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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt Rainier: May 15th Summit!

Our Five Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and JJ Justman reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team reported fair weather with winds of about 15mph and a cap on the top of the mountain. The teams spent some time on the summit and are now on their way back to Camp Muir. Congratulations Brent, JJ, and teams on the first summit of our 2013 Mt. Rainer climbing season!
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Thanks again to JJ and Brent as well as all the other guides for a great climb! So glad to be a member of the first summit team of the season! You guys are truly amazing and I had a wonderful experience with RMI!

Posted by: Chad Burgert on 5/16/2013 at 8:42 pm

A. Summer - Getting high, elevation-wise that is

Posted by: Mark Addams on 5/16/2013 at 7:23 am


Mt. Everest: Team Hikes to Kalapathar

It didn't appear to be a great day for going to the top of Mount Everest, but it was a perfect day for the top of Kalapathar. Dan and Seth and I went back down-valley to Gorak Shep and then hung a right to do the classic hike. Everest still had a jetstream plume of cloud and snow blowing from her upper reaches. But about 10,000 feet lower down we enjoyed sunny and calm spring weather. It was good to be out of base for a bit and away from the all consuming obsession with weather forecasts and picking summit days. We'll get worked up about it all, soon enough. For now it is still a matter of getting the team healthy and strong. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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You all are looking good and healthy.  Stay healthy and strong for your summit.  Looking forward to reading about it.  Blessings for a safe summit. 

AQ Uptown#985 NM/AZ/CO

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/15/2013 at 10:17 am

Love the beard buddy. Looks like your having the time of your life. Good luck everyone at work and myself are rooting for you. Be Safe! Look forward to your return and your stories.
Larry

Posted by: Larry Price on 5/15/2013 at 7:49 am


Mt. Rainier: 2013 Climbing Season is Underway!

Well, yesterday the first climb of the season had to grit its teeth in high winds and low visibility. Low and behold, the team did great making it up to Camp Muir at 10,000 feet. Today the teams woke up to gorgeous weather and a view stretching well into Oregon. We will rest, relax and go for a little walk uphill to do some photo taking. The plan then will be to get ready for our summit tomorrow. RMI Guides JJ Justman & Brent Okita
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Congratulations Chad on your summit. I am so proud of you. Continue to follow your dreams. Thanks to the whole team for such a great adventure.

Posted by: Warren Burgert on 5/17/2013 at 12:15 pm

Jeff, Scott, Laura, and Craig. Bravo! on your great adventure. Mom and I are in England tracking and admiring your achievement.  Best wishes and God’s speed and safekeeping as you march to summit!!

Love,
Mom and Dad

Posted by: George and Lucy Galllimore on 5/14/2013 at 2:03 pm


Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Prepare for Takeoff

Yesterday we all met at the Anchorage Airport, drove to Wasilla and bought some food before reaching our final destination of the day, Talkeetna. Once we arrived and settled in, the group had the opportunity to check out Talkeetna and enjoy their great food. Today we have a super busy day ahead of us. Breakfast, check in with the National Park Service, pack our gear, and if weather permits, fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier and set up camp. Sounds simple but believe me it is a lot! We are all very excited for the flight to the glacier. In my opinion, it is one of the many highlights of climbing in the Alaska Range. We will be checking in later on. All best, RMI Guide Andres Marin and the Alaska Expedition Seminar

On The Map

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Have fun, be safe and come back in one piece Tyson! Love you :)

Posted by: Katherine on 5/15/2013 at 9:21 am

Be safe and enjoy the adventure! Hope the weather breaks a bit - Dan, springtime has finally arrived as we are enjoying some beautiful sunny 80 degree days here in Chicago! Be strong be healthy climbers - onwards and upwards! Love you Dan xoxo

Posted by: Kirsten Weber on 5/15/2013 at 8:27 am


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Acclimate at 11,000’

Hello again from the 11k camp on Denali! We decided to take another day to rest and acclimate to the altitude. We spent most of the day lounging around, reading, listening music, napping, and telling lies, all the while getting stronger for our forays up higher. The weather was cloudy, cooler, and windier today, and a trace of snow fell overnight. But as I lie in my sleeping bag typing this dispatch, a cloudless sky sits above us. We're hoping for good weather tomorrow so we can carry supplies up to around 13,600'. We'll stay in touch. RMI Guide Mike Walter & team
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Mike,  what did the blonde say when the guide blew in her ear?  Thanks for the refill.  Good Luck   John and Steve

Posted by: john riester on 5/14/2013 at 5:10 pm


Mt. Everest: Team Waiting for Weather & Playing Horseshoes

We took advantage of a beautiful morning for a day of tough competition around the horseshoe pit. After some close games, lots of fun and prizes for all, we awarded our winners. Congratulations to Dave & Pranav - our 2013 RMI Expeditions Horseshoe Tournament Winners! We also played an inter camp Sherpa Tourney which was won by Jeta. Thanks to all the participants for a fun day of friendly competition. There were a few more teams that reached the summit of Mt. Everest today. The weather is still a bit unpredictable but a few strong and smart teams have reached the top. There are many teams leaving from Base Camp today and heading to higher camps. This will put them in position for their summit bids later this week. We are sitting tight at Base Camp for a bit longer as the weather forecasts are showing some heavy snow arriving soon. We are continuing to watch the weather patterns and predictions and will move up hill when the timing looks good for us. As the afternoon clouds rolled in the snow began to fall at Base Camp. We will keep you posted. Cheers, RMI Guide & Everest Base Camp Manager Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Here’s what Jeff Masters is saying about Mahasen: http://www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters/comment.html?entrynum=2404
He’s the guy that was ranting about evacuating New Orleans 4 days before Katrina hit.  He knows hurricanes.

Posted by: Ann on 5/13/2013 at 1:05 pm


Mt. Everest: Teams Watch the Weather

Well, the summit buzz is starting here at Everest Base Camp. A few teams had planned on heading up this morning but a pulse of snow in the early morning hours shut most of them down. Everyone has been milling about camp trying to piece together what the other teams are doing. It's all pretty exciting. The main focus for everyone is on the weather forecast. There is a tropical cyclone in the Bay of Bengal and that could mean a lot of snow if it comes our way. Everyone is hoping that it dissipates over the next several days of course. As for us we're not rushing up the mountain just yet. We're still healing up a bit and being in the first big wave if summiteers was never in our plan. Better for us to hang back a few days, wait for a solid forecast and hopefully get the summit without a big crowd. So its at least a few more days of Base Camp life for us. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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Hey guys you all look pumped! We are extremely proud of your achievement’s thus far! Stay strong for your summit and we look forward to your safe arrival home. Dan you really are a “Mountain Man”. :-)

Posted by: Ann, Jerry & Michelle on 5/15/2013 at 3:54 pm

Hey Dan, nice beard.  Brenda & I hope your feeling strong.  Sounds like your getting close.  All the luck brah.  Paul and I are going to open your pool on Saturday so when you get home you can fall right in.

Posted by: Rick Sanderson on 5/14/2013 at 5:18 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Reach 11’ Camp

We've been enjoying good weather on the Kahiltna Glacier, and today was no different. After a trace of new snow overnight, we awoke to partly sunny skies. A breakfast of smoked salmon with bagels and cream cheese started off our day. After breakfast, we packed up camp and began the climb up towards Kahiltna Pass, en route to the 11k camp. We're taking advantage of the good weather and making good progress so far. Tomorrow we'll sleep in and take a rest day and prepare a cache of supplies to carry up around Windy Corner. We'll keep you posted on our next move. Until then, we'll be resting...we've earned it. Mike & team

On The Map

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Happy helmet-wearing! Glad the weather’s cooperating. I think 42 down is “summit”.  xoxo, K2

Posted by: K2 Weller on 5/13/2013 at 7:09 pm

Mike…Best wishes for a great climb…Thx for all your support at Rainier last Sept…I return in four weeks - Summit this time hopefully !...Maybe see you…Godspeed…Walter…Hello to Kara if that’s who I saw in pic.

Posted by: walter glover on 5/13/2013 at 5:01 am


Mt. Everest: Resting, Playing Games and Watching the Weather

Another quiet but interesting day at Basecamp. Everything seems a little different now with the news that climbers made the top yesterday... And indeed, a few more went there today if the radio grapevine is correct. The mountain is not impossible. But we do hope those most recent summit climbers got down fast, since by late afternoon we've experienced a thunderstorm and a few inches of quick new snow. And that roar is back... The one that sounds like Niagara Falls as a ribbon of the jet stream does battle with the parts of these mountains that dare to stand out and in the way. We are all watching weather and weather forecasts now and there is plenty of interest in the calendar. Many climbers are still down-valley taking a vacation, but they are starting to trickle back by helicopter and by foot with summit dates in mind. Some are packing bags and heading up in the next day or two. We are biding our time. Waiting out the cough. Hiking and exploring and playing games in camp. We'll have to pick summit departure days soon enough, but for now it just isn't right for our team. We get a little anxious to know that the route is open, but we also know that it wouldn't be a bad thing to let a few hundred other climbers have their way with it first. Things get a little warmer with each passing day in May and we hold out hope that calmer days materialize. And we cross our fingers that cyclone O1B -spinning menacingly down in the Bay of Bengal- fizzles out and finds a place to go that doesn't interfere with climbers... or with humanity in general. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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I love keeping updated on the climb.  Keep up the great work boys.

Posted by: Tyler on 5/13/2013 at 4:28 am

We are all “climbing Everest with you,” vicariously of course.  But none-the-less,truly enjoying your posts and certainly rooting for your success and safety.  Meteorology and your knowledge in that area will keep you safe as well as successful. You are now in the time frame of saying “yes” or “no” and we all know how difficult that can be. Bill Bussey

Posted by: Bill Bussey on 5/12/2013 at 5:23 am


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Arrive on the Mountain and Travel to Camp 2

Greetings from the Kahiltna Glacier. We had a great day yesterday, as we flew into Kahiltna Basecamp in the morning, prepped our gear, and started climbing. The weather was beautiful and the snow conditions were perfect for efficient travel. We took all of our gear to our first camp, at the confluence of the Kahiltna Glacier and the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, at the base of Ski Hill. We started this morning with bagels & cream cheese, with bacon, before we packed up and started climbing. Leaving camp, Ski Hill provided the first (of many) up hills of our journey. We climbed once again with great weather and snow conditions, hauling our heavy expedition loads on sleds and in our backpacks. With tired legs, sore shoulders, and tender hips, we arrived at our Camp 2, 9,400' on the Kahiltna Glacier. A hearty dinner of Indian food filled our stomachs, along with plenty of hot drinks to rehydrate. We're in our tents now, looking forward to a restful night's sleep. It's snowing lightly, with no wind. We're hoping for good weather tomorrow, and moving up to Camp 3, at 11,200'. We'll be in touch again soon with an update. RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

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