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Aconcagua Expedition: Back at High Camp After Successful Summit

"You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows. . . " After nearly two weeks of hard work here in the Andes, our team stood on top of the tallest mountain in either North or South America! Congratulations on a job well done. We had to earn it today, climbing through the chilly pre-dawn winds into a whiteout summit. Occasionally the surrounding peaks popped out, only to retreat behind an opaque veil that became our visual reality as we ascended the Canaleta to the summit. A fine day in the mountains nonetheless and everyone should be proud of a tough, safe and successful climb. Tomorrow we start the long voyage back to Mendoza, retracing the steps taken a few weeks ago back to civilization. Thanks for all the support from the homeland and we'll be seeing you soon. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

KATIE AND ADAM—Way to go! Have safe and beautiful.trip back to us.
Nancy

Posted by: Nancy Slocumcoals on 1/2/2012 at 6:42 pm

Trevor, congratulations on your speedy climb!!!  Was that record time or what???  We all can’t wait to hear about your adventure!
Love:  Heidi, Steve & the kids

Posted by: Heidi on 12/30/2011 at 3:44 pm


Shishapangma: RMI Guides Arrive in Tibet

We are in Nyalam, our last stop before the Chinese Base Camp. The drive through Nepal to the border with Tibet went pretty well and the border crossing itself was smooth. We bypassed the town of Zangmu straight to Nyalam. This afternoon we will head for a hike to stretch the legs after the trip and start the acclimatization process. We have a scheduled departure for Chinese Base Camp for tomorrow around noon. The team is in really good spirits and looking forward to putting a foot on the mountain. Regards from Tibet, RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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SAHALE MOUNTAIN: Van Deventer and Team Check In

We opted to go for the summit today ahead of expected precip tomorrow. We called our high point a bit above the saddle. There is a large cornice along the summit ridge and loose, wet snow that was unstable. There is a lot of snow in Boston basin still, no rock to be seen along the summit ridge.

Our plan is to descend tomorrow am, one day early.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Denali Expedition: Smith and Team Walk to the Edge of the World, Prep for Move to 17k

Wednesday June 22nd - 5:34pm PT

To the edge and back. Not a lot of excitement today, given it was a rest day.

Breakfast burritos started our day and led into a walk to the Edge of the World. The Edge of the World is a cool rock feature one can stand on, a lot like pride rock on Lion King but this one had a relief of 7,000 feet. The view will give you chills from the beauty and the sheer height of it. The walk is short but is nice to stretch the legs. Our legs are about to have a handful of large days coming their way. More napping and snacking have wrapped our day, along with a visit from another RMI team who did their carry to 14k camp.

Tomorrow we are hoping to move to 17k camp and be in position to summit this beast. It's all so close and yet, so far away. Send all the good weather vibes our way.

All the best,

Hannah and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yvonne and Nathan, I hope you all stay safe and strong. When you summit make sure to take in the view an extra few seconds for Rainier. Good luck, I love you both and I can’t wait to see you home in two weeks

Posted by: Linda Radsmikham on 6/23/2022 at 8:21 pm

Nathan and Yvonne, Rainier is cheering you guys and the team on so make sure you all stay safe. Btw, Mom is obsessed with reading the updates

Posted by: Kyle on 6/23/2022 at 8:15 pm


Mt. Rainier: Paradise Seminar Concludes with Beautiful Summit Day

RMI Guide Jack Delaney led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise July 14 - 19.  The team met last Thursday for their orientation and gear check.  The next morning they went straight to the mountain.  Their first camps were above Paradise and they used the terrain for training, getting everyone up to speed on cramponing, glacier travel and ice axe arrest skills.  Additional training took place as the group slowly ascended over the next few days.  Yesterday the team made the jump to Camp Muir.  After dinner and discussion about the climb ahead they crawled into sleeping bags for a few hours of rest.  With an alpine start the team left Camp Muir, they reached the summit after 6 hours of climbing, approaching the crater rim around 7 am.  After enjoying the views and photo ops from the summit the team is returning to Camp Muir.  Once back at Camp they will pack up and continue the final 4.5 miles back to Paradise.  Their program concludes today with a celebration once they return to Rainier BaseCamp.

Nice work team!  We hope you enjoyed your time on the mountain!

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RMI Guides Kel Rossiter & Geoff Schellens Discuss the AMGA Rock Guide Exam

“UNLEASH THE BEAST!” That was the battle cry for RMI guide Geoff Schellens and I (Kel Rossiter) as we explored Red Rocks Canyon (Nevada) in preparation for the AMGA Rock Guide Exam in April. It seems that a few years back a friend of Geoff’s was climbing way above his last piece of rock protection and his belayer called up to him “Place a piece!” The fellow climbing heard the command as “Unleash the beast!” let out a yell, placed a piece, and successfully powered for the top. Throughout the course of our two weeks of training and the six-day exam in Red Rocks, Nevada, Geoff and I both placed lots of rock protection pieces and certainly unleashed the beast! Familiarity with terrain is a useful advantage when guiding, so Geoff & I met up in late March to get oriented to the amazing range of climbing options and areas that Red Rocks offers and to hone our rock guiding skills in that terrain. It was a lot of hard work and it was a great experience. We’d done the same thing last year, prepping for the Rock Guide Course (the second level of the AMGA Rock program) and that was a great opportunity for me to work with another talented RMI guide toward a shared climbing objective. This year was similar, but different—we definitely enjoyed the climbing and good times together, but we were also definitely focused on the rigorous exam ahead. Often, when people are a bit anxious about something they get a “tunnel vision” that causes them to overlook the big picture; fortunately, throughout the course of the prep and exam process the beauty of Red Rocks provided Geoff and I with many moments that prompted us to keep perspective and remember the big picture. On our first day of climbing, we headed out toward the Oak Creek area. Along the way we came across a boulder upon which someone had placed the majestic skull of a sun-bleached, full-curl desert bighorn sheep. Nothing like majesty and mortality to remind one to enjoy each moment! A few days later in White Rock Springs we encountered an entire herd of full-curl bighorns; their agility on the rock seemed to mock our efforts. On the exam, with a winter weather front coming in on high winds, I was topping out on the final pitch of a climb up the “Mescalito” and found a butterfly gently moving its wings in the shelter of the wide crack I was climbing. On another day, descending from the summit of Rainbow Mountain we entered into an astounding sinewy canyon of perfect sandstone baths and gigantic ponderosa trees rooted in the moist vein of desert soil. Moving through the anxieties and unknowns of the exam process, these moments helped to frame things in perspective indeed. By the time the exam arrived, Geoff and I felt ready. In six short days the exam was over. It’ll be a week or so until we get the final marks from the exam, but regardless of outcome each of us feel positive about the entire event. It was a pleasure to connect with a fellow RMI guide and to work together toward this shared climbing goal. We’re thankful for the learning the course offered, the good times we had together climbing, the wonderful nature of Red Rocks that we enjoyed, and the support of the RMI/Eddie Bauer guide grant in a making all of possible for us—and we look forward to sharing the skills we honed there with RMI clients on many a future cliff and summit, “unleashing the beast!” RMI Guide Kel Rossiter
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Aconcagua Expedition: Carry to Camp 2

Today we carried up to Camp 2 to make a cache. The wind was a constant presence, but we managed to get up to camp in good style and enjoyed the different views as we climbed to new heights. Whispy clouds aloft slowly built throughout the day and we are keeping our fingers crossed for some decent weather to head our way, but we are prepared to outchill the storm if need be. Over dinner tonight we read everyone's responses to the dispatches. Thanks everyone, they were certainly a hit. We miss you all and can't wait to share the adventure when we return. Finally, from the tent and minds of 2 Richs and a Trevor comes a poem. Twas the night before Christmas and all through the Andes, not a creature was stirring, not even the Spaniard. Team RMI lay in bags way up high, Hoping to delay peeing until dawn's early light When out of the sky came a horrible roar, And one more wind blast made us all hit the floor. For almost 2 weeks we have not seen a tree, Or even a plant a Guanaco might eat. Our time is spent sleeping on boulder-strewn scree, Or climbing steep slopes that grind on our knee. The air is so thin that it jumbles our thoughts, and after some pitches we only see spots. And yet on this day our thoughts turn to home and all of the loved ones that we've left alone. So for this reason we send our love from above and say we can't wait to see you when our climb is all done So we close with the words that we hear everyday from Jake, Elias, and Geoff who show us the way. On Adam, on Katie, on Dave, and on Kim, on Eric, on Craig, on Trevor, and Rich (and Rich) Merry christmas and happy holidays! And to all a good night! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Merry Christmas Kim! It’s really warm here and feels more like fall than winter.  Have a great day, even if your just sitting a tent ;)

Posted by: Shaun on 12/25/2011 at 9:31 am

Hi Geoff
May your days be merry and bright.
Always thinking of you,
love Stephanie

Posted by: Stephanie Hampton on 12/25/2011 at 9:30 am


Mt. Rainier: Avalanche Concerns Keep Teams at Camp Muir

Avalanche concerns kept our Four-Day teams, led by Mike King and Grayson Swingle, from leaving Camp Muir yesterday. With the recent spring storms comes lots of fresh snow and greater risk for slides.

Despite the loaded snowpack, teams enjoyed a beautiful, clear day for their breakfast and descent back to Rainier Basecamp yesterday afternoon.

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Mt. Rainier: July 19th Summits!

The Four Day Summit Climbs for July 16 - 19 reached the summit today. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Gabriel Barral reported clear skies and moderate winds on the summit this morning. RMI Guide Billy Nugent led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz to the summit also. The team will descend back to their high camp for a final night on the mountain. In the North Cascades, RMI Guide Eric Frank and team reached the summit of Forbidden Peak yesterday. The team is making their final descending today and returning to the trail head. Near by, RMI Guide Jake Beren and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the SE Ridge. Congratulations to today's summit teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats to the Davis quad! Any way you can just slide back down - enjoy!

Posted by: Deborah on 7/19/2012 at 8:00 pm

Congratulations Erik, Bob, and Chadd!  Which mountain is next?!

Posted by: Lolo and Lola on 7/19/2012 at 3:27 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion and Team Enjoy a Rest Day

Wednesday, June 1, 2022 6:08 pm PT

First full rest day in the books! We spent the morning sleeping in, and having a leisurely breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and bacon. The rest of the day was filled with napping, reading, and recovering.

Tomorrow, we plan to make the move to 14,000’ camp. So we've got to tidy up, and cache any trash, extra gear, and dirty socks we don't want to bring higher up the mountain.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

So glad to hear you all and your special cargo are making your way up that spectacular mountain.  Eat well, rest well and climb safely.
For the sports fans of the group, Celtics came back to beat the Warriors in game 1 last night; Nadal made it to the semis of the French Open, and the Avs are up 2-0 over the Oilers.

Posted by: T, B, H and G on 6/3/2022 at 5:36 am

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