RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: Walter Hailes
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
Adjusting to the low oxygen of high altitude environments is a natural process that we will all experience if we travel or live at high altitudes. Like all things in life, some people are better at adjusting to high altitude than others. Fortunately, there are ways that each of us can prepare at home and in the early stages of mountain travel before going to the big peaks.
We all experience the low oxygen of high altitude a little differently, but the most prominent symptoms of going to high altitude are categorized as the condition Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is composed of a group of symptoms that can present themselves after spending some time at high altitude. Symptoms of AMS include headache, fatigue, anorexia, nausea and insomnia. While the severity of these symptoms can vary, AMS does not have to end your climb but should be used as an indication that your body is struggling to acclimatize.
The most important aspect of performing well and staying healthy in the mountains under the stress of low oxygen is by being physically fit. If you have been following a rigorous training program then you are well on your way to being physically fit for your climb. Fitness cannot prevent the symptoms of AMS but if the daily physical tasks of climbing are easier due to your high fitness level, then you have more energy reserves to battle the stress of the low oxygen environment.
Proper nutrition and hydration are also important variables leading up to and during your climb. While you may avoid simple carbohydrates during daily life, at altitude simple carbohydrates are the most efficient and most preferred form of energy for your acclimatizing body. Don’t be afraid to eat those high glycemic foods while working hard at altitude!
Dehydration can certainly be detrimental to your performance and health at high altitude, but you do not need to constantly consume water. Listen to your body, specifically your thirst, it has been finely tuned over many generations to keep you hydrated.
The prescription medication acetazolamide (Diamox) can help with acclimatization to high altitude, but it is not a magic pill that will solve all your high altitude problems. Diamox has repeatedly reduced AMS symptoms and hastened acclimatization during multi-day clinical and laboratory studies. It can work and is a great tool to use if you are not acclimatizing during an expedition even though you are using a standard acclimatization schedule, but its efficacy is less known for a quick overnight summit attempt such as Mt. Rainier. Remember: all medications have side effects that you need to understand before using and Diamox will not make up for a lack of fitness when headed into the mountains.
The bottom line is make sure that your body is fit enough to handle the stress of a high altitude mountain trip, and listen to your body while you are at altitude. If you pay attention, your body will tell you what fuel you need to keep going and how well you are adjusting to the high altitude environment. Have fun and climb safe!
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Walter Hailes is a senior guide at RMI and has guided extensively in North and South America. He also works as an exercise physiologist at the University of Montana, primarily studying the human capacity to endure/excel in difficult environments including high altitude, extreme heat and cold.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts on the RMI Blog!
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 1,800'
Matt hope you are enjoying your climb be safe! love mom
Posted by: terri mcmahand on 6/4/2013 at 9:04 pm
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On The Map
DJ - Looking good - good chance for summit soon - go for it guy but stay safe - Love Mom & Dad
Posted by: norm uhlir on 6/3/2013 at 8:29 pm
Jessica,
From your hubby. Hope you all had a good rest day. Look forward to reading more. Safe climb!
Until the next post. Hector
Posted by: Hector Valle on 6/3/2013 at 7:16 pm
Posted by: Linden Mallory, Walter Hailes
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
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On The Map
Monica, Im in sunny fla, dad and i are following your adventure and know you and the team are doing great!all our thoughts are positive and confident in your skill And strength. We toast you with a glass of wine out on the dock each night! Cheers!
Posted by: meredith on 6/3/2013 at 4:51 pm
Monica and team, I’m betting by the time you get this message you will be in high camp ready for your summit day. Be strong..it is such an amazing view from the top of North America…soak it all in and then get down safely… Good luck team…
Posted by: Fletch on 6/3/2013 at 4:29 am
On The Map
Outstanding work everyone! looking forward to the updates, and tell Fallout we said hello from Denver.
Posted by: stump on 6/2/2013 at 2:09 pm
A special Hi to Lori. Greeting to the rest of the team. Thanks for these updates. Mom
Posted by: Fern Hansen on 6/2/2013 at 12:06 pm
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On The Map
Monica and team, I hope the weather cooperates tomorrow! I’ve been calling in all my favors to Mother Nature.. Hopefully it’ll work! I’m so happy for you all to have made it to 17,200, now all on to the summit! Good luck!!! Miss you! XOXO
Posted by: Leslie on 6/4/2013 at 10:20 pm
Awesome work team. You all rock! Keep pushing on!
Posted by: Rob Carrizzo on 6/2/2013 at 6:32 am
Good luck to the Westminster team! Thinking good thoughts for all!
Posted by: Julie Bassett on 6/1/2013 at 7:41 pm
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On The Map
Hey Lori, Thank you for the post card. :) You all are amazing! Climb safe! Hugs from Maggie and Casey.
Posted by: Casey Hansen on 6/1/2013 at 5:10 pm
Robin and Team
Mexican food @ 7800’... who would of thought…. What? no Subway?? :)
Hope everyone has a good climb today. You are all in my thoughts and prayers
today for a continued good safe ascent and good weather.
Eagerly looking forward to your daily blogs and new map locations.
Stay warm and stay safe.
Happy Trails to you…
Matt
Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/1/2013 at 12:12 pm
Posted by: JJ Justman, Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,600'
Hope the weather hold out for your team. Good luck and thanks for a great adventure last week.
Posted by: Gary Butcher on 6/1/2013 at 3:59 am
Looks like you guys had beautiful weather! I’m so jealous! Have fun and stay safe!
Posted by: Michaela on 5/31/2013 at 10:49 pm
hey
Posted by: natalie on 4/27/2018 at 9:03 am
It was rally useful for me. I am going to improve the level of my mountaineering with the use of this methods.
Posted by: hossein bakhtiarzadeh on 2/27/2014 at 9:02 pm
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