Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Our time in the Alaska Range finished wrapped up just a couple of days ago. We had an extra 2 bonus days in the mountains. Our fly off date was set, but the weather determines our true fly off date. The snow began to fall the night before our scheduled departure date, it kept snowing for the following 2 days. Veteran climbers stated that this had been one of the biggest snowstorms, at Base Camp, that they could remember in the past
7 years. Over 3 ft of snow fell in a little more than a 36 hr period. We woke up on Saturday morning to crystal clear skies, soon the planes began to fill the skies. Everyone at base camp looking for a flight out spent the previous evening stomping out the run way for the planes. Still, when the planes landed it was obvious how deep the snow was for the planes. I think the pilots were getting faceshots, as the snow was hitting the windshields of the planes. We all arrived back in Talkeetna in the early afternoon, on Saturday.
The week consisted of lots of information being uploaded and downloaded to a very enthusiastic group of climbers. Us guides were very impressed with how much information this group of climbers soaked up. Topics covered a wide variety of mountain tactics, how to simply live comfortably in an environment that was cold and snowy, how to set up a camp, crevasse rescue, snow and ice anchors, climber responsibilities, avalanches and rescue, ice climbing and the list continues.
Everyone had a great time experiencing the Alaska range. Ideas have already been hatched for future trips to visit Little Switzerland, the Ruth Gorge or other objectives around the base camp area, from members of this group. Climbing around the Kahiltna base camp area offers a great experience for your first time to Alaska. Hopefully we will see you up here soon.
Everyone is on their way home now but memories will last a long time of this very special place.
Thanks again from Jason, Andres, Anne Gilbert and RMI
This is Dave Han calling from Everest Basecamp. And another nice day here yesterday and today it didn't snow. First time in about 10 days. A little bit drier weather playing through. Teams are starting to get into position now. It's looking like there's gonna be little bit of weather window. They are talking at first about the 17th and the 18th. A little bit calmer weather up above. It didn't look all that windy today. It wasn't quite summit weather. A little bit more of a break coming up that a number of teams are hoping to jump on and establish that route to the top. We are actually looking a few days beyond that and monitoring the weather forecast to see if we get lucky out past that. Today our team went on various hikes. Everybody's feeling strong, feeling healthy. Nice to be running around on the hills around here. This afternoon we had our Annual Invitational Horseshoe Tournament at the RMI Base Camp and it was well attended. Lots of fun for the afternoon. [Groan] And sadly the RMI teams didn't finish in the finals, didn't win but it was a great tournament. We are looking forward to next year. All for now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Basecamp
On The Map
Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'
This morning we awoke to our first views of the Alaska Range. After sitting out the storm in Talkeetna and flying on with clouds still in the area, we were pleasantly surprised with a beautiful sunny day. Our first big hill of the trip greeted us right out of camp, but even with this challenge we moved well up to camp at 9,500'. The Kahiltna Glacier is in great shape which made our travels nice and fluid. Base camp received 3 feet of snow while we sat in Talkeetna, but this just made for great navigating and smooth sailing for us. As we moved into the steeps of Ski Hill, there was a perfect trough to keep our sleds in line and upright. With our first challenges behind us, we rolled into camp around 5:00 and made a yummy birthday dinner for Carl...61 today!! Now, we're resting up for another big push tomorrow to 11,000' camp. Happy Mother's Day to all of our moms! Goodnight.
RMI Guides Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer & Maile Wade
On The Map
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
Hey all! Our previous two day's waiting game turned to hustle and bustle yesterday as the skies opened and allowed the planes to fly. Our flights left right after breakfast, and we landed at basecamp, resplendent with a new layer of snow. It's still early in the season, and basecamp was quiet, with just a handful of climbers waiting to fly off, or start their climb uphill.
After a couple hours spent packing, rigging sleds, and digging our cache, we were on our way, dropping down the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to begin our ascent up the main fork. The skies quickly closed and it began to snow, obscuring the views and dropping the temperature significantly. We made camp in light snow last night, but this AM woke to sun and clear skies! The plan is to make a move to our next camp at 9,600' today.
Happy birthday to team member Carl Devendorf, and everyone would like to wish their moms a Happy Mother's Day!
We'll be in touch soon.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the gang
On The Map
Mike M….Following your progress…...and rooting for you!! Wishing you clear skies, good weather and the most magnificant views!!
Posted by: Annette on 5/14/2012 at 11:55 am
Go Mike! Have a great climb. I saw the mountain this morning in the sun on my way to work. Looks awesome. Stay safe.
Posted by: Jeff on 5/14/2012 at 10:06 am
Way to go Team!
Last night we had a team of five Sherpa depart from Camp 2 at 11: 30 pm en route to the South Col. They reached the South Col in just under eight hours. A few of them were also able to make a carry to Camp 3. They encountered some high winds and did an amazing job, getting most of the oxygen bottles, tents and supporting equipment to Camp 2 for the first time this season. And here they are back at Base Camp already. These guys are tough!
The rest of the team did some local hiking to keep up the fitness. Teams continue to work on the upper mountain but have not placed any new rope above the Col as of yet. The route fixing group has decided to wait a few days based on forecasts of strong winds in the near future.
RMI Guide and Everest Base Camp Manager Mark Tucker
After a great training seminar in the Alaska Range and a few days waiting out the weather at Base Camp, RMI Guide Jason Thompson and team have returned to Talkeetna.
The team awoke to clear skies and anxiously awaited the sound of aircraft over head. They weren't disappointed. Everyone is back in Talkeetna looking forward to warm showers and a meal they don't have to make themselves. They will be transferring to Anchorage later this afternoon.
Congratulations on a safe and successful week!
Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 358'
The May 8th Mt. McKinley Expedition led by RMI Guides Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer and Maile Wade is now en route to Base Camp. The weather in Talkeetna was clear this morning and the team headed for the K2 Aviation hanger.
Good luck on your expedition!
Stay safe and make every day epic!
Posted by: Erik on 5/16/2012 at 7:07 pm
Go team! Climb safe, climb strong!
Posted by: Drew Tulumello on 5/12/2012 at 9:27 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 358'
We spent the day waiting for our weather window to fly on to the glacier, but two feet of snow at Base Camp last night and continuing snow through today have so far prevented us from making it on. Rather than idly twiddling our thumbs, we decided to make the best of a warm dry hanger and practice our crevasse rescue skills and self rescue systems. Everyone is feeling better about their systems after a lot of practice and playing with knots and tricks. We still have one and a half hours to go before the planes are grounded for the night, increasingly it is looking like tomorrow morning is more likely for flying. Hopefully our next post will come from there glacier!
Best,
RMI Guide Peter Van Deventer
Unfortunately the weather did not cooperate with us today, and we were unable to fly in to Base Camp once again. While it seems as though the weather is improving, the conditions were not conducive to flying; no planes left Talkeetna today with the intention of trying to land at Base Camp. We took advantage of the down time today and did some dry-land review of crevasse rescue. There were also some pretty competitive games of ping pong going on this afternoon in the Hangar as we waited on standby for the weather to clear. We’re all eager to fly, but we understand that climbing Denali requires patience. Hopefully we get a break tomorrow and can fly in to Base Camp and establish ourselves on the mountain. In the meantime, we’re enjoying Talkeetna.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Well the snow continues to pile up. Our storm board is reading 68 cm of snow in the past 36-hour period. The wind has been picking up, intensifying the storm. Turns out, this storm is a little bigger then they first thought.
We spent three hours this morning digging out our tents and the cook tent. We're all staying busy here on the glacier, experiencing the other part of Alaska, the weather.
Well not too much else to report, hopefully we'll be off the glacier sooner then later.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
48 card deck! hilarious. i thought that only happened at my house. i can’t believe you are STHUCK! (christmas story) Brandi, am i seriously going to have to drink wine by myself in Anchorage tomorrow?!?!? stay warm. see you soon. i need to get back to packing… elizabeth
Posted by: elizabeth on 5/11/2012 at 10:38 pm
Good luck on the climb. Have fun walking up and down the runway at base camp. Been there and done that.
Posted by: Stephani on 5/11/2012 at 5:41 pm
Hey Dave Hahn calling from Mount Everest. We're at Base Camp. Our Sherpa team, Lam Babu and the guys are rested at Camp 2 today. They hope that they are going to put in a carry of gear and supplies up the South Col tomorrow. Early tomorrow they will try to reach 8,000 meters. The climbing team, we're still taking it easy at Base Camp trying to keep our activity level up hiking, and visiting with friends and playing games. The weather forecast is still for a little bit higher winds to come in the next couple of days. There is not any effort at the moment between the climbing teams, the various climbing teams around us, to prioritize between going to the summit. That will come after those winds spike up and then we hope those higher winds leave the mountain and give us some better conditions. So it will probably all going to be happening after the middle of the month. A little bit of waiting time at Base Camp but not bad for us. Bye for now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp
Team, We wish you GREAT LUCK on McKinley. Be safe. Sara and Bill McGahan
Posted by: Bil McGahan on 5/17/2012 at 3:40 pm
happy birthday carl & best wishes for great weather.
summit on!
Posted by: lars on 5/14/2012 at 6:37 pm
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