Well folks, a lot has happened over the last 48 hours and I'm sorry to have been keeping you waiting. June 1, we woke up to somewhat clearing skies at 14,000' Camp and decided to pack up and get as far downhill as we could. Aside from an interesting GPS guided tour through an area known as the "Polo Field" the weather held out and we made it all the way back to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier where we began our trip. We arrived just before midnight and quickly set up our tents, had a quick dinner and went to sleep with dreams of flying out the next morning. Well those dreams came true. This morning we woke to the sound of camp bustling with life when clear skies and the sound of basecamp manager Lisa's voice booming through the early morning with warnings that we should start getting ready to fly off. A few hours later we were in the sky heading towards Talkeetna. The trip has finally come to an end. It's been a fantastic three weeks here in the great Alaska Range and its bittersweet to see it end. We'll meet up for one last team dinner tonight before going our separate ways tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for following along. It's been a wild ride!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Uchal and Five Day Summit Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier after a 6 1/2 hour ascent. Mike Uchal reports sunny, beautiful weather and a busy route. The teams are en route back to Camp Muir, and will be back at RMI Basecamp later today.
Congratulations to today's teams!
That mountain looks soooo big from my easy chair on the patio where I lounge thinking about all of you, up on top. I can only imagine the sense of accomplishment. You guys are amazing! Welcome back, and can’t wait to hear stories.
Posted by: maryann on 7/21/2013 at 8:17 pm
I am so excited that you all made it! Each of you has been constantly on my mind the last several days! I am envious, but so proud of what you all have accomplished! Welcome home when you get there! Your admirer, Mr. T
After making our way from 17 camp to 14 camp, we crawled back into our tents and took a nap. Around 10pm, we woke up for either a late dinner or early breakfast of Ramen noodles and began packing up camp for what we thought would be the very last time. While we had walked into 14 camp in a whiteout, during our nap the clouds had settled below us and it had become a beautiful brisk night.
With camp packed up, we headed towards Basecamp and the airstrip. While we arrived in decent weather, we got word that clouds kept the planes from flying all day. We've now crawled back into our tents and await a weather window that allows us to fly back to Talkeetna.
Sorry to hear about the bad weather at the end of the trip. The good news is that the mountain has been conquered and that you are all at base camp. Hoping a weather window opens soon. Well done everyone.
This day had auspicious written all over it. Our Sirdar Lam Babu consulted the Tibetan calendar and made a few calls. This was the day for our Puja ceremony. A lama was brought up from Pangboche and our Puja alter was made ready. Today was the day for the entire team to get together for a Buddhist ceremony asking the gods to look favorably on our expedition. The Pangboche lama was actually pretty busy as several other teams were similarly in need of blessing. The drums started beating and the cymbals started clashing for ours just after lunch on another big blue sky day. A number of Sherpas from neighboring teams joined us in our celebration. There were chants and prayers and various offerings of juniper smoke, food and drink. There were a number of things tossed into the sky and onto each other, principally rice and tsampa (barley flour) and a little chiang -a lightly fermented homemade rice wine with bits of orange. The climax of the ceremony begins with the Puja mast going up with strings of brightly colored prayer flags going out in all directions from it. Finally we all stand and toast each other, shake hands and ask each other to be careful on this climbing trip.
The birds certainly enjoy the day as a whole flock of black Himalayan Chuffs (a little smaller than a crow) descend to get the spare offerings. We also enjoyed watching smaller sparrow and finch types joining in the festivities.
Most retired to the tents for a post puja nap for the remainder of the afternoon. Tomorrow we will put the spikes on and go for a walk on the glacier. Slowly but surely, out bodies are catching up to this altitude and soon we'll be ready for some hard climbing.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
James, I look forward to your triumphant summit. The mountain will let you know if she is ready. I know you are. I wish I could be there to support you as you have supported and encouraged me on climbs in the past. Cheers my friend !!!
Congratulations to RMI Guide Dave Hahn and the Big City Mountaineers’ Summit for Someone team that reached the Mt. Rainier summit! With good weather and route conditions, Dave and his team spent some time on top before starting their descent at 9:45 a.m. They are working their way back to Camp Muir and will finish their celebration of today's accomplishments at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
Congrats on the climb. D.H. you’re the energizer bunny of climbing. I can still see the poster of Everest you had in your dorm room and you saying it was a goal of yours. Few get to realize a dream, and that goes for the whole team. Somewhere out there you are inspiring someone. Don’t stop doing what you love.
RMI Guides Lindsay Mann and Pete Van Deventer recently met up in Frisco, Colorado, for the AIARE Level I Avalanche Instructor Training Course. AIARE (American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education) is the main course provider for avalanche courses and training in the United States. For three days Lindsay and Pete along with 16 other future instructors discussed current avalanche knowledge, curriculum material, and teaching techniques. Classroom time was balanced by field sessions, ski touring the very accessible terrain around Vail Pass. While the snowpack so far this year is relatively uninteresting from an avalanche perspective, the opportunity to trade ideas with 16 other peers and watch each other in the field was a great experience for both Lindsay and Pete. Many thanks to First Ascent and RMI for providing a Guide Grant to aid Lindsay and Pete in moving into an avalanche education instructor role. Look for Pete and Lindsay ski touring around the Aspen, Colorado, area when they are not guiding trips on Rainier, Alaska, and beyond for RMI.
This is Seth checking in from the summit of Kilimanjaro (19,340 feet). Everyone in our group has reached the top! The weather has been spectacular all day. We watched the sunrise from the crater rim and have been enjoying the warmth. It's all down hill from here!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Seth Waterfall checking in from the Roof of Africa.
The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climb led by Pete Van Deventer radioed from the summit at 7:20 a.m. They crested the summit just before 7 a.m. with clear blue skies and calm winds in the crater. It's a gorgeous day on Mt. Rainier! After spending some time enjoying the magnificent views, the teams will begin their descent back to Paradise.
Seth Waterfall and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team checked in from Camp Schurman. The entire team reached the summit yesterday. They spent almost the entire previous night battling a tough storm, but the team managed to overcome the challenge and enjoyed a beautiful climb of the Emmons Glacier. Today they will descend down the White River valley for the final leg of their trip.
Congratulations RMI teams!
After a hard day fighting the wind up high yesterday, we were able to get back to camp and rest and hydrate. Good thing, because this morning dawned perfect and we rallied for another attempt at pushing to high camp. The weather remained perfect all day and our well-acclimated crew made it to High Camp in five hours flat. We arrived at 2pm and spent a few hours building camp and the focused on resting, hydrating, and eating.
The weather forecast is very favorable and we're optimistic that we'll try for the top tomorrow. Fingers crossed, and if things go well, I'll hopefully be able to send a quick satellite message from the top. Now for some sleep before a big day. Either way, I'll check in and let you know what the weather throws at us.
What a proud day for our team! This morning we woke long before the sun came up and proceeded to hide from the bitter cold until a much more sensible option presented itself. All the teams left camp early turned back to protect their extremities while we enjoyed the rising sun and long summer day as we made our bid for the top. Don't get us wrong, it was a cold day but everyone managed quite well and is happy and healthy back at camp.
Aconcagua was most gracious to our team today, but boy did we have to earn it. The light snow winter has left the mountain nearly bare of snow and we did not even use crampons today. Scrambling up loose rock at just under 23,000 feet is a real treat and the team rose to the challenge, huffing and puffing all the way to the roof of the Andes.
All in all a great day with a stellar team. I'm certainly grateful to have gotten to share a beautiful day in the mountains with a great crew of climbers. Those of us that stood on top could not have done it without our team and though not every member shared the view today, they were all with us every step of the way.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
[Summit audio transcription]
Hello. This is Jake Beren calling from the highest point in South America, the top of Aconcagua with a real strong team. Had a great summit day, perfect weather. We're up here with visibility in just about every direction. So, definitely proud of a real solid team and a real solid effort and we're halfway done. So we will give you a shout when we get to our camp. Thanks for all the weather help and we look forward to seeing everybody when we get back. Alright.
RMI Guide Jake Beren calls in from the Aconcagua summit!
That mountain looks soooo big from my easy chair on the patio where I lounge thinking about all of you, up on top. I can only imagine the sense of accomplishment. You guys are amazing! Welcome back, and can’t wait to hear stories.
Posted by: maryann on 7/21/2013 at 8:17 pm
I am so excited that you all made it! Each of you has been constantly on my mind the last several days! I am envious, but so proud of what you all have accomplished! Welcome home when you get there! Your admirer, Mr. T
Posted by: Thom D. on 7/21/2013 at 4:03 pm
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