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Wednesday, June 6, 2018 - 4:52 PM PT
After a busy week of pushing up to
14,000' Camp, we took a much deserved first full rest day. The team had a rough nights sleep at our new altitude and learned how to manage the morning “snowstorm” in the tent that develops from the condensation our breath gives off and freezes on the inside of the tent walls. To sum it up, it’s not a pleasant way to wake up! Despite that, we got to sleep in and wait for the sun to hit our tents before we had a big breakfast with bagels, cream cheese and salmon!! The morning sun helped dry out our sleeping bags before some afternoon snow showers moved through. Tomorrow we might have a more active rest day filled with some training and a walk to the Edge of the World. All and all, the team is enjoying some rest and should sleep much better tonight as our bodies continue to acclimate to our new elevation.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Greetings from the Cotopaxi Refugio just shy of 16,000'! The team awoke this morning extremely well rested at Hacienda Guachala. "Slept like the dead" and "I fell asleep with my book in my hand" were common conversation points during breakfast. After getting our fill of fresh fruit for the day we loaded Viktor's trusty Hyundai bus and began our journey towards
Cotopaxi.
We took a pit stop at the San Luis Mall to stretch our legs, grab some snacks, and get our last taste of the thick air at 9,000'. Another hour and a half on the bus brought us to the gates of
Cotopaxi National Park. As always Viktor navigated the steep, rutted roads with ease and we soon found ourselves in the parking lot during the middle of an afternoon snow squall. As we quickly loaded our bags we enjoyed watching and listening to the joy of locals playing in the drifted snow of the parking lot. Snow rarely accumulates so low.
A 45-minute walk up switchbacks brought us to the newly remodeled Refugio. After stowing our gear and pleasantly noting the fleece sheets and pillow cases that each bed was made with we went outside for a short walk to check the route and see if we could catch some views with the lifting clouds. We were not disappointed and were treated to beautiful views of Cayambe and Antisana bathed in evening light and the mountain shadow of
Cotopaxi. Grinning from ear to ear the team returned to the Refugio for some R&R before dinner. Tomorrow will take us up to ~17,000' where we hope to get in some ice climbing and continue to sharpen our mountaineering skills. Thanks for tuning in!
RMI Guide Jordan Cargill
Tasidelek from Phakding! We flew to the famous Lukla airstrip this morning, and after uniting with our Sherpa guide and our porters, we had a quick breakfast and hit the trails. The majesty of the Himalayas quickly overwhelmed our senses, and despite the fact that low in the valley the crowds are somewhat sizeable before they disperse, we embraced what the cobbled trails started to offer out of the gates.
We're now about to have dinner and an early bed time to compensate for the early wake up today for the airplane ride. However, the slow pace of life in the Himalaya is setting in, and we love it.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Our final night in St. Petersburg!
The team had a great last day here in
Russia, with a visit to a beautiful church full of mosaics. We then visited the very famous Hermitage Museum, where we saw paintings and sculptures by many well-known artists including Rembrandt, Michelangelo and even Da Vinci.
We took a small break and wrapped up the day with a fantastic evening boat cruise to see this amazing city by water.
It's been a wonderful adventure here in
Russia, but it's time to say our goodbyes and return to family and loved ones.
Thanks for following.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Good evening. The weather has forced us to change plans a bit, and since we were under the rain the last couple days, as well as this morning, we decided to opt out of climbing Paria for acclimatization. We did instead an afternoon carry to
Artesonraju High Camp, as soon as we got a dry break, to start getting in position for our peak, getting the altitude needed while moving some equipment. We climbed to 5000m as the light mist started to anticipate yet another period of showers, and we arrived on time, but with our headlamps on, to our welcoming cook Emilio and his soup and beef stew with rice. Good evening and stay tuned!
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Today we awoke to blue skies above and beautiful
views of the mountain, but as we set off on our acclimatization ski tour, the clouds followed us. We spent the majority of the day in minimal visibility - the Elbrus ping pong ball. Strong solar radiation made for uncomfortably warm temps, which combined with the whiteout was a challenge to our motivation. But we persevered, and climbed to the top of Pastukhova Rocks at 15,500'.
We "skied by braille" back down the route to our camp and were greeted by Dasha our cook with delicious soup and fried chicken. A very successful acclimatization ski, despite the clouds...
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
On The Map
June 10, 2017 12:07 am PST
It was a day of decisions. The team sadly broke apart today, with the main group heading down, and two strong and driven individuals opting to stay on the mountain to give 'er another try. Caught in the middle I was torn between sticking with the two and going for the summit, or sticking with the main part of the team. After anguishing over the decision, I chose to finish off the expedition with the team, rather than lead our two erstwhile members to the top.
A sketchy forecast helped me in my decision, and I think my two climbers will have a better chance of summiting with the groups I left them with. They'll be joining Tyler and Jake's teams, who have a bit more time than I to wait for good weather.
So here we are, in our tents at
11,200' camp waiting for the night to referee the glacier so we can travel over its frozen surface to minimize the risk of crevasse falls that have been occurring much more than normal lately.
It's sad separating from our two teammates, and leaving the mountain without a summit under our belts. For me it's been twenty five trips since I've not summited. But folks are in good spirits.
I think we all really appreciate the time we've spent here, the friendships developed, the hard times as well as the fun times.
In two hours we awaken for one last day on the glacier. That is, as long as the air service can pick us up in the morning.
With any luck, next time I chat with you I'll have had a shower, eaten a big ol' steak and perhaps consumed an adult beverage or two.
Good night from 11,200'.
RMI Guides
Brent Okita,
Christina Dale and
JT Schmitt
On The Map
Jambo from Kilimanjaro
Today the team did a fantastic job climbing the intimidating looking
Barranco Wall. It is the technical hurdle of this expedition and everyone did great and almost everyone enjoyed the challenge, of course the porters made it look easy as the climbed the wall with their loads carefully balanced on their heads.
Once above the wall we took a well deserved break to enjoy the views of the valleys below, but unfortunately the upper mountain was obscured by clouds. The team climbed slow and steady as we made our way up and down a few ridges before finally arriving in the Karanga Valley where we'll camp for the night.
We also got to celebrate Rob Junell's 70th birthday here with him! And our gracious staff surprised him with a wonderful cake this evening.
Everyone is in good spirits and are looking forward to heading to our high camp tomorrow where we will start our summit bid from.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
On The Map
We are safely back at base camp after our entire team made the summit of our final peak of the trip, Pisco Oeste. Pisco was the third summit of the trip and the team is feeling accomplished with everyone making
summits on Ishinca and Urus as well. It was a great effort for the team and the camaraderie put forth to make it a successful trip for everyone was incredible.
While we're all smiles now, this morning was a different story. We woke to thick clouds and light snow falling on our 16,000' high camp. We shrugged it off and began our breakfast routine. By the time we were packed and ready to climb the snow had abated and the clouds showed signs if parting. An hour into the climb and we were staring at beautiful stars and moonlit mountain faces.
For a couple hours we had nothing but blue skies. Then as we neared the top, winds picked up and clouds began to build on the summit. We climbed on bundled up in puffy jackets. On top we were in and out of clouds, the weather parting for summit photos and glimpses of the famous peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo and Artesonraju.
It was an absolutely phenomenal climb and the way down was fast and smooth.
We're grateful for the help of our local guide William, our porters and our astonishing cook Helario, who makes masterpieces out of anything. It's been a great ride and I can't wait for my next opportunity to come back to the 'Blanca!
Cheers!
RMI Guide Zeb Blais
June 2, 2016 - 1:27 pm PT
The 2016
Upper West Rib team met today in Anchorage after months of preparation, training, and anticipation. With the team and all our gear in Alaska we took a shuttle up to Talkeetna, had a great group dinner at Twister Creek, went to bed. Tomorrow is our in town prep day and meeting with the NPS. Thanks everyone for following along as we begin our expedition.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
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Have a nice expedition!! Be safe.
Posted by: Louis-Philippe on 10/19/2017 at 7:03 am
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