Sunday June 14th 8:20 pm PT
Hello, this is RMI Guide, Eric Frank, calling in from Alaska. I'm at the Balcony Camp on the Upper West Rib, here at 16,900 feet. Our team climbed up here today from our 14,000-foot camp. We're doing great. It is about 7:20 PM, Alaska time. We have tents up and we are settling into dinner. It's beautiful evening out here. We can see several hundred miles from our vantage all throughout the Alaska Range and into the tundra to the north, so we're doing well. We anticipate great weather tomorrow.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
I am glad to see that our prayers cleared the weather for you. May God be with you all during your climb. I can not wait until I am able to climb this mountain sometime in the next couple of years or so.
Thanks
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 6/16/2015 at 8:16 am
Kim- it’s me again- just wanted to give you a heads up that dad has been waiting for you on the summit- so act totally surprised when you see him- he brought a stuffed colobus monkey with him so you won’t be able to miss him!
Xoxoxo
Lora
May 23, 2015 - 11:00 pm PT
In the real world the saying goes"the early bird gets the worm". This season on Denali, the early bird gets the weather window. Now I've never been a bird before so I'm not gonna judge on how good a worm must taste, but I have been here before and I can tell you that moving camp in clear weather is much tastier than moving in a storm. So, with a clear but windy morning we scarfed down a warm granola breakfast cached some unneeded gear and quickly broke camp. Our team is getting very proficient at this skill so we were rolling by 9:15. Nick led the team out and in 2.5 hours of sustained up hill travel had us all sitting at 11,200 feet. It wasn't long after we began building a fresh camp that the weather had enough of being nice and took a quick turn for the worst. It held out just long enough to get camp built and then really started snowing and blowing. The forecast is calling for up to a foot of snow by the end of tomorrow so we feel blessed to be in a good spot to wait things out. Everyone sends big hugs to those following the blog and little hugs to those who aren't.
From from Camp three.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff and team saying goodnight.
Our first rest day on McKinley. The sun was out all day today but there was a chilly breeze that kept us from over heating. The folks that have been stuck here for a few days are anxious to get moving and the Rangers broke trail to the top of Motorcycle Hill (a steep hill just above the 11,200 ft. camp). They turned back at the top, but a team of three from the Czech Republic pushed on ahead. That is s good sign for us to be able to carry loads to 14,000 tomorrow.
A day of rest, a lie in, coffee in bed, maybe a bagel, a nice long hot shower, a day at the spa for some, a day without kids, we all have our definition, our dream. A day of rest at 13,800 ft is a little different. Today is the day where you plan for the carry to Camp 1, gear is divided and camp essentials are split between us all. It’s first come first served - do I want a frying pan, a grill, 3 bottles of fuel, or 2000 bags of dried spaghetti bolognese? What will fit in my bag? One person who has it all sorted is Ben, he’s called in Rob to carry his bag.
The part of the body that doesn’t get a rest day is your brain - have I packed everything, have I included enough food, can I carry that monster a.k.a 100-liter rucksack, should I snag a porter? And this is supposed to be a vacation.
The wind at base camp was pretty raucous today - a couple of tents (not ours) were seen blowing across the camp being hastily pursued by wildly gesticulating would have been mountaineers.
All in all, a good restful (?) day, only interrupted by a vigorous stroll up to the start of the glacier at 14,500ft - a new high for a member of the team. However, the altitude is having an impact. Last night the team was playing cards, after about 1 hour of playing rummy Andy commented
“is this Rummy, I thought it was Euchre, it’s seem a lot like rummy”. It was time for bed.
Posted by: Julie Couturier on 1/19/2024 at 6:27 am
One more question for some of you, ‘should I have trained more?!’ But you are all experienced and will be awesome. What a marvelous experience. Ultreia!
Today we got busy getting ourselves ready for the big climb. Following another great breakfast our thoughts turned towards the mountain.
As members introduced themselves it became even more apparent what an interesting and diverse team we have. We all have special reasons why we climb, and why we chose Kilimanjaro. It was with rapt attention that we listened to the stories behind the individuals on the trip. Inspiration was had by all as we heard these tales of life changes that led to us being here.
It was apparent that everyone had come prepared for this challenge and taken it seriously. Even more important was the great attitude folks were bringing into the climb.
An in depth review of mountain life and our upcoming time at altitude preceded a thorough review of gear we'll be bringing with us.
All that hard work was rewarded with another great lunch (curry for me), and some R&R. Some stretched the legs around hotel grounds while most of us got in some quality pool time just as the sun asserted itself enough to bake our bodies for a few hours.
We're psyched and set and ready to meet the mountain staff tomorrow morning and get underway. Next time, we'll be dispatching from Machame Camp at almost 10,000'.
Good night from the Arumeru River Lodge,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
RMI Guide Chase Nelson led his Paradise Seminar team to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They have spent the last six days training on the mountain with beautiful weather. We look forward to seeing them back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
congratulations to you and your teammates!!! I can’t wait to hear all the details, wish you a safe decent and trip back home.
Posted by: Scott Robik on 7/15/2017 at 6:27 pm
Kevin both dad and I knew you would make the top, you usually accomplish everything you set out to do. We love you and look forward to you sharing your experience with us.
Love Mom and Dad
Awakening to blue skies we were ready to carry to 13,500', but, unfortunately, the winds picked up suddenly at the top of Motorcycle Hill and we were forced to bury our load there and retreat to the protection and comfort of camp. The weather taught us some valuable lessons about taking care of ourselves, lessons that will do us well later in the trip as we get higher on the mountain.
As I've mentioned before, we do have a pretty cool team. Perhaps I'll share a brief sketch of the individuals on this team.
I'll start with an incredibly impressive lady who's palmares in mountain climbing outshines most of our accomplishments. And her ability to handle the outrageous loads this climb demands rivals climbers half her age. Oh, she/we hope this summit will be her 50th.
Another member who shares 'senior' status with the aforementioned climber comes from Vermont and is no stranger to cold, harsh conditions. He hasn't been fazed by any of the weather challenges and has handled the climbing like a rock star! No surprise though - I've climbed with him before and reached the summit with his step daughter on this mountain a few years ago.
A climber very dear to my heart, and a favorite of us all, hails from England, and is here with me for the second time. Having not reached the summit the first time, he's back for more. Such a kind-hearted, nicer person you will never meet, and he's more comfortable with the mountain this time around. He is the type of person who makes you feel good to be around him.
We have a couple from Colorado who climbed with me last fall on Rainier. She is amazingly strong, and weighing in at half the weight of some of my climbers, she has still been able to do her part in load carrying and always manages to greet the day with a huge smile.Her other half has the strength of two men, and the energy that knows no bounds. Always helping out with camp chores, we have to sometimes rein him in so he doesn't make us guides look like slackers.
Another couple climbed with me two years ago, but could make this trip happen last year, so here they are. We've really needed to help her come out of her shell here (NOT). She's a dynamo, and I remember her strength two years ago. I think she's even stronger now, as evident in the guns she's sporting for quads. Her husband balances her outgoing nature so nicely, and it's fun watching them together. he has trained incredibly hard, unwilling to be outdone by his partner. In fact, when there is trail breaking to do, I put him right behind me in the hardest spot.
Our last member I remember meeting as I passed one of our Alaskan seminars that take place on the mountain. And now he's here, doing it. Sometimes a bit quieter than the others, he constantly impresses me with strength and ability. Apparently, he's sporting a battery of electronics, but the guy can definitely handle it. He works for Samsung, so I guess it just makes sense.
And then there are the guides:
On his first trip here, JT is rocking it! Always working and asking great questions, he's guiding like a seasoned pro. Great in difficult situations, he's been great company in the tent too.
On our second trip together, Christina has been nothing but exceptional. A joy to be around, she also knows the ins and outs of these climbs and I rely upon her for tying together all the details that makes the expedition run so well.
Then there's me. Just a simple guy that likes walking uphill and bore you with details of life here on the mountain. I'll try not to be so long winded next time.
Good night from 11,200'.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Been lots of fun following your trip, makes me want to get back there for sure. Sounds like you’ve got a great group and are climbing strong (of course!). Knee is doing well, taking my stitches out was an adventure and school is busy. Enjoy these rest days, an extra day to acclimatize is never bad although I’d imagine you’re also eager to keep moving. I know you’re good at taking care of yourself when the weather turns! Have lots of fun! And tell Brent I say hi!!
Love K
Posted by: Kristen Kelliher on 5/28/2017 at 7:47 am
I love your emails…..the longer the better….Look forward to and enjoy them everyday! Thanks for sharing!
Stay safe and a great big “miss you” to Lindsay and Steve!
Posted by: Sandra Friaglia on 5/28/2017 at 6:32 am
We finally got around to packing up camp and climbing up to 19,600 feet, our High Camp for the expedition. Extremely cold and calm morning with a new blanket of snow on the surrounding Andean peaks made for a scenic day.
High Camp is never anyone's favorite camp for a few reasons:
1. Sleeping at 19,600 feet can be difficult.
2. There are no 'great' tent sites due to how the wind swirls around.
3. Lack of snow makes drinking water a time consuming process.
Good thing we are making our summit bid tomorrow and will be back in Base Camp telling stories before to long.
Wish us luck! We will check in hopefully from the summit on Thursday afternoon.
RMI Guide Mike King
The sun has been shining on us all day, and the temperatures are pleasant, but something has changed: early this morning the tents gave a foretelling rattle, and then the wind settled in. While the wind hasn't been too strong yet, mostly it just makes a lot of noise, the forecast is hinting that the winds may strengthen tonight, and that they may persist for at least a week. We are hoping that they allow us to move up tomorrow, and that a forecasted lull may give us our shot. At this point, everything is ready for us and we are in Dr. Suess' proverbial waiting place, so we just have our fingers crossed for our summit window to show itself. Keep your fingers crossed for us,
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer, Juan, Alex, and team
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I am glad to see that our prayers cleared the weather for you. May God be with you all during your climb. I can not wait until I am able to climb this mountain sometime in the next couple of years or so.
Thanks
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 6/16/2015 at 8:16 am
Kim- it’s me again- just wanted to give you a heads up that dad has been waiting for you on the summit- so act totally surprised when you see him- he brought a stuffed colobus monkey with him so you won’t be able to miss him!
Xoxoxo
Lora
Posted by: Lora on 6/15/2015 at 11:37 am
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