Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Hi, this is Brent calling from the RMI Okita McKinley Expedition and we're calling you from the summit of Mt. McKinley. Right now it's 5 o'clock in the afternoon on a beautiful day here, minimal winds and a few high clouds around. It is just gorgeous! The team did a super job getting up here today. We are taking photos right now and getting ready to head out and get back to camp. I will try and give another call when we are back to camp. I just wanted to let you know everyone is doing super well at 20,320. Congratulations to the team! I am a bit emotional. It has been a great day. Bye.
RMI Guide Brent Okita calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley, 20,320 ft.
You are amazing Gerald!!!! You are one in a million, always have been and always will be!!! We miss you tons! Please come and visit with family ASAP! The Hamptons in the summer isn’t the same without you! Love you Gerald!
Love,
Kimmy
Yesterday's carry to 14,000' left many members of the team knackered, so today is a very relaxing rest day in our well-appointed camp at 11,000'. A leisurely morning was the main agenda, with coffee, bagels, cream cheese and smoked salmon on the breakfast menu. A pan of hash browns and cheese is on deck for the afternoon snack.
The posh house, our group meeting location, kitchen, and dining room is in heavy use today, with its many panel seams radiating out from the center pole like the legs of an octopus. Under its protective canopy we've been solving the various problems of the world and making sure we stay hydrated. Team members drift in and out, while conversation and laughter drifts across camp.
Fortunately the light snow we have had the past couple of days is tapering off, and the sun is working to dry out our moist sleeping bags and tents. We are conserving our energy for tomorrow's move to 14K camp, which will put us over the halfway mark and in good position for the higher reaches of the mountain.
Climbing a mountain like Denali is a long process, and taking time to get to know one another is a big part of that. Today's rest is allowing the team to strengthen our group dynamic, and get to know each other more intimately. What started as a group of strangers more than a week ago is quickly morphing into a solid team of friends, ready to tackle the rest of the "Great One."
But we'll leave the hard work for tomorrow, and enjoy the down time today. Stay tuned for more!
Dan, Robin, Jess, James, Lori, Justin, Tyler and Garrett
So glad to hear the weather has improved and the sky is being kind to you guys!Hope the spirits stay high and every one stays safe. Love you Robin.
Lisa
Posted by: Lisa on 6/7/2013 at 9:10 pm
Thinking of you, Lori. Thankful for these e-mails, I look forward to them each day. Met Wendy by chance at Culvers, special. Keep having good weather, and good luck to you all. Mom
The RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Team led by JJ Justman and Pete Van Deventer are spending the week on Mt. Rainier doing some Denali Prep Training. The team is doing well and having a great time learning some advanced mountaineering techniques. The team plans to make an attempt at the summit early tomorrow.
Best of Luck Team!
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
We were excited this morning as we awoke to a windless day which followed an equally windless night, a far cry from our first night here. With the sun just lightly obscured by some high clouds things looked reasonable for a summit bid. It was even relatively warm at camp, though our team mate from the South might well disagree with that assessment.
We knew today was by no means a sure thing, and went into it with our eyes wide open. And, as you might have guessed by now, we did not tag the summit today. But we did get to Denali Pass, 18,400', which was a huge accomplishment! Unfortunately, the weather up over the summit was not particularly inviting, and we had a light but annoyingly cold wind at the Pass where we are obliged to take a break after over two hours of climbing.
So, we spun it. But we all got so much out of it. The route had quite a bit of snow on it so it was good to kick in the trail. Also, just doing that first part of the route will help everyone the next time we go up it. And, that could well be tomorrow.
Some people suggest that tomorrow might be the nicest day of the period. We're definitely ready for a return to beautiful blue skies, even though the weather forecast reads: more of the same, that is low pressure bringing with it snow and clouds.
The team is ready to go back up tomorrow.
And so am I!
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Congratulations Gerald and to the entire team! Hope you enjoyed the view from the sumitt. Safe travels down!
miss ya!
P.S. Aliki passed the being “faithful” test we talked about while you were gone ;)
Posted by: john azua on 6/6/2013 at 5:18 am
Gerald, well it is tomorrow night here (June 5) and the suspense is just too much! Whatever the outcome of the day just know everyone back home is wishing you and your team all the best. You HAVE gone in the direction of your dreams and you most definitely are living the life you imagined!! So, so, proud. Stay safe, stay focused and climb strong. Love and miss you. Aliki, Riley & Charlotte
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
Today we woke to a calm, warm and partly cloudy morning at our 11,000' camp! A 7am wake up had us working our triceps downing a cup of coffee and a bowl of oatmeal. Then the hard work with the legs began for our 3,000' climb. Starting with the grind of Motorcycle hill where the ridge provides amazing views of the Washburn wall and Father and Sons wall. Both walls are enormous, sporting 8,000' of vertical relief. With strong efforts by all the team we continued up through Squirrel Hill, across the Polo Fields with the magnificent end of the direct West Buttress looming above. Our ascent around the infamous Windy Corner was just a cool light breeze, a welcome reward. The crew arrived to the 14,000' camp in good shape and we dropped our supplies for the coming days. It was the longest and most work of our trip putting in 7 hours on our feet. The descent was smooth with new blown powder covering the trail, making for soft crampon walking back to the rest and relaxation of the tents for a while before we move in to the disco circus tent we call our living room and kitchen for a very well earned quesadilla extravaganza. We plan to take a day of rest tomorrow and count on our recovery at this lower altitude with continued acclimatization to be hugely beneficial to our success up higher on the mountain. That's all - got to go now, catch you all on our rest day tomorrow!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens
Great job everybody!!! A special hello to Lori. :) You are all an inspiration. I hope you stay warm and safe! Good luck!!! Love and hugs,
Maggie and Casey
Lori-P.S. Keep God in your heart.
Posted by: Casey Hansen on 6/6/2013 at 8:43 am
Robin and Team
Congratulations on your trek to 14k. Sounds like you guys had a difficult day but some amazing views! Hope you get some well deserved rest today. Take care and good luck tomorrow. Looking forward to updates. Praying for your safety and success. Stay warm.
Robin - P.S. got your Father’s Day Cards :)
RMI Guide JJ Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on Wednesday, June 4th, 2013, marking his 200th summit of the mountain. JJ has been a mountain guide for eighteen years, leading climbers on climbs and expeditions around the world, from Mt. Rainier to Alaska to the Andes to the Himalaya, including Mt. Everest.
"People often ask me how I can climb Rainier day in and day out year after year, if it ever gets old? And my answer is always the same. No," said Justman. "I climb Rainier to share the experience with first time climbers. I see the emotion on people's faces as they come down from the mountain as they say, "I can't believe I did that"! And now with 200 summits I have seen and heard that a lot from hundreds of people. And it never gets old. I look forward to sharing the unforgettable experience with many others as I climb towards 300!"
Below is a compilation of photos from JJ's climbs over the years. We wish JJ a big congratulations and many more safe climbs to come!
- The RMI Team
YAY JJ! That’s awesome! I was on your rope with you when you completed your 175th in 2011, it was such a great time that I am coming to do it again next week. You’re a kickass guide! -Andy R
Posted by: Andy on 6/5/2013 at 3:55 pm
Wow JJ ... 200 summits. What an accomplishment! Congratulations!!! Fred K
Monday, June 3, 2013
Our first encounter with snow and wind came after we hit the sack last night. Comfortably tucked away in our well anchored tents, and snug in our mounds of down that encapsulate us each night, we knew we weren't in any danger, and by Denali standards our visit with foul weather was fairly mild. But the winds still kept many of us up more than we would have liked.
So, when I checked the weather at 7:30 and didn't like what I saw, I don't think there was a one of us that missed hearing my wake up call for a summit bid. An hour later the winds calmed and things did look better, but not perfect, so I let the team sleep in.
At breakfast we all confided that we were happy that the day did not turn out good for the summit. Even some of our studs of the trip admitted to feeling the altitude and having some fatigue left over from yesterday's efforts.
Our morning was spent building up walls to protect us from the annoying wind, then by lunch we were back in the tents enjoying the incredible warmth that the suns rays produce at this elevation. Even though outside it was chilly, inside our watch thermometer got as high as 113 degrees. OK, it was measured at the ceiling and we had all the doors closed, but though a little excessive, the heat felt wonderful soaking through our bodies.
Right now the weather looks good. The ominous cloud cap that had settled on the mountain for most of the day has disappeared and I am more optimistic than I have been. The forecast remains the same, for whatever that's worth.
I think we're all thinking that it might just happen tomorrow, but who knows. All I really know is that we're all ready if the day dawns fair. Which means that I too should probably get some sleep.
Goodnight from 17,200' camp.
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Hey Virg, Did you see my time capsule when you were on the summit? Isn’t it the most indescribable, unique feeling to reach the top?!! Your feelings run amuck as you slowly comprehend “oh my god, I made it!!” It was your dream, your goal for so long and now it’s a memory to cherish forever! Remember seeing my photos of us eating lunch on the summit! Best lunch ever!! On to Aconcagua!! Why not! I’m very happy for you and relieved for your mom and dad! Big HIGH FIVE buddy! Linda
Posted by: Linda Foss on 6/6/2013 at 8:19 am
Hi Monica—
All the news is very exciting and we send everyone our warmest wishes.
A poem by Rene Daumal:
You cannot stay on the summit forever,
you have to comedown again.
So why bother in the first place?
Just this; what is above knows what is below,
but what is below does not know what is above.
One climbs, one sees. One descends,
one sees no longer but has seen.
There is an art of conducting oneself
in the lower regions
by memory of what one saw higher up.
When one can no longer see, one can
at least still know.
Much love and good weather,
M&D
Posted by: Marianne and john on 6/4/2013 at 7:56 pm
Monday, June 3, 2013
Today was a day of light work and much chilling. We were able to sleep in later than any other day so far, which is always a nice treat in the mountains. We did get some fresh snow overnight, so we spent the first few minutes of the day clearing off tents and backpacks. But by 9:30 we were all feasting on righteous breakfast quesadillas filled with fluffy eggs, crispy bacon, melted cheese and topped with hot sauce, which fueled the crew for our back-carry.
We headed back down to our cache and retrieved all our gear, and began the grind back to camp. While the oblong sleds dragged a little in the new snow, we were still able to complete the trip quickly, and before 1 o'clock we were back in camp. Now we are enjoying all the delicious lunch food we had cached, gorging on tasty morsels.
The team is currently resting and getting ready for a hard day of work tomorrow. We're planning to carry a load up to 14K' camp, and the stretch of mountain between here and there will be the most difficult terrain so far. While it may seem like mountain climbers have some strange fetish for being cold, smelly and sore, there is no substitute for the reward you feel at the end of hard day of climbing. We'll check back in tomorrow with an update, so until then keep sending positive energy and wishes for high pressure!
RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett, and the Crew
James and the team,
Greeting…glad to see everyone is making safe and steady climbing, having fresh snow overnight, and eating well. Stay strong and enjoy majestic views on the mountain covered with snow. Praying for safe journey. Can’t wait to see awesome pictures!
Posted by: Soonja Choo on 6/4/2013 at 5:02 pm
To James Choo -
Just learned that Walter Glover will be doing the Mt. Rainier 5-day Summit Climb, June 13-17.
The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Andres Marin and Geoff Schellens were forced to turn at the traverse to the nose of the cleaver (11,000’) due to unstable snow. The teams performed snow tests which confirmed the snow instability. The weather this morning was clear but windy with gusts of 45 mph as the teams descended back to Camp Muir.
The Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir led by RMI Guides JJ Justman and Pete Van Deventer are making their ascent to Camp Muir today to begin their week of training and climbing.
Sunday, June 2, 2013
The weather has finally changed. No more perfectly sunny , windless days. Instead, this morning we saw some clouds both below us and above. But they were fairly light clouds and the winds remained calm. A change none the less. After sixteen days of perfect weather these clouds might seem ominous, but in reality the weather was fairly nice. So, we picked up and moved up to high camp at 17,200'.
Gambling on the weather is one of those things that is just a part of mountain climbing. Do you stay or do you go? Given the relatively benign weather forecast I opted to take advantage of a nice day to move up.
An early start allowed us to reach camp by 3:00 where we were able to have our pick of walled tent spaces. We were even able to dig in the Posh House. After a little while some snow started falling and we figured we'd just have a simple dinner and allow the team to eat in the comfort of their tents. After all, we had had a big day with heavier packs that our previous climb and folks could feel the effort. But, not this team. It's impressive that when offered room service at 17,000' everyone of the team chose to get together for dinner.
No, today there was no singing, but everyone was in good spirits and hoping to get a good nights sleep. Our plan is to check out the weather in the morning and go for it if things are good. Otherwise, we'll have a good rest day.
It's great to be in position for a summit bid finally. All we need now is one good day.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Stay strong! You are almost there! Well, actually you are already doing and seeing places and things that most of us only dream of, so please appreciate how far you have come as well!
We love you, Dennis!
Shelly, Jon and Tasha
Posted by: Shelly Uhlir on 6/5/2013 at 8:50 pm
Jeff H and friends—Hoping today is the day! Here’s to a fabulous summit.
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You are amazing Gerald!!!! You are one in a million, always have been and always will be!!! We miss you tons! Please come and visit with family ASAP! The Hamptons in the summer isn’t the same without you! Love you Gerald!
Love,
Kimmy
Posted by: KImmy on 6/24/2013 at 8:35 am
Simply phenomenal!
Congratulations
-th
Posted by: Tom H on 6/8/2013 at 1:53 pm
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