We went to bed last night hoping for lighter winds than the previous night, and thankfully the weather gods delivered the goods. The team enjoyed uninterrupted slumber, and woke today to more blue skies.
The weather has definitely gotten a little colder than it was down below, so our morning was a slow roll through hot coffee and cereal. As the sun climbed higher, the temps warmed and the crew enjoyed the relaxing atmosphere of cards and conversation in our tents.
We continued resting throughout the day, conserving energy for tomorrow's move to Camp 3. If all goes well and the weather continues to hold, we'll be checking in from the highest reaches of this beautiful mountain over the next couple of days. Keep it dialed in for more updates!
RMI Guide Garrett Stevens & Team
Ominous yet beautiful spoons of spin drift continue to tear across the upper mountain. For now we wait safely at 14 camp passing the time reviewing knots, going on training hikes and practicing skills needed on this expedition.
Our camp at 14,000' is an ideal place for us to wait out the weather so that is what we'll continue to do.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Hi Everyone
Hope the weather is clearing on the mountain top and you all will be able to move up there soon. Are you cold yet?? We love you Anne Gilbert and are very proud!Dad loved his call from up there. Mom and Dad
Posted by: chris chase on 6/24/2011 at 7:15 am
Glad you are hanging in there. We miss you and can’t wait to hear about your grand adventure.
Posted by: carolyn crandell on 6/24/2011 at 6:34 am
Today was eventful. We have now all been up for 24 hours and are feeling the effects. Our day actually started last night with a 10pm wakeup to attempt Antisana. By 11pm the team was on the move, although lightning in the relatively short distance and clouds in the vicinity were worth keeping an eye on. As we climbed higher, intermittent clouds were upon us, with even a light drizzle from time to time. Looking in all directions, clouds surrounded the mountain and gave an eerie sense. Compounding these difficulties was also the very dry condition of the glacier. Navigating the dry glacier at night required the utmost attention to efficient footwork. In the end, there were too many factors working against us and we made the decision to turn around just above 17000'.
Every member of the team began the climb and made a valiant effort. While it is disappointing to turn around, the more we climb the more we understand that it is all part of the experience. By now, we have a team that truly enjoys spending time together and works together as a unit in the mountains. That means as much to me as standing on any summit could. To celebrate our new friendships and an overall successful time in Ecuador, we went to a nice group dinner. Jaime, our lead Ecuadorian guide, joined and we all enjoyed recounting freshly minted memories from this journey. As we depart, it is bitter sweet. It may be some time before any of us cross paths again, but we are all excited to reunite with family back home in the coming days (except me - follow the Ecuador Seminar blog!).
After a high effort day of carrying to Camp One, the team enjoyed our last rest day at Basecamp. cups of coffee were enjoyed as the sun warmed up camp. Today was a leisure day. Time was spent watching TV shows, reading books, chatting with teammates, and showers. We also sorted gear for the move to Camp One. We don't want to be too heavy when we head back downhill, so luxury items like sweatpants, jeans, sweatshirts, need to stay behind.
A highlight of the day was welcoming the other RMI team back to Basecamp. We got useful information about the route and conditions and now feel ready to have our go at the upper mountain. Tomorrow, we say bye to the wonderful basecamp staff that have been taking good care of us and move to Camp One.
We are ready and excited to progress up this mountain.
We love seeing your photos and updates. As you approach 22,000+ ft, all of us in Ann Arbor (861 ft at our house) are cheering for you and wishing the team our best. Have fun!
Posted by: Janice Lieberman on 1/16/2023 at 11:26 am
Hello everyone on the RMI Blog. I hope you're paying attention. We have a great news to report. Team Mexico is on the Orizaba summit right now. We had just a beautiful day climbing. It took us just under eight hours to get up here. Sun is all out. Clouds below. We've got a beautiful view. We actually can see Popo, La Malinche, as well as Ixta. We of course climbed La Malinche and Ixta, so we have just beautiful views of those mountains we were on just a couple of days ago. And now we capped it off, and it couldn't have been better, on a beautiful day on Orizaba, the third highest peak in North America. Everyone says hello to friends and family. They are all excited, all happy, gaining some strength for the way down. It was a tough climb but they all did really well. This is Elias and JJ here with Team Mexico. We'll check in with you when we get down to Senor Reyes' tomorrow.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
RMI Guide JJ Justman calls from the Orizaba summit.
June 26, 2014 - 9:40 pm PT
We set out Tuesday morning to move up to 17k when circumstances both unfortunate and out of our control forced us back down to 14k camp. We made the wise mountaineering decision to forgo the summit for another time and begin the arduous trek back to Denali's Basecamp. We made it back to Basecamp around ten yesterday morning and were disheartened to hear that although clear here, the planes were not flying because of weather between here and Talkeetna. We set up camp and made the best of being stuck in the Alaska range.
Although we thought our adventure was winding down, we woke up last night to over a foot and a half of snow threatening our tent. We shoveled around camp for over two hours helping other teams that had tents collapse. When the snow finally slowed down this morning, we had collected well over three feet! Although it was fun to see that much snow, it also meant we needed to put on our snowshoes to stomp down an entire runway filled with nearly waste deep, wet snow. The weather never really cleared today, but we are hoping that we will not receive as much snow tonight and the weather will be clear for flight activity to resume tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team "The Ocho"
Mike and Josh,
Thank both for leading Bruce on such a great trip!
Posted by: Mom and Dad on 6/29/2014 at 6:35 pm
I’m so sorry, you guys—but I know you made the correct decision based on what you were facing—I was watching the local weather for Denali via the NOAA feeds and I’m very glad to hear that you’re down & safe! That’s all that matters in the end!
Posted by: Susan Matthews on 6/27/2014 at 10:26 pm
Jake Beren, Gabriel Barral, and our Four Day Summit Climb Teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. They reported a beautiful day with great views and not a breath of wind.
Congratulations to today's Teams.
Taking advantage of a short weather window, a little over 80 people went for the summit today. News is still coming down from high on the mountain and things are sounding uneventful, which is a good thing!
For us RMI climbers, we had several meetings today with Guides, climbers and Sherpas and decided that our time has come as well. We are planning to let a short window of weather pass and will start our final push up the mountain within the next several days weather permitting.
The team is rested and excited at having known dates for our summit push and everyone is making their final preparations. Meanwhile, we will continue to listen, watch the weather and fine tune our dates as they get closer. Stay tuned for our upcoming summit launch!
RMI Guides Billy Nugent and Lindsay Fixmer, along with the Four Day Summit Climb, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Billy reported calm and beautiful conditions on the summit. The teams are descending to Camp Muir where they will spend some time before continuing on to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them back in Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations!
La Malinche summit!
Today was a busy day. After a fantastic breakfast at our hotel in Mexico City we met our driver and loaded the van to the brim with all our gear. By 9:00 we were bumping along the streets working our way out of the city and towards the hills. After a few hours we found ourselves winding through the forests on the flanks of La Malinche. We arrived at La Malintzi, an old Olympic training facility at 10,000 feet around noon and stowed our bags in our cabins. With day packs packed and the noonday sun warming us, we started our acclimatization hike. After two hours hiking through the forest, we broke out of the trees and began climbing up the scree trail to gain the ridge. At 4:30 we found ourselves on the summit of La Malinche, 14,640'. Higher than any point in the continental United States. With perfect weather we began our descent scree skiing through the sandy section and back into the forest. Happy and tired we all enjoyed our delicious dinner back at La Malintzi and headed to bed for some well-deserved rest.
Thanks for following us.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Hi Everyone
Hope the weather is clearing on the mountain top and you all will be able to move up there soon. Are you cold yet?? We love you Anne Gilbert and are very proud!Dad loved his call from up there. Mom and Dad
Posted by: chris chase on 6/24/2011 at 7:15 am
Glad you are hanging in there. We miss you and can’t wait to hear about your grand adventure.
Posted by: carolyn crandell on 6/24/2011 at 6:34 am
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