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Kahiltna Seminar: Halliday & Team Climb Radio Tower

May 25, 2022

Posted by: Alex Halliday, Ben Luedtke, Lauren Macklin

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: 7,300'

Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 6:36 pm PT

On Monday, we awoke to scattered clouds and cooler temps around Base Camp. As the sun rose above the clouds we left camp to refresh some of our climbing skills. After taking naps during the heat of the day we learned about knots for climbing and prepared for our attempt on Radio Tower.

The mountains are calm today. The clouds are fickle and we are now sitting back in camp surrounded by a fog that has moved up the Kahiltna Glacier. We reached the top of Radio Tower today, the small prominence that sits above camp. We were met with impressive views of the north side of Mt. Hunter and the Moonflower Buttress.

RMI Guide Alex Halliday

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Tim! It’s your grandma wishing you safe and happy travels! Love you.

Posted by: Susan Cote on 5/28/2022 at 10:31 am

Great to hear the update. Hopefully the weather will be perfect.

Posted by: Mary & Mike Macklin on 5/25/2022 at 5:42 pm

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Mt. Rainier: July 16th Summit!

July 16, 2012

Posted by: Kel Rossiter, Walter Hailes

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Kel Rossiter and Walter Hailes reached the Mt. Rainier summit this morning in cold temperatures and windy conditions. With a cloud layer settled in at Camp Muir, the team enjoyed clear skies on the summit. Congratulations to today's summiteers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks, Kell and the rest of the RMI guides, for getting my boy up and back safely.

Posted by: Bryn on 7/17/2012 at 8:07 am

Congratulations to Steve, Brad and your fellow climbers. I can’t wait to hear the details at our next TEC meeting.

Posted by: Nancy Johnshoy on 7/17/2012 at 7:08 am

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Ecuador Seminar: Knoff, Smith & Entire Team Summit Cotopaxi

February 17, 2022

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 19,348'

Hannah and I are thrilled to announce to bloglandia that every RMI team member, all 13 of us, summited Cotopaxi this morning around 6:15 am. I gotta say, this team is batting the perfect game. Every climber has successfully reached the top of all four mountains without as much as a few blisters. Granted I taped those blisters up this morning at 12:03 am and I was happy they weren’t mine, but it goes to show that stamina and toughness go a long way up here.

Potentially assisting in the team’s great success is the unbelievable weather. I was awe struck at how beautiful Cayambe was but surprised even more at the perfection of today’s weather and route conditions. Whoever cashed in their karma chips certainly deserves a Pilsner Grande for their investment. We simply could not be blessed with better luck. Adding to the beauty this evening was a near full moon which lit up the glacier so brightly we were able to climb without headlamps. Usually one element, wind, rain, snow, fog or cold is waiting for you at the top. Today all we had was an intense rotten egg smell from the still active lava tube belching sulfurous gas but other than that nada mucho.

After a spectacular climb and full blown photo shoot extravaganza, we descended quickly to the hut for homemade pancakes. Again, this is how mountain climbing should be? (When do we get cooks again at camp Muir?)

A brief packing session and 600 vertical foot hike down to the bus landed our exhausted carcasses into our assigned seats and off to the Hacienda for a needed shower and big dinner. I think the average calorie burn on peoples watches indicated between 7 and 9 thousand calories for the day so some papas fritas and lots of meat shouldn’t tighten the belt too much.

We hope this trend continues tomorrow as we head further south to attempt the grand finale of Chimborazo. This mountain is notorious for its difficulty so stay tuned.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

2022 is being wonderful! Keep it going! Congrats!

Posted by: Jane on 2/17/2022 at 7:02 pm

This is So Cool Adam , Hannah and Team!!! Enjoy dinner and live in this Awesome time you are all having!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 2/17/2022 at 3:21 pm

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Season Ends

May 30, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

RMI Guide Mark Tucker reported from Everest Base Camp that RMI Guide Melissa Arnot and her climbing partner Dave Morton have safely returned to Base Camp. Unfortunately, they were unable to summit Mt. Everest on this expedition but we are all glad that they are back safe and sound. The season on Mt. Everest is complete and the tent city at 17,575' which came alive in mid March with expedition members, trekkers, Sherpa and Base Camp staff is now bare of tents and people. Congratulations again to RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Linden Mallory on their successful summit climb. Thank you to Mark Tucker and all the staff at High Altitude Dreams for another safe and successful season on Mt. Everest.

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melissa, i’m so proud of you and am glad you are safe! i am honored to have had you guide me. safe travels my friend!

Posted by: amy oconnell on 6/3/2011 at 10:36 pm

Congrats Linden!

Posted by: Mark Hall on 6/3/2011 at 11:01 am

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Sara McGahan on Base Camp and the Glaciers

May 14, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Today is another gorgeous day here at Everest Base Camp. There isn't a cloud in the sky, and with a little breeze the usual heat of the day is masked. This morning, Dave, Linden, and I took a walk down the medial moraine - the strip of rock that runs down the middle of the Khumbu glacier, and arrived back to camp just in time for lunch. I hadn't been on the lower part of the Khumbu glacier since we started our rotations up the mountain, and although Dave pointed out to me at that time how the glacier would be different in about a month or so, I couldn't have imagined a more drastic change. The once frozen ice ponds are becoming lakes of glacier water, and rivers of melted ice are rushing down valley. Rocks are perched on ice pinnacles that haven't melted due to the shade the rock provides, and water runs down 10-15ft icicles that hang off the still frozen part of the glacier. Although I've climbed and hiked on multiple glaciers before, I've never lived on one for this long. Over the years I've heard so much about how quickly glaciers move and change, and have definitely seen slight changes while being on them, but have never seen with my own eyes how quickly they move and to what an extent they can change in just a months time. On a different note, down here in Base Camp teams are now hustling with preparations for summit bids. With the route now fixed up high people have been summiting everyday. Yesterday, Tshering and Uberaj both carried to the South Col to help prepare us for our summit bid. Tshering is now safely down at Base Camp and Uberaj stayed up higher on the mountain and is holding down the fort at Camp Two. Over the last few days I've been trying to rest as much as possible. I've made significant progress on my English and Science projects, but besides that and a few walks here and there, I've been sleeping, eating and drinking as much as I can. As Dave always tells me, "rest with a purpose," and I've been trying to get myself in as good shape as I can be to prepare myself forour own summit bid. Time is running short here at Base Camp. Virtually everyone will be gone from here in the next 3 weeks as we all try to fit our summit bids in before the monsoons hit in June. So, while we rest, it's weird to think that everyone here (about 350 people) will all move out shortly. Thanks for following along on our adventure! Sara

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

SAYYY!! sry this is a late response to this but im soo glad i read this cause its nice to read and hear about the journey from your perspective!!! Your almost there keep up the good work! Couldnt be more proud we miss you back here CRAZYYYY AMOUNTS!!!! love & hugs, <3 kmy

Posted by: katherine on 5/16/2011 at 6:55 pm

Sara, great update especially describing how the glaciers move and change. What an adventure! Love it that you’re eating, sleeping and drinking as much as you can! I spent the last few days with Billy, Katie, and Morgan and we are all so rooting for you. Be safe - sending much love. P. S. We did go to YogurtLand.

Posted by: Grandma on 5/15/2011 at 11:38 am

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Mt. Rainier: July 22nd 100% of the Team on Top!

July 22, 2022

Posted by: James Bealer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Climb of Mt. Rainier reached the 14,410' summit at 7:20 am today. James Bealer, RMI's lead guide for the climb reported a great day of climbing. The heavy marine layer that is sitting around 8,000' was no problem for the team. They climb in near perfect conditions, light winds, clear skies and warm temperatures, and everyone made it to the top!! The team started their descent from the summit at 8:27 am and are in route to Camp Muir.

Congratulations team!

Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Reach Summit with 100%

June 30, 2022

Posted by: Andy Bond, Grayson Swingle, Ben Luedtke

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310'

Wednesday, June 29, 2022 - 5:40 pm PT

RMI Guide Andy Bond and the entire Denali Expedition June 15th team reached the summit of Denali, North America's highest peak around 5:40 pm PT. Andy reported a beautiful day, light winds and a climbing time of 6 hours from High Camp to the summit. We are happy to report that along with all of the team members on the summit was the hula hoop complete with video proof.

As of 10 pm PT, the team had safely returned to High Camp for the evening.

Congratulations to the June 15th Denali Expedition!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Bravo à tous !!! Vous vous êtes surpassés!!!

Posted by: Delphine on 7/2/2022 at 12:30 pm

Hello and congratulations to the team and now a few french words for Yann : bravo à toi et à toute l’équipe, c’est super. A bientôt.
Hugues et Amaury

Posted by: Hugues PECQUEUX on 6/30/2022 at 10:54 am

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Everest BC Trek and Lobuche: Dale & Team Reach Pheriche

March 24, 2019

Posted by: Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche

Elevation: 13,950'

We are finally using some of our warmer layers as we pull in to 14,000' here in Pheriche. The day went super smoothly with the team feeling strong, eating well, and chatting along the trail. We made a morning tea stop in Pangboche to visit the oldest Monastery in the valley and see the yeti skull and hand. We can't wait to have a live yeti spotting hopefully high on the glaciers of Lobuche Peak. RMI Guide Christina Dale

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Crevasse Rescue and Ice Climbing Bonanza

May 31, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Jordan Cargill, JT Schmitt, Gloria Roe, Ross Morgan

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,000'

Today's mixed bag of weather didn't dampen anyone's enthusiasm to train in and around the crevasses near Camp Muir. If anything, we were all smug in the knowledge that we took advantage of fantastic weather when we could to summit and would deal with less than ideal weather for our training. Even the blisters and sore feet of the climb seemed to go away with our great night of sleep. I was impressed with how the group really learned the skills to effect a rescue of a partner from a crevasse, then jumped at the chance to get back in the hole to ice climb out. Most even got in seconds on the ice climbs. Our evening talk in the bunkhouse covered everything from altitude illness, mountain medicine, expedition life, Denali and Everest to things better left unmentioned here. I apologize in advance to all of you if your partners on this seminar come home with ambitions to climb more and bigger mountains in the future. Tomorrow, sadly, is our last day. However, a morning of training will be followed by excitement to get down off the mountain, have a beer and burger and get back to our loved ones and the comforts of home. It's been a great week and we hope to be able to climb together again sometime soon. Au revoir from Camp Muir. RMI Guide Brent Okita

Snowfall at ABC on Cho Oyu and the First Trip to Camp 1

September 18, 2010

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Cho Oyu

Elevation: 18,500 ft.

Hi everybody, this is Casey checking in from the Cho Oyu Expedition. Sorry about the lack of dispatch yesterday. We have been under constant snowfall since we arrived at Advanced Basecamp (ABC). We wore out all the batteries around camp. Finally today we got a little break and some sun for a few hours and were able to charge some things. Everything is back up and operational. Two days ago the team had a rest day here at ABC. We relaxed around camp and packed up a few things for the upper mountain. Started dividing up our loads and food that we will distribute at Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3. We also reviewed our oxygen masks, nozzles and regulators. Everyone got that pretty well dialed in. That was pretty much it for the day. Yesterday we got up early and went for a nice little hike. Managed to go all the way to Camp 1, just over 20,500'. Everybody did great. Took us almost six hours to get to Camp 1 and about three hours to descend back down. It was a good day- long and hard with snow falling sporadically all day. When we arrived back to ABC, we were welcomed by Kumar and some wonderful hot food for dinner. Today has been a lot like two days ago. It has been nice and relaxing on our rest day here as we prepare to move to Camp 1 for our first rotation sleeping over 20,000' tomorrow. The team has again been relaxing and enjoying the little bit of sunshine that we had for a while today. Laundry was done and a few bird baths were taken. All-in-all everybody seems like they are doing really well. The snow is back as I send this dispatch. It seems like every evening we are getting snowed on. Hopefully we are going to get a break here in the weather pretty soon and have some nice, warm and enjoyable temperatures. That's it for now. We'll check in again from here in another day or two.

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Most Popular Entries

Kahiltna Seminar: Halliday & Team Climb Radio Tower

Mt. Rainier: July 16th Summit!

Ecuador Seminar: Knoff, Smith & Entire Team Summit Cotopaxi

Mt. Everest Expedition: Season Ends

Mt. Everest Expedition: Sara McGahan on Base Camp and the Glaciers

Mt. Rainier: July 22nd 100% of the Team on Top!

Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Reach Summit with 100%

Everest BC Trek and Lobuche: Dale & Team Reach Pheriche

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Crevasse Rescue and Ice Climbing Bonanza

Snowfall at ABC on Cho Oyu and the First Trip to Camp 1

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