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Denali Expedition: Parrinello and Team Descend to base of Ski Hill

June 20, 2022

Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Sunday, June 18, 2022

Dun-dunana-dun-dun-dunnn (Imperial March music...please use your imagination)

We continued our migration down glacier from 14 Camp to the airstrip. Instead of a Flying V, we are in a Tromping I, roped together as always but this time it is very obvious as to why. The Kahiltna Glacier has melted down and broken up significantly since our last crossing. Weaving left and right, searching high and low for snow bridges that looked like they would support our weight. We finally make it the base of Ski Hill and decide to call it a day. The heat of the day has started to weaken the already soft snow and low and behold who do we see on the horizon??! It’s an RMI team headed uphill! Andy Bond and crew have just arrived at Camp 1. So we decide to spend the night with them to both let the snow and our bonds of friendship strengthen! Ends up there are mutual friends not only amongst the guides but also the teams! Let us rejoice! Tomorrow in the wee early hours of the morning we shall resume our march with refrozen snow and renewed strength in our quads.

We have the downhill mentality and the end is in sight (figuratively)!

Cheers,

RMI Guides Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed and the team

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Season Ends

May 30, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

RMI Guide Mark Tucker reported from Everest Base Camp that RMI Guide Melissa Arnot and her climbing partner Dave Morton have safely returned to Base Camp. Unfortunately, they were unable to summit Mt. Everest on this expedition but we are all glad that they are back safe and sound. The season on Mt. Everest is complete and the tent city at 17,575' which came alive in mid March with expedition members, trekkers, Sherpa and Base Camp staff is now bare of tents and people. Congratulations again to RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Linden Mallory on their successful summit climb. Thank you to Mark Tucker and all the staff at High Altitude Dreams for another safe and successful season on Mt. Everest.

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter: Brent Okita & Team Train at Camp Muir

April 10, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

We had some high winds during the night. At dawn the winds deteriorated and we barely had any wind today. Great morning of training with self- and team- ice axe arrest and cramponing. With our crampons on, we roped up and went to the nearby glacier to train. Our tentative plan is to do crevasse rescue training tomorrow. The forecast is for more high winds coming in tomorrow. The winds are supposed to decrease tomorrow night, which looks like the best summit bid window. We’ll have an exploratory team go up later today or tomorrow to check out route conditions. RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Torres del Paine: King & Team Arrive in Punta Arenas

February 7, 2022

Posted by: Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Torres del Paine

Quick check in for the Torres del Paine trek group. We are all in Punta Arenas with our luggage. The amount of paperwork and long lines to enter Chile was the first major obstacle. With late arrivals we didn’t get much sightseeing around Punta Arenas with the exception of a few walks along the water front to see the sculptures and lots of cormorants. Today we will head to Puerto Natales to sort our gear and enjoy some of the Southern “fjord” landscape that make up this area. I will be sending daily updates of our trip once we enter Torres del Paine National Park on Tuesday.

Thanks,

RMI Guide Mike King

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Everest BC Trek & Lobuche Climb: Dale & Team Reach Everest Base Camp

March 29, 2019

Posted by: Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche

Elevation: 17,575'

Now that we've checked the big goal of Everest Basecamp our sights are set on climbing Lobuche. It is a 20,000-foot peak which towers above the Khumbu valley. Today we departed basecamp after a great breakfast of bacon and eggs, a welcome change. Basecamp accommodations are some of the nicest on the trail with hot showers and amazing food. As we headed down the trail we were impressed with the number of supplies heading up. We saw tables, an oven, and a large mattress all being carried on the backs of porters up to support the climbers. Tomorrow we head to high camp on Lobuche and position ourselves for a summit! Think clear calm skies. RMI Guide Christina Dale

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Enjoy Perfect Day, Reach Summit

June 21, 2023

Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike Haugen, Nicole De Petris, Sam Hoffman, Charlie Harrison, Cal Seeley

Categories:

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Brent Okita & Mike Haugen reported a perfect day of climbing on Mt. Rainier today. The Four Day Climb June 18 - 21 reached the summit around 7 am and enjoyed some time in the crater before starting their descent. The teams started their descent from the crater rim just after 8 am and will return to Camp Muir. After a short break the teams will continue the final 4.5 miles to Paradise and be transferred back to Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams to the Top

July 15, 2022

Posted by: Casey Grom, Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Our July 12th - 15th Four Day Team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. RMI Guides Casey Grom and Dustin Wittmier checked in at 7:30 am as they were leaving the crater rim. Casey reported a clear day of climbing with steady winds of 30 mph. The team ascended and descended the Disappointment Route.

Congratulations team!

Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Trekking to Pheriche

March 30, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 13,950'

Leaving Deboche this morning we walked through the last of the rhododendron and pine trees of the Khumbu, climbing higher into the valley where only small shrubs and juniper grow. We crossed back over the Dudh Kosi river on a narrow bridge and walked past rows upon rows of Mani stones and chortens, eventually reaching the small village of Pangboche. There, we paid a visit to Lama Geshe, the renown spiritual leader. Chanting in his native tongue of Tibetan, he blessed us on our journey into the mountains, writing a letter to Chomolungma, the goddess of Everest, requesting safe passage for us. Finally, laughing a deep soulful laugh each time he pronounced our anglophone names, he strung a small red string and then kata scarf around our necks, before wishing us good luck. The day remained clear and we had wonderful views of Ama Dablam soaring above us as left Pangboche, climbing further up the valley towards the impressive south face of Lhotse. Eventually, we reached a split in the valley, where the rivers diverge, one coming from Island Peak and the other from Everest's Khumbu Glacier. Following the Dudh Kosi towards Everest, we climbed up and over a shallow pass on the trail before dropping into the village of Pheriche. There Ang Nuru, a vibrant and energetic sherpa happily welcomed us into his teahouse, making us comfortable in the wonderfully decorated dining room. In the afternoon we strolled over the the Himalayan Rescue Association's Pheriche Clinic and listened to a discussion on altitude by the western doctors here. Tim bravely volunteered to climb into the Gamow Bag, a portable hyperbaric chamber, where the staff of the HRA pumped it up and brought Tim down to an elevation of less than 9,000' below Lukla where we started the trek. It was a quick ascent back to 14,000' when he emerged! The team is doing very well and excited to be here. Tomorrow we are going for a day hike above Pheriche and then returning to the teahouse to celebrate Mark's birthday. We are sending our best to everyone at home. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

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Mt. Everest: Sherpa Support Fund

April 21, 2014

Posted by:

Categories: Everest

Thank you for your calls, inquires and support regarding the tragedy on Mt. Everest last week.

If you would like to make a donation to be used to help the families who lost loved ones in the avalanche and those who were injured, you can do so through the American Alpine Club - Sherpa Support Fund. Thank you, The RMI Expeditions Team

Elbrus Climbers Acclimatize in Cheget

August 6, 2010

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 7,500'

We reached the small village of Azau last night as daylight shrank from the mountains, their presence only hinted at by the dark forms obscuring the stars around us. Thankful to put an end to the traveling for a bit we dumped our bags in our rooms, grabbed a quick bite to eat in the restaurant, and collapsed into our beds. Upon waking this morning we immediately caught glimpses of the mountains, the craggy summits of the Caucasus visible through the skylights of our rooms. With the morning sun quickly burning away the cool mountain morning we set off on a day hike, walking down the valley to the village of Cheget. The rural areas of Russia are a contrast in times, old homes of concrete slabs and rusting corrugated roofs sit along the road, gardens sprouting in the front while livestock grazes on the hillsides behind, while a store next door advertises rentals for the latest ski gear from Western companies. This was even more pointed yesterday as we drove past old Soviet factories used to build tractors and parts for their space program, long since abandoned and now occupied by grazing cows that walk the roads, causing the Mercedes and vans of climbers coming from the airport to weave between the wandering bovine. Yet overlooking the continually changing landscape stand the stunning summits of the Caucasus. Upon reaching Cheget, we hopped on an old single seat chairlift, each chair painted in bright colors to hide the age, and quickly emerged from treeline. To the south lay the jagged heart of the Caucasus, the knife edge ridgelines cutting through the sky and delineating the Russian/Georgian border, to the north loomed the glacier capped twin summits of Mt. Elbrus, the mountain we traveled so far to climb. At 10,000' the air was thin and we walked slowly along narrow trails weaving through slopes, exposing our bodies to the new altitudes, which will benefit us tonight when we return to 7,000' to sleep. With that exposure to higher elevations our bodies will work harder to prepare for the increased effort needed at high altitudes. Returning to Cheget for lunch we dined on "Shashlik" - chicken kabobs roasted on the open fire burning on the patio, before returning to our lodgings in Azau to sort our gear for tomorrow and get some rest. Tomorrow we leave the valley and ascend to the toe of the glacier on the south side of Elbrus. We plan on spending some time in the afternoon to climb a portion of the glacier before returning to our hut for the evening. The team is doing well and pleased to be here in the mountains. We are looking forward to pulling out our climbing gear and heading onto Elbrus.

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Most Popular Entries

Denali Expedition: Parrinello and Team Descend to base of Ski Hill

Mt. Everest Expedition: Season Ends

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter: Brent Okita & Team Train at Camp Muir

Torres del Paine: King & Team Arrive in Punta Arenas

Everest BC Trek & Lobuche Climb: Dale & Team Reach Everest Base Camp

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Enjoy Perfect Day, Reach Summit

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams to the Top

Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Trekking to Pheriche

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Mt. Everest: Sherpa Support Fund

Elbrus Climbers Acclimatize in Cheget

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