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Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Carry Gear to 14,000ft, Return to 11,000ft Camp

Monday, May 22, 2023 - 10:50 pm PT

We set an early alarm, and peaked our heads out the tent to see what the weather was doing. Surprised to find clear skies above us, we blasted the stoves and got every up for a quick breakfast of oatmeal. After eating a quick breakfast, we loaded up our packs with the group gear, and personal food we wanted to cache and began the first stretch of the climb requiring crampons. Up until now, we have been on a long rope interval, and primarily in snowshoes. From here on out we will be climbing in crampons, and using an ice axe. Just as sun hit camp, we began our way up the steep Motorcycle Hill, around the corner up Motorcycle Hill, through the broken up Polo Field and around Windy Corner. The morning was cold, the wind was howling for the first few stretches but by the time we got to the corner, the wind had died down and we were warming up. We passed the common cache site at 13,500' and made our way up to 14,000 Camp, where we were greeted by other RMI teams. We buried our cache, and then headed back downhill to 11,000' Camp for the night. We made a big dinner of Annie's Mac and Cheese and bacon, and then promptly crawled into our sleeping bags after a long day. The team did great today, setting us up well. We are looking forward to another slow morning, and rest before fully moving to 14 Camp.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

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Sounds amazing!. Hope you are having fun, Kevin!

Posted by: Jim Boerger on 5/27/2023 at 3:50 pm

Way to go!! Rest up!!! Cheering from Houston. Go Dawny! Go Robin!! And go team!!

Posted by: tiff on 5/24/2023 at 11:27 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make New Home at 14,000ft

Saturday, May 21, 2023 - 11:27 pm PT

Big moves today. We bounced back and forth on whether to move this morning, as it snowed all night and was still when we woke up. After a bit of waffling we decided it was time. Though it was pretty cloudy and white at 11,000', it was dead calm, and it looked much the same above. We stayed in that cloud until Windy Corner and it was HOT. It acted much like a microwave and we were sweating, both from heat and loads. The theme was pretty similar to yesterday - our travel was smooth, it was hard work, but the team was strong and we clipped right along. Six hours after leaving 11,000', we walked into our new home at 14,000'. 

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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VERY excited to hear the summit word!!!!  Hoping for good weather behavior and smooth climbing.
Lots of folks here in “the middle” are watching and pulling for you all.

Posted by: Betsy Wearing on 5/22/2023 at 12:53 pm

。:.゚ヽ(*´∀`)ノ゚.:。

That’s a YAY face!
Great job! Proud of my guy!

Posted by: Lyds on 5/21/2023 at 5:32 pm


Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Return to High Camp After Summit Climb

Saturday, January 27, 2019 - 11:04 PM PT 100% on top!!!! The Roof of Africa! All is well. Sadly, the sat phone was too cold and died as soon as I turned it on. Bummer. We are all safely back at High Camp after a cold climb of Kilimanjaro. Short break here before we head down to our last camp. Can’t wait to share pictures. RMI Guide Casey Grom

On The Map

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CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL.  Can’t wait to see pictures and give you hugs. Enjoy the rest of of the adventure.

Posted by: Barbara Sluboski on 1/27/2019 at 7:23 pm

Way to go, Joe! Congrats to all of you on the expedition. Safe travels coming back!

Posted by: Aaron Williams on 1/27/2019 at 6:26 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team and 14K Camp Life

May 29, 2014 - 7:22 pm PT Today has been more of the same from the last few days: snow, some light winds, and evidence of strong winds up high. As the weather continues to stall groups here at 14K camp, more and more groups have arrived to join the community. When we arrived, 14K Camp resembled a tiny village of tents and snow walls, but sprawl has taken over and camp looks more like a city everyday. As the population grows, so does the sense of community, since everyone is dealing with the same problems. When they announce the weather over the radio at 8 pm, small clusters of climbers come together across camp to listen and discuss afterwards. As you walk through camp, the weather is on everyone's tongue; what is it going to do tomorrow, when will the window come, and what is causing this pattern is discussed a hundred times a day. A small barter market of food, toilet paper, and entertainment has sprung up. It feels like a small emptiness opens every time a team runs out of days and has to head back downhill, but their space (both physical and psychological) is quickly filled by the arrival of a new group. All of this helps to keep us patient and sane as we wait. Tomorrow will likely be a continuation of this trend, but the awaited window does seem to be showing itself in the forecasts, so the end may be in sight! Best, RMI Guides Pete, Robby, and Josh

On The Map

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Nobody wants to contemplate having to go home but some of you will have commitments. If the weather changes for the better in a day or two, does the group still have time to summit?
Some comment on that would help us back home.
We keep our fingers crossed for all of you!

Posted by: Frank Haasbeek on 5/30/2014 at 4:46 am


Vinson Massif Expedition:  Team Moves to Low Camp

We busted out of Base Camp today. Just over five hours of walking up the Branscomb Glacier put us at "low" camp, which isn't all that low at 9300 ft above sea level. Half way along the route we picked up our cached supplies and equipment from yesterday's carry. We were alone for our day of climbing, since the other teams in our rotation have about four days head-start on us. One of those, a German team, made the top today in a speedy ascent. They were early enough in the day that they came all the way back down to low camp. So we have neighbors. The other two teams are still at high camp hoping to get a shot at the summit tomorrow. We had great conditions for coming along directly under Vinson's giant western face, and we had perfect and unobstructed views of Mounts Gardner, Epperly and Shinn. Camp was built quickly and easily and after a filling dinner, the team retired to bask in the strong, late night sun. We'll get that sun until at least three AM, but then, while it is behind the mountain, our teeth will be chattering until 11 AM. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Larry

No one, I mean no one, can keep you down!  See a mountain (that is 16,000 feet or higher) and Larry will be climbing it!!  You are the poster-child for the next edition of “Younger Next Year”!!!

Please encourage those guides of yours to send some up close pics.  We all want to see determined and smiling faces!

So neat to hear how well things are progressing!!

Stay safe and united!!!

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 12/13/2013 at 3:39 pm

It’s chilly in southern California but nothing compared to where you all are.  Keep warm. What an adventure you are having.  Larry, can’t wait to hear all about this trip.  Love, Mom

Posted by: Gerri Seaton on 12/13/2013 at 11:16 am


Mt. Kilimanjaro: Climb Ends Safari is About to Begin

After a short hike today we finally arrived at the exit gate of Kilimanjaro National Park and meet up with more of the Dik Dik staff who had prepared a wonderful lunch for us. It took about two hours to reach the Lodge where we greeted by all of the lodge staff outside awaiting our arrival singing and dancing. It was a very warm welcome and left everyone with big smiles. As you can guess there were hot showers for all and a few naps too. We finished the evening with a celebration dinner and handed out summit certificates to everyone. Now it's time to enjoy the success and do a little animal watching! Safari starts tomorrow! RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

On The Map

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That certificate will be framed and hung in a place of honor! 
So proud!  Have fun on your safari!  Love you!

Posted by: Tracy O. on 9/12/2013 at 7:52 am

A JOB WELL DONE

Posted by: randy on 9/12/2013 at 5:29 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

Today we slept until the sun crested the West Rib of Denali, quickly warming the zero degree nip of the night. Another great bacon, bagel and coffee breakfast with stories around the posh house quickly lead to the post noon hour. The team had a few hours to rest and hydrate. The afternoon brought training for the fixed lines and running belays we'll encounter on our final carry tomorrow. The crew is very excited to be in the final preparations leading to our summit bid, hopefully a few days from now. The weather continues to be absolutely wonderful. Keep the positive vibrations coming our way and we'll be in touch soon. RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, & Erik Endert
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Hello ALL mountaineers… Folks send their admiration.. Tim and Justin.  Thinking of lots of questions to ask ...such as ...see any wildlife along the way?, see the aurora borealis lights?  are you sunburn?  This must be a life altering experience as you move upward toward the Arctic. 

I am enjoying all of the updates.  Many thanks!!

Sharon

Posted by: Sharon Halls on 6/14/2011 at 8:26 pm

Hey Steve, Ashleigh, Mom and I took a walk at 10pm Tuesday night just to get out and see the full moon.  Just like the movie “An American Tale” we were looking at the moon possibly when you and your group were.  How cool.  Keep your nose to the grindstone and you’ll succeed.  Bye for now.  Dad

Posted by: Nick Doinidis on 6/14/2011 at 8:04 pm


Elbrus Northside Climbers Wait at Camp 1

Prvyet from Camp 1 - The team is doing great. It was our third night here at Camp 1 and our bodies are adjusting well to the altitude. The winds that started blowing last evening remained constant throughout the night, with gusts up to 25 mph. Our hope was that the winds would die down by morning, but there was no noticeable change when the alarm went off at 7:00. We decided to postpone our wake up call for an hour to see if it might improve, but no such luck. Just as the winds would let up 15 minutes later they would return to full force. Since establishing Camp 2 in these conditions would be very difficult we chose to take a weather day instead. Although it can be difficult to wait out a rest day knowing our summit push is approaching, the down time will certainly benefit us as we move higher. The plan is now to move up to Camp 2 tomorrow and then make our attempt for Elbrus' summit on Monday, weather permitting. The forecast is calling for improving conditions, and all we need is a 24 hour window of good weather. We had an early dinner and as we crawled into the tents the cloud cap on the upper mountain began to break apart. Within minutes the twin summits were in full view and the West Summit was showing all the colors of a beautiful sunset. A very good sign.
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Mt. Rainier: Wittmier & Seminar Team Reach Summit

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir team put their training to the test and made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Dustin reported calm, light winds and sunny skies as the team was walking out of the crater rim just after 8 am to begin their descent.  The team will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain.  They reached Camp Muir on Monday and have spent the last several days working on alpine mountaineering skills.  The team enjoyed time at Ingraham Flats working on their ice climbing and crevasse rescue skills.  Tomorrow the group will pack up and descend to Paradise, completing their week of training on Mt. Rainier.

Congratulations to the Seminar team!

Wednesday, May 18, 2023 5:38 pm PDT

Hello world! 

It's time for an update from the team up at Camp Muir. The cycle of sun in the morning and clouds / thunderstorms in afternoons haven't impacted our seminar in the slightest. We've been spending the days training and afternoons learning. Today is our last day of training before our summit attempt. We spent the morning ice climbing in a crevasse up at Ingraham flats, the guides even got in on the ice climbing fun! Our afternoon will be spent fine tuning our crevasse rescue skills and then heading to bed early to try to get some shut eye before our alpine start. Check back in tomorrow to hear about our summit attempt!

Cheers,

Dusty, Jack, Sam and The Team

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Mongolia: Frank & Team Enjoy Well Deserved Rest Day

Today was a rest day for the Mongolia Expedition. After five days off constant movement a little down time was well deserved. We filled the hours by drying and organizing our gear, hiking to a nearby meadow filled with wild flowers and napping in the afternoon heat. Things were low key and each team member enjoyed personal time. A beautiful sunset capped off the evening and tomorrow we will begin our trek back to Ulaanbataar with fond memories of our time in this area. RMI Guide Eric Frank
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