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Mt. Rainier: Smith & Emmons Team Turn at 13,500ft

June 21, 2023

Posted by: Hannah Smith, Tatum Whatford, Evan Sather, Will Ambler

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 13,500'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons June 17 - 22 led by RMI Guide Hannah Smith made the difficult decision to turn around today at 13,500'. Hannah reported difficult snow conditions and a lack of established trail due to the new snow accumulations over the last few days. The climbers have returned to Camp Schurman where they will spend their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow the team will do some crevasse rescue training before descending to the trailhead and returning to Rainier BaseCamp later in the day.

Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Touchdown on Union Glacier

November 29, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 2,297'

Hey, this is Dave Hahn calling from Antarctica. We made our flight through the night. We left Punta Arenas around 11:40 p.m. and flew down through the dark, until reaching the daylight of Antarctica. We landed at about 4:15 this morning at Union Glacier. Beautiful landing and we are in Union Glacier Camp. We haven't gone out to Vinson, it's probably not gonna happen today. But we are keeping our fingers crossed for tomorrow. We've got our tents up and we are sleeping in to recover from the night of flying. But all is well, and we'll get you a regular dispatch when possible. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Dave Hahn calls in after landing on Union Glacier.

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Rest Day at Basecamp

January 8, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 13,800'

After a good trip up the Relinchos Valley yesterday, the team is enjoying a well-earned rest day here at Plaza Argentina. Our night of good rest rolled into a breakfast of eggs, fried ham, peppers and onions with coffee and hot chocolate, and was thoroughly enjoyed by everyone. After giving the team time to digest, we all went over to the medical office and got the obligatory physical check-up. Everyone passed with flying colors, and we're now poised and ready for our carry up to Camp One tomorrow, situated at 16,200'. While we're living at about 14,000 feet, everyone is feeling tip top and acclimating perfectly. We have beautiful weather and look forward to staging for the move higher on this beautiful mountain. Keep sending the positive energy! RMI Aconcagua Expedition and Guides JJ Justman, Garrett Stevens and Geoff Schellens

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Watching your trek to camp 1. Glad everything is going well. Miss You.

Posted by: Paula Hall on 1/9/2013 at 6:25 am

Greg sounds like you are all doing well and enjoying everything so far. We enjoy seeing the pix.

Posted by: mom and dad on 1/8/2013 at 10:20 pm

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Summit on Cayambe!

December 6, 2010

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 18,997 ft.

Woo hoo! Today was a great day for our crew. Despite some rough weather and a windy lenticular cloud we were able to put seven of our ten teammates on the summit of Cayambe! Snow conditions on the ascent were perfect despite the high winds and generally squirrelly weather. The ascent took around eight hours from the refugio to the summit with a brief stay on top and was followed by a three hour descent. After driving for a while we then enjoyed a celebratory lunch at a typical Ecuadorian restaurant. After nearly four hours on the road, our weary team arrived at Chilcabamba, the beautiful Ecuadorian farmhouse that will be our home for the next two nights. A great dinner of local trout and fresh vegetables put a terrific finish on a long but satisfying day. That's all for now! We will check in tomorrow from Chilcabamba. Much love to all our friends and family back home in the states! Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!

Mt. McKinley: Team Jones Waiting For Calmer Winds

June 11, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 11, 2013 You can't always get what you want... Those lyrics from Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones were the first thing that went through the collective consciousness this morning. The guides woke at 6am, packed sleeping bags in preparation for departure and unzipped the tent - only to see winds whipping the ridge of the West Buttress route above. While camp here at 14,200' remains relatively calm, the higher reaches of the mountain are getting pummeled by ferocious northeast winds, which are sending plumes of spindrift snow off into the stratosphere. With a forecast high temperature of -15F at the 17,000' camp today, and winds gusting well into the 30mph range, the only safe option is to wait here in camp and hope for a less windy day to make our move. That combination of wind and temperature will actually feel like -65F (approximately), which can freeze exposed flesh in one minute. Needless to say, we're not going to venture into that kind environment. So here we sit and wait, hoping for a break in the wind. We were treated to a bodacious air show earlier, when the contract helicopter, an A-Star B-3, came ripping around and right over our tents about three times in a row. Seems like they are doing some sort of filming up here, and we all mugged shamelessly as the ship blasted less than 40 feet above us. Good entertainment, to say the least. While we have had more than one facetious conversation about moving in the wind storm, the group is prepared to wait for the right time and the right weather window. To channel the Stones yet again (and continue the song): If you try sometimes, you might find you get what you need So here's hoping we get what we need! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the patiently waiting team

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Completely enjoy today and the amazing view from where you are….you are somewhere so very few have ever been! Way to feel and create the magic of your life’s goals :)! Onwards and Upwards to you all!!!

Posted by: Sue Lopez on 6/12/2013 at 12:58 pm

Nothing wrong with sitting tight and waiting for the right moment. Just stay safe and stay warm and have another bagel:) We’ll be praying for your weather to break… and you will get what you need. Looking forward to your next installment.
Cheers and prayers for you all!

Matt -1

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/11/2013 at 10:03 pm

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Mt. Rainier: August 25th Summit!

August 25, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 7 a.m. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Zeb Blais and their Four Day Summit Climb teams reported clear skies and calm winds for their climb today. They will spend some time on top before beginning their descent to Camp Muir and continuing down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats - looking forward to pictures…...Andy

Posted by: Andy G. on 8/26/2012 at 8:19 am

congratulations Megan and the team!!! we are proud of you for working so hard and accomplishing your goal! Not many people can do what you have done! Can’t wait to hear all about it!

Posted by: Jamey on 8/25/2012 at 2:14 pm

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Kilimanjaro: Hahn and Team discuss logistics and prep for climb

August 1, 2022

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Today was an easy day at the Rivertrees Hotel on the outskirts of Arusha.

The team met after breakfast to get into the details of our Kilimanjaro climb. We discussed staffing and itineraries and what gear gets used when. We talked about getting to the mountain and getting away from it and everything in between. We talked about packing and sorting gear and then we broke up the meeting in order to pack and sort.

Gear checks were performed back in the hotel rooms and then the gang had much of the afternoon to relax and work through jet lag.

We gathered for dinner outside on the patio and then drifted off to rest for our big first day of climbing.

Best Regards,

Dave Hahn

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Summits on a Perfect Day

August 10, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside

Elevation: 18,510'

Hi, this is Pete Van Deventer with the Elbrus-Northside crew calling in. We are back at Camp 1 after a really successful summit day. Couldn't have asked for anything more perfect. We woke up this morning to warm temps, clear skies, and not a breath of wind. We made our way up relatively quiet until we merged with the southside route at the Saddle, and then we could see the line of climbers coming from that route, but we made our own switchbacks and stayed out of the traffic and cruised up to the summit in pretty good style. One hundred percent of our folks stood on top today. A really good day all the way around. A special shout out to Josh, who ended up being pretty motivated and roped up with our local guide, Sasha, and they made another trip from there over to the east side in only about an hour, so they tagged both summits. We all descended to Lenz Rocks and stopped there for about an hour and packed up camp, and then made our way back down to Moraine Camp, Camp 1. We are tucked in here, inside our tents and we're out to enjoy a pizza dinner from Nina, the cook here. She makes amazing stuff. The plan is tomorrow to head down to Base Camp and we'll take our time getting down there and spend the evening. Then the cars will come for us the day after that to take us to Kislovodsk. Everybody will be back in touch with loved ones soon and everyone sends their best. It's been a really good day here on the northside of Elbrus. Everybody's super excited. Talk later. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls after a successful Elbrus summit via the Northside.

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Sonam! You put your heart to it and you did it! Proud of you!
Ephrem

Posted by: Ephrem on 8/11/2017 at 9:22 pm

Congrats Lisa! Can’t wait to hear all about your trip and see photos. Love, the Zaia crew

Posted by: Kelly on 8/11/2017 at 7:03 am

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Return to Talkeetna

May 30, 2012

Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Our whole crew is safe and sound back in Talkeetna! After a successful summit of Denali on Sunday, our crew descended to the 14,000’ camp on Monday. Then, after an early start Tuesday, we hiked out to Basecamp and arrived at the airstrip in the early evening and were lucky enough to have some clear weather to fly off of the glacier and back to civilization. We had a great team dinner last night at the West Rib Pub, and we are all enjoying the comforts of real beds and running water! After 18 great days on the mountain, our expedition is officially over. Everyone is parting ways today, heading back to loved ones back home. It was a great adventure on Denali; climbing with a great team, great weather, and a great mountain, it was hard to beat! RMI Guide Mike Walter

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats to the team and Mike for another well lead expedition. A little quicker than last year :)

Posted by: Jeff Rapp on 5/31/2012 at 2:40 pm

Nicely done folks! Welcome back Rich!

Posted by: Erik on 5/31/2012 at 9:06 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Summit!

June 22, 2021

Posted by: Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at around 8am this morning. RMI Guide Avery Parrinello repoted a beautiful day of climb, and the route through the Kautz Ice Chute was in great shape. The Team has started their descent and will spend another day training and practicing alpine expedition skills to prepare for future climbs like Denali or Aconcagua.

Congratulations to today's team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Woot!!! Amazing everyone!!! Just incredible! Good job Josh! And Sam, I’m proud of how far you got and your thoughtfulness on the decision to come back early. Well done too all!!!!

Posted by: Heather hobbs on 6/22/2021 at 5:39 pm

So happy and excited for you Josh & Sam!!!! Congratulations to you guys and your team!!

Posted by: Ana Zekants on 6/22/2021 at 3:06 pm

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Most Popular Entries

Mt. Rainier: Smith & Emmons Team Turn at 13,500ft

Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Touchdown on Union Glacier

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Rest Day at Basecamp

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Summit on Cayambe!

Mt. McKinley: Team Jones Waiting For Calmer Winds

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Mt. Rainier: August 25th Summit!

Kilimanjaro: Hahn and Team discuss logistics and prep for climb

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Summits on a Perfect Day

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Return to Talkeetna

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Summit!

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