Most Popular Entries
Hello again everyone.
We've spent the last two days relaxing in Chilcabamba and are finally ready for our next climb. The team packed up this morning and headed closer to
Cotopaxi. Our home for the next few hours is another nice hacienda call Tambopaxi, and sits just a short distance from the base of Cotopaxi and will be our launching point for tonight's climb. Our plan is to wake up around 10pm, have a quick breakfast and hopefully be out the door close to 11. Then we'll hop in our bus and drive to the base of the mountain where we'll begin our climb.
Based on how well this group did on
Cayambe, I'm guessing it will take us around seven hours to reach the summit if all goes well.
Keep your fingers crossed for us!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Our final night in St. Petersburg!
The team had a great last day here in
Russia, with a visit to several beautiful churches full of mosaics. We then visited the very famous Hermitage Museum, where we saw paintings and sculptures by many well-known artists including Picasso, Rembrandt, and even Da Vinci. We took a small break and wrapped up the day with a fantastic evening boat cruise to see this amazing city by water.
It's been a wonderful adventure here in Russia, but it's time to say our goodbyes and return to family and loved ones.
Thanks for following,
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Question #1:
Written by erstad17 on May 1, 2009
As a Nikon shooter myself, I'm proud to see the Nikon name at Everest. Is there a specific reason why you wouldn't go full frame? Do you carry a backup to the D300?
Answered by Jake Norton on May 11, 2009
Hi erstad17...good to hear from another Nikon shooter! As for the full frame issue, I'm not personally against full frame, but have not gone that direction for a couple of reasons. First, I personally do not see a huge benefit to full frame, it being a somewhat arbitrary size anyway; I find the DX format to take a little getting used to at first, but now quite familiar and good. But, more importantly, I use the D300 (and used the D200 previously, and the D100 before that) primarily because of size and weight. Both, of course, are major issues when shooting on Everest. The "prosumer" Nikon (digital) line has always treated me quite well, with exceptional performance in the extreme cold, with a great balance of weight and quality. I do have backup cameras with me - a D300, D200, and D100 in case I'm really in trouble - but do not carry them with me all the time. Again, finding the balance with weight, space, etc. Thanks for your questions, and keep shooting!
Question #2:
Written by Grizmtn on April 28, 2009
Thanks for all the great footage and comments. Allows folks like me in faraway Montana to get a glimpse at a fascinating other world through the eyes of experts. Question for Dave Hahn: Since you were involved in the search for evidence of the Mallory & Irvine expedition, and the finding of Mallory's body, do you think the north route has been scoured enough (hopefully not by treasure hunters) to have discovered Irvine and the sought after camera if they were there, or is the area complex and difficult enough that Irvine's remains may be hiding in some nook of the yellowband?
Answered by Dave Hahn on May 11, 2009
Hi Grizmtn. There probably is still more to be found high on the north side regarding the Mallory and Irvine mystery. Just as you say, the area is complex and difficult enough to keep plenty hidden, including Andrew Irvine's remains and whichever camera(s) he and George Mallory had with them on June 8, 1924. I trust you use the term "treasure hunters" as I do, with tongue-in-cheek when it comes to those exploring Everest's North Face. A dumber way to get rich has yet to be conceived. I still feel that Irvine's remains may be hidden on a ledge within the Yellow Band but I doubt I'll risk my life again to confirm that. That said, it is hard for me to imagine a better season for searching than this dry one. Jake Norton and I covered some good ground (rock) in our 2004 Yellow Band search, but due to snowdrifts, we can't categorically say that those same ledges didn't still hold clues to the mystery. Best Regards, DH
Question #3:
Written by GB on April 25, 2009
It's exciting following the climb through the dispatches and photos. Does the beauty of the mountains ever stop you in your tracks and make you want to look around in awe at your surroundings? How do you respond when climbing with a client or climbing partner? Safe climbing!
Answered by Seth Waterfall on May 11, 2009
Hello GB. Thanks for following our expedition. I can safely speak for the team when I say...heck yeah, the beauty of the mountains stops us in our tracks! Fortunately, this style of mountaineering allows for plenty of time to soak up the surroundings. But in fact it is very necessary to be aware of what's going on around you at all times when you're in the mountains, especially while guiding. I regularly encourage my clients to avoid just looking down and following my boot prints. One needs to be aware of everything going on around you and a good team member is always looking out for everyone.
Question #4:
Written by T-Dawg on April 25, 2009
Quick question: do the Sherpas get acclimatized well before the expedition teams arrive? Also, after watching the video about waste collection, and yeah, this is a little gross, when at ABC or when you all reach HC, what happens when "nature calls"? Do the Sherpas bring up latrine tents or do you bust out the shovel? I'm sure some inquiring minds are wondering.
Answered by Seth Waterfall on May 11, 2009
T-Dawg, the Sherpas on our team arrived about one to two weeks before us. That plus the fact that they, for the most part, live at a much higher altitude than us 'westerners,' gives them a head start on acclimatizing. That said, they are definitely predisposed to be more adaptable to altitude, but the mechanism there is poorly understood. There's no doubt, however, that these guys are tough as nails. Now to your question about 'number two.' In my experience, every popular mountain has its own rules regarding waste disposal. Here it is no different. The rules just change depending on where you are on the mountain. At base camp, the waste is removed and dealt with down the valley. Higher up on the mountain this is not practical, and the waste is deposited in a crevasse in the glacier.
Question #5:
Written by DrewEvansPhoto
What do you all do during downtime like this, besides heal and rest?
Answered by Seth Waterfall on May 11, 2009
Hi DEP. We all do different things to relieve the boredom of rest days. With the advent of video iPods, the game is totally different and movie watching is an indescribable pleasure. Of course, reading is great and we've got a little book exchange and tons of magazines. We also eat, play cards, fly our one kite, play Frisbee, and make fun of each other mercilessly. That's all in addition to helping maintain the camp and taking care of ourselves. It's just tons of fun at base camp.
At 7:15 AM this morning, the Four Day Climb led by Nikki Champion and Mike Haugen reached Columbia Crest, the highest point on Mount Rainier!
With clear skies and warm temperatures, the team crossed the crater in perfect conditions—an unforgettable moment on one of the most iconic peaks in the Pacific Northwest.
Huge congratulations to the climbers and guides for this incredible achievement!
Sunday, July 28, 2024 - 12:39 pm PT
At last the team is all together and ready to begin this extraordinary African adventure. As many people came in earlier they lost no time figuring out how to explore and learn more of this amazing country. Guided town walks were a big hit, as was a safari into our own nearby Arusha National Park.
Last night four of us were met by Emmanuel, the manager of Barking Zebra Tours, two of us enduring 24 hour straight push from Seattle.
Our last climber came in this afternoon, luggage in hand, so we're set for Day 1 of the trip.
Now, to catch up on some sleep and hope the jet lag keeps getting better.
Talk tomorrow!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
×
New Post Alerts:
Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari, July 27, 2024
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team trained all week to hone the mountaineering skills needed to qualify for a Denali, Aconcagua, and other big mountain expeditions. The team learned crevasse rescue, fixed line travel, route finding, and avalanche forecasting. Poor weather and high avalanche danger prevented the team from making a summit attempt via the Katuz Glacier, but the time spend training and learning the advanced mountain skills will benefit all team members on their next mountain adventure.
Congratulations Team!
Checking in from the Piedra Grande Hut on
Pico de Orizaba at an elevation of 13,900 feet. We’ve had a busy day driving from Puebla and prepping in Tlachichuca. After a delicious dinner of chicken tacos, we are ready to turn in for an early start to head up Orizaba tomorrow! Wish us luck!!
Mexico volcanoes expedition.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt
On The Map
We heard from our team members at high camp that the route has been fixed. They reported that that the route is a mixture of blue ice and snow. They have a fixed line all the way to the ridge. The ridge, however, is too dangerous to walk along due to poor snow quality. They are optimistic though that the team can make it onto the ridge and enjoy some beautiful views. We are all excited to get the chance to climb something. As for the rest of us today, we fixed our own rope in a gully outside of camp, that had some ice in it, to give the Nepali girls more practice before the real deal. They all did great, with one of them showing real potential in the mountains. Tomorrow we rest, to give our teammates that have been working so hard to put in a route, a well-deserved break. On Saturday the whole team will move up and try our hand.
All the best,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons June 16 - 21, 2018 led by
RMI Guides Andy Bond, Alan Davis, Bryce Foster and Jenny Konway reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Emmons Glacier route. Andy reported a beautiful day with low winds. They will return to Camp Schurman for a final night on the mountain.
Congratulations to the Emmons Seminar team!
The
Five Day Summit Climb June 7 - 11, 2018 made their summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning but were turned back at 11,200ft due to poor weather and route conditions.
RMI Guides Jenny Konway and Jordan Cargill reported several inches of new snow at Ingraham Flats. The teams returned safely to Camp Muir and will descend to Paradise later this morning.
.jpg)
I’m with you in spirit. Stay strong on the climb. best of luck, you guys and gals, you can do it.
Love you Sydney, take care of them Casey and Leon.
Daddy
Posted by: Roger Osmun on 12/17/2014 at 9:11 pm
Go Team!Thinking of you all as you make for the summit.
Doug - be safe and climb with grace.
Love, Belladonna
Posted by: Donna on 12/17/2014 at 5:58 pm
View All Comments