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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Arrive Base camp

Greetings from Basecamp! Our team battled a bit of wind getting here, but here we are safe and sound. Our morning began with the more sensible members of the team riding mules across the Vacas River, while the rest of us "tough" (ie ridiculous) members waded across the icy stream. Once our icy feet had boots on, we hiked up the Relinchos Valley underneath a towering view of Aconcagua. It definitely looked windy up there, with spindrift ripping off the peak. Basecamp is somewhat better and after a good session of camp building in the elements, the team is ready for some well earned R&R. Tomorrow we rest and prepare ourselves for that break in the weather. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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CV & TP, merry christmas and good luck (don’t look down)... our thoughts are with you the whole lavado family…

Posted by: Lavado's on 12/26/2012 at 7:26 am

Kim and Scata families wish Dawn and the entire team an exciting climb. Keep warm and happy heart! —Mom—

Posted by: Hye Kim on 12/25/2012 at 5:00 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion and Team Enjoy a Rest Day

Wednesday, June 1, 2022 6:08 pm PT

First full rest day in the books! We spent the morning sleeping in, and having a leisurely breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and bacon. The rest of the day was filled with napping, reading, and recovering.

Tomorrow, we plan to make the move to 14,000’ camp. So we've got to tidy up, and cache any trash, extra gear, and dirty socks we don't want to bring higher up the mountain.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

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So glad to hear you all and your special cargo are making your way up that spectacular mountain.  Eat well, rest well and climb safely.
For the sports fans of the group, Celtics came back to beat the Warriors in game 1 last night; Nadal made it to the semis of the French Open, and the Avs are up 2-0 over the Oilers.

Posted by: T, B, H and G on 6/3/2022 at 5:36 am


Shishapangma: Group Returns to ABC

Hey All, This is a dispatch from the Shishapangma Team. We are all back to Advanced Basecamp and everyone is doing very well. Jake, Elias, Bridget and myself reached the summit on the 11th, Leon reached the summit on the 12th. We are all back at ABC packing up and heading to Kathmandu on Monday the 17th. We will update you again soon. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
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Congratulations to you,  Jake,  and to the entire team!

Posted by: Hal H on 10/17/2011 at 11:20 am

Great news…congratulations to the whole team.  When you get back on this side of the planet post some pics for us low landers…

Posted by: John on 10/17/2011 at 10:22 am


Mt. Rainier: Haugen & Kautz Seminar Team Climb and Train, Reach 11,000’

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team have returned from the mountain.  The team spent three nights on the mountain and were able to do a lot of great training.  The reached 11,000' before deciding to turn around due to poor route conditions and high avalanche danger. The team descended to Paradise and is back at Rainier BaseCamp to celebrate their accomplishment and close down their program.

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Aconcagua Expedition: Carry to Camp 2

Today we carried up to Camp 2 to make a cache. The wind was a constant presence, but we managed to get up to camp in good style and enjoyed the different views as we climbed to new heights. Whispy clouds aloft slowly built throughout the day and we are keeping our fingers crossed for some decent weather to head our way, but we are prepared to outchill the storm if need be. Over dinner tonight we read everyone's responses to the dispatches. Thanks everyone, they were certainly a hit. We miss you all and can't wait to share the adventure when we return. Finally, from the tent and minds of 2 Richs and a Trevor comes a poem. Twas the night before Christmas and all through the Andes, not a creature was stirring, not even the Spaniard. Team RMI lay in bags way up high, Hoping to delay peeing until dawn's early light When out of the sky came a horrible roar, And one more wind blast made us all hit the floor. For almost 2 weeks we have not seen a tree, Or even a plant a Guanaco might eat. Our time is spent sleeping on boulder-strewn scree, Or climbing steep slopes that grind on our knee. The air is so thin that it jumbles our thoughts, and after some pitches we only see spots. And yet on this day our thoughts turn to home and all of the loved ones that we've left alone. So for this reason we send our love from above and say we can't wait to see you when our climb is all done So we close with the words that we hear everyday from Jake, Elias, and Geoff who show us the way. On Adam, on Katie, on Dave, and on Kim, on Eric, on Craig, on Trevor, and Rich (and Rich) Merry christmas and happy holidays! And to all a good night! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Merry Christmas Kim! It’s really warm here and feels more like fall than winter.  Have a great day, even if your just sitting a tent ;)

Posted by: Shaun on 12/25/2011 at 9:31 am

Hi Geoff
May your days be merry and bright.
Always thinking of you,
love Stephanie

Posted by: Stephanie Hampton on 12/25/2011 at 9:30 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Hahn, Waterfall & Team Spend First Night at Everest BC

Yesterday we walked without any great difficulty from Lobuche to Everest Basecamp. Conditions were perfect, with sunshine, blue sky and no wind whatsoever. We stopped for a brief rest in Gorak Shep where we were all grateful for 3G cell coverage again (Lobuche is lacking in this respect which is why we took a couple of nights off from blogging). But we didn't linger for very long in Gorak Shep because by then we were just a short distance from our home for the next seven weeks and we were excited to finish the trek. We walked a bit more along the lateral moraine before dropping onto the actual Khumbu Glacier. By then, the only thing difficult about the travel (apart from being over 17,000 ft) was walking while looking up at a couple dozen hanging glaciers and giant peaks. We were into our basecamp by midday and eating a great lunch in our dining tent 30 minutes later. It was great to catch up with our Sherpa team and mind boggling to see the work they've accomplished in two weeks. Kumar is our incomparable chef once again, assisted by Raju, Jetta and Tikaram. Our expert team of Sherpa guides is of course led by Lam Babu who did such a great job accompanying us on the trek. In the meantime, Chhering, Kaji and Geljen were moving a lot of rock around to build camp. We just had to move into well built and anchored tents, which was pretty easy. We were excited to watch a big avalanche off the Lho La -the pass above us which is the border with Tibet. And we were happy to spend an easy afternoon and evening getting settled. The night went well, with all seeming to be adjusting well to the altitude. Morning in such a place was just as awe inspiring as you'd expect. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Awe inspiring pictures Dave! Do y’all take altitude pills or does everyone just have great lungs?

Posted by: Mary on 4/6/2013 at 4:08 pm

Is this the James Fitch team?

Posted by: John Mack on 4/6/2013 at 1:54 pm


Alaska Seminar: Crevasse Training & Ice Climbing

The weather is forecasted to change around here in the following days but today was one of the hottest days we've had. Lenticular clouds continue to be impressive. We spent today playing inside crevasses and went ice climbing. Everyone had a blast. The glaciers are an enormous amount of ice up here in Alaska. Researchers currently on the glacier conducting some studies have found the depth of the Kahiltna Glacier to be about 500 meters deep. As we climbed on the walls of the crevasses peering down into the dark black hole beneath us, we felt small. So long from the Kahiltna. RMI Guide Jason Thompson

On The Map

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Training with Heart Rate Monitors

As you design a training plan to prepare for your next climb, data about your training and level of fitness is a really useful tool. One of the best ways to get an objective idea of your current level of fitness and to measure your gains is by tracking your heart rate with a heart rate monitor.

There are two main types of heart rate monitors available: watches that use an infrared sensor to your heart rate at your wrist and monitors that use a chest strap with two electrodes to record the electrical pulses from your heart. The infrared sensors on watches measure the change in the size of veins to record your heart beat, and can give a good rough idea of your heart rate trends. Movement of the watch on your wrist can interfere with the accuracy of the sensor however, so the normal movement that comes with training activities can mean that it doesn’t record your workout very effectively. The electrodes on a chest strap pick up the electrical signals from your heart very effectively despite any movement, and therefore and the best way to get a good picture of your workouts, and what we recommend.

Heart rate monitors are effective for a couple of different purposes. First and foremost, a heart rate monitor gives you the ability to track your training more accurately. Heart rate monitors use versions of the 5 training zones that most athletes utilize, so you can begin to build an accurate picture of how much time you spend in each zone and how effective a given period, week, or workout might have been for you.

A heart rate monitor also helps you to hit your target intensity zone for a given workout. This works in both directions; it can help you to tone it down on your long level 2 endurance training if you start to push a little hard, or it can let you know that you need to push even harder to make it to your target L4 zone on a set of intervals. One of the most helpful is setting an upper heart rate threshold alarm during your aerobic building workouts to warn you when you go too hard, which happens to most!

Tracking your heart rate over a period of time can also give you a picture of your overall fitness. As your training pays off, your resting heart rate should drop, and you will find yourself covering more ground and going faster, but at the same intensity. Conversely, a sudden spike in your resting heart rate may indicate that your training load is adding up and that you need to focus a bit more on recovery.

As an added bonus, most of the better heart rate monitors also have the ability to track your workout with GPS, so you can keep track of your training routes. A heart rate monitor won’t make you fitter, but it gives you invaluable information that allows you to create a more informed training plan.

_____

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

There are so many choices with heart rate monitors. Can you make a few recommendations? Thank you.

Posted by: Mike on 10/8/2023 at 9:17 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen and Team Cache Supplies at High Camp

Wednesday, June 27, 2019 - 9:55 PM PT Mission successful! We cached gear up at 17k high camp. The morning started out pretty warm (for 14,000 ft in AK). We made our way up to the fixed lines. For our first time up the fixed lines, the group did exceptionally well. We made our way up to the ridge at 16,000 ft and caught some wind. We decided to keep going up since everyone was staying warm and relatively comfortable. Although we never lost the wind, we made our way all the way up to high camp. I think our climbers were too distracted by the incredible climbing along the ridge to care about a bit of a breeze. We said hi to Mike Walter's team at 17k, cached our stuff, and then headed back down to our camp. After a 10 hour day, our climbers (and maybe guides) have earned a well deserved rest day tomorrow. We have been saving a breakfast burrito meal for such an occasion. Goodnight! RMI Team Siete
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job team!  Proud of you Meghan, ever the motivator in your words and actions!

Posted by: Jerry O'Quinn on 6/28/2019 at 12:04 am

You’re all a bunch of badasses!!

Posted by: Shannon Henn on 6/27/2019 at 10:33 pm


Aconcagua Expedition: Team arrives at Pampa de Lenas

Hi everybody, This is the Aconcagua team checking in from Pampa de Leñas camp. After a few days in Mendoza and Penitentes doing the hardest part of climbing a big mountain (getting the climbing permits, trying to get all the duffel bags that didn't make it to the airport with us, packing a ton of food and gear for the mules, etc), today we started the trek to Base Camp. The mountain welcomed us with a perfect blue sky day. We hiked for five and half hours today and got to our first camp on the Vacas Valley. Everybody did a great job and we are all feeling good. We are getting ready to sit down to dinner. Pete and Gilbert have cooked a gorgeous veggie pasta, almost as good as the amazing Argentinian steaks that we were eating since we arrived in Mendoza. That is all for today, cheers! RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and Team Aconcagua.

On The Map

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