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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Peru Seminar: Young & Team Practice Technical Skills and Hike to the Moraine

Hello from 14,200'! Life is good here in the Peruvian Andes. Acclimatization and technical training were the name of the game today. After a good night's rest, a pancake breakfast, and some warm morning sun, we dove right into knots and hitches; the foundation for some of the technical systems we'll learn later on. Chicken soup and beat+potato salad were a welcomed lunch break before a short hike to the top of the moraine at 15,200'. The views didn't disappoint. From our perch we could see all the real time glaciation on Tocllaraju, as well as our future route up Urus Este. We're back in camp awaiting what is surely to be an incredible dinner spread in our dining tent. Life is pure, simple, and beautiful here in Peru, and our entire team is feeling great. We'll update you tomorrow from the Ishinca Glacier during our on-snow training day. Until then, hasta luego! RMI Guide Robby Young and team
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Artesonraju: Elias & Team Make Summit Attempt

The RMI Artesonraju team made a summit attempt yesterday, reaching 5,600 meters. Technical difficulties kept them from continuing, but the team is giving it another try tonight. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Guys, you are determined!
Wishing you well on the next attempt -stay strong and be safe!

Posted by: Peter williamson on 7/5/2017 at 6:00 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Tucker & Team Nestled in at the Garabashi Hut

How was your 4th of July? We had a great light show last night. Lots and lots of lightning, raining hard all night but no issues. We stayed warm and dry in the wonderful lodge. Our day started off with another four-course breakfast. The best news of the day was the lost bag from Poland has arrived. With all our bags accounted for, a quick transfer to a different set of lift systems put us at the base of Elbrus. Three gondola lift sections had us here at our basecamp nestled at 12,500ft in some rustic but comfortable huts. A very nice local cook is taking great care of us and life is good. We did a couple hours of training and climbing after lunch, then more food, more resting, and our team meeting on mountain life and information about plans for tomorrow. Clouds in and out showed the Elbrus summit every so often; its a great life up here on the big hill. The team is doing great and we are having a blast. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Off the Mountain

RMI Guide Dave Hahn has checked in from Talkeetna. The team arrived at the Kahiltna airstrip early this morning and clear skies from Talkeetna allowed the K2 Aviation planes to pick up the crew and return them to Talkeenta. Dave will send a dispatch later today on the conclusion of their expedition. Congratulations to the Denali June 16th Expedition!
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Congrats are definitely in order. Now your loved ones can relax!  Mom of Matt Brennan

Posted by: Janet Brennan on 7/6/2017 at 8:53 am

Congrats to everyone on the team!! Proud of you Ruben!!!

Posted by: Christina Perez on 7/5/2017 at 2:59 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Descend to 8,000’

July 4, 2017 It was the calm and sunny morning we'd been hoping for at 14,000 ft today. Which certainly made it easier to get up and get sorted for going downhill. Independence Day at 14,000' Camp was so nice that we lingered in camp until just after noon. Then it was walking down, hauling sleds around Windy (but not actually windy) Corner, across the Polo Field, down Squirrel and Motorcycle hills and into 11,000 ft. We dug up our long lost cache there and shifted gears. We swapped out crampons for snowshoes and ice axes for ski poles and the got trudging down toward the Kahiltna Glacier. It was stunning to come around the corner and to have the entire glacier laid out below us. We dodged s few crevasses on ski hill and reached our old camp at 8,000' by 7:30. Just in time to throw up tents, enjoy a picnic dinner, watch nature's best fireworks show and to hit the hay for a few hours. We'll likely be up at 1 AM and walking by 3 in our quest for travel in cold conditions. We want the glacier well-frozen for the last bit to the airstrip. I read the blog comments to the team at breakfast this morning (we don't surf the web up here, the comments were cut and pasted into a simple text email to us) and the crew was very happy to hear from so many great friends and loved ones. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Matt-Congrats to you and your team for reaching the summit!  What a tremendous accomplishment!  You’re now in the home stretch.  Good luck getting down safely, and can’t wait to hear your stories.  The Schlesner’s

Posted by: Scott Schlesner on 7/5/2017 at 1:04 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Reaches Summit!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer led his Four Day Summit Climb July 2-5, 2017 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team had good route conditions and blue skies until a cloud cap engulfed the summit. The team began their descent from the crater rim around 7:30 am. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Team!
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Jim we all cannot wait to hear about your amazing climb!  To all of you who climbed so glad that all went well!!  Congratulations!

Posted by: Linda irvin on 7/6/2017 at 7:01 pm

My husband Luis, returned yesterday in 1 piece. After hearing all the stories, I couldn’t be more proud to be called his wife.
His physical strength, mental strength, spiritual strength & all the team effort is what helped him reach the top.
Congratulations to the team.
Thank you, Pete, Chad & Jessy for providing this experience, but I don’t think you see me anytime soon.
Elizabeth Carrasco

Posted by: Elizabeth Carrasco on 7/6/2017 at 9:38 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Summit Climb Enjoys Views from the Summit

The Five Day Summit Climb July 1 - 5, 2017 team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. RMI Guide Andy Bond said the route is in great shape. The team will spend some time at Camp Muir before descending to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Five Day Summit Climb Team!
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Greta job from the Guides and the team. All of us reached the summit.

Posted by: Sastry Dhara on 7/7/2017 at 10:51 am


Peru Seminar: Team Arrives at Base Camp in Ishinca Valley

July 4, 2017 Greetings all! Happy 4th of July from the Ishinca Valley at 14,000'! We had great weather for our walk up the Quebrada (Valley) this morning, with outstanding views of the snow and ice covered pyramid of Tocllaraju. And here we are, having built home for the week, ready to start training and climbing in the high peaks around us. And as we thought the day couldn't get any better, we were provided an incredible dinner of TROUT! Our cook, Coronel and Pablo really pulled off an incredible feat. What a treat for us! We're looking forward to an acclimatization day tomorrow. We'll spend some time training in the grass here at Base Camp, as well as go for a short hike to take in the views. Until then, happy 4th, and we'll keep you all in the loop. RMI Guides Robby, Steve, William and your ESS-Peru team
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I climbed Tocllaraju in 1965 from base camp in Ishinka Valley. Fabulous glacier climb. But in those days we were all sick from drinking bad water. Hope your water is better now!!

Berg Heil!

Posted by: Keith Gunnar on 7/5/2017 at 11:03 am

Are you guys climbing Tocllaraju?  It is one of the most beautiful mountains to climb.  I will
never forget it. Be safe.

Posted by: Ed Saenz on 7/4/2017 at 9:58 pm


Artesonraju: Team Ready for Summit Bid

Hello everyone. We are ready to launch. We enjoyed the rest at our high camp at 15,925' on Artesonraju, and we are almost ready for bed in anticipation of our early alpine start. We hope to call in from the summit tomorrow. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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All the best!!  Can’t wait to hear details of summit push!

Posted by: Tim Fader on 7/5/2017 at 5:29 am

Hope you are all rested,acclimated and the conditions are good for the summit bid early tomorrow! Be strong and take care up there! Fingers crossed and best wishes!

Posted by: Peter Williamson on 7/4/2017 at 3:03 pm


Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Brent Okita Sets Record with 520 Climbs

Today marks the 520th time that RMI Guide Brent Okita has reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. Brent now holds the record for the most successful summit climbs to the 14,410’ peak. The previous record holder was IMG co-owner and guide George Dunn. We are excited for Brent to be holding this record and we will be celebrating Brent and his amazing accomplishment!
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Quite an accomplishment Brent, congratulations - and many more summits.

Onward!

Posted by: -McIver on 7/7/2017 at 7:10 pm

Congrats Brent!  Thanks for getting me up there with you for your #519.

Posted by: Brad Snodgrass on 7/5/2017 at 8:22 am

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