A unique walk took us off the beaten path to Thamo Monastery where we listened to the nuns chant, ring bells, and blow long horns. They brought us a taste of their traditional Tibetan tea which is super salty and hard to drink more than a sip of, but we were honored guests.
Our group is so strong and doing great with the altitude and hiking. Everyone is full of energy and incredibly positive about the journeys ahead. Our local team of Sherpa are so kind and great culture and climbing guides. They have all climbed Everest, and two of them 7 times each. They love trekking as well as climbing and sharing their home valley with us. We feel lucky to get to know them and learn about their lives here the in the Khumbu. Thank you Nima, Lakpa, Lakpa, and Kami!
Tomorrow will bring a long day on the trail up to another Monastery and higher elevation. The team is doing so well that we know it will go smoothly.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Greetings from Kyajo Ri Camp 1. What a day we had!!! We departed with headlamps and returned with headlamps... Having to forego our move to Camp 2 yesterday due to the high winds, delivered not only a beautiful day today, but a marathon one. Regardless, we wanted to reach the elevation of Kyajo's summit to better prepare for Ama Dablam. So we did!
Now everyone is very tired, and we look forward to some rest coming up.
Regards,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
The storm that seemed to be coming in yesterday afternoon got here. The morning wasn't actually all that bad. Just a bit breezy and overcast, but it was obvious that up high it was hitting a lot harder. For all of that, though, it didn't hold our team back. Lam Babu and the Sherpa team (Cherring, Kaji, Gyaljen, and Uberaj) were out in the dark, walking just after 4 AM bound for Camp One. The first carry went well and the boys established camp at close to 20,000 ft, reporting not much in the way of difficulties with the Khumbu Icefall (in truth though, our guys rarely report much in the way of difficulties).
Not willing to be totally sedentary while the Sherpas were setting such a fine example, the rest of us set off on a hike to Pumori Camp One. We figure that camp sits at about 18,600 ft, so it is perfect for getting in a workout and getting a little time up high without exposing ourselves to hazard. We even got some great views of the black pyramid-top of Mount Everest fighting it out with monster storm clouds. The West Ridge was taking on its ten millionth storm, splitting wind and clouds with its jagged rock prow. As we got a bit higher, scrambling our way up a rocky trail, we were treated to views of both the North Col (23,000 ft in Tibet) and the South Col (26,000 ft in Nepal). We were able to see all the mountains we'd trekked through to get to Everest, and closer to home it was humbling to look at the giant hanging glaciers of Pumori and Nuptse, up close and personal. We didn't spend too long at Camp One, before dropping back down and joining the trekker traffic again on the main trail to Basecamp. We were well motivated by Chef Kumar's lunch scheduled for 1:30 PM. As we got in the tent for lunch, it began snowing outside and so we mostly just huddled up and slept, read and played games for the afternoon. Such is expedition life at the moment. We are getting stronger each day now... We hope.
Several days ago a tragedy occurred as one of the "Icefall Doctors" suffered a crevasse fall and died close to Camp One on Everest. We were very much aware of this sad circumstance at the time, but chose not to break such news on the blog. Obviously it wasn't our news to break and we didn't want to get ahead of word reaching family and loved ones through proper channels. But it is time to acknowledge the loss of one devoted climber and of the selflessness of our own Sherpa team, who played a key role in the rescue effort. Chherring Dorje flew by helicopter to the scene and managed the retrieval while Lam Babu conducted things from the heli-pad at Everest Basecamp. Although there was a sad outcome, I was extremely proud that our partners were able to offer help to the Icefall Docs, whom we admire very much. This small team of about a half dozen men are hired by the National Park to establish and maintain the route through the Khumbu Icefall. It is physically demanding and dangerous work. The docs do an incredible job each year, and the same men come out year after year. They never boast or seek recognition... They aren't rewarded by being able to tag the summit and run up their "count" on the mountain, and they are paid modestly. Mingma was from the village of Dingboche and leaves a wife and several daughters. Of course many of us will try to help out with donations... Mingma was working on our behalf... but there is no getting around the reality: this dangerous work has once again taken the ultimate toll.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Thank you for sharing your updates. Sorry about your loss. You do such a great job at giving credit where credit is due. Such a humbling experience for all involved. It is great to hear about your progress and sad to hear about the loss. Prayers and well wishes to your team and all who are climbing. Be safe.
Rachael. ABQ Uptown #985 NM/CO/AZ
Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 4/11/2013 at 9:19 am
Here’s an inspirational quote for Dan Johnson and his team
- your friend Jake
“To those who have struggled with them, the mountains reveal beauties that they will not disclose to those who make no effort. That is the reward the mountains give to effort. And it is because they have so much to give and give it so lavishly to those who will wrestle with them that men love the mountains and go back to them again and again. The mountains reserve their choice gifts for those who stand upon their summits”
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Katuz Route early this morning. Mike reported great climbing, clear skies, and light winds. The Kautz Route is a great adventure for physically fit climbers ready for a slightly more technical adventure on Mt. Rainier, and today's team climbed strong! The team will be descending the Disappointment Cleaver Route, taking a short rest at Camp Muir before returning to Paradise.
After enjoying a day of training at Ingraham Flats, 11,200ft, yesterday, the Five Day Climb June 29 - 3 July led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Emma Lyddan put their training to good use. The teams climbed 4,500' from Camp Muir to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Steve reported a pleasant day on the mountain with a bit of a breeze towards the summit. The teams began their descent from the crater rim just before 7:30 am en route to Camp Muir. Once back at camp they will have a short break to repack before continuing the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.
Warm temperatures and overhead hazards on the climbing route prevented today's Four Day Climb from reaching the summit safely. RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and team walked to Ingraham Flats to enjoy the sunrise and make the most of their time on the Mountian. They had and early departure from Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
It's another beautiful day and the Four Day Climb teams are enjoying clear skies and light winds as well as a full moon last night. The teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 5:30 AM. With the nice weather they enjoyed some time in the summit crater before starting their descent. The team will continue down to Paradise later this day and conclude their program with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to all the climbers!
The June 3rd Expedition Skills Seminar Team safely reached Camp Muir yesterday afternoon. Here is a video from their ascent to Camp Muir. The team will spend the today training at Camp Muir.
We have had a great few days working our way south from Araucania to the Lakes District. We had a nice day of ski touring on the ridges across from Lonquimay before heading south to Pucon. Beautiful views that morning of Sierra Nevada, Llaima, Villarrica, Tolhuaca and Lanin.
We had a nice rest day in Pucon while a wet storm hit the region. That day we were slated for Villarrica, the most active volcano in South America. It's currently under "Amber alert" after spitting some lava and smoke in the last couple weeks. Our backup plan was another nearby mountain - Quetrapillan. But with a forecast of heavy snow and 80 knot winds, a down day seemed like a better plan.
Yesterday we worked our way further south into the Lakes District, arriving to Refugio Teski on the flanks of Volcan Osorno. This morning we set off in light snow flurries and low visibility, once again with optimism that things would improve. Improve they did as we skinned through the cloud deck into the sunlight. We didn't quite make it to the top of Osorno. The wind was whipping and the steep summit slopes were icy. But we did get an amazing 4000'+ descent above Lake Llanquihue. Snow conditions were once again uncharacteristically good for this time of year - a smooth, preserved, fast powder surface illuminated in cold sunlight. Quite a run to end the trip on. And one that should make the wait for our Northern Hemisphere winter more tolerable. An added bonus was having our friend and outfitter Sergio join us on Osorno. He doesn't usually travel this far south with us but this was a special cameo.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
It is tough to realize just how hard Everest is on the human body until one comes back down to "normal" altitudes like 17,500 ft Basecamp. The first night of deep sleep convinces you that whatever you thought you were doing for twelve hours a night at 21,300 ft was not actually sleep. A plate of breakfast that you actually want seconds on makes you think of how easy the mountain would be to climb if you could have had your normal appetite up at ABC.
Life is easy for us today at Basecamp. Chairs with backs to lean against. Oxygen and air pressure in abundance. Cellphone connectivity. Showers and mostly clean clothes. And very little risk for a change... Unlike looking forward to a day on the Lhotse Face or a morning in the Khumbu Icefall. Not so much can fall on us on our rest day and we aren't likely to step on anything that collapses without warning.
Lots of good things about life at Basecamp... once the morning flurry of helicopter flights is finished, there is peace and quiet and a billion dollar set of views out every tent door. Today the views included jet stream winds raking the upper Lhotse Face, driving snow a thousand feet higher than the mountain itself. We are catching up on the news and trying to beat Mark Tucker at a game or two, but he has all of the advantages while our brains are still fuzzy and our bodies are tired. Tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Well deserved rest!!!! Omg!!
Be safe!
Posted by: lisa maiser on 11/7/2018 at 4:45 pm
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