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RUTH GLACIER SEMINAR: Delaney & Team Fly onto Glacier

Hello all –

The team awoke to find improving weather and a newfound hopefulness to escape the ever-shrinking Talkeetna. After a walk to the local coffee shop the team began their standby at K2 Aviation where they waited for the green light for clear enough cloud cover to depart. At around 3pm, the signal was given and in a mad flurry the plane was loaded, and the expedition was a go! The team enjoyed a scenic flight into the freshly snow coated Alaska range with nearly clear and sunny skies. Once on the glacier, the team was quickly left alone to divide gear, load sleds, and embark down the valley. Deep snow made for slow travel as the team broke the trail through a few feet of fresh Alaskan powder. After a few hours, the team broke down for camp, probing a safe spot on the glacier and settling in. Tents were quickly pitched, and dinner was thrown together. The team enjoyed a clear and scenic backdrop before heading to bed.

All the best,

RMI Guides Mike Bennett, Jack Delaney and the Ruth crew!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

I saw clear skies in w app. How exciting! Just look at that snow! Gorgeous view. Early to bed. Stay warm and safe y’all. Enjoy

Posted by: Susan on 5/5/2023 at 9:45 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams to the Top

Our July 12th - 15th Four Day Team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. RMI Guides Casey Grom and Dustin Wittmier checked in at 7:30 am as they were leaving the crater rim. Casey reported a clear day of climbing with steady winds of 30 mph. The team ascended and descended the Disappointment Route. 

Congratulations team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Awesome Dustin!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 7/16/2022 at 3:34 am


50 Years of Climbing: Lance and Annette Berg and Mt. Rainier

2010: On the Summit of Pico de Orizaba, Mexico. Lance is holding the RMI flag. ---- In honor of our 50th Anniversary, we are featuring stories of first climbs. Stories from guides and stories from climbers. Today we are excited to share Annette Berg’s story of her late husband, Lance’s first climb of Mt. Rainier. Annette will be climbing Mt. Rainier on a Five Day Climb later this month in honor of her 25th wedding anniversary and in memory of her husband, Lance. Find out more about having your first climb featured on our blog! ---- When we were married in 1994, RMI was 25 years old. This year would have been our 25th wedding anniversary, but unfortunately my husband, Lance, passed away three years ago. So it seems befitting, with RMI’s 50th and my 25th anniversary, to share our story – mostly Lance’s climbing journey, which played a huge part in our life. It all started with a hike up Green Mountain in the Glacier Peak Wilderness of Washington State in August of 2000. Family members wanted us to hike this mountain. Our shoes were all wrong, the packs were terrible, and we did not have enough water. In the days following this monumental first hike, both of us opted to crawl up the stairs in our house. The soreness was ridiculous and lasted for days. Once we recovered from Green Mountain, we decided we actually enjoyed the pain and suffering. So we bought proper hiking gear and started hiking regularly. It got a lot easier with time. 2010: Lance at Plaza Argentina, BaseCamp on Aconcagua. One afternoon in 2001, we found ourselves on the Skyline Trail of Mt. Rainier. On that afternoon everything changed. We ran into groups of descending climbers. This was new! We both knew nothing of the climbing world and we both were instantly fascinated by them. Somehow they were like mythical creatures. They looked cool and had the coolest stuff attached to their big backpacks: ice axes, crampons, helmets, ropes. They had seen places that truly not a lot of people get to see. Earthly folks on the Skyline Trail made way to let them pass. It was impressive. Suddenly hiking took on a whole new dimension. It was still just hiking, but we started to educate ourselves about Mt. Rainier, Mt. Everest, mountaineering equipment, Camp Muir, Ed Viesturs, etc. We figured out that RMI existed in Ashford. We attended the first Rainier Mountain Festival that RMI had (even before there was the Bar and Grill). Ed Viesturs was there and we had our picture taken with him. He was our new idol. Annette Berg at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford, WA. All along we heard stories about the Muir Snowfield. We heard about the dangers of it. In our minds, only those mythical creatures could walk up the Snowfield to get to Camp Muir. One day, we hiked up to Pebble Creek and dared to walk onto the Muir Snowfield. We probably went up about a quarter of a mile and then, for no apparent reason, became freaked out by our own boldness and returned promptly to Pebble Creek. We did however, feel quite accomplished with our quarter mile venture. Throughout the years, the hiking continued. The mountaineering knowledge increased. We actually dared to go to Camp Muir many times, sometimes a few times a week. We still admired all the mythical creatures that were at Camp Muir ready to climb the Mountain. Then in 2008, Lance decided he would climb Mt. Rainier and become one of those mythical creatures. He went all in and signed up for a climb with Ed Viesturs and Peter Whittaker in August 2008. I guess I was his base camp manager. I helped him with all the packing, repacking, and food selection. We combed through the agenda and checklists for hours to make sure he had everything. It was exhilarating. 2008: Mt. Rainier. From L to R: Peter Whittaker, Melissa Arnot Reid, Lance Berg, and Ed Viesturs. On a hot and sunny morning, when the Viesturs/Whittaker team went up to Camp Muir, I was at Pebble Creek taking pictures like paparazzi as they passed by. I wished them luck and waived them off. By the time I returned to Paradise, it was noisy and very busy. I had binoculars and from the parking lot I could see the upper end of the Muir Snowfield. I think that was the moment I fell in love with the Mountain. I saw the groups of climbers, like centipedes, silent and graceful, above all the commotion of Paradise. Up there the centipedes seem to be one with nature and worshipping the Mountain. I was convinced that the tourists down below had no clue about what goes on up there. Lance made his first summit. Then mountaineering became a passion. He loved climbing with RMI. He loved the adventure and the social aspect. He preferred to climb with RMI rather than privately because he knew a lot of the guides. If a jacket, shirt, or hat had the RMI logo on it, he had to buy it. If I wanted to be seen in his company, I had to have items with the RMI logo. I was part of all his training and planning. Heck, I have seen so many orientations at RMI, I could give that presentation. Every summer, RMI BaseCamp in Ashford was our happy place. We would drive the two and a half hours to Mt. Rainier many times for a day of hiking, or to go up to Camp Muir, and then returned to RMI for food and beer. We attended many more Mountain Festivals. 2012: Lance celebrates his 6th summit of Mt. Rainier. This summit was via the Emmons Route. Lance ended up climbing Mt Rainier seven times with RMI. One of the climbs was the Emmons route. Every time he came down, I was waiting for him at BaseCamp with a beer ready and sandals so he could free his feet from his climbing boots. One day, there were even a few of the Seattle Seahawks Cheerleaders at BaseCamp, but that’s a different story entirely. Lance’s other RMI climbs included Mt. Shuksan, Cotopaxi and Cayambe in Ecuador, Ixtaccihuatl and Pico de Orizaba in Mexico, and Aconcagua in Argentina. 2010: Lance on the summit of Aconcagua. Just to make it clear, Lance’s death in 2016 was not due to mountaineering. Since then, I have continued to return to Mt. Rainier and RMI BaseCamp in the summers to hike. Sometimes I’m alone, sometimes with family or friends. The Mountain will always be one of the most amazing places I have been to and it holds a special place in my heart. This year with our 25th wedding anniversary, my plan is to summit Mt. Rainier in Lance’s memory. I want to take Lance’s picture to the summit. The Mountain has brought him and me so much happiness. I need to stand on top so I can feel closer to the mythical creature my husband has become. Annette Berg
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I loved reading this touching article you wrote Annette and seeing the pictures as well. I’m glad that climbing Mt Rainier gave both you and my brother Lance much happiness and still continues to give you many good memories. You are a strong woman and are amazing to climb Mt Rainier so many times!  I will always remember hiking lower Mt Rainier with you and our family in memory of Lance. Memories of Lance and that hike will stay in my heart forever ❤

Posted by: Cherie Berg Wasmund on 7/9/2019 at 7:09 pm

I love that Lance’s passion for the mountain and climbing lives on through you Annette. We will be at up at Camp Muir cheering you on and are looking forward to celebrating with you afterwards!

Posted by: Bret Berg on 7/9/2019 at 6:44 pm


Everest BC Trek & Lobuche Climb: Dale & Team Reach Everest Base Camp

Now that we've checked the big goal of Everest Basecamp our sights are set on climbing Lobuche. It is a 20,000-foot peak which towers above the Khumbu valley. Today we departed basecamp after a great breakfast of bacon and eggs, a welcome change. Basecamp accommodations are some of the nicest on the trail with hot showers and amazing food. As we headed down the trail we were impressed with the number of supplies heading up. We saw tables, an oven, and a large mattress all being carried on the backs of porters up to support the climbers. Tomorrow we head to high camp on Lobuche and position ourselves for a summit! Think clear calm skies. RMI Guide Christina Dale
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Woohoo! Very excited for your summit of Lobuche. Hoping for good weather!

Also, let Michael and Bruce know that Duke beat Virginia Tech in a close game. 75-73! On to the Elite 8! Go Duke!

Posted by: Katie F. on 3/29/2019 at 9:05 pm


First Ascent Team Checks in From Kathmandu

The climb of Mount Everest has begun. Our team came together in these past few days, flying by various routes and trajectories around the world to Kathmandu, lugging all manner of electronics, insulation and enthusiasm. Good meals and nights of uninterrupted slumber have repaired some of the jet-lag grogginess and disorientation. We've met as a team several times now and have gone over preliminary plans and strategies. Tomorrow we fly into Lukla and begin walking. It is no stretch to suggest that all are looking forward to simply walking. That will be a welcome change from months of planning and packing and wondering about the future. Personally, I can't wait to be walking. Katmandu is always an exciting place for a climber to visit... but most of us wouldn't want that visit to be any longer than is necessary when Everest is the goal. There is too much chance for getting sick either from taking in smoggy air or dodgy food. There is still charm to this huge city, but it isn't wise to go hunting extensively for that charm just now. Katmandu is struggling these days; the electricity is only on a third of the time and so there is a nearly constant background noise of hotel diesel generators throbbing away. People are nervously recounting a winter devoid of moisture and the resultant severe water shortages they are now dealing with. As usual there is uncertainty over Nepali central government effectiveness and concern for how worldwide financial troubles will impact the country. Walking in the countryside will be perfect. We won't think just yet of the dangers of the Khumbu Icefall or the winds that might scour the Lhotse Face. We'll put off worrying over Hillary Step traffic jams and jet-stream meanderings. Instead we'll set off walking through lush forests and fertile farmland through the villages our Sherpa teams live in. We'll get talking some and walking more and we'll get away from cell phones and email. We'll try not to trip or step in goo... we'll take pictures of distant mountainsides and close-up flowers and our lives will get simpler than they have been for some time. I'll speak with Erica and Ed Dohring; my clients, and will explain how this ten-day trek can be the perfect way to prepare for a big climb. I'll try to tell them what I can of the Sherpa culture and the mountain history. Perhaps I'll get to introduce them to a few famous climbers along the trail. I'll mug for the cameras, as our team tries to capture our First Ascent gear being rolled out on its maiden voyage in the great mountain range. I'll try to stay healthy, warm and dry... simple.
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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Get a Brisk Dose of Winter

May 27, 2014 - 10:34 pm PT Greetings! The team awoke this morning at Denali's 14K camp to a brisk dose of winter. A few inches of snow fell overnight and winds were blustery and it was apparent another weather / rest day was in order. The team enjoyed a casual breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and our go-to guilty pleasure, bacon. Regretfully, we said goodbye this morning to our friends Mike Walter and team as they began the journey home after spending the last few days enjoying their company here at 14K camp. We are in great position for a bid for the summit as soon as the weather allows, and we are anxiously awaiting our opportunity. Until then, hope all is well and thanks for following! RMI Guides Robby, Pete, Josh and Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Patience is a virtue but sometimes there is not enough to go around. Enjoy the current rest area, you’ll soon be on your way. How much bacon?

Enjoy the beauty of where you are at!

Posted by: Frank Haasbeek on 5/28/2014 at 11:21 am

You’re almost there guys! Enjoy the bacon and the views! You are all awesome!

Posted by: Cara n' Jay on 5/28/2014 at 8:38 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Summits!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Alan Davis and Jess Wedel reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The route from Camp Muir to the 14,410' summit took the team 6 1/2 hours to climb. It was a windy morning, but otherwise clear.  

Congratulations Team! 

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Congrats team!  Very fun meeting and hiking with you all.  Big thank you to our awesome guides, Alan, Sam and Sam :)

Posted by: Jeffrey Kirk on 7/24/2023 at 8:45 pm


Vinson Massif: Team Moves Uphill

Another day of storm, as predicted and expected. But it seemed as though things were improving gradually and so we thought we might sneak up into position at Low Camp so as to be ready for the good weather. This plan worked well, at first. We packed up and got rolling from basecamp at 1:30 PM. At the big right-angle turn of the Branscomb Glacier we picked up our cache from yesterday and marched on. Travel was actually easier than it had been for the first Vinson team since much of the soft snow blew away. With a good path and calm and even occasionally sunny conditions, the miles flew by. We hit low camp at 9,300 ft right on five hours, at 6:30. That also happened to be the moment that the first big cold and random wave of wind played through. Sure enough, the storm had a sting in its tail. We got hammered by gusts as we carefully built our tents and lit stoves. It all certainly lent drama to our situation, but the team remained in good humor and coped well. Meals were served up in the sleeping tents instead of in the POSH, but that worked out just fine. By 10 PM the wind was behaving much better and it pretty much quit by midnight (although it can still be heard howling through high camp, 3,500 ft directly above us). Obviously we want our share of good and stable weather to begin tomorrow, but if necessary, we can wait right here for whenever the fine stuff shows up. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Mt. Rainier: Okita, Smith & Teams Reach Summit

The Four Day Climb June 12 - 15 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita & Hannah Smith reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning just before 7 am PT.  Brent reported gusty winds during their climb today. The teams didn't stay long on the summit and are descending to Camp Muir.  After a short stop at Camp Muir the teams will continue down to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Reach Summit of Pequeno Alpamayo

RMI Guide Eric Frank called from the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo this morning at 7 am PT. The entire Bolivia Expedition Team along with Eric and Caleb were enjoying the views from the top! They will return to Base Camp of the Condoriri Group to spend another night and plan to do some additional training from there tomorrow. Way to go team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Kim up there!  What a terrific trip you’re on!  Wish your dad & I could do all the not-climbing parts!  : )  Have a great and safe climb and enjoy it to the max!  xx Trish

Posted by: Trish on 5/26/2017 at 9:48 am

Way to go Kim & team!Must be amazing views!Take lots of photos.Love,Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 5/26/2017 at 9:40 am

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