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June 16, 2016 - 4:16 P.M. PDT And we're off! RMI Denali Expedition #7 (known in some circles as "el Siete") landed on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier this morning around 10 o'clock to clear skies and breathtaking views of the Alaska Range. The team took advantage of the clear weather by leisurely setting up camp, and then brushing up on anchor building, crevasse rescue, and sled rigging skills. Our next move is to make some dinner and head to bed early in anticipation of our move to Ski Hill camp while the snow is at its most frozen state- is 3 A.M. early morning or late at night? We'll let you know... For now, excitement is high, stress is low, views are stunning. Love to all friends, family, and Joe Horiskey, RMI Guide Mike Haugen & gang

June 7, 2016 - 8:30 pm PT We got up this morning to blue skies and a promising forecast. The minute the Big Orange Ball (aka Bob number 2) shined on camp we were outta there, moving uphill. However, we were forced to heavily slow our roll as huge swirling snow plumes were blowing off the 16 ridge and the upper mountain was completely sheeted in wind blown snow. So we picnicked in one of the most beautiful spots in the world. The visibility was almost endless as we could see much of the range in sharp detail. We rested and snacked for over an hour before the winds started looking more and more friendly. Before we knew it, picnicking was over and as we were hopping onto the fixed lines. After the practice a few days before the team zipped to the top and met up with our buried stashes! Then it was on! Climbing the 16 ridge is absolutely breathtaking, and we earned it today. The stiff wind never really let up, but it did nothing to dampen spirits as we looked down 2,500 feet to 14K camp and beyond. Now that the ridge has been walked, and the tents pitched, the team looks to try and recover enough to make a stab at the summit in the morning! Let's just hope this wind blows itself out... RMI Guide Tyler Jones

May, 23, 2016 - 10:05 p.m. PDT Fully prepared for Denali Storm Daryl overnight, we were pleasantly surprised to enjoy a quiet night and an even more beautiful morning. While cold and calm here at 14 Camp this morning, the upper mountain continued to impress with strong winds and an impressive lenticular cloud covering the summit. Our sights turned from climbing and caching, to rest and rejuvenation. We said goodbye to our friends Mike Walter and crew as they began their long descent back to civilization, and headed out to the famous "Edge of the World," a must see for any climber lucky enough to call 14 camp home. The views were 'out of this world,' as always, looking out over the cloud-filled lower Kahiltna Glacier, 7,000' below. Quesadilla Supremes nourished our rested bodies this evening before the setting sun coaxed us back into the warmth of our tents. Tomorrow, our waiting game continues as we look toward a weather window that will allow us entrance to the upper slopes of the tallest mountain in North America. Goodnight from RMI Guides Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer, and Jess Matthews and team.

On The Map

Update: 5:00 pm PST - Brent and his team got to within 5 minutes of Basecamp on the second flight before having to turn around and fly back to Talkeetna. The weather was just not cooperating. As of 5:00 pm, the weather is improving and they are going to try it for the third time. Hopefully they will be in Basecamp in a few hours. We’ll keep you posted. Update: 1 pm PST Brent called, the team got about 20 minutes from the airstrip when a ground fog rolled in that prevented their landing at Basecamp. The plane is all packed with their gear ready to go, so right now they are back at the K2 Aviation Hanger having a great time celebrating Maile Wade’s birthday…Happy Birthday Maile!

At our first break, I walked over to Tom and said “how are you doing?” and he looked up at me from the only bit of shade we had seen in the last hour and said “good, this feels like home.” And that’s the best way to describe this whole day.

We’re finally on the trail - after all this time planning, all the big travel days and this morning’s final packing shenanigans. Even though the first few hours were hot, hot, hot there was a sense of ease.

Sometimes we walked in silence and I’d look back and see everyone just taking it in, sometimes we chatted about life and our jobs as we strolled along surrounded by vivid cliffs of rosy rock.

I’ve laughed more in the last few days than in the last few months combined as we’ve gotten to know each other. A few days ago we were all strangers and now we are a unified team ready to climb, ready to face the excitement and unknowns of the mountain.

After five hours of hiking, we arrived at our first camp, Pampa de las Lenas, just as some (welcomed) clouds rolled in. At dinner, we peppered Bill with questions about teeth (he’s a dentist) and he gleefully educated us. We decided maybe every night we’d just deep dive into someone else’s profession. There’s so much curiosity and so much life!

Off to bed we go for our first night of many in our little tent homes.

RMI Guides Jess Wedel, Jack Delaney and the Aconcagua climbing team

Hello again from Ecuador! The team woke up today to a tranquil setting at a beautiful mountain lodge, Chilcabamba Eco Lodge. A late breakfast was followed by walks around the local area, discovering an albino cow, and a few folks trying their hand at horseback riding. The team then had a nice discussion on packing for our next objective, Cotopaxi. This discussion led into an excellent pasta dinner. Another night of rest and we will be active again the in mountains. RMI Guide Chad Gaffigan

Wednesday, July 11, 2018 - 6:00PM PT Greetings! Our climb of 18,898’ Pisco Oeste has officially begun! We woke up in Huaraz this morning refreshed and ready to ‘tackle our day with an enthusiasm unknown to mankind.’ A beautiful 3-hour drive later, we were in the heart of the stunningly beautiful Quebrada Llanganuco, and made the short 2-hour hike to 15,200’ Pisco Base Camp. It didn’t take long to get camp built, and we even had time to check out the Refugio above camp on the hill. Naps and then a dinner of spiced chicken, rice, potatoes, and fresh pineapple hit the spot. We’re ready to keep this train rolling tomorrow with an anticipated move to 16,200’ moraine Camp. We’re hoping for good weather and continued good health! And as always, we’ll keep you up to date! RMI Guide Robby, RMI Guide Alan, William and Team

Last night was chilly once again, but today the sun is out in full and has warmed us up. It's a beautiful day on Denali today, with barely a breath of wind at 14,200' (there is some visible wind up higher on the West Buttress), and partly cloudy skies. We're taking a "rest" day today, although it will be somewhat active. After a leisurely breakfast that rolled into brunch, we headed out to the Edge of the World, a dramatic rock outcrop at the far eastern edge of Genet Basin that looks down to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, some 5,000' below. Next we will be reviewing and practicing fixed rope travel in preparation for moving above our camp. And finally, before dinner, we will work on building snow walls to protect our tents and our kitchen from strong winds. All in all, a good day of active rest. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we plan to establish a cache high on the West Buttress in order to have enough supplies available to us for our move to high camp. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter

Our five hour trek to the Shira Plateau and our beautiful camp here began steeply out of Machame Camp and was quite relentless for a good three or so hours. Along the way we learned some walking and breathing techniques that will be key to our success on this expedition. While I was busy coaching the team on these skills, one of our local guides, Peter, did a fantastic job with the pace and allowed us to move easily while still getting to camp at a reasonable hour. In this case, that would be at 1:30, just in time to sit down for the incredible lunch spread prepared by our chef Tosha. How does fried chicken, French fries and a refreshing salad, followed by watermelon sound, especially at 12,570'. Climbing Kilimanjaro is nothing if not over the top luxury, and I'll take every last bit of it. Our staff on the mountain, the guide, porters, cooks, waiters etc. allow the team to concentrate on the important matter of acclimatizing and just taking care of ourselves. We'll need that help to be able to climb this 19,000' behemoth in a week. Following lunch we've all gone into major relax mode, letting the altitude seep into our bodies and the calories just consumed reenergize us in preparation for a big day getting to Barranco Camp. And of course, we need to be rested for 'tea time' in a few minutes. Yeah, life is tough here in Tanzania, but the team is reaping the benefits of our support crew and everyone is doing really well. All for now from the Shira Plateau. RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

June 10, 2017 12:07 am PST It was a day of decisions. The team sadly broke apart today, with the main group heading down, and two strong and driven individuals opting to stay on the mountain to give 'er another try. Caught in the middle I was torn between sticking with the two and going for the summit, or sticking with the main part of the team. After anguishing over the decision, I chose to finish off the expedition with the team, rather than lead our two erstwhile members to the top. A sketchy forecast helped me in my decision, and I think my two climbers will have a better chance of summiting with the groups I left them with. They'll be joining Tyler and Jake's teams, who have a bit more time than I to wait for good weather. So here we are, in our tents at 11,200' camp waiting for the night to referee the glacier so we can travel over its frozen surface to minimize the risk of crevasse falls that have been occurring much more than normal lately. It's sad separating from our two teammates, and leaving the mountain without a summit under our belts. For me it's been twenty five trips since I've not summited. But folks are in good spirits. I think we all really appreciate the time we've spent here, the friendships developed, the hard times as well as the fun times. In two hours we awaken for one last day on the glacier. That is, as long as the air service can pick us up in the morning. With any luck, next time I chat with you I'll have had a shower, eaten a big ol' steak and perhaps consumed an adult beverage or two. Good night from 11,200'. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

On The Map