Entries from Expedition Dispatches
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Casey Grom and his entire team reached to summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Casey reported that the route and the weather are about as good as it gets. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir!
Congratulations to today's team and 100% on top!
Good evening. The weather has forced us to change plans a bit, and since we were under the rain the last couple days, as well as this morning, we decided to opt out of climbing Paria for acclimatization. We did instead an afternoon carry to
Artesonraju High Camp, as soon as we got a dry break, to start getting in position for our peak, getting the altitude needed while moving some equipment. We climbed to 5000m as the light mist started to anticipate yet another period of showers, and we arrived on time, but with our headlamps on, to our welcoming cook Emilio and his soup and beef stew with rice. Good evening and stay tuned!
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos and team
July 1, 2017 12:51 a.m. PST
We awoke to wind and snow this morning at our
17,000 ft camp. This did not phase our crew after our successful summit day yesterday. All we wanted to do is head down to warmer, thicker air. We made it all the way down to our old 11,000 ft camp, where we decided to set up tents and nap a bit. This puts us within striking distance of the airstrip at basecamp. We will have to get on the trail around 3:00 or 4:00 to make sure that the lower glacier is still frozen while we make our way to basecamp. We want those crevasse bridges as strong as possible! Wish us good flying weather for tomorrow!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
July 1, 2017 12:18 a.m. PST
This time we did it. But it wasn't easy by any means. As usual, there was murk and cloud around at 5 AM, but we could see the
West Buttress and we couldn't see signs of big wind blowing. We packed up and ate a last low altitude breakfast. The team was climbing by 7:45 in light snow. We didn't have the perfectly packed trail this time and in the poor light of the mild shadowy whiteout, it sometimes felt as if we were climbing by Braille. At the top of the fixed lines, the crest of the Buttress wasn't universally friendly. When the sun prevailed, we were too hot and when the wind and cloud ruled, it could be kind of raw and mean. What was definitely friendly was crossing paths with
Mike Haugen's victorious descending team. Climbing Washburn's Thumb at 16,600 feet was strenuous and exhilarating. The airy ridge walk after that felt slightly less airy with cloud filling the void on either side of the crest. It took us 8.5 hours, with some glitches and minor setbacks, but we got up to high camp. The weather improved at 17,200 ft as the clouds fell far below us and the sun made everything comfy and magical as the evening progressed. We'll likely rest tomorrow, but that doesn't mean we won't be looking out early to check conditions.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
RMI teams, led by
Pete Van Deventer and
Chase Nelson, reached the Mt. Rainier summit at 5:45 a.m. The weather is nice and at 7:05 a.m. the teams were at High Break on their descent.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
Hello again from
Artesonraju Base Camp. We delayed one day our departure to Paria North due to bad weather this morning. We are hoping to launch tomorrow morning, as the skies are clearing up as we speak. That's it for today folks!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
RMI Guide Brent Okita called from the
Mt. Rainier crater rim with the news, "We are on the summit on a Bluebird Day!" Clear skies, no wind, and views for miles- can't beat a summit like that. The teams spent an hour on top before starting their descent at 7:00 a.m.
With a pre-midnight alpine start from the Cayambe climbing hut, we woke to a starry sky and light winds; all systems were go. We had a quick breakfast, got geared up in the hut, and were walking by midnight. The weather was perfect for our climb and so were the mountain conditions, with firm (but not icy) snow for efficient cramponing. The climbing was varied: rock scrambling to reach the glacier, gentle glaciated slopes, a steep 200’, 45° headwall, and a narrow summit ridge. Six hours later we were all standing on top of Cayambe, at 19,000’ that lies directly on the equator. We enjoyed great views of
Cotopaxi, the Ilinizas and Antisana to the south, and
Cotacachi and
Imbabura to the north. We spent a half hour on top, high-fiving, hugging, taking pictures, and even singing.
As we descended, winds increased and clouds were rising from the rain forest to the east. Soon a nasty-looking lenticular cloud formed over the summit. But our timing was perfect; we were well below this by now and smoothly descending back to the climbing hut. In less than an hour after arriving at the hut we were packed up and loaded into four-wheel drive vehicles and headed back to the hacienda
Guachala for hot showers, delicious food, and comfy beds. Tomorrow we’ll head back to Quito for the night.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
June 30, 2017 2:13 am PST
After a thirteen-hour summit day, the crew is back at high camp safe and sound. The conditions were variable all day from sunny and calm to windy and snowing. We had to break trail both to and from
Denali Pass. I am proud of the whole crew and the effort that they put in for a successful summit day!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
P.S.
Gloria says Happy Birthday to her dad!
On The Map
The "moving up" picture wasn't all that clear this morning at 5 AM. Nor was it at 6 or 7 or 8 or 9. There was plenty of cloud about and some signs of wind on the ridges where we wanted to be. By the time the weather had improved, it was our judgement that we'd be getting into high camp at a later hour than we'd prefer. We traded the physical difficulty of moving up for the mental difficulty of sitting tight for one more day at 14 K.
One more day of rest, one more day of acclimatization, one more day of anticipation.
We managed it just fine. Ultimately the clouds closed in on
14,000' Camp and took away our views. We had sporadic radio contact with Mike Haugen's RMI team as they felt their way up through higher clouds toward Denali's summit.
Tomorrow is our day to move!
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
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The pictures are amazing !incredible feat!
Safe home!
Posted by: Kevin Murray on 7/2/2017 at 5:04 am
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