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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Wait at 14 Camp and Explore the Edge of the World

May 26, 2015 - 10:33 pm PT We woke early again today, hoping for good weather to move up to high camp. But it was not to be. A large lenticular cloud, indicating strong winds, had formed over the top of Denali, extending down beyond high camp. Winds were howling up high until a little afternoon today, when the cloud dissipated for a couple hours and then reformed in the afternoon. The winds were too strong for us to safely move camp to 17,200', so we rested again at 14,200'. We took advantage of clear skies on the lower mountain to take a walk out to the "Edge of the World", a point south of our camp that looks down sheer cliffs about 5,000' down the the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The views from the Edge are surreal, and the scale is nearly incomprehensible. We're psyched to see what the weather brings tomorrow, and we're ready to take advantage of good weather when it presents itself. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

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Glad to see you guys are doing well.  Hope to see these sites myself in the next couple of year or so.

Thanks

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 5/28/2015 at 8:15 am


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Wake to Beautiful Skies and Carry to Camp 1

Last night I was woken up at 2am by a flashing outside my tent. I thought to myself, "Who is taking photos right now!?" So I took advantage of being awake and got up to use the bathroom when I realized the flashing was actually coming from an enormous electrical storm nearly 50 miles east from basecamp. With a relatively large moon out, you could see the huge towering clouds stretching tens of thousands of feet into the air and the lightning was so intense and so massive that it was lighting up basecamp. How incredible! Never have I seen such a display of lightning! On a less exciting note the team woke up to PERFECT weather. Boring right? No, but I capitalize perfect because it truly was. Breathe less wind, blue skies and warm temps. Perfect for sticking your nose into higher altitude. Which is exactly what we did! The team made the first carry to Camp I (16,200ft) like they were walking out to retrieve the morning paper. Casually. Very impressive! We arrived at Camp I, took a short break, cached our gear and made our descent back to basecamp. I ran down ahead of the group and prepared some pitchers of juice, fresh fruit and sliced cucumber with olive oil, balsamic vinegar and salt for lunch. The team is now taking a well deserved siesta before dinner as we look forward to our last day in basecamp tomorrow. RMI Guide Steve Gately

On The Map

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Run Forest Run!  Kansas City is behind you Adrienne.

Posted by: Pat OBoyle on 1/12/2015 at 8:30 am

Congrats to you Green Bay Packers, JJ.  What a hoof biter of a game!!!

~ Horatio

Posted by: Horatio on 1/12/2015 at 6:58 am


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Rest Day at Plaza Argentina

Today was another rest day at Aconcagua Basecamp and we could not have picked a better day! The wind is howling, the sky is obsolete shrouded in clouds. But! And it's a big But! The team is doing great! We are sleeping, reading, eating quesadillas and simply enjoying being in the mountains. After all, isn't that what it's all about?!! RMI Guide JJ Justman
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Best of luck to the team, especially to Debbie!

Posted by: Barbara Schwarz on 12/22/2014 at 7:53 am

Let your mind have the dream it desires and let your body have the peace it deserves.

Posted by: Chris on 12/21/2014 at 10:17 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Summits!

RMI Guide JJ Justman and the Four Day Summit Climb team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier under cold and gusty conditions. The team began their descent shortly after 8:00 a.m. PDT. On their descent, the team will stop at Camp Muir to rest and repack before continuing their descent to Paradise. They will return to Ashford and Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations!
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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Descends to 11,000’ Camp

June 16, 2015 11:47 pm It was cold this morning at 17,000' Camp. I mean walking down the ridge in parkas and puffy pants cold. With light winds and a nip in the air we picked our way down the west buttress amongst throngs of other climbers seeking lower elevations. Once we started down the fixed lines the wind died and the solar began cooking us, we walked into 14,000' Camp wishing we had shorts. After a few hours relaxing at our old home we loaded up and continued on to 11 Camp for the night. We had a custom order fry up for dinner, trying to cook all the remaining cheese, meat, tortillas and other heavy items before hitting the sack. Our plan is to wake up in the middle of the night and walk to the airstrip. If all goes as planned we should be back in Talkeetna by mid day. Thanks for following along on our Upper West Rib expedition. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

On The Map

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Happy birthday, Kimmy!! Hope you had a great day making your way back down!  Your trip looks like it’s been absolutely incredible.  So proud of you and can’t wait to hear your voice again soon!!  xox

Posted by: Corey on 6/18/2015 at 1:18 pm

Hi Kim, GREAT!  WOW ..We are so excited for you & the amazing RMI team!!  Trish & I look forward to seeing you In ALASKA & telling you in person how proud we are of you & the entire team!!!  See you real soon!!  Travel safe & stay well!  Love,  Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 6/17/2015 at 8:53 am


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Set Up Camp at 14,200’

Friday, May 22nd 5:52 pm PDT The day dawned (that is, the sun rose since it's always some shade of dawn or dusk but never night) with blue skies and calm air in camp, so we hit the rally button, gobbled breakfast and set about breaking camp to head to 14,200 ft. As we climbed, clouds started to appear and stream over our heads and we knew that winds were building. Windy Corner lived up to its name, but it was really only unpleasant for a short while, with wind whipping snow and ice pellets into our face. As soon as we passed the Windy Corner, the winds died and the oven turned on. It's a long move to 14k Camp, and once we arrived the work wasn't over. We set about building walls, a new kitchen, and getting everything bomb proofed. Now we're settled into our new digs, happy, warm, and content. 14k Camp really is the cat's meow. Tomorrow we'll retrieve our cache, and it will be great to be fully settled. Until then, RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

On The Map

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Keep up the good work, Matt! Here’s a terrible pun for your trouble: ‘I have kleptomania, so when it gets really bad, I take something for it.’ Stay warm and safe, and enjoy the view!

Posted by: Scott on 5/24/2015 at 9:52 am

Jon and Team,
Congratulations on hiking up to 14,200 base camp!  In spite of the snow and ice pellets you all persevered and succeeded.  Thank you guides for your wisdom.
We continue to pray for your safety, cooperative weather and good health.
With caring thoughts to all,
Hugs,
Mom and Aunty Karen

 

Posted by: Kemai on 5/23/2015 at 10:52 pm


Aconcagua: Nugent & Team Carry to Camp 1

Howdy all... Checking in after a busy, busy day up here on Aconcagua. There was a bit of commotion buzzing around Plaza Argentina this morning with a bunch of helicopter flights coming in and out of basecamp requiring logistical assistance on our part that stalled us from getting out of the gate on our planned carry up to Camp 1. Luckily, what could have been a logistical nightmare was averted and despite the late start, our team made a great effort and put in a big cache of personal gear, food, fuel, and other group gear up at ~16,400' right in the heart of Camp 1. We're back down here at Plaza Argentina, tired after a long day on our first foray onto the upper mountain but psyched that the team performed so well despite the heavy loads. Spirits are high after a job well done and we hope to keep the good times rolling through another rest/acclimatization day at basecamp tomorrow. Signing off... RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Hey Glen, wow quite a bit of excitement!  Kudos to you and the team to for getting the carry up to Camp 1 in spite of all the commotion and the late start.  Love, Katalina

Posted by: Katalina on 1/19/2015 at 6:14 pm


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Spend First Night at Bascamp

It is supposed to be a day of rest here in base camp but let's be honest! How can you rest when the Green Bay Packers are playing and there isn't a television in sight! Go Green Bay!!! Our Aconcagua Team is rocking it! After our first night at base everyone woke up feeling great! We had a great breakfast of scrambled eggs and now we are down to business getting ready for our carry to Camp 1. The team says hello to family and friends. Pass the word around of our blog and keep wishing us luck. But with a team like this, who needs luck! Start sending in your comments, we'd love to hear from you! RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

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David,  Good Luck.  That’s a damn high mountain!!

Posted by: Lloyd on 1/11/2015 at 9:06 pm

G returned safely from Colorado this afternoon, and we had a nice visit with Irena.  It finally warmed up a bit this weekend, but it is snowing for the fourth time since you two left.  Should have given me lessons on using the snowblower.  Had a great dinner with the Dunnes, Sullivans and Josses last night.  Everyone missed you and had lots of questions about your trip.  Pat has been looking for you on the live feed from base camp, but so far no Jenny or David sightings.  Have a good day tomorrow.  Be safe! Love, Mom/Nan

Posted by: Nancy Hines on 1/11/2015 at 8:25 pm


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Send Holiday Wishes from Camp 1

Hey everyone. This is JJ with Team One Aconcagua. The team is up here at Camp One; we're doing great. We actually all wrote an elaborate email wishing family and friends Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, etc. But wouldn't you know it, we're having a little bit of technical difficulty sending that email so I'm calling in this dispatch instead. Everyone here sends their love to all their family and friends. We'll get this little glitch sorted out, and we'll send that email so all of you can read the words of of your loved ones here on Aconcagua. The team is doing great. We had a rest day today, but tomorrow it's back to business. We're gonna enjoy a great Christmas Eve dinner here at 15,500 feet. And then tomorrow we're going to head on up to Camp 2, which is at 18,000 feet. Everyone, like I said is doing wonderful and they all say hello. Happy Holidays and they send their love to all their family and friends. You guys take care. Stay tuned and hopefully will have some more exciting news for you in the days to come. Take care everyone, bye. RMI Guide JJ Justman


RMI Guide JJ Justman calls in from Aconcagua Camp One.

On The Map

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Merry Christmas JJ! Can’t wait to get down there, good luck, see you soon! Sue

Posted by: Sue Mamer on 12/25/2014 at 9:03 pm


Aconcagua: Cifelli & Team Enjoy Their Trek through the Vacas Valley

Life is a series of stories, so you might as well make them good ones. We’re only three days, but pretty sure this will be a good one. 

Fueled by last night’s asada feast and our bellies full of Malbec, and well rested after a night slept tentless under a show of stars unrivaled by any planetarium or AI manipulation, we set out this morning for 11 miles of the high desert’s finest. 

Led by the galloping gait of our fine Irishman, an unreasonably large number of doctors, the poet who engineered yesterday’s post, a reformed lawyer and our hockey-stick-wielding air force officer, we owned the trail like the parking lot scene in Reservoir Dogs. 

The Vacas valley treated us to long views of the mountains to come, galloping burrows, a lone guanaco and the Rio Vacas flowing with enough force to make us eager to walk upon the snow that must be powering it. 

That same river forced us into our first sketchy scramble and our first bit of exposure. Good to get the juices flowing.  

After finally rolling into our campsite - with another posh welcoming spread - Dominic choreographed a photoshoot in front of our first view of the great mountain we hope to summit. 

All in all, today we showed that although we are dirty,  and sweaty, and stinky … this group is STRONG and worthy of this mountain. 

We are not, however, without weakness. In the last few days our greatest fears have temporarily shifted from “how are we going to handle the extreme altitude?” to irrational anxiety about the elusive scorpions, the phlebotomist black flies and whether we lost our toothbrushes. 

Until tomorrow … onward!

Postscript: Best snack of the day - yellow bell pepper stuffed with leftover carne asada. 

Climber Chris Lind

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Seems like the start of a great joke: “a doctor, a lawyer, and a poet go into a bar.”  What’s not a joke is your team’s pace. You all are crushing it.  Keep up the great work!

Posted by: Ed DaPra on 1/17/2024 at 2:57 am

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