Hi all,
The whole team arrived in Lima late last night for our Alpamayo Expedition. We gathered for breakfast this morning at the hotel and excitement is running high. Shortly after breakfast we packed and loaded our van for the long drive to Huaraz. Huaraz is a beautiful town in the foothills of the Cordillera Blanca at 10,000' surrounded by stunning peaks. After arriving at our hotel we met our Peruvian guide, William, and discussed some logistics for the up coming days, spent some time relaxing, and had a fantastic dinner. Tomorrow we will go for a short hike before resting and packing for the approach.
Thanks for following along with us,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
* I meant to say: sending good vibes.. :)
Happy Sunday, guys.
God be with you!
Posted by: Luz on 7/26/2015 at 1:59 pm
How’s everything going up there? Sending god vibes and hopping to hear from you, guys.
Share your adventures :D..
Have a great Saturday.
Love you, Jesse.
Tuesday June 23rd 6:48 pm PT
Greetings from another partly cloudy day here on Denali. Great weather and calm winds enabled us to push a cache up the mountain today around Windy Corner just shy of Camp 4. We were afforded glimpses of blue skies and the upper mountain through the clouds while we were preparing and covering up our supplies. We actually stumbled upon a perfectly sized cache hole abandoned by another party so little digging was necessary. Between that and the weather we've been making out pretty easy thus far. No matter, our team is gelling well and ready for the challenges that lie ahead.
Sitting pretty back at 11...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
I am glad to hear that about a father and son team climbing together. As we climb mountains we get stronger physically, but as we face mountains in our faith we must climb over them and as we do we get stronger in our faith. Remember that God is with you on every step and that He will never leave you so all of us are always with our Heavenly Father as we climb
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 6/25/2015 at 8:12 am
Doug, been thinking about your trek back to Denali often, and wish you good weather and good companionship as you reach this next goal. Best of luck and stay safe!
Wednesday, June 10th 10:15 pm PT
The winds subsided enough today to allow us safe passage back to our buried cache at 9,600 feet. It was a fun stroll and though we broke trail in a full whiteout to get there, we enjoyed extremely pleasant walking conditions on our quest for the rest of our snacks.
The afternoon held time for a nap and a review of climbing techniques before dinner. If the weather cooperates we are set to jet and bump a load higher on the route tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Date: Thursday, February 19th
Time: 6:30 PM to 9:30 PM (CST)
Location: Arc'teryx Minneapolis
Small Q&A with Arc'teryx pro athlete and RMI Guide Katie Bono where she will be answering questions for attendees about their own upcoming trips to Rainier, Denali, Shasta or Whitney. With Katie's vast experience, she will be happy to provide insight and advise. Arc'teryx Minneapolis will be providing appetizers and a micro brew for this intimate discussion. Click here to reserve free tickets and more details.
After nearly two weeks of progress moving in fits and starts, as we move camps, carry gear, and take rest days to acclimatize, the last several days suddenly start to rush by. We had a great, though very difficult, summit day yesterday. The sun shone in a completely clear, brilliant, azur sky, but as has been the nature of the last several days, the wind continued to rush on. We prepared in gusty conditions that made it uninviting to leave the tent, and donned our packs. For much of the climb we received only gusts, protected from the main force of the wind, the constant noise of which we couldn't ignore. This region has received very little precipitation for the last several years, and the results of that were the second major challenge of the climb. Where snow fields usually provide nice cramponing, only sand existed, and climbing sand hills at 22,000 feet is no small task. We persisted, and at 2:45, crested the summit of Aconcagua.
Time flies, and while that was only yesterday afternoon, it feels much further removed. We woke this morning to the ever present wind gusts plastering the tent to our face, and packed our bags to head to base camp. As we descended, we picked up the items that we had cached at our previous camps, so our packs grew heavier, even as the air grew thicker. We arrived at base camp to a delicious spread, which was followed up shortly with our first carne dinner in a while. We organized our bags for the mules, and tomorrow we will reverse our course, once again carrying light day packs as we descend the Relinchos and Vacas Valleys back towards Penitentes, and ultimately Mendoza. Everyone is excited at the prospect of more beef, wine, and warm temperatures that await us in the coming days. Thanks for following,
RMI Guides Pete, Alex, Juan and team
RMI Guide Jake Beren and the Four Day Summit Climb team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team enjoyed warm, calm weather while on the summit. They are currently descending back to Camp Muir where they will pack up and refuel before continuing their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the team in Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's team.
Today the Alpamayo team made a big jump and moved a portion of our group gear up to the next camp, Moraine Camp (16,200'). We moved well and were at the cache site by late morning. Despite feeling good, everyone was breathing hard and we were happy to drop back to our basecamp at 14,200'.
The food on this trip has been phenomenal. Everyday our cook, Raul, impresses us with his culinary prowess. From veggie omelettes to grilled trout to fresh cut fruit salad every night, we have been eating like kings. I suspect the amazing food has a strong correlation to how good we all feel.
All for now. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Alpamayo team
May 18, 2014 10:50 pm PT
Shortly after finishing dinner last night some light clouds sauntered into camp and began lightly snowing on us. Soon thereafter the winds kicked up and we had a moderately noisy nights rest with the wind sending our forecasted 6" of snow into outer space. This morning we awoke to clear cold skies and virtually no wind. Foraker stood to the Southwest with a few stacked lenticular clouds and the normal sprawl of Alaskan tundra was replaced by a sea of clouds. Today was another scheduled rest day for our team and we spent it reviewing fixed line and running belay techniques which we'll utilize on the upper mountain. We also took a short stroll across the glacier to check out a feature known as "The Edge of the World". This is the point at which the glacial plateau at which 14 camp resides on abruptly drops 6,000-7,000 ft to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The team enjoyed the exposure and enormous views of Denali's "West Rib" and Mount Hunter. We also enjoyed our first sense of scale as we had a clear view down to our first camp at 7,800 ft and could finally get a sense of how far we've come. The weather stayed great for us today despite a forecasted low pressure system said to be moving through. Tomorrow we plan to tackle the fixed lines and move a cache of gear to just over 16,000 ft which puts us in great shape to wait for a weather window and ultimately our summit bid. All in all the team is doing fantastic, moral is high and folks are excited!
Best regards from Denali
RMI Guide Steve Gately
Sunday, June 10, 2018 - 9:04 PM PT
To Fresh Prince of Bel-Air:
Here is the story all about how
We’re stuck at 14 with so much pow
Just wait a little minute and sit right there And we’ll tell you all about these snow walls up in here.
These walls are high, they are not low
Like the saying goes, you reap what you sow.
The storm’s a brewin, it does not matter It just means we make these walls fatter.
Everyone’s spirits are high
Despite this Denali blizzard
Though we admit
We’d rather sip on some sizzer...d
Don’t you worry though
Because when this passes
We’ll be cruising up the pass the masses to the top I tell you loud and clear is our intent so don’t you fear.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Haha, nice rapping to make Will Smith jealous. It’s remarkable looking at you guys from the distance. I was thinking to myself:”This could be heaven or this could be hell. Welcome to the Hotel Denali. Such a lovely place.” Sweet dream, Lei, hanging there. Hao
Posted by: Hao on 6/11/2018 at 7:28 pm
To slim Jim and Paul what a dream your are experiencing let it soak in brother looking forward to seeing you both at the top.Keeping you all in my prayers Love Rob
June 19, 2017Denali remains unseasonably cold for June. This actually works in our favor for the lower camps. The cold days allow us to wake up a little later to move camps or cache before the sun comes out and bakes us.
We successfully completed our mission for the day, which was to go back to our last camp and retrieve some food and gear that we left cached there. We couldn't have asked for better travel conditions with perfect weather and a great path stomped through the deep snow. We completed our task with enough time for second breakfast and an afternoon nap. This mountaineering stuff is rough!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
* I meant to say: sending good vibes.. :)
Happy Sunday, guys.
God be with you!
Posted by: Luz on 7/26/2015 at 1:59 pm
How’s everything going up there? Sending god vibes and hopping to hear from you, guys.
Share your adventures :D..
Have a great Saturday.
Love you, Jesse.
Posted by: Luz on 7/25/2015 at 1:00 pm
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