going, it all began to go our way. We dealt with slightly cooler temperatures and steady breezes as we left camp at 9 AM for our carry, but we had big blue skies overhead which was great for everybody's morale. Snow conditions were perfect for walking, which was a little surprising after so many days of falling snow. It seems that it had been such a long dry spell previously, that the surface had gotten firm from wind and sun. When new snow landed on that surface, it just blew clean. At any rate, it was perfect for our crampons today. We got up Motorcycle Hill and halfway up Squirrel Hill in the first hour, which entitled us to enjoy grand views of The Northwest Buttress and the Peter's Glacier. The second hour took us into the "Polo Field" as folks now call the basin which the end of the West Buttress towers over. We moved through this area without much visibility as another cloud had found us. By the time we reached Windy Corner, we were walking out of the cloud and getting big views again. Windy Corner has been a concern for several weeks now as the June heat wave had produced a rockfall hazard in the area. But there had to be some benefit to the storm that was keeping us down, it froze things up nicely above the corner and our passage was fast and safe. We cached food and fuel at 13,600', just past the corner. It had taken four and a half hours to reach our destination. We buried things deep to thwart the cache robbing ravens, and then began an easy descent with light packs. By 3:45, we were back in camp, basking in sunshine. There is still plenty of cloud around, but for the moment it is below us. We hope it stays that way as we want to move to 14,200' tomorrow. All were excited and energized to finally see beyond the corner. Denali's South Peak was no longer far away or on some horizon, it was front and center... and gigantic. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map