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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Return to BaseCamp, fly to Talkeetna

Sunday, July 8, 2018 - 3:32 AM PT The team woke... slowly, at 11,000 this morning. Everybody remarked on the value of low altitude slumber. We ate and determined to get lower in honor of the former “tropical storm” headed our way. By this morning, we were the only team left on Denali. While it wouldn’t be quite “normal” to take on the lower Kahiltna Glacier in July during the afternoon, we decided that a try was in order. The inbound storm was a definite- and it was clear it would be snowing hard for days on end... incompatible with both climbing and flying. So we pulled down Camp at 11,000' by 11:45 AM and got moving with heavy packs and sleds. Conditions were just plain easy to the base of Ski Hill at 7,800'. And then -although we crossed a few spooky snow bridges, things were phenomenally well put together for July 7. We made fine progress to the base of Heartbreak Hill. And although our last 1.5 hours was uphill, it was free of dicey bridges and nervy crevasses. Base Camp was gone at this late date... we passed on to the traditional late season upper strip 20 minutes farther along, reaching it at 7:30 PM. K2 Aviation already had planes in the air for us as they were anxious to beat the storm for our extraction. As we crossed the range, we saw the weather moving in while our ski otters dodged cloud after cloud. We landed in Talkeetna at 9:15 PM and raced to dinner in our mountain clothing, trying to beat closing times in the conventional world. In town, we caught up with all of the neighboring teams from the past three weeks and shared escape stories. We’re all full of amazement and admiration for the mountain that we didn’t climb, but also great satisfaction for the climb that we did have together. Thanks for keeping track of us... until the next climb. RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 10:16 PM PT After the Hurricane Horiskey beatdown and yesterday’s big move we decided today was a great day to rest and let our bodies begin to acclimatize to the higher altitudes. So we slept until the sun hit our tents and then we enjoyed a hardy meal of breakfast quesos and talked strategy for our cache day tomorrow. Post breakfast we enjoyed an afternoon snooze (have to let the breakfast settle) and then did some organizational prep before rollin on into dinner and a celebration of Josh’s 48 birthday! He had a smile bigger than the solstice sun when we sung him Happy Birthday and presented him with a cheesecake and mini cake complete with a candle. After filling our bellies we dispersed to our tents and are enjoying the rest of solstice snuggled up waiting for our cache day tomorrow. All is well here with our Super Crew! Happy solstice everyone! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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Birthday cake at 11,000 ft - now that is the RMI difference!  I’m sure the team is happy to have a little rest but probably ready to be on the move again. Great job, Super Crew.

Posted by: Nancie Summerlin on 6/22/2018 at 10:03 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Reach the Crater

The Four Day Summit Climb May 30 - 2 June, 2018 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guide Steve Gately reported consistent 20 mph winds and cloudy conditions. The team will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
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Congrats team! What an amazing accomplishment!

Posted by: Staci Ikeler on 6/3/2018 at 6:45 pm

Awesome!  Wonderful!  Best news I’ve had in a long time.  Enjoy the descent and the memories of a life time experience together.  Thank you for the blog information.  It made my day for sure.

Posted by: Helen PicKell on 6/2/2018 at 1:16 pm


Aconcagua: King & Team Ready to Go

The Team is all assembled with bags in tow here in Mendoza. We broke the ice with a meeting that was followed by gear check and permit registration. Since we are here to attempt Aconcagua the team opted for dinner and an early night to get caught up on sleep from the two days travel instead of a night out on the town. Tomorrow we will head to Los Penitentes to pack for mules and the trek into base camp. We have a great group with a varied collection of personalities, experiences and mountains under their belts. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King
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Hello Jenny and team,

        Have a fun and safe trip. It looks very beautiful there.

          Love you much Mom

Posted by: melinda widmer on 1/23/2018 at 6:11 pm

Justin, have a great climb.  Are you over half way to the summit yet? Sounds as if the group is eating well!  Take care and stay safe!  Think of you every day,  Mom and Dad

Posted by: Vicki Hersh on 1/22/2018 at 6:14 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Team Reach Summit

The Four Day Summit Climb August 14 - 17, 2017 led by RMI Guides Casey Grom & JM Gorum reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 6:30 am today. The teams enjoyed a bit of time on the crater before starting their descent. They will return to Camp Muir for a short stop before continuing down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!
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I was a part of the group from NY and I only made it to the Disappointment Cleaver (DC). However I had a great time and learn a lot. JM & Casey were both great leaders and lots of fan to be with. Thank you both .

Keyhan

Posted by: keyhan arjomand on 11/30/2017 at 11:49 am

What a great team and awesome accomplishment! Congrats!

Posted by: Nancy on 8/17/2017 at 6:35 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Summit!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team led by RMI Guide Kel Rossiter climbed to the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Kautz route this morning. The team has spent the week on the mountain training in various alpine climbing techniques. They will continue their training tomorrow before descending to Paradise in the late afternoon. Congratulations to the Kautz team!
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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Complete Full Circumnavigation of the Mountain

And we made it! Nevado Ishinca greeted us this morning with more ice and steep terrain than any of the three guides remember. Intricate navigation on its summit pyramid required a good deal of attention to crevasses, moats and leaning seracs, but motivation and performance had us on top at 11am. We passed the only other team on the mountain before summiting, and the descent proved to be another adventure to ourselves; we decided to descend via a different route, completing a full circumnavigation of the mountain... not a piece of cake when the subject is an 18,100' prominence. We're headed to bed as we speak, and a well deserved rest day awaits tomorrow. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and Team -Spanish climbing word of the day; Rimaya (bergschrund)
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Denali: Walter & Team Complete First Back Carry

Monday, May 9, 2016 - 11:35 p.m. PDT Hello from 11,000' on Denali! Our team had a great day today, as we were able to travel back down glacier to retrieve our cache. Now we're back at 11,000' and after a fulfilling dinner of quesadillas we are all set to make another carry up around Windy Corner (13,600') tomorrow, weather permitting. The weather forecast looks good for the next few days, and we're psyched to take advantage of it. It will be nice to trade in our sleds and snowshoes for ice axes and crampons. The approach is over and the climb is beginning. RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

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Adelle,

Thinking of you and can’t wait to hear all the stories when you return!!!

Posted by: Dada Bredell on 5/11/2016 at 2:47 am

Hi Adelle!!
Hope you are well and keeping strong.
Thinking of you and cheering for you all the way.
Lots of love
Anelise
xxx

Posted by: Anelise on 5/11/2016 at 2:05 am


Denali: Walter & Team Opt for a Rest Day

Sunday, May 8, 2016 - 10:49 p.m. PDT Hey guys! Not much news to report today. We rose early and had breakfast with the intent of going back down the Kahiltna to retrieve our cache of supplies that we buried two days ago. But, winds and visibility on the Kahiltna, coupled with the fact that we could use a rest day, made us change our minds. Instead we got some much deserved rest at camp today. All in all it was a good day. Now we are eager and with rested legs to get our cache tomorrow so that we can continue working our way up this mountain. On another note, Happy Mother's Day! To all mothers, but especially to these great mothers: Jeanne, Lizard, Kelly, Mimi, Judy, Lynn, Kelly, Melanie, Daphne, Michele, Hao, Nancy Kay, Ann Irwin, Maureen, Toni, Nana, Mama, Maria, and Buffy. Goodnight and we'll check back in again tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

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Thanks for the Mothers Day wishes. Good luck with the weather and collecting your cache, I hope you can find it! Well done on the progress you have made so far dearest Rogan and the rest of the team. Wonderful photo posted on this blog. Lots of love, Mom xx

Posted by: Daphne Carew on 5/10/2016 at 2:01 pm

Hey congratulations on your climbing so far.  Keep up the good work and I look forward to climbing this mountain my self sometime in the future.

Posted by: Kevin on 5/10/2016 at 7:56 am


Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Celebrate at the Dik Dik Hotel

Congrats to this team! It was a fantastic climb of Kilimanjaro yesterday and everyone did great and it was wonderful to be on top with the whole team. It took us a little more than seven hours to reach the summit. The sky was full of stars and the weather was nice, although it was a little cold on that last stretch I have to admit. After spending about 20 minutes on top and getting plenty of summit photos, we made our way quickly back to camp where brunch was waiting and then descended all the way to our last camp. It was a long, but rewarding day for everyone. This morning we had a quick breakfast and got packed up one last time, then our wonderful staff gathered to bid us farewell and sang a few traditional Kilimanjaro songs. We are currently relaxing back at our lodge where everyone has enjoyed hot showers and a delicious celebration meal. It's time for a little sleep before we head out on a much deserved safari! RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
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