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Chile Ski: Reid & Team Find Perfect Conditions and Enjoyable Skiing on Sierra Nevada

October 4, 2019

Posted by: Tyler Reid

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Chile Ski

Yesterday we raced to set up our tents under the Araucaria trees as a fast moving thunderstorm approached. This morning we awoke in a thick snowy cloud. After an hour of skinning up an ever narrowing ridge, we rose above into glowing morning light and blue skies. Last time we came to ski Sierra Nevada was five years ago and we got 95% of the way there, but ran out of time. Today, snow conditions were perfect for skinning all the way to the summit. On top we had impressive views of our neighbors, Lonquimay and Llaima. And crystal clear radio communication with Sergio at his lodge way down in the valley. Three hours later, after a highly enjoyable skiing experience, he picked us up in his Land Rover (it’s a gnarly road) with cold cervezas. Some photos... RMI Guide Tyler Reid

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Amazing photos! Good going you guys. Enjoy the cervesas, salud, y saludos a Sergio!

Posted by: Wolf Riehle on 10/4/2019 at 9:35 pm

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Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Return to Base Camp, Unable to Summit

November 17, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam

Elevation: 14,993'

Hello from Ama Dablam Base Camp! Are you unsuccessful when you don't reach the summit of one of your objectives? Well, I think that if you have carefully prepared for it and put yourself in the best position for it, despite little odds in our favor according to the forecast, and you make the decision to head down because the one thing you can't control is totally out of control, then yes, you're successful. It was windy when we arrived at our High Camp, it was windy throughout our short stay, and it was like a freight train when it was time to go. There's no way we could fight on the steep, cold and dangerous slopes of Ama's southeast ridge what "Eolus" had in store for us. So the only thing we could do, knowing that we had waited until the very last day, was to be smart and head down. Undefeated, because in the mountains what counts is telling the story. But sure disappointed to not to have been able to climb just a bit more. But oh well, we're now back to the safety of our lodge at Base Camp, and we'll stay our descent tomorrow, eager for thicker air and why not, to start closing up our Himalayan adventure. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

First Ascent Team Checks in From Kathmandu

March 28, 2009

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

The climb of Mount Everest has begun. Our team came together in these past few days, flying by various routes and trajectories around the world to Kathmandu, lugging all manner of electronics, insulation and enthusiasm. Good meals and nights of uninterrupted slumber have repaired some of the jet-lag grogginess and disorientation. We've met as a team several times now and have gone over preliminary plans and strategies. Tomorrow we fly into Lukla and begin walking. It is no stretch to suggest that all are looking forward to simply walking. That will be a welcome change from months of planning and packing and wondering about the future. Personally, I can't wait to be walking. Katmandu is always an exciting place for a climber to visit... but most of us wouldn't want that visit to be any longer than is necessary when Everest is the goal. There is too much chance for getting sick either from taking in smoggy air or dodgy food. There is still charm to this huge city, but it isn't wise to go hunting extensively for that charm just now. Katmandu is struggling these days; the electricity is only on a third of the time and so there is a nearly constant background noise of hotel diesel generators throbbing away. People are nervously recounting a winter devoid of moisture and the resultant severe water shortages they are now dealing with. As usual there is uncertainty over Nepali central government effectiveness and concern for how worldwide financial troubles will impact the country. Walking in the countryside will be perfect. We won't think just yet of the dangers of the Khumbu Icefall or the winds that might scour the Lhotse Face. We'll put off worrying over Hillary Step traffic jams and jet-stream meanderings. Instead we'll set off walking through lush forests and fertile farmland through the villages our Sherpa teams live in. We'll get talking some and walking more and we'll get away from cell phones and email. We'll try not to trip or step in goo... we'll take pictures of distant mountainsides and close-up flowers and our lives will get simpler than they have been for some time. I'll speak with Erica and Ed Dohring; my clients, and will explain how this ten-day trek can be the perfect way to prepare for a big climb. I'll try to tell them what I can of the Sherpa culture and the mountain history. Perhaps I'll get to introduce them to a few famous climbers along the trail. I'll mug for the cameras, as our team tries to capture our First Ascent gear being rolled out on its maiden voyage in the great mountain range. I'll try to stay healthy, warm and dry... simple.

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000ft Camp

May 29, 2022

Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 6:20 pm PT

The team enjoyed a beautiful day at 14,000' Camp today, resting from the days prior and preparing for the days ahead! We are planning to rest again tomorrow, after the last ten days the team deserves it!

RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team

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Looks as though you’ve all built quite a lovely camp there at 14K - hard to imagine a better view! (Are those skis near that snow wall? Ambitious!)

Enjoy the rest and thank you for all the updates - they really mean a lot.

Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/29/2022 at 11:01 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Get a Brisk Dose of Winter

May 27, 2014

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 27, 2014 - 10:34 pm PT Greetings! The team awoke this morning at Denali's 14K camp to a brisk dose of winter. A few inches of snow fell overnight and winds were blustery and it was apparent another weather / rest day was in order. The team enjoyed a casual breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and our go-to guilty pleasure, bacon. Regretfully, we said goodbye this morning to our friends Mike Walter and team as they began the journey home after spending the last few days enjoying their company here at 14K camp. We are in great position for a bid for the summit as soon as the weather allows, and we are anxiously awaiting our opportunity. Until then, hope all is well and thanks for following! RMI Guides Robby, Pete, Josh and Team

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Mt. Rainier: ALA Climb for Clean Air Team Summits!

July 14, 2022

Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Nikki Champion

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The American Lung Association Climb for Clean Air team led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Nikki Champion reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team climbed the Disappointment Cleaver Route and had a beautiful day of climbing.

The climbers on these teams raise funds for the American Lung Association’s Climb for Clean Air Campaign. As of today the teams have raised $335,690.06!!

Congratulations Teams!

Video: Rainier Summit Climb

May 31, 2008

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410 ft.

A climb to the top of Mount Rainier led be RMI Expeditions in 2008

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You all have enormous courage.
I’m glad you made up there, and come down safely.

Posted by: Nikki on 10/19/2020 at 9:33 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Summits!

July 22, 2023

Posted by: Alan Davis, Jess Wedel, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Trevor Katz, Will Ambler

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Alan Davis and Jess Wedel reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The route from Camp Muir to the 14,410' summit took the team 6 1/2 hours to climb. It was a windy morning, but otherwise clear.

Congratulations Team!

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Congrats team! Very fun meeting and hiking with you all. Big thank you to our awesome guides, Alan, Sam and Sam :)

Posted by: Jeffrey Kirk on 7/24/2023 at 8:45 pm

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Vinson Massif: Team Moves Uphill

December 6, 2011

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 9,500'

Another day of storm, as predicted and expected. But it seemed as though things were improving gradually and so we thought we might sneak up into position at Low Camp so as to be ready for the good weather. This plan worked well, at first. We packed up and got rolling from basecamp at 1:30 PM. At the big right-angle turn of the Branscomb Glacier we picked up our cache from yesterday and marched on. Travel was actually easier than it had been for the first Vinson team since much of the soft snow blew away. With a good path and calm and even occasionally sunny conditions, the miles flew by. We hit low camp at 9,300 ft right on five hours, at 6:30. That also happened to be the moment that the first big cold and random wave of wind played through. Sure enough, the storm had a sting in its tail. We got hammered by gusts as we carefully built our tents and lit stoves. It all certainly lent drama to our situation, but the team remained in good humor and coped well. Meals were served up in the sleeping tents instead of in the POSH, but that worked out just fine. By 10 PM the wind was behaving much better and it pretty much quit by midnight (although it can still be heard howling through high camp, 3,500 ft directly above us). Obviously we want our share of good and stable weather to begin tomorrow, but if necessary, we can wait right here for whenever the fine stuff shows up. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Take Another Rest Day

May 31, 2022

Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Monday, May 30, 2022 - 10:43 pm PT

Today we rested again at 14,000' Camp. The team has been soaking up the rest, eating lots of food and drinking plenty of fluids. Thanks for following along and we will keep you posted on what we end up doing tomorrow!

Thanks,

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.

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Most Popular Entries

Chile Ski: Reid & Team Find Perfect Conditions and Enjoyable Skiing on Sierra Nevada

Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Return to Base Camp, Unable to Summit

First Ascent Team Checks in From Kathmandu

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000ft Camp

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Get a Brisk Dose of Winter

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: ALA Climb for Clean Air Team Summits!

Video: Rainier Summit Climb

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Summits!

Vinson Massif: Team Moves Uphill

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Take Another Rest Day

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