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Our first Kautz Seminar of the season May 25 - 30, led by RMI Guide Ben Ammon, has spent the past several days training and establishing two expedition-style camps on the mountain. Today, the team made their summit attempt ascending the Kautz Ice Chute. However, moderate winds and light precipitation prevented them from reaching the summit. They are now descending and will return to camp for a final night on the mountain. Tomorrow, they will complete their descent to Paradise before heading back to Rainier Basecamp to conclude their program.
Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Eight days ago eleven mountaineers drawn from around the globe to climb Mexican volcanoes gathered in a circle to introduce themselves. The group of two guides and nine climbers was comprised of friends from home, acquaintances from prior climbs, and some who were strangers to all.
Dominic, Ben, Catherine, Eric, Erica, Jean-Paul, Kat, Rich, Rossi, Thinus, and Woody came to Mexico with widely varied backgrounds, climbing resumes, and individual expectations. However, the group shared the common objectives of summiting La Malinche, Ixta, and Orizaba.
Frustration on La Malinche.
One of our group was felled below the tree line by a violent eruption of food poisoning. Half of the remaining climbers passed on attempting the last couple hundred meters to conserve energy for the week of climbing ahead. The remainder were turned back just 100m from the summit by local authorities closing the mountain early to clear the trails of spectators following the Sky Race.
Why do we climb?
Frustration on Ixta.
The team, strengthened by the addition of our local guide Allen, made high camp but our summit attempt was blown away by the violent eruptions of nearby Popo. The group descended to base camp powdered with ash and weighted with disappointment.
Why do we climb?
One last chance on Orizaba.
Setting out on the approach under the nurturing light of la luna and a clear star-speckled sky, the team was full of anticipation. We flowed up the oddly iced Jamapa glacier, traversed a segment of the mountain, climbed a challenging compact chimney, scrambled up seemingly endless scree, and then basked in the sunbeams of el sol, standing tall on the summit of the 3rd highest mountain in North America at 18,491 ft
(5,636m) of elevation. Elation.
Why we climb.
Through a week of hard work and at times harder play, the team have deepened pre-existing friendships and created potential to expand acquaintanceships. Strangers no more. Now we are sitting at breakfast, ready to return home and then continue our climbing journeys together and alone.
Why we climb…
Climber Jean-Paul Rebillard
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes February 24, 2024
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Tuesday, May 18, 2021 - 6:21 pm
Our team enjoyed a well-deserved rest day today. The timing was perfect, as our team was ready for it and the weather was a bit squirrelly today; the colder temps, breezy conditions and light snow didn't bother us at all as we lounged in our tents, reading, listening to music, snoozing and snacking.
The weather forecasts indicate improving conditions tomorrow and warming temps by Thursday. Our next mission will be to move camp up to Genet Basin, at 14,200'. We hope to tackle that tomorrow if the weather is good in the morning. If not, Thursday looks promising, and another day of rest and acclimatization at 11,200' will only help us.
We'll let you know either way tomorrow. Stay tuned.
Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
On The Map
Hi Pieter,
I have been quietly following your progress and the memories have been flooding back. The photos look incredible. So very jealous and wish I was sharing it with you.
Fantastic effort getting the cache all the way to 17k in a one-er! Wow, that’s a big day!
I hope the storm abates and the mountain opens the route higher for you…all that new ground to explore.
Stay safe Pieter…looking forward to seeing you and hearing all about it later in the year. Paul
Posted by: Paul Summers on 5/26/2019 at 2:00 am
It was nice to hear of your day of sunshine! Stay warm and safe as the atmospheric storm approaches this weekend! A special callout to Tom M - we are all following your accent and keeping our fingers crossed for a successful summit this year! xo
Posted by: Susan Mulvey on 5/25/2019 at 8:36 am
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
Gloria, you are AWESOME!!! We are ALWAYS so proud of you (and team) whether you make it to the top or not. We can’t wait to see more pictures. Dana says it’s exciting to live his climbing dreams vicariously through you. :-) BIG HUGS!!!!!!
Posted by: Susan and Dana on 12/30/2018 at 5:18 pm
Posted by: Steve Gately, Kel Rossiter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Please tell Christina be careful and we love her so much. Christina’s Dad and Mom
Posted by: Guoliang Xu on 6/14/2018 at 12:06 am
Congratulations to the team! Well done! It seems as if we crossed paths just yesterday. Happy trails out.
Posted by: Wolf Riehle on 8/1/2015 at 7:11 pm
Excitement and “Vivas” !!!
Congrats and pat on the back for each of you… GREAT JOB!!
A huge hug from your family, Jesse
Mom, Dad, Virgie, Evencio Jr, and Zelda
<3 you!
Posted by: Luz on 8/1/2015 at 5:41 pm
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
On The Map
Craig,
Will be in Talkeetna to play at the Fairview Inn on Wednesday. Hope to see you then if you have not flown out already.
Bom sucesso!!!
Nick
Posted by: Nick Kantar on 6/24/2015 at 3:59 pm
Proud of you Mr. Chowdry….to the top my friend
Posted by: Tony on 6/24/2015 at 3:51 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
So thankful y’all were able to finally fly out! Stay safe.. So excited to follow this journey! Proud of you Chris! Love you!
Posted by: Brooke Q on 5/10/2015 at 9:03 pm
Saw that you’re on Kahiltna. .Awesome. ..What an Adventure! Love the blog and following your trek Chris Q. ! Be careful! Can’t wait for the videos! !
Vanessa and Jeff Rose
Posted by: Vanessa Frazier Rose on 5/10/2015 at 4:23 pm
Lovely, profound reflection.
Wonderful words, memorable illustrations.
Thank you.
And congratulation.
From Midwest USA flatlands.
Waltero
Posted by: Walter Glover on 3/4/2024 at 1:58 am
A great ending to what I am sure was an incredible experience. The breakfast of course I meant. I write in my recovery journal about how the mountaineers that reach summit never focus on summit really - the ones that succeed are the ones that live in the moment and enjoy the process of the climb in and of itself whatever that means to them. Your story is very beautiful.
#mahalo
Posted by: Scott Lipinoga on 3/4/2024 at 1:26 am
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