Most Popular Entries

Hi Everyone, The team did a great job again on the short hike up to our high camp. It's been a long journey but everyone is in good spirits and we are all excited about tonight's climb.Our plan is to wake at midnight, have a quick breakfast and then be walking by 1am. If all goes according to plan then we hope to be on the summit just after sunrise.We will spend the next few hours resting, preparing our gear and hopefully getting a little sleep too. The climb will break down into one hour stretches with 10-15 min. breaks between each hour. Our pace will be slow but steady with lots of breathing as we ascend to "The Roof of Africa" 19'340ft above sea level. We'll do our best and will try to call from the summit. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Casey Grom and Crew

On The Map

The stretch of fine weather held just long enough for us to pack up high camp and drop on down the fixed ropes. By mid-day as we neared low camp, we could see cloud caps forming on the mountain tops. We repacked for sled-hauling and set out for basecamp. Travel conditions were smooth and easy and our biggest concern became preventing sunburn. We made it into base at 5:30 PM and joined several other teams hoping to fly to Union Glacier. The ski-equipped twin otters have apparently been quite busy these last few days, but their intention was to make several trips to Vinson tonight. The first flight made it in about 45 minutes ago and it is now 11:40 PM We would be on the third flight if they choose to go on through the night. So perhaps around 4 AM we'll get a shot... But in the meantime, our tents are up and it is time for a nap. Best regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Four Day Summit Climb May 27 - 30, 2011 made their summit bid this morning but were forced to turn around at 13,800' due to poor visibility. The team is descending to Camp Muir and will be making their way back to Paradise by early afternoon.

Sometime around 560 B.C., a guy named Siddhartha Gautama - otherwise known as the Buddha - established as one of the fundamental tenets of Buddhism that to exist is to suffer. Not a very inspiring precept at first glance. But, what the Buddha was really getting at is the idea that everything in life is in a constant state of flux and change, that even joy must one day come to an end; thus, everything is transient, security is simply not a reality. Our time here in Antarctica - especially these last few days - has proven the 2500 year old thoughts of the Buddha quite right. With a bright sun and bright hopes, we packed eagerly this morning at Vinson Basecamp. Only a few wispy clouds were visible, and we were all excited to be dropped by Twin Otter in a new place to make the first tracks on an unknown peak. As we zipped our duffels, the whining of the Otter's engines rattled through camp, and the pilot, Monica, soon touched down on the snowy runway. But, she brought bad news: another weather system was moving in, and the forecast called for the storms to close in - shutting down all flights in this vicinity - by tomorrow night. Time to change plans; it would be imprudent to be dropped on a remote glacier with a major weather system bearing down. So, we decided to fly by some predetermined spots and, if things looked good, get dropped, climb through the night, and zip out before the weather stranded us. Soon, we were aloft, saying goodbye to our friends at Vinson Basecamp, and zipping around Vinson, Shinn, Epperly, and the other giants of the Sentinel Range. Then, on we went toward Union Glacier...and more change. With every passing minute, clouds on the horizon built up. Thirty-five minutes into the trip, it was obvious that this storm system was a big one, bearing down fast. If we got dropped down, there was a good chance Monica would not be able to get back in tomorrow to pick us up. And, the latest news was this storm could be 5-6 days. A biggie. Sadly, our hand was forced, and we made the prudent decision: land back at Union Glacier camp, and hope to be able to zip out in some reasonable weather in the next couple of days to do some climbing, skiing, and filming. To exist is to suffer. Life is transient. I've always thought, had he lived a bit longer, the Buddha would have agreed with the comedian Dennis Leary, who once said: "Life is tough...get a helmet." -Jake Norton

Summit Sulphide Glacier!

RMI Guide Seth Burns checked in today from the Summit of Mt. Shuksan. The team had a great day of climbing with light winds. Seth was also able to share these photos of the Team's training day and approch to camp.

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Andres Marin and Shaun Sears reached the summit of Mt Rainier on this clear, sunny morning. They reported windy conditions with views all the way to Mt. Hood in Oregon. The teams spent about an hour on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir. After a short rest at Camp Muir, the teams will continue down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing everyone at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations!

Hello everyone at the RMI blog site for Team One here on Aconcagua. Wanted to give you a little bit of an update as far as what we are up to. First of all the team is doing absolutely great. We actually moved our camp to Camp Two at 18,000' and we are nestled in, tents are up. We've already had a round of hot drinks and now we are just resting and relaxing. We always want to be optimistic, but to let you know a little bit of the weather forecast that we have. It is not looking that great. The winds are picking up, there is a big lenticular right now over the summit, and they are calling for incredibly strong winds for the next 4 to 5 days. However, you never know if those forecasts are wrong so we are hunkered down here, our tents are nice and solid. So, the winds are not as strong down here as they are up high. So everyone is doing great, but this is part of big mountain expedition climbing. Little bit of a waiting game and that's what we need to do is just kind of see what Mother Nature gives us, so we've got high hopes. And we'll basically give a call tomorrow and get a little more updates on the weather and see what's happening. But for right now. Everyone's doing great, and we'll check back in tomorrow and let you know what we're up to. Most likely maybe a walk up towards high camp. And a little more resting and recovery. So take care everyone. Will talk again soon. Ciao from Argentina. RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

All Team Members Safely Back at Camp 4 After Successful Summit Voicemail 12:48 a.m. PDT - Hi RMI, it's Linden calling. It is 12:42 a.m. your time - here in Basecamp. We just got the radio call that our entire team is back in Camp 4. They are settling in for the evening and are going to descend to Camp 2 tomorrow. Everyone made it back safe and sound. It sounds like they are happy to be back and in fine spirits. We will give you another update tomorrow when they get closer to Basecamp. Group on Top at 8:00 a.m. - Nepal Time All Five First Ascent Team Members and their Sherpa team were on the summit May 19, 2009 at the following times (Nepal Time): Peter Whittaker - 8:00 a.m. Jake Norton - 8:00 a.m. John Griber - 8:00 a.m. Ed Viesturs - 8:50 a.m. Gerry Moffatt - 9:15 a.m. They are descending to Camp IV now. More video, audio, and pictures to be posted in the morning. Congratulations!

Hello again everyone, 

Right out of camp the team was faced with the only significant technical obstacle for this climb. This hurdle is the great Barranco Wall, which rises about 1,000ft and looks as intimidating as it sounds. Thankfully there is a nice narrow trail that weaves its way up and through the wall and all the way to the top. Most of it feels more like steep hiking, but there are a few places that require the use of our hands to help us ascend. Everyone enjoyed the challenge and were breathing hard climbing here at 13,000ft. 

The team did a good job of moving steady and allowing a few porters through with their loads precariously balanced on their heads. Which was astonishing to see!

After reaching the top we took a nice break and enjoyed the amazing views of the ice ladened south face and valleys below. The team continued our hike for a few more hours up and down through a few valleys before reaching today’s endpoint. 

All in all, it took a little over hours for us to reach our next camp called Karanga, named for the big and beautiful valley which it overlooks. 

We’ve just wrapped up an amazing lunch and are relaxing in our tents before dinner. 

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili crew!

Oh boy what a day. 

Another day on the trail and today, is one of the longest distances. 

What started as a light drizzle transformed into moody cloudy overlooking the vast scenery that Torres Del Paine offers. Baby blue glacial lakes, jagged ridges, and jurassic valleys were the theme of the day as we walked the Patagonian flat trail. To top it off? The Paso de Vientas showed us what it was made of. Just enough wind to make it fun, not quite enough to lift us off our feet like a kite. 

Lago Dickson was the destination of the day, and it's like a mirage here. A small peninsula surrounded by the lake that feeds the Paine River. We walked the beach, played farkle (of course) and tried out a new (Alex and Jackie created) card game. 

The team goes to Camp Pedro's tomorrow, our most rustic of the trip. We'll get ready for the big climb and descent over John Gardner pass. Wish us good weather and safe travels! So far, the weather has been just our luck, Patagonian perfect. 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli & Team