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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Arrive Back at Airstrip

We left 14,000' Camp this morning on a mission. We were going to make it to Kathiltna Basecamp. We packed up our heavy packs and sleds and headed downhill. The weather was just right for our long haul. We had a nice breeze all day that kept us from cooking on the sometimes brutally hot lower glacier. We worked our way well over 10 miles of glacier and finally found our way to a deserted Basecamp and airstrip. Since it was too late for the ski planes to come and pick us up, we hunkered down, set up camp, and ate a nice dinner. We even found a couple of beers in our cache. I wonder how those got there? RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete

On The Map

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Welcome Home…almost.

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 7/7/2019 at 9:46 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000ft Camp

Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 6:20 pm PT

The team enjoyed a beautiful day at 14,000' Camp today, resting from the days prior and preparing for the days ahead! We are planning to rest again tomorrow, after the last ten days the team deserves it!

RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team

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Looks as though you’ve all built quite a lovely camp there at 14K - hard to imagine a better view!  (Are those skis near that snow wall?  Ambitious!)

Enjoy the rest and thank you for all the updates - they really mean a lot.

Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/29/2022 at 11:01 pm


Mt. Baker: Ammon & Team Summit via the Easton Glacier

RMI Guide Ben Ammon led a small group of climbers on a quick ascent of Mt. Baker via the Easton Glacier.  This strong and quick team reached the summit of Mt. Baker today and made a complete descent. They have now completed their program.

Nice work team!

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Sara McGahan on Base Camp and the Glaciers

Today is another gorgeous day here at Everest Base Camp. There isn't a cloud in the sky, and with a little breeze the usual heat of the day is masked. This morning, Dave, Linden, and I took a walk down the medial moraine - the strip of rock that runs down the middle of the Khumbu glacier, and arrived back to camp just in time for lunch. I hadn't been on the lower part of the Khumbu glacier since we started our rotations up the mountain, and although Dave pointed out to me at that time how the glacier would be different in about a month or so, I couldn't have imagined a more drastic change. The once frozen ice ponds are becoming lakes of glacier water, and rivers of melted ice are rushing down valley. Rocks are perched on ice pinnacles that haven't melted due to the shade the rock provides, and water runs down 10-15ft icicles that hang off the still frozen part of the glacier. Although I've climbed and hiked on multiple glaciers before, I've never lived on one for this long. Over the years I've heard so much about how quickly glaciers move and change, and have definitely seen slight changes while being on them, but have never seen with my own eyes how quickly they move and to what an extent they can change in just a months time. On a different note, down here in Base Camp teams are now hustling with preparations for summit bids. With the route now fixed up high people have been summiting everyday. Yesterday, Tshering and Uberaj both carried to the South Col to help prepare us for our summit bid. Tshering is now safely down at Base Camp and Uberaj stayed up higher on the mountain and is holding down the fort at Camp Two. Over the last few days I've been trying to rest as much as possible. I've made significant progress on my English and Science projects, but besides that and a few walks here and there, I've been sleeping, eating and drinking as much as I can. As Dave always tells me, "rest with a purpose," and I've been trying to get myself in as good shape as I can be to prepare myself forour own summit bid. Time is running short here at Base Camp. Virtually everyone will be gone from here in the next 3 weeks as we all try to fit our summit bids in before the monsoons hit in June. So, while we rest, it's weird to think that everyone here (about 350 people) will all move out shortly. Thanks for following along on our adventure! Sara
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SAYYY!! sry this is a late response to this but im soo glad i read this cause its nice to read and hear about the journey from your perspective!!! Your almost there keep up the good work! Couldnt be more proud we miss you back here CRAZYYYY AMOUNTS!!!! love & hugs, <3 kmy

Posted by: katherine on 5/16/2011 at 6:55 pm

Sara, great update especially describing how the glaciers move and change. What an adventure! Love it that you’re eating, sleeping and drinking as much as you can! I spent the last few days with Billy, Katie, and Morgan and we are all so rooting for you. Be safe - sending much love. P. S. We did go to YogurtLand.

Posted by: Grandma on 5/15/2011 at 11:38 am


Vinson Massif: Snow Sculpture Contest at VBC

Another day drifting in the Vinson Basecamp milk bottle, surrounded by whiteness. Except it was fun. The RMI team competed in a snow sculpture contest with the New Zealand team and the German Team today. TA built a Canadian living room replica, complete with couch, fireplace, TV and maple leaf. Then she joined Mindy and I in constructing a team of sled dogs pulling a sled and a towering and imposing Amundson, arriving at the Pole. We'll concede that he was so massive that his dog team appeared to be composed of puppies, rabbits and squirrels. The German guide, Reigner, built an impressive titanic replica. Vlado made snow angels inside his tent. After dinner the ALE staff judged the artwork and found each and every climber to be deserving of a cold beverage. Twenty of us, from 11 countries, sat in the basecamp headquarters tent for that beverage and a fine custard desert and received the good news that the ALE Twin Otters had just departed South Pole bound for Union Glacier. If our weather shapes up by morning, things could start happening fast. Or not. We shall see. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Wishing you sunny day tomorrow! Enjoy hte rest of this moment Vlado, it will never come back same way.
Talk to you soon
Maria

Posted by: maria on 12/16/2011 at 11:00 pm

Enjoy the moment Mindy - such a fantastic experience & result!
We’re missing you here at home!
Love dean

Posted by: dean on 12/16/2011 at 10:14 am


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: City Tour of Quito Ecuador

Hello Everyone and welcome to RMI's Ecuador Expedition 2011. The entire team safely arrived last night and headed straight to our nice hotel, Hotel Mercure Alameda, to get a little rest after the long flights. We started today with a huge Ecuadorian buffet breakfast full of delicious breads, pastries, fruit, juices and washed it all down with plenty of coffee. After filling our stomachs we sat down for a round of meet and greet that included an orientation and overview of the program ahead. Just after 10 a.m. we headed out the door on our city tour of Quito, starting off with a visit to the colonial old town. We were lead by our local guide Jorge though the narrow roads with stops at the Basilica, church of La Campania (built in 1605), the monastery of San Francisco (built in 1535) and a visit to Independence Square to see the President's Place. Next up was a quick stop atop the Panacilla which is a small hill overlooking Quito with a 200' statue of the Virgin of Quito. The views where wonderful of this 2 million-plus city. We finished the tour by heading a little to the north to stop and visit both hemispheres at the Equator from where Ecuador gets its name. It was fascinating to see the Coriolis effect in both hemispheres with different results in just a few feet. It made believers out of most, but I hear there are still a few skeptics among us. We headed back to our hotel for a quick gear review and a little shopping before dinner and have now returned to catch a little shut eye before tomorrow's adventure. All is well and everyone is excited to be here. RMI Guide Casey Grom
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Charles,

Have a great time. I’m posting the blog!

Debbie Growe

Posted by: Debbie Growe on 12/5/2011 at 10:10 am

Spencer, looks like a great group of people.  Have fun, be careful and make sure you don’t get too “hangry”.

Ti Amo.
Karen

Posted by: Karen Geiger on 12/2/2011 at 7:59 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team On the Descent

Wednesday, June 1, 2022 - 12:52 am PT

Quick dispatch: We are homeward bound. We packed up camp at 17,000' and started down the West Buttress. We got to high five the team led by JT Schmitt as they passed us on their ascent. At 14,000, we regrouped, grabbed everything we had left, and considerably heavier, started towards 11,000' Camp. By 6 we had made it to 11,000'. The air is so much thicker! We dig up our cache from what seems like ages ago, and made a quick meal in team Champion's cook tent. We'll sleep for a few hours, then wake for an early push to the air strip. With any luck we'll be in Talkeetna mid morning tomorrow.

RMI Guide Pete, Leif, Erika, and team

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Thank you, thank you for taking us on this trip with you and for your commitment and skill in guiding your team safely.  We at home are grateful.  Barbara

Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 6/1/2022 at 9:47 am


Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team Enjoy Rest Day At Tambopaxi

Greetings all,

With a body exhausted from little sleep and climbing a volcano the team enjoyed a great nights sleep. Sleep apps showed we all slept so well we were basically comatose. As we all rose from our slumber we casually allowed our bodies to wake while sipping coffee and basking in a beautiful morning. 

Today is a rest day as we transfer to Tambopoxi and run through some skills. A three hour drive through more beautiful scenery brought us to the park entrance. Once again you can feel the excitement as we get ready for Cotopaxi. The mountain is being shy tonight, so no views of this beauty yet. Maybe in the morning she will reveal herself. 

Before dinner the team gathered around a playground set where we pretended the monkey bars were the edge of a crevasse. In this scenario the team learned how to self rescue if they had fallen into a crevasse. Using the previous skills of learning about friction hitches, we all ascended the rope pretending we were climbing out of crevasse. Cookies and a glass of wine/beer wrapped up our skill session. 

Many times on climbing trips you lose some weight, but on this trip we are all eating so well that who knows maybe we gain a pound. Dinner once again was delcious followed by a beautiful looking dessert. We are not sure exactly what it was but we can all agree it was delightful.

With heavy eyes, we all leave the table for bed. Showers and phone calls to loved ones wrappwd up our rest day. Tomorrow we go through some more skills before heading up to the hut on Cotopaxi. Round two here we come!

RMI Guides Adam, Hannah, and team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Summit!

Sunday, June 20, 2021 - 8:23 pm PT

This afternoon around 2pm the team stood on top of Denali! After weeks of hard work we got the sweet reward of the top.

We were the first team to summit in at least four days, which made for a true Alaskan climbing experience. We broke trail for 7.5 hours to get to the top. Most of the permanent protection was buried, so we placed our own and put in the track to the top!

Starting early made it so we had the peak to ourselves and really got a true experience of a summit day on Denali!

Now we just have to descend from 17K Camp to the upper airstrip over the next couple days. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to my my son, Alan Davis and to the rest of the team on your summit!  Dad couldn’t be more proud of you!  A wonderful Father’s Day gift to have given me!  Love you and safe travels to you and the team on your descent!

Posted by: Patrick Davis on 6/21/2021 at 1:03 pm

Congratulations to Matt and the rest of the team, who summited Denali yesterday. Matt, you worked so hard training. In fact for this climb you started in 2020 only to have that trip canceled. Buddie, our sheltie, enjoyed his mountain climbing in Phoenix on your easy days of training. So glad your guides let you make a second attempt for the summit. And thank the guides for great up dates. Safe travel to the 6 of you down the mountain. Can’t wait to hear the stories.

Posted by: Mary and George Howell on 6/21/2021 at 12:07 pm


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Leave Khumjung, Head Towards Final Objective

Hello! We have started our progress towards Ama Dablam, and we left Khumjung this morning under an unusual layer of fog that made our walk a bit chilly and damp. Our arrival to Debuche, half way between Khumjung and Ama Dablam Base Camp, was greeted with the best soups so far this trip, and we are enjoying the afternoon staying warm inside our lodge, named Rivendell. Nothing more to report from the trails today, other than we have started to feel the home stretch of our journey towards Ama Dablam; early bed tonight and tomorrow base camp! RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
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