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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Fly to the Kahiltna Glacier

June 1, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

May 31, 2017 The team woke up this morning, ate one last home cooked breakfast and gathered at the hanger where our gear was waiting at K2 Aviation. The bad weather of the last few days cleared up over night and we anticipated being able to fly into the range early this morning. We all spent a few moments finalizing our backpacks and duffels when K2 gave us the thumbs up. We quickly loaded up two aircraft with everything we'll need for the next three weeks and before we knew it we were in world of flowing ice, snow and rock. A 45 minute plane ride takes you from the comforts of town and puts you rather abruptly in a harsh environment and every year I'm always amazed at how I never quite get used to how quickly life changes in Talkeetna. For many decades starting in the early 1900's expeditions would start there journey with a week or more of toiling through the Alaskan bush just to reach where we have flown in under an hour. I'll take the plane please! An hour spent repacking and gearing up had us walking down the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier by noon. The skies were blue, the temps pleasant and the views massive. Only once in the last 4 years have I had the pleasure of walking up the Kahiltna Glacier with a view and the team did great readjusting to life in the range. Five hours of hard work brought us to our first camp at the base of Ski Hill at 7,800ft. We spent the afternoon setting up our camp. The team is now tucked in for the night getting some well earned rest. Tomorrow we will cache some gear at 10,000ft then return back to 7,800 to sleep. Forecast is calling for more good weather tomorrow and the team is excited to explore new terrain! Thanks for following along everyone. RMI Guide Steve Gately

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Hi!!! Thinking about you tons! Hope u r enjoying every minute! Can’t wait to hear all about it in person! Love Us

Posted by: Cosco Clan on 6/2/2017 at 2:51 pm

Good morning to all
Wish I could make you all my famous meatballs and homemade pasta
Be safe
You have hundreds of people sending you all good wishes and prayers
Love you Stephen
mom/dad - aka Tina and John

Posted by: Tina Zabinski on 6/2/2017 at 6:11 am

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Aconcagua: Stevens & Team Settled in at Camp 1

January 5, 2014

Posted by: Ben Liken

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 16,450'

Today the team awoke to blue skies and calm winds for our last basecamp breakfast before we begin to ascend the upper slopes of Aconcagua. After some coffee and a few last minute preparations we were on our way to a night at 16,450'. As we set off up the moraine with the sun at our backs everything seemed perfect. The team made short work of the day and before too long we were on the steep scree just before Camp 1. Once we arrived and everyone had enjoyed a snack, it was back to work establishing our camp for the next three days. Now after a solid tortellini meal we are all stuffed into our -30 degree sleeping bags awaiting the beautiful stars of the Southern Hemisphere. Tomorrow we carry a load of gear to over 18,000' and the team is ready for it. You'll here from us soon! RMI Guides Garrett, Ben, and Nick

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Keep up the great work guys. So proud to call you my friend Stefan. Miss your smiling face but know you are having a blast. Stay safe!

Posted by: Martha on 1/6/2014 at 4:31 am

Good job Stefan. Stacy runs the marathon Sunday am. Beat her up the mountain!

Posted by: Skipper on 1/5/2014 at 9:06 pm

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Haugen and Team Wait Another Day

June 30, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Hello from Mt. McKinley. We woke up early this morning to clear skies and no wind at 14k Camp. Elias and I got all dressed, left the tent, and took a look at the ridge at 17,000'. There were huge cloud plumes flowing over the ridge and spiraling into the sky; an obvious indicator of weather no bueno. Given the recent snows up high and the high winds, we decided to sit it out a day and give it a go tomorrow if weather cooperates. The forecast calls for improving weather trends, so we should be in position when it gets "nice". The weather did actually turn out to be pretty nice today, so no need to send Joe Horiskey any harassing emails! We will check in again soon. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

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Thanks for all the blogs. Keep up the good work!! What a way to celebrate the 4th. Stay safe.

Posted by: Hickey family on 7/2/2011 at 2:38 pm

Elias, I was so sad to miss your call yesterday. Had the phone off for the Bravo concert. Hope you can try again before the plane leaves for Spain on Friday morning. Suerte con todo. Te echo de menos.

Posted by: Bridget on 6/30/2011 at 8:38 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Summit - June 26th!

June 26, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by Casey Grom and J.J. Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning shortly before 7 am PT. The teams reported nice climbing conditions, light winds and beautiful views this morning. The teams spent an hour on the summit crossing the crater and taking photos before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. After a short rest at Camp Muir to re-pack they will continue down to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb!

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Hola from the Otavalo market

June 27, 2009

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Last night we stayed in Ecuador's oldest hacienda, Guachala. After a good night's sleep, we traveled north to Otavalo. Currently we're enjoying a few hours in the world famous market, shopping for souvenirs and experiencing the indigenous culture. After lunch we'll drive up to the climbers' hut on Cayambe. The weather is beautiful right now, with a light breeze keeping it cool. With any luck, we'll awake around midnight and summit Cayambe a little after sunrise. Then we're back to Quito for a final celebration dinner together before everyone heads back to the states. I'll touch base tomorrow to let you know how our climb went.

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Knoff & Team Train on Cotopaxi

January 26, 2020

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 15,100'

Hello friends, family and all other followers! The team is currently at Refugio Ruales Oleas Bergé, situated at 15,100’ on the SW flank of Volcán Cayambe. We arrived yesterday afternoon in good spirits after pushing through a few downpours on the 4x4 truck ride to the hut. A late dinner was accompanied by tales of past climbs and some impromptu mountain trivia. Other teams in the hut were prepping for a summit bid, we headed to bed early and wished them good luck.

This morning we woke up to some fresh snow and in and out of a cloud. No big deal, our primary goal was to get to the toe of the glacier and do some skills training. Our review of climbing skills was a success, the guides looked at each other in astonishment as literally every team member performed a textbook team arrest position on the first try!

Weather-wise it has been a pretty good day, giving us high hopes for tonight’s climb. The team is fit and seems to be acclimating well, tonight will be the true test!

RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Dustin Wittmier

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Hello everyone…

I’m as impressed as your guides are. You’re an awesome team!!! Believe in your ability. You got this!

You can take a man/woman and measure them, examine them, analyze them and dissect their statistics but you cannot look into their heart. That’s where the thirst is—-the hunger. That’s where desire turns to fire.
By M. L. Carr
LUMTA 1TF

Posted by: Geri Kuehn on 1/28/2020 at 9:29 am

Wishing all a successful summit and a safe trip. Thx for the great blogs!!! Mom

Posted by: Jane on 1/27/2020 at 6:40 am

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Aconcagua: Scott & Team On the Fourth Day… We Took a Rest

January 25, 2020

Posted by: Nick Scott, Dominic Cifelli

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 13,800'

It’s day four of our Aconcagua expedition. Our first rest day for those at home following along. We all got a good sleep in and enjoyed an extended breakfast of eggs, pancakes, and lots of coffee this morning while discussing the itinerary of the next few days. Even though we call it a rest day, there is never a day on a mountaineering expedition when we are doing nothing. While the group enjoyed plenty of down time a good portion of the day was spent packing for our carry tomorrow, sorting group food, going on a short hike to stretch the legs and the lungs, and getting in our park-mandated doctor visit to make sure all climbers are adjusting to the new altitude appropriately. Spoiler alert! Everyone in the group passed their physical and the doctor gave us all the thumbs up to keep cruising up hill. Tomorrow will be the toughest day for the group so far as we shoulder packs and climb to Camp 1 at 16,400ft to cache some of our gear before descending back to basecamp to continue the acclimatization process. I have no doubt this determined group of climbers will perform their task without trouble. Everyone is feeling great and ready for more!

RMI Guide Nick Scott

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Best to you Mark. Reading what you all are doing. Praying that you all enjoy the trip. Love Mom

Posted by: Cornelia Miller on 1/28/2020 at 9:24 am

Mmm pancakes! Go Daryly Dooo, eat them up! We are all cheering for you in Coronado! Good job team! Hoping for good weather tmw!

Posted by: Katie on 1/25/2020 at 5:10 pm

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Huascaran: Elias & Team Arrive at Yanganuco Base Camp

July 7, 2019

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Huascaran

Elevation: 12,800'

Hello from Yanganuco Base Camp. We are camped on a beautiful meadow at 3900m, currently under the rain, but with high enough clouds that we can see the toe of the glaciers above us. We got here yesterday, and after setting camp up, we spent the afternoon hiking to Laguna 69 for acclimatization; one of the major tourist destinations among day hikers in the area. Were going to rest today, and get ready for tomorrow's move to our camp at the base of our 1st objective, Yanapacha. Stay tuned for more! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Mt. Elbrus Ski: Reid & Team Ski from Pastukhova Rocks

June 23, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Reid

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Ski

Elevation: 15,500'

Our timing with the weather was perfect today - as I write this, there's a high intensity hail storm making a lot of clatter on the metal roof of our hut. This morning was beautiful. We ascended up to 15,500', a little beyond Pastukhova Rocks, building on our acclimatization. We were treated to some very nice turns on our 3,000' descent back to the huts, and we got a few jealous looks from climbers walking down on foot. Another great day on Mt. Elbrus. Tomorrow is focused on rest, and the next day we'll see if we can ski from the top! RMI Guide Tyler Reid

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Mt. Elbrus: North Side Teams Moves to Camp 2

August 11, 2014

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside

Elevation: 15,200'

Hello from Camp 2 on Mt. Elbrus, Our plan for today was to wake up early to get a head start and try to get to Camp 2 before the potential afternoon weather moved in. Well, this morning was not like the last three mornings. It was snowing pretty hard at camp, so we once again had a weather delay. This time though, our delay worked. By 9:30 the snow had stopped and most of the clouds had dissipated and we could actually see the twin summits. We were walking shortly after and made it to camp with beautiful weather. The clouds that did remain worked with the sun to create a perfect solar oven. The walk up was very hot and there was literally no escaping the heat until we reached camp. We set up camp in the lower Lenz Rocks, 3000' above Camp 1. Fortunately, the weather cooperated while we established a camp that was ready for the windy reputation of Lenz Rocks. If the weather continues to improve, tomorrow should be our summit day. We are all packed and the team is strong, healthy, and ready for our attempt. We are now tucked into our tents just as the sun is setting over the western flanks of the mountain. The views just get better and better. RMI Guides Jeff Martin and Pete Van Deventer and the Northside Team

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Hi rob. I am praying for safety for you and team. I am so proud of you. Stay strong. Love you so much

Posted by: brendie on 8/12/2014 at 4:18 am

Climb strong Team Elbrus…..almost there…...

Posted by: LD Carani on 8/11/2014 at 8:47 pm

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Most Popular Entries

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Fly to the Kahiltna Glacier

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Aconcagua: Stevens & Team Settled in at Camp 1

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Haugen and Team Wait Another Day

Mt. Rainier: Summit - June 26th!

Hola from the Otavalo market

Ecuador Volcanoes: Knoff & Team Train on Cotopaxi

On The Map

Aconcagua: Scott & Team On the Fourth Day… We Took a Rest

Huascaran: Elias & Team Arrive at Yanganuco Base Camp

Mt. Elbrus Ski: Reid & Team Ski from Pastukhova Rocks

Mt. Elbrus: North Side Teams Moves to Camp 2

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