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Denali Expedition: Gately and Team are back at 14,000’ Camp

Thursday, May 31, 2019 12:11 AM PT The team is know all safely back down at 14 camp and tucked in for the evening. Summit day was a long hard fought battle but everyone did fantastic. The morning of our summit attempt we woke up in early in an attempt to beat the crowds up our first obstacle, the "auto bahn". This section often takes a couple hours to complete without a break and is steep and exposed. The exposure of this terrain requires us to use a form of running protection that protects the team against a fall but is quite time consuming. The end of this hurdle puts you at Denali Pass and our first rays of welcome sunshine. From here steep rolling glacier takes us up and around a swirled white and black rock feature known as "zebra rocks". At the top of this feature we were faced with a gentle but cold 15 mph wind. The terrain mellows out quite a bit as we meander through open glacier past a prominent rock point known "arch deacons tower" and into the football field, a flat depression just before our final slope to the summit ridge. Once on the summit ridge a short but dramatic climb brings us to the summit. The team took a few moments to take pictures and celebrate the ascent before our attention was turned toward getting back home. All in all the trip took us 13 hours round trip, all at elevations above 17,000 ft. With the summit behind us we turn our focus now to trying to truly get back home. Cloudy and snowy weather are abundant in the extended forecast which means chances of flying off anytime soon are nil. Tomorrow we'll check the weather in the morning and make decision to further descend, or to keep the luxury of our fortified camp here at 14, or opt for better weather. That's all for now, it's late again as I'm writing this and I'm in need of some serious rest! Thanks for following along everyone! RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team
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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Wraps up a Stormy Week at Camp Muir

Hello world, it’s us the Camp Muir Seminar!

Yesterday, we awoke early, donned our technical gear and launched towards the Ingraham flats to train before the next storm system hit in the mid afternoon. Sadly the storm had other plans and hit Camp Muir around 9am. We retreated in a white out with winds averaging 58mph during our time on the Cowlitz glacier. The storm has been impressive in its power and consistency. It is not snowing so much as it is launching ice pellets at us with high velocity. Moral stayed high as we continued to practice various technical skills in the bunkhouse. The team took brief forays into the violent snow globe that was the outside world to shovel out the bathroom. We were highly motivated to maintain our access to the facilities.

We are excited to find a lull in the weather to head down hill, dry out and enjoy some pizza and beer at the Basecamp Bar and Grill. 

All is well - The Muir Seminar Team

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Aconcagua Expedition: Scott & Team Carry to Camp 1

Done and dusted! The team just crushed what is objectively the most difficult day of the trip outside of summit day. The packs are the heaviest, the altitude change is the hardest, and nerves and anxiety are usually pretty high. Everyone is always wondering how they will perform. Well, every member of this crew absolutely styled the carry! I couldn’t be prouder of all of them and all of you friends and family at home should be equally as proud. Now they have the rest of the afternoon to chill and enjoy a huge BBQ lunch prepared by our killer basecamp crew. Woohoo! Feels good to have the first one done. We will be taking another rest day tomorrow to help increase our chances of better acclimating before making the move to Camp one. High fives all around!

RMI Guide Nick Scott

 

Ode to the Rest Step

My dearest rest step, you are the absolute best

With every foot placement you give us a micro rest

These tests that make climbing the alpine possible 

Even with the heaviest pack you make us feel invincible!

And when you remember to pressure breath we can climb with no reprieve.

Oh rest step, with you we will never stop,

And we will always make the mountain top!

 

Signed

-unknown 42yr old Portland Poet

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go TEAM GO!
Especially Jake!

Posted by: Team Pizza on 1/15/2022 at 9:47 pm

Congratulations everyone! The rest is well deserved!

Posted by: Coeli Scott on 1/15/2022 at 6:54 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Arrive Alaska, Prepare for Adventure

Tuesday, June 13, 2023 - 11:11 pm PT

All present and accounted for in Talkeetna, Alaska.  Most of us came together in the Anchorage airport this afternoon.  Some traveled today, others in the proceeding days. We joined forces for the van ride up to Talkeetna under overcast and sometimes rainy skies.  We busted up the three hour drive with a pause in Wasilla to round out provisions.  All of this got us in to Talkeetna by about 7 PM.  We did an easy evening of pizza downtown and came back for a rest at the Swiss Alaska Inn.  The real business of the expedition starts tomorrow morning. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Just keep climbing.

Posted by: Shannon on 6/16/2023 at 10:17 am


Denali Expedition: Champion and Team Wait for Weather Window on Airstrip

Saturday June 11th, 2022 – 9:04pm PT

After making our way from 17 camp to 14 camp, we crawled back into our tents and took a nap. Around 10pm, we woke up for either a late dinner or early breakfast of Ramen noodles and began packing up camp for what we thought would be the very last time. While we had walked into 14 camp in a whiteout, during our nap the clouds had settled below us and it had become a beautiful brisk night.

With camp packed up, we headed towards Basecamp and the airstrip. While we arrived in decent weather, we got word that clouds kept the planes from flying all day. We've now crawled back into our tents and await a weather window that allows us to fly back to Talkeetna.

Think good weather thoughts!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

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Sorry to hear about the bad weather at the end of the trip. The good news is that the mountain has been conquered and that you are all at base camp. Hoping a weather window opens soon. Well done everyone.

Posted by: Robert Edge on 6/12/2022 at 10:25 am


Kilimanjaro: Grom and Team Visit Lake Manyara National Park

Hello one last time.

Today was our last day here in Tanzania so we opted for a moderately leisure departure from the tranquil Plantation Lodge.

Our first stop was to a huge gift shop so everyone could bring back a few souvenirs.
By the looks of it, a few people back home are getting some nice gifts too.

We made a quick stop off at Lake Manyara National Park. Normally the safari sightings here are always exciting, but sadly that was not the case today. It’s been incredibly wet this year and most of the drivable roads have been either flooded or completely washed out.
It was expedited to say the least.

The team has returned to our original lodge and are packed up headed for the airport.
Your loved ones should be home soon!

Thanks for following,

RMI Guide Casey Grom & Crew

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Mt. Rainier: July 24th - Teams on the Summit!

The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Mike Walter and the Four Day – All Women’s Climb led by Melissa Arnot reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Today’s climb marked Melissa’s 100th summit of Mt. Rainier! The teams began their descent from the crater rim just before 7 am. Clear skies and beautiful sunshine. They will return to Camp Muir for a short break and then continue to Paradise this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
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Yeah!  Hope it was a blast - we’re proud of you!

Posted by: Lila Blandford on 7/24/2013 at 7:51 am


Mt. Rainier: August 17th Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Jake Beren reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. Jake reported moderate winds, warm temperatures and hazy skies. The team enjoyed some time on the summit and started their descent to Camp Muir at about 7:42 am. Congratulations to today's teams!
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So proud of you Monica & Trevor.
It was so much fun being on the mountain to see you train, watch you head up & greet you when you came down.

Posted by: Mom on 8/17/2012 at 4:53 pm

Congratulations, Monica and Trevor. We are so proud of you and your climbing team. Can’t wait to hear all about the trip and see some pictures. Carol and Don

Posted by: Carol Roblan on 8/17/2012 at 3:19 pm


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Team Makes First Acclimatization Hike

Hello this is Jake Beren with the RMI Mexico's Volcanoes Team. We are down in La Malintze which is just to the east of Mexico City where we did our first acclimatization hike on La Malinche today. Everyone did very well and we got up to just under 14,000' with good weather and came back down to a big meal and tomorrow we will head in the way of Ixta by way of Amecameca and a big breakfast. So, all is well here and we will check in tomorrow. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in after the team's first acclimatization hike.

On The Map

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Kilimanjaro: Tree Climbing Lions on Safari!

Hello from Plantation Lodge, Today we had to say good bye again to the wonderful Dik Dik Hotel and headed out on our safari. First stop on the safari circuit was Lake Manyara National Park. It's not talked about as much as some other parks in Tanzania, but it has a lot of game viewing and is the perfect introduction to safari. I have heard for many years that this park is most well known for the tree climbing lions, and after many trips without ever seeing one, I was beginning to think that this was all made up. To my surprise, this would be the day that we saw not just one, but six tree climbing lions. The lions will climb the trees to seek refuge from the hot afternoon sun and they are really hard to spot because only a leg or a tail will be hanging down from the tree branch. It had been over two years since our driver had seen one, so we were definitely lucky. The entire park sits right below the Great Rift Wall, and as we continued to tour around the park, we saw lots of elephants, impalas, hippos, zebras, wildebeest, and giraffes. We left the park feeling very good about the day's sightings. Tomorrow is Ngorongoro Crater with its 25,000 resident animals. It going to be a big day and people are excited to see this natural wonder. RMI Guide Jeff Martin & Team Simba Sita
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Wow!  I can’t believe I saw Kims white legs on the last picture.  It is good that Kim is letting her hair down.  Way to go Bob and Kim.. Can’t wait to hear and see more when you get back!!

Posted by: Bradley Hegman on 2/23/2012 at 9:42 am

Lucky!  I had stopped believing in them.  Nice one team.

Posted by: Seth on 2/21/2012 at 1:58 pm

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