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Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Saturday June 11, 2022 – 10:54pm PT
Hello bloganeers or whatever you call people who read blogs!
We went to bed with a nebulous forecast and thankfully awoke to optimistic looking skies! Looks like the weather would allow us to climb high and sleep low. We feasted upon a southern favorite, grits and pop tarts for breakfast. Then we racked up our gear and headed towards the fixed lines.
A couple hours of slow but steady walking and we arrived at the gaping maw that is the bergschrund at base of the fixed lines. The team locked and loaded and soon we were climbing up the steep snow and hard blue ice. Shouts of “This is awesome!” and “My fingers are cold,” were heard at various times during our ascent. Topping out the fixed lines rewarded us with beautiful views of the West Ridge of Denali and everyone and everything below us. We dug our cache, tossed in our excess gear and took a couple deep breaths of 16,000-foot air before beginning our descent.
Fleet feet and sturdy arm wraps meant a quick trip back to camp where a large meal of mac and cheese and cheesecake was enjoyed by all! Tomorrow, we let the winds up high blow while we gain strength and acclimate here at 14k camp.
Thanks for tuning in blogadors!
Posted by: Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mongolia
Posted by: Mike Walter, Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Great job to all!!!! Wally, ol’ pal, you simply amaze me. Way to go!!!!!
Gratz
Posted by: Gratz on 9/14/2012 at 2:29 pm
wally,
you are amazing!!! i can’t wait to hear all about it. onward and upward!
love, susie
Posted by: susan m miller on 9/14/2012 at 1:23 pm
Posted by: Eric Frank, Tyler Jones
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
On The Map
Reading your experience gives me confort because I know you’re being secure, and I envy the stunning views you have from that elevation. Bonne nuit Nicô!- Hélène
Posted by: Hélène Larocque-Nolin on 6/11/2012 at 7:06 pm
Thanks for the updates! Hopefully the weather will be in your favor in the days ahead! Michael stay warm and strong and I can’t wait to see the pictures from the edge of the world!!
Posted by: Scott on 6/11/2012 at 6:39 pm
Posted by: Billy Nugent
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Woo! Hoo! Hot damn and halleluiah! Congrats to the whole team. Michael - what a way to celebrate a Bday! and Bruce - yeesch! 13 pounds - holy smokes!
Enjoy celebrating and fattening up. See you when you safely return. ~Katherine
Posted by: Katherine on 2/18/2012 at 7:44 am
Congratulations! And thanks for letting us follow along. What a terrific climb.. Enjoy Mendoza. Party!
Posted by: Sharon Clarke on 2/17/2012 at 6:09 pm
Posted by: Billy Haas
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
- A great place to start improving your efficiency in the mountains begins with your equipment: what equipment are you using and does it work for you? Place a high priority on critical items such as boots and or packs, and worry less about items such as a fancy headlamp or spork. For me, a well-fit boot that is designed for the type of climbing I am doing is imperative. A good boot can mean the difference between a successful summit and a failed attempt; blisters and cold feet should never thwart a climber’s chance at the summit. In addition, find a climbing pack that carries weight well and fits you properly. Forget all the fancy features and pockets; a simple and minimalist pack that fits and carries weight well is what I look for. You might be able to get by with an old pack or a warm weather climbing boot, but why chance it? Having the right gear for the task makes for one less thing that could slow you down.
- Maintaining your gear makes a big difference too. I regularly spend a few hours taking care of small issues that have cropped up with my equipment to make sure that everything is going to work well when I need it to and not fail when it really counts. I trust my life to my equipment and so do others. For example, I frequently re-waterproof my gloves and Gore-Tex jackets. A headlamp is no good if your batteries run out, and a boot will not work as well if the laces snap. Not every piece of equipment needs to be new, but it does need to work properly. Climbing is too much fun to be hampered by equipment issues!
- With the right gear and everything dialed in, you need to pack it all up. As guides, we seem to have a magical ability to pack 50 liters of gear into a 30 liter pack, but what may seem to be magic is really just some good common sense. My favorite metaphor for packing is “brick and mortar.” Some of your items are going to be bricks (eg: sleeping bag in stuff sack) and some are going to be mortar (eg: puffy jacket). When packing, also consider multi-use items. A 1/2 liter nalgene makes for a great coffee mug and can also carry an extra 1/2 liter of water when you need it. You want to maximize space and value in your pack. Crampons don’t need a crampon case, since quite often wrapping them in your gaiters works just fine and saves space and weight. Putting some time and thought into a well-packed kit can often fit in a smaller pack. Smaller packs equal lighter packs, giving you a little more money in the bank.
- With packing complete, there are still a few more things you can do before a climb that will get you ahead. For me this starts with my nutrition and hydration. On Mt. Rainier, I’ve found that from the time I leave home in the morning to the time my team is hiking out of Paradise (approx. 1.5 hours), I can easily sip down a liter of water. Don’t chug water, but slowly sip a liter in the morning and on the bus ride to Paradise. This will help make sure that you are hydrated for the beginning of your climb. Pre-hydration, which can start as early as the night before, allows me to bring less water during a climb (less weight), and helps prevent dehydration. I can recover more quickly, and can focus on other aspects of the climb instead of staving off dehydration.
- With regards to nutrition, my best suggestion is to learn your own body. I know how much fuel my body needs at a high level of activity, which is less than some of my friends but definitely more than others. For two-day trips such as Mt. Rainer, I try to be as precise as I can with the amount of food I bring. Start by factoring around 200 calories per break and then adjust from there to your specific needs. In addition to that, bring foods you enjoy eating and can eat while exercising. I love pizza, but definitely wouldn’t want a slice in the middle of a climb. Remember; when we climb at altitude the effort is roughly similar to how our bodies feel during a slow jog. Focus on foods that hold a lot of caloric value. By bringing the right food and bring only the food you’ll need, you’ll save space and carry less weight.
- Lastly, be efficient with your time. When taking a break, maximize your time resting and recovering. Get your self-care chores done early and quickly so that you get as much time off of your feet as possible. This applies to getting to camp also. Take care of business first so that you spend a maximum amount of time recovering later. Use momentum to your advantage: we take short breaks so we do not lose our momentum, and when you roll into camp use that same momentum to set up and settle in before you are too tired to do the things you should have done. This might be setting up camp or dealing with a pesky blister; the sooner you get it done the sooner you can rest. Keep in mind that even if we feel great we still need to recover!
Billy Haas guides trips on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley, and abroad for RMI Expeditions. When not traveling to mountains around the world to climb or ski, Billy guides backcountry skiing and teaches avalanche courses in Salt Lake City, UT. Questions? Comments? What are your suggestions for staying efficient in the mountains? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
Posted by: Jake Beren, Ben Liken
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
On The Map
Happy Valentine’s Day, Dan and friends!! Love the updates, following y’all daily! Wishes for good weather, good health and happy hiking!
Posted by: Patsy on 2/14/2013 at 5:12 pm
Yes, Happy Valentines day to Dan and friends! Following you daily, love the updates! Wishing good weather and successful hiking!
Posted by: Patsy on 2/14/2013 at 5:08 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
On The Map
Mike M….Following your progress…...and rooting for you!! Wishing you clear skies, good weather and the most magnificant views!!
Posted by: Annette on 5/14/2012 at 11:55 am
Go Mike! Have a great climb. I saw the mountain this morning in the sun on my way to work. Looks awesome. Stay safe.
Posted by: Jeff on 5/14/2012 at 10:06 am
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,410'
Tuesday, June 22, 2021 - 11:22 pm PT
Hi,
Patience and more patience. Every day we look at the forecast and wonder how accurate will it be. Is the weather system going to happen or will it be nice out. Its a part of expedition life that is difficult. When do we move? Is this our time? Does it get better or worse? But no one truly knows. Its all in retrospect that we deliberate the decision and know the answer. So we wait. We wait for a forecast that is better than marginal. We have plenty of food and fuel to see if the winds will get better in the next handful of days. Patience is key. In due time it will be our moment, so we wait.
Good night,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Hector,
Fidel is excited to hear about your every elevation gain. He says “Dad, I really love you. I hope you be safe.”
Xoxo,
Anna
Posted by: Anna Haring on 6/23/2021 at 6:43 pm
WOW! Photos spectacular!
Thinking of you all the time on this terrific journey! So proud of the whole team!
Love you Beej!
Mom
Posted by: Judy collins on 6/23/2021 at 3:46 pm
Posted by: Casey Grom, Ben Liken, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations Casey, we saw in paradise on Saturday when they returned from their mountain school!
Posted by: Luis Carrasco on 6/12/2017 at 10:13 am
Well, I am definitely a bloganeer! Iook forward to reading this blog and staying up to date with you and your incredible teams progress. Thank you for sharing your journey with all of us. You guys are incredible and you impress all of us with your passion, persistence and endurance! Go team! A special shout out to Heather Hart and reminder that your CBJD Family is here cheering you on! We’ve you so much xoxo
Posted by: Janine Paradiso on 6/13/2022 at 6:18 am
Blogadore here! Please keep them coming and congrats team - you all are making great time!!! Michael know you are having the best time ever!!! Safe travels team and enjoy that Mac and cheese!!!
Kim and Jim
Posted by: Kim on 6/12/2022 at 11:07 am
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