Due to high winds and snow the Mt.Rainier Summit Climb was unable to summit this morning. The team, led by RMI Guide Casey Grom, traveled to the Gap (10,600') on the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Their planned departure from Camp Muir is 10:00 a.m.
Tuesday, May 10, 2016 - 10:00 p.m. PDT
Our team had another productive day today, climbing up to 13,700 feet with a cache of supplies. It was great to be engaging some steeper terrain with crampons and ice axe. The constant 15 - 25 mile an hour wind (in our face as we ascended) increased the challenge.
With a six hour round trip, we were back in camp in time to re-hydrate and rest before dinner.
We are entertaining the notion of moving camp to 14,200 feet if we have good weather tomorrow. But, likely, we'll remain here at 11,000' as there is a high wind warning and near-blizzard conditions expected tonight and tomorrow. We'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
Summit day on Chimborazo. Not only were our bodies still recovering from the two previous big climbs of Cayambe and Antisana, we saved the trickiest and tallest climb for last. Towering over the surrounding landscape at 20,700ft, Chimborazo was our final objective. And boy, did it deliver!
Even in the best conditions, this peak isn't an easy target. But coupled with uncharacteristically dry season this year, this climb proved to be the most physically and mentally demanding of the trip.
We hiked up yesterday to our High Camp at around 17,500', made some dinner, and hit the sack. Our climb this morning began with our 11pm alarms waking us from our sleep. After tidying up camp, slamming some calories, and chugging some coffee, we pointed our tired feet uphill towards the summit.
The climb began with about an hour and a half of walking on trail, exposed ridges, and a couple of 5th class climbing moves. As the trail steepened, we cramponed up and prepared to hit the glacier.
Because of the dry spell Ecuador has been experiencing, the glacier was a challenging beast! Steep, firm, icy, exposed. Perfect footwork was required for the entire ascent, but our team delivered! From challenging cramponing to sections of pitched-out steep ice, this team persevered and tackled everything that crossed their paths. After a grueling 7.5 hours, we reached the Veintemilla summit at 20,561', 30 minutes later we had turned tail and began the descent.
The steep ice and exposure made the descent as difficult as the ascent, but the team kept their heads in the game and we made it safely back to high camp by 2pm. Our porters had already packed up camp for us, making it easy for us to continue on our final descent back to the bus.
The (thoroughly exhausted yet happy) team is now back at Estrella de Chimborazo, enjoying some much earned beverages, and reminiscing about these crazy last two weeks. It's hard to believe we're heading back to the big city tomorrow and flying home!
We will have one more update for you guys tomorrow, but we'll all be home to tell you more stories firsthand before you know it!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt and Adam Knoff
Good morning. This is RMI Guide Eric Frank calling from the top of Mount Shuksan. Our team climbed up this morning from the Fisher Chimneys route, had a beautiful day. Now we're just hanging out on top. We're going to be up here for 20 or 25 minutes, enjoy the view, get some photos, then we'll work our way back down. Hope everyone's doing well, take care.
RMI Guide Eric Frank calls from the summit of Mt. Shuksan in the North Cascades, WA.
Greetings from Huaraz!
The team finished the expedition yesterday, arriving safe and sound to the capital of the Ancash district of Peru, but also the capital of Andean climbing. Our descent to the trail head at Cashapampa, with the help of horses, was an extraordinary experience. We took our time to enjoyed for the last time the views of the massively snow fluted peaks and turquoise lakes down valley. Right on time for a shower and a celebratory dinner, the arrival at the hotel marked the end of our climbing adventure. We'll spend the day today relaxing in Huaraz and enjoying a Pachamanca, typical Peruvian meal cooked underground, with our local guide and outfitter's family, before packing for tomorrow's departure to Lima and flights back home.
Thanks to all for following and cheering for this team during our climb! We just say bye now until next year's expedition, wishing best of luck to Geoff's Schellens' team, who's currently starting the 2nd RMI Alpamayo climb this season.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
The Ecuador Volcanoes team continued their acclimatization journey yesterday, making an ascent of Ricco Pichincha just outside of Quito. For many of the climbers, this was a new altitude PR (15413’). Today, the team will start their drive toward Cayambe, stopping to do a moderate acclimatization hike around Laguna de Cuicocha before stopping at a hacienda for the evening. Folks are beginning to settle into the trip, getting into the flow of the expedition and enjoying the diverse culture Ecuador has to offer. Meanwhile, excitement grows as the start of the first major climb grows nearer and the team begins to feel more and more acclimatized.
Looking strong ! I’m sure you’re all crushing it under the leadership of Dustin and Mike. Shout out to Mo and Bill. You guys have worked hard for this and I know you’ll have a tremendous experience. Godspeed to the Ecuador team!
The Five Day Summit Climb August 22 - 26 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today, the final day of their program. RMI Guide Gloria Roe led the team to the summit. As of 8:40 AM PT they were starting their descent from the crater rim. We look forward to seeing the team at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon for their team celebration.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Greetings friends and family. Today marks the start of our great African adventure to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. It's with much excitement that the team has finally come together here in Tanzania at the beautiful Arumeru River Lodge.
Although some of the team braved long 20+ hour flights from home in getting here, others took advantage of being this far from home to enjoy time in Amsterdam, Monaco and Tuscany before arriving. A few folks just arrived early to the hotel and were able to relax by the pool after what can be an exhausting trans continental flight.
The wonderful staff at our hotel restaurant even stayed open late when the last of the crew didn't get here from the airport until 10:30 pm last night. We're off to a great start as we prepare for a full morning tomorrow. We'll review our itinerary and what we can expect on the mountain, and then do a thorough equipment check to make sure we have everything necessary to have a fantastic expedition as we scale the heights Kilimanjaro over the course of the next seven days.
Following a bustling morning we'll be treated to a relaxing afternoon before we get underway the following day. Mmm... a cold drink by the pool might just be the ticket to rid myself of the last of my jet lag.
We'll talk again soon,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Tuesday, July 3, 2018 - 9:52 PM PT
We could see forever this morning, and then it got better. The high clouds were gone, the low clouds were gone and the middle clouds were gone. We were up at six and walking by 8:45 in the cool shadow of the South Peak. By noon we’d topped out the fixed ropes and were starting up along the phenomenal crest of the West Buttress. We never got anything stronger than gentle breezes, despite our exposed position. There were a few big smiles as the gang came up past Washburn’s Thumb and began to flirt with 17,000 feet. We pulled into the 17,200 ft camp in mid afternoon, six hours after leaving our Camp at 14,000'. Building camp was hard in the rarefied air, but we got it done and sat down to a six PM dinner in our newest snow dining room. We talked about how a summit day might work tomorrow and how to prepare tonight. We will need to get a little bit lucky on the weather, and everybody will need a good night’s rest... but then if it all works out, we’ll be ready to take advantage. Light, high clouds have taken over the western sky, but the sun is still powering through at 8:45 PM and we can see rivers, tundra, mountains, glaciers and planet Earth for hundreds of miles.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Christina Dale reached 11,700' before having to turn due to unconsolidated snow conditions. The team is currently at Camp Muir and will be descending for Paradise soon.
Congratulations to today's team!
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Looks like you are doing well. Hope the wind and snow didn’t hinder the climb. Alls well here. Stay warm.
Love from all your family.
Lori.
Posted by: Lori pesta on 5/11/2016 at 1:39 pm
Great to hear everyone is doing well. Hoping the wind doesn’t effect your carries and you keep on schedule.
Stay safe, hydrate lots and eat plenty.
Good luck everyone especially the Saffers a long way from home, Adelle and Rogan.
Posted by: Mark on 5/11/2016 at 1:01 pm
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