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Cotopaxi Express: Whittaker & Team Acclimate on Rucu Pichincha

And boom. We went to over 14,000' today. To be honest, gondola-assisted, but we still logged a few thousand human-powered vert. Warm sun, mild temps, and a calm, steady breeze from the east kept things comfortable. Clouds slowly built throughout the day as we ascended, but never threatened anything more than the occasional chilly gust. The bright orange Chuquiragua flowers, also known as the “the flower of the climber” that grows at over 9,000 feet, were in bloom along the trail and grew thicker as we ascended. We’ll take it as a good omen! Satisfied with our solid effort, we snacked and took in the panoramic views of Quito over 5,000’ below us from our perch on the flanks of Pichincha before heading back downhill. Our team is strong and deposited valuable funds into the Cotopaxi acclimatization account today. More to come tomorrow as we venture further south through the Avenue of the Volcanoes! RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews and Team
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Peru Seminar: Davis, Lyddan and Team Checking In from Ishinca Base Camp

July 11, 2022 - Huaraz to BC: The team loaded up the bus from the hotel this morning and after about an hour through pleasantly rough and rocky roads arrived at Pashpa. Here we loaded up our burros with duffels, food, climbing gear, and base camp infrastructure then promptly began our 4-hour trek up the Ishinca Valley. Through high grassy knolls, green forests, and boulder fields leftover from glaciers many millennia ago, we reached our basecamp at just over 14,000.’ Ishinca Base Camp is quite the spot. Surrounded by steep rocky walls with the mighty Tocllaraju sitting in front as a majestic skyline at just under 6,000m (19,797ft).

After we got our tents set up and moved in, we enjoyed a delicious meal of fresh caught trout and potatoes, prepared by our wonderful camp cook Emilio and his assistant Romel. With tired eyes and full bellies, we happily crawled into our sleeping bags and drifted off to the sound of babbling glacial stream

July 12, 2022 - BC Training Day: Today we slept in and let the warmth of the sun wake us up. After a breakfast of omelets, we began working on some rope skills and practice with knots and hitches. We took advantage of good weather and did another acclimatization hike after lunch up the moraine to Laguna Milluacocha. Along the way we saw views of Ranrapalca and our objective Urus Este. We were welcomed back with some afternoon tea and popcorn. Not a bad day living at 14,000’

July 13, 2022 - Snow School: We left basecamp early this morning to head up 2,000’ to the toe of the Ishinca glacier to get some more acclimatization in before we attempt our summit bid of Ishinca tomorrow. There we practiced cramponing, roped travel, anchor building, and crevasse rescue at 16,000’.  It was back to basecamp for an afternoon of rest and an early dinner of Lomo Saltado before bed. Tomorrow (tonight will come early) …

RMI Guides Alan Davis, Emma Lyddan & Team

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Mt. Rainier: Whittaker, McGowan and Teams Reach the Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb July 10 - 13 teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker and Hannah McGowan. Peter reported winds around 20 mph and cool temperatures. The teams were able to enjoy the views from the summit with clear skies above and below. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
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Way to go boys! Well done. Cant wait for the stories! #HillBilliesproud

Posted by: Bill price on 7/13/2018 at 9:42 pm


Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team Sets up Camp 3, South Col Carry is Next

Today our Sherpa team secured prime real estate at Camp 3. The super Sherpa chopped away ice for a nice flat platform and supplied, but did not set up the tent. It is best to wait till the day the team is ready to use the tent; otherwise, the elements may damage or blow the unoccupied tent away. Sherpa plan to carry loads to the South Col tomorrow; these guys are tough. The climbing team is getting some exercise around Basecamp by day hiking, golfing, and playing horseshoes. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Good luck on your summit push.  Your Sherpas and your entire team are heroes, very brave.  Blessings for a safe summit. 

ABQ Uptown #985 NM/AZ/CO

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/7/2013 at 3:49 pm

Good luck to your team.  Hoping you can summit.

Posted by: Kevin on 5/7/2013 at 10:16 am


Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team take walk towards summit

Well, we're still here at 17,200', day 7 up here and no summit in sight. In my 22 years of doing this I've never stayed here over seven days. I guess there's a first for everything. But the team is still strong and committed to tagging the summit despite our little weather delays. And it's still only day 17 for us, so we're still well within our time frame for these trip. This morning was nasty, so we relaxed in our tents until 11:00am and had the brunch that has become all too familiar these days. At that time the wind and snow abated somewhat and I entertained for the first time doing an evening climb of sorts. With a bit of a cloud cap over the summit conditions were not ideal, but we had been having some rather consistent clearing in the afternoon and evenings, and with daylight throughout the evening, late starts are not unheard of. So, we set out for the summit knowing full well that if we encountered worsening weather we'd simply turn back. The important thing for us was to get in some walking to maintain out strength, acclimatization, and mental health. The route that we had punched in the day before was gone, so we had to plow through 1-2' of snow to establish the route. Luckily the snow was quite stable and allowed us to reach almost 18,000' before I made the tough call to turn back in the face of some increasing winds and certainly not improving conditions. But, we had reestablished the route and gotten in a little exercise. And everyone had climbed well! We'll be ready when the weather gods finally allow us to climb. Back at camp over dinner we discussed just how long we might stay here at 17,200' waiting for our opportunity. Wednesday seemed like a date that would be reasonable to make our last day here. We have food and fuel to go beyond then, but for those of you wondering when your loved one will be coming back, I would say a few days after that would be reasonable. That being said, we do have some on the team that are willing to stay on beyond then. And for them, I guess I'd have to say that I too would be willing to stick around. But... Let's not go there quite yet. Kristen would like to wish Billy a happy birthday. And Gary would like to send Angela hugs and kisses from 17,200' camp. All for now. Thanks for reading our dispatches! RMI Guides Brent, Leon , Lindsay and the rest of the team

On The Map

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Kristin,  We are rooting for all of you !...keep us posted…..safe travels…..Debbie, Rich, Sean and Jen

Posted by: Debbie Collins on 6/11/2012 at 10:56 am

Brent and Kristen, keep it up!  You’re being thought of by many down here at sea level.

Posted by: Bob Maher on 6/10/2012 at 8:13 pm


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team at Camp 1 on Summit Push

Hello! We are at C1. A long day brought us here under clear skies. We're alone here and we presume it will be the same at C2 when we arrive later today. Not much to report other than we had an incredible sunset last night, perched here on Ama Dablam's ridge. Let's keep hoping for the winds to die in the next day or two! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Mt. Rainier: Champion & Team Reach Summit

The Four Day Climb July 16 - 19 led by RMI Guides Nikki Champion, Michael Murray and Bo Torrey reached the crater rim around 7 am today.  They took six hours to climb from Camp Muir to the summit and reported calm winds and clear skies.  As of 8 am they were on their descent returning to Camp Muir and then continuing the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.  They will conclude their program this afternoon with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Congratulations climbers! Way to go Christopher!

Posted by: Jane Green on 7/19/2022 at 3:44 pm


Mt. Rainier: Teams Summit!

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Taylor Bickford and Joe Hoch, reached the summit!  They reported nice route conditions but windy and cold temps this morning.  The teams are currently on their descent back to Camp Muir and we look forward to congratulating them this afternoon.

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My son climbed today with this group.  So proud that he fullfilled one of his dreams.  Great job see you this afternoon!! Dad and I love you.  Thanks to the great leadership for the team.

Posted by: Nancy Hanson on 6/19/2021 at 5:46 am

Congrats!  Say hi to Lindsay Boo Kibler .

Posted by: Steve Kibler on 6/18/2021 at 2:52 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Resting at Base Camp

A hot shower... Cotton clothes... Chairs with backs... An appetite... Easy temperatures... Brain temporarily free of Icefall fixation... Must be rest day #1. Still decompressing from the last week on high and not yet laser-focused on the coming week, which will be higher still. I am tempted to call the past week a good one, since we each came down healthy and with some clarity and confidence as to what will be next, but to be honest, it was a tough week in several ways. While things went as planned for Sara, in that she got stronger and more acclimated with each day of the past rotation, that wasn't the case for her Dad. Bill, although strong and fit, was hitting some sort of personal limit in living at Advanced Basecamp and venturing to around 22,000 ft. Ultimately, we chose to get Sara the experience she needed on the Lhotse Face while her Dad stayed below. We knew eventually that we'd need to reformulate a plan for going ahead with the expedition. Sara did climb well and strong with me to 23,000 ft a few days back. She didn't seem particularly fazed by the massive exposure and steep angles. She did a good job dealing with the distraction of other climbers (mostly Sherpas going fast up or fast down) needing to pass on the fixed ropes and a single set of steps chiseled in the ice. She didn't seem any more bothered than I was by the novelty of two helicopters hovering a few hundred meters away on some rumored film project. Sara kept concentrating on clipping her safety gear past anchors and on setting her crampons securely and on breathing steadily with each new step even though she knew a medical emergency had taken a man's life just the day before on these same ropes and in these same footsteps. Many of the Sherpas and guides we met and spoke with had some involvement in trying to mitigate the sad circumstances of the day before and it was impossible to be so high on the world's fourth highest mountain without dealing with some heavy and sad thoughts on mortality. This was balanced by the incredible beauty and expanding horizons we were granted as we climbed higher... Everest, our next door neighbor for now, just kept getting more magnificent... Until it developed a bad case of snowclouds, as did Lhotse. Although we were in view of the first tents of Camp 3, which would have made a fine goal for the day, it seemed best to turn and get a little experience descending the steep face with a little less snowfall and associated sluffs streaming down the face. At our highpoint, I pulled my GPS from a pocket and we established that Sara had just crushed her previous altitude record from her climb of Aconcagua several years back. We "arm rappelled" back down the face and tiptoed on crampon points to get across the steep bergschrund at it's base. Then on easy angled glacier again, we made excellent time down to where Bill and Linden had come out to meet us above ABC. Yesterday morning we dodged a few more snow squalls and dodgy snow bridges and we even spied a spectacular avalanche off the side of Nuptse during our journey from ABC to Everest Base Camp. It all seemed eventful and a little crazy and excessive, to be honest. Lam Babu and Uberaj joined us for the walk to Base Camp and Kaji and Dawa went all the way up to ABC with heavy loads and still caught us before we exited the Khumbu Ice fall on the way down. Tcherring and Tuck were in camp to greet us with smiles and handshakes and... even better, Kumar greeted us with lunch. We were tired but quite happy to be down. Today, we sat together and developed that new game plan for the coming weeks. Bill won't climb up with us on these next rounds... he won't go for the summit and Sara will. It isn't what we wanted going into this expedition, but it seems like the smart plan under the circumstances. Bill will write of his thoughts on the matter in coming days. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Bill, Sara and team, This is the verse that popped out at me when thinking of you and your team.  Ephesians 2:10 We are his creation, created in Christ Jesus for good works which God prepared ahead of time so that we should walk in them.  What an amazing walk you are having.  What a comfort to know all was planned, and who better to walk with?  Praying for you, and enjoying reading and seeing all that you are doing.  Janet Kresser

Posted by: Janet Kresser on 5/5/2011 at 7:37 am

We are a class of 5th graders in Taos that have been following the blogs as part of a social studies project. This new development made a really big impact on them when it was decided that Sara would go for the summit if possible, but that Bill would not.

Here are some thoughts that the students wanted me to try to share with Sara (their new hero) and Bill, and of course, Dave. As usual, the teacher disavows any knowledge of what might come out of her students’ mouths at any given moment…
- It’s good that he’s staying down because if he got hurt it could jeopardize everyone.
- It’s pretty brave of Sara to keep going without her dad. I hope they make it!
- I think that Sara is really strong and is doing her best. She’s always smiling in her pictures!
- It’s good that he’s not going, so now Sara doesn’t have to worry about her dad getting hurt.
- It isn’t worth the risk if he isn’t feeling up to it.
- Sara needs her dad on AND off the mountain. I am glad he’s staying safe.
- Even if he doesn’t go, I’m glad Sara’s going to try.
- Sara’s the awesomest climber in the world (except for Dave Hahn and a bunch of other old(er) people)!
- I think Bill is the bravest dad I have ever heard of. First of all, he’s up on Everest, which not a lotta people do. Then, he trusts his daughter and is there supporting her even if he can’t go himself. I think that’s very brave and I hope my dad would do the same for me to help me accomplish something I wanted to do.

Bottom line: Sara, you have a pint-sized fan club here in Taos cheering for you; Bill, I think they are ready to give you a “coolest dad on the planet” medal, and Dave, all of us send love and best wishes from home.

Posted by: Ms. E's Class on 5/5/2011 at 7:30 am


Mt. Rainier: Team Reaches Summit!

The Four Day Climb Led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Brent reported clear skies above and a great climbing route.

Congratulations team! 

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That was Kristian Whittaker’s 25th Birthday - climb.  How cool he summited with his sister, Gabriella and her boyfriend Leif.  I, Erika, was so fortunate to meet up with the kids at Camp Muir and walk back to Paradise with them and with Brent Okita and my good friend, Anne M.  So grateful for this day back on Mt. Rainier with both my kids. :).  Sorry I didn’t get to see any of the RMI office staff when I was at Basecamp.  Maybe next time.

Posted by: Erika Whittaker on 11/17/2022 at 9:36 pm

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